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SPEC 3+ w/ flywheel, P0336 and limp mode???

20K views 146 replies 28 participants last post by  cris90 
#1 ·
So, I've had my SPEC Stage 3+ and their flywheel for around 900 miles now. Its broken in, feels great not much stiffer pedal than stock but much grabbier. Still can slip easily once you get used to it.

First 500 miles I babied it. After that I was merging onto a highway, WOT in 3rd and I go to shift and the RPMs drop to 0 and I lose power. Try to start it while rolling, does't start the first time, then starts up normally and car drives normal. About a week later, WOT in 2nd gear did it again, same thing, no start 1st time, then cranks up normal.

So, I bought a code scanner, just had my o2 sensor codes. Cleared everything and went off to try and get it to happen. WOT in 1st gear, go to shift, RPMS fall to 0. Now, I was not on a highway this time so I had some time to play. I gave it gas, and the engine revs, but the tach stays at 0. I put it into gear, and I can drive away. Spedo works, RPM stays 0. Car cuts throttle right as I'm about to go into bost though.

So, I pull over turn it off, crank and no start like last time. 2nd time cranks up normal but I have my code scanner and it throws a pending P0336: Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Rang/Performance. This didn;t start till I got my new flywheel and clutch, and I spoke with Luke from Beyond Redline and he thinks it may be the flywheel. Also, googling that code is a bunch of posts about either faulty sensor or flywheel too =(

So, anyone else have this issue. Lookin at you guys with lightweight flywheels. The clutch/flywheel and labor really cleaned me out too so I'm kind SOL if its the flywheel. I did just undo the battery and I'm gonna let the car relearn with out me driving like a ***** for 500 miles while breaking in the clutch though.
 
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#2 ·
I've got about 1000 miles on mine, lots of fish tailing and WOT the last week or so, and no codes. Did you make sure the harness for the sensor is clipped in all the way, the wires look good, etc? Only complaint I have is reverse being a b*tch sometimes when I don't get it just right, car bucks back and forth a bit.
 
#3 ·
If it was a crank sensor failure, or wiring problem, the car would be hard to start, and run terrible all the time.
Sounds like the reluctor wheel that pulses the crank sensor is too far, too close, or not correctly timed.

Altough, I would not rule out the sensor fault, and/or possible shorted wire.

Get under there and start checking.
 
#4 ·
I'm going to put my stage 3+ and flywheel in tomorrow night. I'll post if I have any problems after. The only things it could be are the crank trigger teeth on the flywheel or the sensor or a bad connection. It's strange that it only does this on wot. Check the plug on the sensor. Make sure it's all the way in and make sure that the guy who did the job didn't bust it either. It's on top of the trans right next to where it blots to the block. You should be able to see it from the engine bay on the driver side.
 
#7 ·
Well another mental note for the install is that the throw out bearing separated during the install... had to get a new one.

But the limp mode isnt ever time I go WOT its happend when I'm like slowly cruising, then really mash the throttle and go nuts, for example I was going slow in first, shifted into 2nd had like 10% trottle for a few seconds then WOT, shifted at red line and bam 0 rpm. The limp mode/ 0 RPM thing kinda weird me out. The pending crank error could be unrelated to the limp mode but because the car fails to start the first crank after limp mode. I'll try and get it into limp mode again, leave the car off for a few minutes. If it starts on the first time I bet it wont throw that pending code (it doesn't throw a CEL and the code auto clears itself on the next start).

I'm also not sure if it throws the code every time since I just bought the scanner after it happened 3 times, then went out to try and cause the issue. Going to give it another try tomorrow and see if I can get it to go to limp mode, but maybe resetting the ECU and letting it learn some rougher driving habits will help.
 
#9 ·
Unfortunatley, I'm sure they are related... but what is broken is the issue... the roads are wet so I can't really go WOT without spinning the tires so when it dries up I'll see whats going on.


Anyone in NY/NJ have something I can do some data logging via the OBDII port? I really don't have the money to spend to buy something than can, especially if I may need to get another new clutch/flywheel... labor charges are a real c*** (apparently they don't edit out the c word lol). Did everything on my own till now, so the costs of labor is a bit of a sticker shock :eek:
 
#10 ·
First, do you have a CMD?

