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DIY:Unorthodox Racing Pulleys 3.8

22K views 65 replies 33 participants last post by  adurm 
#1 · (Edited)
I got the lightweight pulley set from Mark at Throwdown Performance. This is an install on a 2011 3.8 GT auto.

Total time spent: 1.5 hours.
You need:
2 people
Philips screwdriver
Long handle socket wrench
Short handle socket wrench
10mm, 17mm, 19mm, 22mm sockets
1/2 or 3/4 inch Impact wrench with at least 170 psi in the tank
5mm allen wrench
Something to plug or clamp the resevoir hose
pen and paper

I suggest working on this when the car is cold. Otherwise, hot parts will be the radiator, upper radiator hose, and crank pulley.

Step 1: Take the air duct off by removing the 4 plastic screws.


Step 2: Unplug the radiator resevoir hose from the radiator cap and plug or clamp the hose so it doesn't leak. We used an uncut silicone cap.


Step 3: Remove the coolant resevoir by taking out the two 10mm bolts from the upper back side of it.


Step 4: Unhook the resevoir hose from the top of the fan shroud. Pull the resevoir up and out. There is a pin that it seats in on the back of the fan shroud for when it goes back in.

Step 5. Get the fan shroud out by removing the two 10mm bolts near the top of the fan shroud. Disconnect the electrical plug on the shroud, too. The whole thing should lift up first, then you have to manipulate it out carefully. Do not hit the back side of the radiator as you will damage it. You have to push the upper radiator hose aside to get the shroud out. You shouldn't have to take the upper hose off.



Step 6: Loosen the water pump pulley bolts. Four 10mm.


Step 7: Loosen the alternator pulley by using the 22mm impact wrench.


Step 8: Loosen, I repeat, only break loose the crank pulley using a 22mm impact wrench. If you take it out completely with the impact gun, the gun will smash the hell out of the radiator. The crank bolt is about 2.5 inches long.


Step 9: Take the pen and paper. Draw the layout of all of the pulleys and where the belt runs. This will make re-assembly much easier.

Step 10: Find the belt tensioner pulley near the alternator. There are 2 hex heads on it. Use the 17mm to break it loose. Then "loosen" the 19mm to take the pressure off the belt. Slide the belt off and release the tensioner. This is where you need the long handle socket for leverage.


Step 10: Take off the alternator pulley (22mm).


Step 11: Put new shiny pulley on. Start the bolt by hand, then impact gun it on.


Step 12: Remove the 4 bolts on the water pump pulley and take off the pulley. There will be a bump on the shaft that has to line up.


Step 13: Put the new one on. Line up the bump. Use the supplied 5mm allen screws and lock washers. Snug it up best you can. It will spin on you, so final tightening is after the belt is back on.


Step 14: Unscrew the crank pulley bolt. Again, do not use the gun. The bolt is about 2.5 inches long and it might be warm if the car is warm. The pulley should come right off. It might be warm too. There will be some oil on the pulley. Note the key slot on the crank shaft, as the new pulley will have to line up with that. We added some clean oil to the new pulley similar to how the stock one had it.


Step 15: Put on the new crank pulley. Make sure the key slot lines up. We added some blue (medium strength) lock tight to the threads. It will not prevent taking it off with a gun, but it should prevent it from working itself loose from vibration. We used the impact wrench to tighted it down. The instructions said 215 ft-lbs with a torque wrench. There is a notch on the crank pulley. I think this is for a timing light, but we dont have a distributor to even need this.


Step 16: Using your handy belt diagram, put the belt on. We started with the crank and worked around to the alternator. You have to use the 19mm socket on the belt tensioner to get the belt back on. Make sure the belt is seated properly and it looks straight. Once it looks right, tighten the 17mm on the tensioner pulley.


Step 17: Tighten again on the water pump pulley bolts. Dont over tighten. You might break something.

Step 18: You could start it up and make sure in runs right. No noises or vibrations.

Step 19: Put fan shroud back in. There are slots in the bottom of the radiator that the fan will sink into. Again, you have to be careful not to damage the fins. Also push the upper hose aside while you bring the shroud in. Screw in the two 10mm bolts near the top of the shroud. Re-connect the electrics.

Step 20: Drop the resevoir tank in lining up the pin on the bottle to the hole on the shroud. Screw the two 10mm screws in near the top of the bottle. Re-connect the resevoir hose to the radiator cap area and clip it back onto the shroud.

You should be done. Takes about an hour or so with a helper. Mine happened to be my father, a 40 year XP ASE master technician. So your time may vary.

Breakdown of weights:
Stock water pump 24.3oz/690g------UR 10.1oz/285g----58% lighter
Stock crank 68.8oz/1950g-----------UR 11.1oz/310g----84% lighter
Stock alt 8.6oz/245g----------------UR 2.3oz/65g------73% lighter
Stock belt 8.2oz/230g--------Gates belt 7.8oz/215g-----6% lighter
Stock bolts vs UR bolts equal at 0.7oz/20g
Total stock: 110.6oz/3135g---------Total UR 32oz/895g-----71% lighter
Weights obtained using a small postal scale that can measure 1/10oz. The grams seem to round to 5 or 10.

This does not add HP. This should help the engine rev quicker to reach the power band faster. I swear I feel a difference in one day. Cant wait to see what happens after the suggested 1 week of driving to let the ECU learn.

Cheers!
 
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#64 ·
No need for a pulley pulling tool. You can use a breaker bar and right size socket to pop the bolt loose(leverage is your friend), remove the bolt and stock pulley, align the new pulley on, and torque it down.
 
#65 ·
I know this is an old thread, but this is the only ?DIY I saw. Has anyone had issues with the motor turning over when trying to loosen the crank bolt? My impact isn’t making a dent and when I try a breaker bar everything moves. Called UR they said to pull the starter and hold the engine while turning, is there another way without adding hours to this install?
thanks
 
#66 · (Edited)
If you are using pneumatic, I would turn up the air pressure. I have no experience with an electric impact wrench. I have two tools. One is a gun shaped thing while the other is more like an air socket wrench for tighter spaces. The gun is scary loud while the other is whiney. Make sure you got the gun. I forgot what pressure we had ours turned up to but the engine didn't budge. If and when it breaks loose be sure to stop fast or else your gun will smash the radiator fins.

I could only assume there is a fuse to the starter so pulling that would essentially make it crank but not start up? Or pull a fuel injection relay. If you are going to go that route, have someone watch which way the crank turns when its cranking before you put a wrench on. Then you can tell which side to wedge your breaker bar against.

Hopefully this link works
Shop Kobalt 1/2-in 350 ft-lbs Air Impact Wrench at Lowes.com

One more thing, if I remember correctly, we had the impact gun on the bolt trying to loosen it for a couple of seconds before it finally broke loose. I don't know if you left it on there long enough or not. Im not implying that you don't know what you are doing with an impact gun. I have limited experience with them and I wouldn't have known to leave it on there un-torqueing away unless I had an expert next to me. I have soft hands and clean fingernails. I rarely get dirty with the coupe anymore.
 
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