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HALLELUJAH!!! The Fix for 2013 Taillight Issues proves to be Valid!!!

17K views 48 replies 26 participants last post by  tova86 
#1 · (Edited)



SO HAPPY SO HAPPY SO HAPPY!!! :D :eek: :D

This has been bothering me for a while now, so I'm pretty stoked. Praise God, the fix works.

Several members have postulated that replacing the stop lamp switch may remedy the issues. And then last week, BTRcc (of whom I'm very grateful) posted this:

People experiencing problems with 13' tail lights in Korea have narrowed the problem down to the brake switch.

Not sure if it is the same case here but most problems have been solved by replacing the brake switch in Korea.

So since I had a service appointment at the dealership today, I bought a new switch while I was there, installed it, and sure enough,... There be light, and it was good, haha :bigsmile:

It's a quick and easy fix, took like 2 minutes. The switch is only 5 bucks. Glad they had it in stock too. Just use a 14mm wrench and you're golden.

Here's the info: 93810-3K000 SWITCH ASSY - STOP LAMP (4P)

Purchase it from a Hyundai dealership or order it online: http://www.jimellishyundaiparts.com...-ASSEMBLY---STOP-LAMP/3462551/938103K000.html [note: Verify the part number of your current switch before ordering]








If you're not familiar with the 2013 taillight issues I speak of, look here:

http://www.gencoupe.com/exterior-2008-2012/100630-2013-tail-light-problems.html
http://www.gencoupe.com/electrical-...ts-brake-lights-not-working-off-position.html
http://www.gencoupe.com/electrical-...er-keep-your-old-taillights-if-upgrading.html


And for those of you who were on the fence about upgrading... 'Sall good now :)










EDIT:
here's my theory:

The moving component of the brake switch is a spring loaded nylon button (the white thing sticking out the end of the switch). The brake pedal keeps the button pressed in when your foot is not on the brake. The circuit, for the most part, is open when the button is pressed, meaning no power to the taillights. But once you press the brake, the pedal disengages from the nylon button and the spring pushes the button out which in turn closes the circuit, allowing current to go to the taillights. Makes sense so for right?!

Now I could be WAAAAAYYY off base here, but I think that the friction the nylon button undergoes every time the brake pedal is pressed causes fine particles of the button to be shaved off against the inner housing of the switch and vice-versa. Over time, this build up of plastic sediment hinders the button from smoothly gliding in and out of the inner housing shaft. This lack of fluid movement results in the button sticking, or not fully disengaging.

I'm thinking that perhaps this makes for a partial contact path. Meaning that the circuit is somewhat closed because there is minute contact occurring, but not enough to let through the full magnitude of the current required to power all of the LEDs in both 2013 taillights, Hence the flickering, the partial segment lighting and the sometimes single taillight ignition. This subdued current may be enough to fully power the 2010-2012 OEM taillights, but not powerful enough to light up all of the LEDs present in the 2013 tails.

A new brake switch has not undergone the frictional fatigue which results from being pressed in and out repeatedly. In other words, it glides freely. So while you may be re-introducing the same exact part, having a brake switch that fully disengages will open up the current path to its maximum potential.

Right or wrong, that's all I got, haha :D
 
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#6 · (Edited)
Fa sho :D


Awesome! Thank you very much for posting this!

I guess I'm still a bit confused though. Does that mean all of our switch assemblies are faulty even though the older version lights still work? If they work correctly with the 2010 lights, then why would replacing the switch assembly with the same part fix it? Just seems odd to me I guess.


You're more than welcome man, just wanted to help everyone out.

And in regards to your question, I too wondered the same thing. And after examining the old brake switch, here's my theory:

The moving component of the brake switch is a spring loaded nylon button (the white thing sticking out the end of the switch). The brake pedal keeps the button pressed in when your foot is not on the brake. The circuit, for the most part, is open when the button is pressed, meaning no power to the taillights. But once you press the brake, the pedal disengages from the nylon button and the spring pushes the button out which in turn closes the circuit, allowing current to go to the taillights. Makes sense so for right?!

Now I could be WAAAAAYYY off base here, but I think that the friction the nylon button undergoes every time the brake pedal is pressed causes fine particles of the button to be shaved off against the inner housing of the switch and vice-versa. Over time, this build up of plastic sediment hinders the button from smoothly gliding in and out of the inner housing shaft. This lack of fluid movement results in the button sticking, or not fully disengaging.