Second, I went through this once. What fixed it for me was, I reconnected the whole CMD harness. BTW, I found a bunch of crappy and weak connections in the CMD. It seems like they cut costs by using single crimp pins which makes connections a bit loose and fragile at times. I'll be redoing the harness as soon as I get my replacements ordered. but that's info for a new thread :)

you just had your flywheel replaced and the sensor is kinda close by, dont you think? Was the CKP(crankshaft position sensor) removed and installed after the tranny was in?

I'd check the CKP sensor connection first.
 
#11 ·
No CMD here... I actually saw your thread when googling the problem =)

Not sure if the CKP was moved or not, I'll talk to my mechanic who did it tomorrow about that. I can inspect much myself as I don't have a garage or a good lightsource, and I leave for work before the sun comes up and get home after dark. I'll look into it this weekend I guess.
 
#13 ·
if you're having this issue after the install, you need to bring it back to who did the work.

Seems like they may have made a goof.
 
#14 ·
The crank sensor is mounted on the trans. It reads a set of teeth on the flywheel. It had to be taken off to do the clutch. Being a tech I hate to blame one but I also know crap happens. I'd bring it back to where it was done and tell them to check it out.
 
#19 ·
So I checked the crank sensor... It seemed to be connected fine, but I un plugged it and replugged it and set it back in its little clip again. I think I'll try to get it to go into the limp mode again 1 more time tonight. After that I'm going to wait till I can get out to long island, josh is gonna hook me up with some data logging so I can see what is happening when I hit that limp mode.

Hopefully my resetting of the ECU fixed it, and maybe in the off chance that the crank sensor was not fully plugged back in, that fixed it as well. Gonna give SPEC a call about the flywheel and see if there was a spacer needed because mine didn't have any. Guys with the SPEC flywheel have any insight on that?
 
#20 ·
Just put mine in last night. Been drivein it around with no problems. There was no spacer or any need for one. Bolts right up. I'm lovein this thing so far. Peddle is about twice as heavy and it bites hard. This is how it should be. Like I said before though the only things it could be is the sensor or the ring on the flywheel or wires. I honestly doubt it's the flywheel. If that part was messed up it should cause a problem all the time. I wish I lived closer lol. I'd take a look at it for ya.
 
#22 ·
Florida lol
 
#25 ·
tad too far lol... I thought it was actually doing it at certain RPMs now because I went wot in 1st and it cut out at 6500rpm but then I was able to go passed 7k no problem WOT. a few minutes later I got it to die at maybe 4kish in 2nd after going WOT from like 1500rpm in 2nd. Oh, and it throws the pending crank sensor code every time it goes into this limp mode. I had checked the crank sensor too, seems fine. Going to call SPEC and see if anyone experienced this problem, hopefully they will be able to help me out or I'll just deal with it till I can afford a new one :dunno: I'm betting the flywheel. Googling that code number and flywheel is all stories of people getting that right after a clutch/flywheel install and it being a faulty flywheel, not the crank sensor.
 
#24 ·
Most of the scan tools can't actually log data. U can see what's happening real time but not save it and replay it.
 
#27 ·
The ecu stores certain data when a code is set. I'm am a tech as well. I actually have my matco scanner in the car now. I wasn't aware that there was one that logged data though.
 
#29 ·
Any news on the problem? Mine just did it once today... Fml. I'll be on the phone with spec tomorrow!
 
#30 ·
I'm calling SPEC tomorrow as well. Gotta try and block some time out during my work day since their tech line is only open normal business hrs during the week and nothing on the weekend. Hope they have a good resolution for this, because everyday driving is a real treat with the clutch/flywheel combo other than the increased noise from the flywheel. I don't like being afraid to go WOT to pass someone wondering if my car is going to go into limp mode though. Really kills the enjoyment when you're always wondering if putting your foot all the way down is safe.

If anything, it will help me get a lot of life out of my winter tires :dunno:
 
#32 ·
You experienced this as well? I did reset my ecu the other day. Still got it to go into limp mode 2 times and haven't gone WOT since then because its kinda annoying. How many miles do you have on your clutch/flywheel? I'm around 1200 id say. I had it at 900 but then I had to reset the ECU and lost my trip computer reading.

