I've searched around for a while and haven't got any good answers, what is the best engine oil for the GC? I don't much care about price so I'd like to know what the best oil is for someone who doesn't take it to a track, but does almost redline a few times everyday.
thanks in advanced
If you have to ask just stick with the oil weight Hyundai recommends and buy a name brand synthetic, which will be more than adequate for daily driving, Walmart has great prices on jugs of Mobil, Pennzoil, etc.
When I had my 2006 V6 Altima, I used German made Castrol 0W30 for the entire time I had the car...100,000 miles and never a problem. Did not leak or rattle on startup. Never burned any. A great oil for a performance type engine! I was younger then and doing my own OCs was a good option. Too hard on the GCs without access to a lift.
So I'm mostly seeing a common trend of Royal Purple oil being great, Mobil 1 oil being very reliable (this is probably because I'm just retarded when it comes to oil but it seems too mainstream to be considered good enough for someone who likes to push their engine, correct me if I'm wrong of course), Castrol too seems to be great, and that Amsoil has very mixed reviews. Anyone care to comment on that? Thanks!
For daily and occasional spirited driving conditions, I'd recommend anything the deal suggest which in this case would be 5w30. However, You are right in doing research to see what you might like to try for your baby..we all want the best for our own. I use Royal Purple. I feel it smooths out the revs
I run Amsoil European Car Formula 5W-40. Any decent motor oil has additives that allow it to adhere to metal and prevent "dry" start up. The issue with turbocharged engines, is that the turbo get's extremely hot under heavy boost. Shutting down the cooling oil flow without allowing the turbo to cool a bit, could lead to the remaining oil film burning off. If that happens, the turbo bearings will by dry on start up.
If that's your biggest concern, spend a few hundred dollars on a remote filter with a pre-oiler, and you won't have to worry about dry start up, no matter what oil you use.
Consumer Reports did an oil test long ago and concluded all oils basically offered no difference in protection on some engines they were running tests on in New York Taxi cabs, with the exception of synthetics. Back then Mobil 1 synthetic was the top dog in extreme heat conditions for motors IIRC, but offered very little difference when internals were measured for wear, etc. But everyone has opinions and this is one of those questions that gets everyone going on their opinions without much actual proven scientific data to back it up. I would say stick with what your owners manual says. Mine says Quaker State Synthetic and pick your weight based on where you live weather wise and how you drive. The best fuel economy is achieved with 5W-30 for most applications according to most owner manuals/manufacturers, but it's up to you to decide. I run what the owners manual says and I have no issues. Just my two cents, please don't pounce all over me oil lovers if you differ from my opinions.......lol.
5w40 best for any gen in North America . Turbo that is and if your not flat out racing . I would rather prolong engine life then than save a few cents at the pump .
I run 0w-40 Euro blend and my engine seems to run better (smoother). There is no "best oil" if you are using a name brand and following the recommendations of your manual. The key is changing your oil and filter often enough. I run the full synthetic Euro blend as I stated and my OCI is 4k. I also have a ceramic magnet on my oil pan to grab any metallic particles floating around.
Last and final question: I don't know what brand oil is in there or what thickness, is it ok to add, say, a different brand that has different thickness over that as in without taking all the previous oil out?
That's not ideal, oil changes are cheap compared to most of the other regular maintenance, just start fresh with a complete oil and filter change so you know what's in there and how old it is.
Been lurking in this forum for awhile thought I'd throw my 2 cents in; most "synthetic" oils are not true synthetics they are hydrocracked group 3 oils mixed with group 2 oil. Amsoil, Mobil 1 and a few others are group 4 and are true synthetics. For the few extra dollars my vehicles get only real synthetics.
The US has allowed the oil producers to use the term synthetic even if it's not fully synthetic. The rest of the world only labels fully synthetic oil as synthetic.
No modern oil is fully synthetic, PAO doesn't hold onto the additives required for the oil to do it's job for the life of it's interval, so all commercial motor oils have a percentage of non-synthetic base oils in it, problem is in the US they aren't required to tell you the percentage. The best way to guess and get as high a percentage of PAO as possible is to buy a 0W oil, or a "European Formula", or a synthetic that meets the extended change intervals of the German car brands, or a combo of all three.
Also, it appears that Mobil 1 0W40 Euro has been discontinued in the US and is now just Mobil 1 0W40 which does not meet BMW LL-01 any more, meaning they cheaped out and reduced it's PAO content, so my search for a new oil of choice that isn't overpriced starts over...
I have used the Castrol 0w-40 Euro blend for my last two oil changes. This was because Wally World was out of the M1 0w-40 Euro blend. I guess now I know why. I blame the restroom policy at Mobil for all this!!!
Hmm, good to know, I tried to do some research on the new formula and only ran into questions or complaints about the change, no real answers on what it meant. If you have a link to any discussions on BitOG or similar forums please share them.
I did the same as you and found the same results across the forums. No one had real answers and just complaining.
Ended up doing my own quick research on what constitutes the LL-01 rating, what standards the new Mobil 1 met and from there, the results are pretty clear.
The items about PAO not being less and the Visom vs GTL info i copied from another thread, that I had quoted another thread, that had been quoted in another thread. hadnt found the original with the source, but it was confirmed in several threads as this being the case.
I used to do this.... First... originate an email with something you made up (for instance, Mobil One is being discontinued)..... then forward it to a friend, who forwards it to a friend, who forwards it to a friend.... by the third time it is forwarded, it is now gospel and a new truth is born!
In any case, I guess I'll keep using 0W-40 unless I find out for certain that they reduced the PAOs.
Both formulas have the same API/ACEA requirements.
Looks like the new formula has lower viscosity values than the old formula.
However, the Total Base Number means that it may be able to hold up better to wear than the old formula
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