I'm thinking that perhaps this makes for a partial contact path. Meaning that the circuit is somewhat closed because there is minute contact occurring, but not enough to let through the full magnitude of the current required to power all of the LEDs in both 2013 taillights, Hence the flickering, the partial segment lighting and the sometimes single taillight ignition. This subdued current may be enough to fully power the 2010-2012 OEM taillights, but not powerful enough to light up all of the LEDs present in the 2013 tails.

A new brake switch has not undergone the frictional fatigue which results from being pressed in and out repeatedly. In other words, it glides freely. So while you may be re-introducing the same exact part, having a brake switch that fully disengages will open up the current path to its maximum potential.

Right or wrong, that's all I got, haha :D



Dope! Now my new sequential black chrome '13 tails are gonna be perfect!

sent via DroidX
Hahaha, shameless plug :rofl:

Definitely looking forward to seein this setup Chris. And thanks for offering up all of the work arounds to fix the issue. Appreciate it :)
 
#3 ·
Awesome! Thank you very much for posting this!

I guess I'm still a bit confused though. Does that mean all of our switch assemblies are faulty even though the older version lights still work? If they work correctly with the 2010 lights, then why would replacing the switch assembly with the same part fix it? Just seems odd to me I guess.
 
#7 ·
That's what I figured, somehow the part is wearing out and it needs to be fully functional to allow for the taillights to work.

When I snag my 2013 taillights I will buy one of these as well.

Thanks again for the post.
 
#9 ·
Just an FYI there are three different brake pedal switches in the catalogue. Two different 4P's and one 2P.

Don't know the exact difference's between them all or why they have a 2 prong version. Canadian models use the 4P, when it's not raining and I've got time I'll verify the part number on mine.
 
#19 ·
Yeah, thanks for pointing that out Snoop. Before I went to the dealership yesterday, I looked Google searched for the brake switch part number for the Genesis Coupe and most of the results turned up 93810-2E000 SWITCH ASSY - STOP LAMP (2P)

Once I was at the service department, they serach according to my VIN and gave me the 93810-3K000 SWITCH ASSY - STOP LAMP (4P) part number.




:) good job~!!
Thanks again :)



Rizor is the man. Fo sho

Hopefully I won't need the fix when mine arrive but if I do I now have a fix.
Lol, you craze. Thanks brotha :D
 
#10 ·
If it's the same part, won't the problem arise further on down the road again?
 
#11 ·
lubricate the new part before installing. More than likely the first batch of brake switches were not lubricated when installed or an inferior plastic was used causing premature failure. As it's not a critical component for safety, just function, Hyundai doesn't have to issue a recall and can replace it on an as needed basis.
 
#14 ·
Just an FYI there are three different brake pedal switches in the catalogue. Two different 4P's and one 2P.

Don't know the exact difference's between them all or why they have a 2 prong version. Canadian models use the 4P, when it's not raining and I've got time I'll verify the part number on mine.
I would assume that 4p is for cars with cruise control.
 
#17 ·
Rizor is the man. Fo sho

Hopefully I won't need the fix when mine arrive but if I do I now have a fix.
 
#20 ·
A FIX! Finally!! Don't have issue with my set but you never know. Good Job Rizor! (Pretty sure everyone who already have this issue will :bowdown: )
 
#26 ·
Interesting. Well, the actuall part number molded onto the housing of the part, so you can verify your exact number of the part currently installed.



Replaced the brake switch and the tailights are working flawlessly now :). Just need to wait and see if it will remain that way.

I'm thinking maybe even adjusting your current brake switch could help resolve taillight issues if you haven't already bought a new one yet.
CONFIRMATION NUMBER 2!!!


That's awesome man glad to hear it. And yeah, I played around with the existing brake switch a couple of times. It would work fine for about 20 pumps before it went back to exhibiting the same issues. So I just replaced it all together since the new switch works 100 percent of the time.
 
#25 ·
Replaced the brake switch and the tailights are working flawlessly now :). Just need to wait and see if it will remain that way.

I'm thinking maybe even adjusting your current brake switch could help resolve taillight issues if you haven't already bought a new one yet.
 
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