This is a long shot if any of you know how to fix this but.....
So recently I've been get this strange issue where it will drives fine but when I go past like 40~50 % throttle, the boost will go up suddenly and then go into limp mode because overboost limp mode.
Put everything back to stock and it still doing it.
I while ago I was getting a "boost too low reading , cleared it and haven't checked it since.
I went digging around with my multimeter and the connection to the MAP sensor is only getting about 3 volts. shop manual says it's suppose to be 5 volts.
Any solutions?
FYI, I already have replacements on order for both MAP sensors.
well, decided to run a wire from the MAP 2 sensor on the intercooler pipe to MAP 1 and now it says intake temp too high.
Looked at the pinout of the ECU harness and probed to see if there was any excessive resistance on any of the wires.
All come back fine.... but the pinout on the shop manual is wrong, according to what my probing results.
The pins used on the ECU are correct, but which wires those pins go to are incorrect.
So either the shop manual is wrong, or my car is wired all weird from the factory @_@
I'm not going to rewire anything as it was working fine before this for the last 5 years.
Either my MAP sensor is taking a dump or my ECU. I'm planning on getting a SFR replacement anyways.
have you been able to log actual boost? check sensor grounds for the ecu as they can cause these kinds of issues. IMO if the +5v power wire for the map sensor is only reading +3v the problem is either wiring or ECU. if you checked the resistance of the wiring harness and it passed then its safe to say the problem either lies in the ECU itself or a loose sensor ground for the ECU.
Update, I got my MAP 1 sensor. Plugged it in, and started idling at about 1500 rpm like it does on cold starts in winter.
Then it ran rough. Got misfire codes on 1, 3, and 4.
Disconnected the ECU and let it sit for an hour.
Plugged it back in, and ran fine except for it idles at about 1200 rpm, but i'm fine with it for now.
Got a MAP sensor malfunction code, but the car runs better than it did, before I started getting MAP sensor issues, so I think the ecu just needs to recalibrate for the new sensor, which will take some time of daily driving.
I did get a lean code once, but hasn't come back.
pretty sure a new ecu, or some time will fix these issues. Still waiting for my MAP 2 sensor and my ecu to come in.
I know the WDs for the 2010 differ if it is an immobilizer car or not. I had no trouble with replacing the IAT sensor and the wiring. Spot on from my WD.
Hi. Sorry for reviving an old thread but I'm also having similar problems where it will go into boost around 50% throttle at 14.7 afr. If I let go and go wot it will be at 11.7 afr. Using torque I'm it's only seeing 12psi whereas on my boost gauge I'm seeing 14.5ish. At idle, torque app shows incosisntent vac jumping between 17inhg and 14inhg when my boost gauge is sitting g still at 17-18inhg. This is with the ac off. Im also getting the low boost code along with the bpv cel.
Currently I'm running br350 kit with external wastegate and synapse bov hooked to the intake manifold directly.
I'm think I'll change the map sensors like AKGC did but if anyone else has any suggestions, its greatly appreciated.
On load, the line to the bpr valve is seeing boost (well close to boost) pressures, aiding it in keeping it closed. When you let off and on quickly, it cause vacuum to enter the line going off throttle, then the solenoid closes letting the line see less boost pressure is keeping it closed.
It all has to do with how both solenoids are plumbed together.
As for that reading. the MAP sensor sits closer to the intake runners, which sees more vacuum than where your boost gauge gets it's signal. The torque app is a "general" diagnostic tool, meaning that it's not going to be accurate.
Get the engine back to stock, then you will better know if the MAP sensor needs to be replaced.
Thank you AKGC. My torque app gauge is seeing much "lower"/higher pressure under vacuum than my gauge and lower pressure at boost than my boost gauge. It was reading very close to the boost gauge before (maybe half year ago?).
Last month, I was having problem passing emissions even when I plumbed the bov back to as stock as possible. I say as much as possible because the wastegate solenoid has the port that normally goes to the actuator open to atmo as I have a external wastegate. I ended up figuring out how to pass emissions before Cel pops for the bpv code.
I recently turned on/paid attension to the boost part of torque when I got the low boost cel. I think I'll return the ecu back to stock one and see if it's the ecu. Like you thought in the OP. I have to take off the turbo/manifold off if I want to go all the way back to stock. Trying to see if I can figure it out before going that far back.
Thank you for your time!
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