Also noticed some wierd limpness in the clutch and then the car wont shift until I let off the pedal and press down again. It happens when its cold and the flywheel is doing its extra loud chattering. It has what I guess is normal humming/chattering on decel from 3k-2k, but somtimes it makes a higher pitched chatter from like 2800-2300rpm and if I push the clutch pedal in its soft and its like the line swells or something and it does not let me shift. I'm hoping a SS line will solve this or help with it, but depending on what happens with SPEC I'm not sure if I'll be keeping this long term.
 
#34 ·
I've gotten it to happen 5 times so far. 2 times after resetting the ECU but only driving maybe like 30 miles after the reset. Don't have the time/money to get the flywheel replaced right now, even if they send me a new one for free I can't afford the labor till january. Maybe it will work itself out... I guess I'll go WOT a bit tomorrow morning on the way to work. The highway is empty so I don't need to worry about stalling/needed to pass anyone after the entrance merger.

Also, the CKP sensor harness is the one that is the CMD plugs into near the firewall, right? Not sure what you do to check it, I looked at it, disconnected and reconnected it. If it was a problem with the CKP sensor I think there would be much more problems than only 1 in ~5 times going WOT the car goes into limp mode.
 
#35 ·
I havnt reset the ecu yet. It happened twice today. It's strange though. It didn't do it for over 200 miles and then twice today. I hope spec stands behind their product well!!!
 
#39 ·
So, I spoke with SPEC. They say the've never had this problem with their product on the gensis coupe and they've done tons of testing to make sure the trigger wheel matches up like stock etc...

They want pics of the trigger wheel to see what the issue is. Don't think I want to go down this path of paying to drop the transmission to take pics and go back and forth with them on this. My mechanic may have took some pics during the install so I'm going to see if he has anything. I'm not paying to have my transmission dropped without a new flywhee in hand from SPEC or a whole new clutch/flywheel combo from someone else. Not paying to have the transmission removed multiple times to have a product I still don't beleive will work, especially since surfmavrik has the same issue and dennis_david had it but it went away.

Maybe surfmavrik will have better results. Also I spoke with someone named Jeremy at the service line, so if you get him and he says they haven't heard of this problem with our car before, then DTMSPEEd here I come...
 
#40 ·
Well the competition clutch setup is right around the corner, hold out until then, and i promise you won't be disappointed.

Part# Engine Type/description Price
5095-0420 2.0T PERFORMANCE CLUTCH KIT - SCC Stage 5 - 4 Pad Rigid Ceramic $895
5095-0620 2.0T PERFORMANCE CLUTCH KIT - SCC Stage 4 - 6 Pad Rigid Ceramic $895
5095-1420 2.0T PERFORMANCE CLUTCH KIT - SCC Stage 5 - 4 Pad Ceramic $895
5095-1620 2.0T PERFORMANCE CLUTCH KIT - SCC Stage 4 - 6 Pad Ceramic $895
5095-1680 2.0T PERFORMANCE CLUTCH KIT - SCC Ironman - 6 Pad Iron $995
5095-2100 2.0T PERFORMANCE CLUTCH KIT - SCC Stage 2 - Steelback Brass Plus $895
5095-2300 2.0T PERFORMANCE CLUTCH KIT - SCC Stage 3 - Segmented Kevlar $995
 
#41 ·
I called and got the answering machine for the guy who has handled my stuff from the order. If I don't hear from them tomorrow I'll call again. If it comes down to them needing pix I'll take the trans out and do that to save everyone else the labor. I havnt had a problem today so I'll see what the next few days hold.
 
#42 ·
I'm going on 1100 miles and still no cel... Not sure whats special/different about mine but it's been problem free. I had Hyundai do the install so I'm not even sure what exactly was done.

Really sucks though as the Clutchmasters clutch blew up on Vu with low miles on it and people are having CEL issue with the Spec clutch. Hopefully someone comes out with an affordable reliable solution soon. Where's ACT and Exedy at? Anyone hear anything about them making something for the GC? I'd rather have an occational CEL pop up, even though I haven't yet, then have the clutch rip apart at the drag strip so I'll be sticking with Spec for now.
 
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