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Garageline / TurboXS Coilovers Review

3K views 5 replies 5 participants last post by  imamooc 
#1 · (Edited)
TurboXS / GarageLine Coilovers



I switched from BC coilovers to GarageLine / TurboXS coilovers because I wasn’t fully happy with my BC coilovers and how they rode. I’ll be comparing the GL coilovers to the BC’s later in this post.

Originally I planned on making this a full DIY of how to install the coilovers, comments / concerns about the install, and then a review over a period of time. I decided to cut out the DIY on the install. There are plenty of other DIY’s on the forums on how to install coilovers, so it seemed like a waste of time. If need be, I can make a DIY.

Specs on the coilovers:
Monotube
6k front spring rate
8k rear spring rate
18 way dampening
Camber plates on the front coilovers

Let’s start out with the comments / concerns on the install itself. For the most part, the install is just like any other coilover. There are only a couple of places where things needed to be adjusted.

1. The brake line brackets that connect to the base of the coilover cannot be attached without bending the little tab on the brake line bracket flat. No big deal.


2. The rear shocks have three washers that go in between the base of the shock and the lower control arm. This prevents movement in the shock. It’s a pain in the ass to get those washers in the first couple times you do it, but after that it’s pretty easy. I think that the need for washers should be eliminated, but it isn’t a deal breaker.

3. The rear shocks have a slight gap in between the frame of the car and the top mount of the shock. It’s very slight, but my BC didn’t have this gap so I thought it was worth noting.


These three things are the only issues that I ran into, and I don’t consider them to be big ones by any means.

First ride after install: Let’s move on to the initial ride. I’m used to having my dampening on my coilovers higher than most because that’s just the way I like the ride. I started at 13/18 on the rear, and 15/18 on the front. I did not adjust the preload on the front or the rear. There was clunking coming from the rear, but the ride wasn’t bad. It was a bit too stiff for my liking.

After talking to Jermaine he suggested I played with the preload in the rear, and making the dampening softer all around. I then went to 13/18 front and 11/18 rear with a slight adjustment on the rear preload. I didn’t adjust the preload in the front.
This made the ride much more comfortable and the clunk was gone. I still wasn’t fully happy with the ride, so I adjusted the preload one final time, and set the dampening to 10/18 front and 9/18 in the rear.
This was the sweet spot for me. The ride is extremely comfortable and much more pleasant than my BC coilovers were. I felt like the BC coilovers had an inconsistent ride. Some days would be harsher than others even if the dampening remained untouched.

2 month update: After driving with this coilovers on for a little over 2 months now, I can say that I’m very happy with them. I had issues with bump steer for a while that became frustrating, but it ended up being a simple fix that I overlooked, and was not from the coilovers themselves. The ride is still very comfortable at 11/18 front and 10/18 rear. I think they’re great value for the money. There are no clunks, no rattles. The ride isn't harsh over bumps like my BCs were. I have no complaints

Hit up Jermaine@TurboXS or Raj@TurboXS and they’ll set you guys up.
 
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#2 ·
Awesome review can't wait to get mine in!
 
#3 ·
How does the size compare to BC's? The reason I am thinking about BC's is because they are slimmer coilovers and allow for some pretty aggressive setups. Also, you can slam BC's, how aggressive do these go as far as low
 
#4 ·
These are a bit larger than the BCs but not by much. They still clear oem wheels without any issues, even with -2.7 camber i still don't hit up front. They go pretty low. I'm tucking tire on my oem 19's. I had to remove one of the lock collars in the rear though. If I remove the other one it would go lower. The front has plenty of thread left and if you max it out it would definitely be un drivable.
 
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