GrimmSpeed

So in our never ending quest to find free mods, Hyundai has yet again kicked butt and deciced to give us an adjustable wastegate actuator. What this does is allow us to change the preload on the wastegate itself, which will allow the car to hold more boost. I was a bit doubtful that it would work on our cars because of the more sophisticated ECUs...i was worried it would still do whatever it needed to do to maintain target boost and thus net no gain. So far so good though, car immediately held more boost and gained torque. Unfortunately the dyno guys didnt have the boost sensor hooked up so we could see the actual before and after psi difference, but the dyno definitely speaks. There is definitely a spike in there but i think that is just from us not resetting the ECU and not giving the car anytime to learn. Hopefully once it learns it will smooth it out.


On to the HowTo

1. Remove Turbo heat shield (3) 10mm Bolts
2. Loosen the 10mm Nut that locks the end of the wastegate actuator arm. Back it up to about the end of the threads.
3. Take off the "C-Clip" with a pliers. Be careful and this will like to fly off while you are taking it off and you dont want to lose this.
4. Lift the "swivel bracket" off of the wastegate flapper door bracket. This is the part that we will be turning to shorten the overall length of the wastegate actuator arm.
5. Turn the "swivel bracket" clockwise, as if you were sitting behind the turbo looking at the front of the car. We turned it 2.5 complete turns but i would suggest turning 1.5 times or so and see how the car responds.
6. Place "Swivel bracket" back on wastegate flapper door bracket.
7. Replace "C-Clip".
8. Tighten 10mm Nut.
9. Replace turbo heat sheild (3) 10mm Bolts.





And on to the results. This is OEM vs. OEM w/ wastegate arm adjustment. Literally taken 10 minutes apart.



Video of the pulls. Make sure to watch the 3rd pull.


Justin

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MSUGeoman22

Nice, I gave mine a few turns myself a few days after I got it. Between this adjustment, the mbc, and the intake silencer delete the car feels much better IMO. Glad to see some numbers for changing the preload, did you guys log the boost at all to see if that held any better?

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4TGEN

will be trying this tongiht as soon as i get home

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FlesHBoX

Added to the [HowTo] sticky

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GrimmSpeed

thanks Fleshy!

Justin

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theironmonk

Doing this and a MBC is kind of pointless....

But good to know.

MSUGeoman22

Not pointless actually, especially considering that the stock WG with the stock solenoid attached will still attempt to act stock. The computer in this car WILL try to compensate for what it sees as "unpredicted" conditions, you can be sure of that. We have yet to be told what the release pressure of the stock WG even is but I will bet that it's somewhere in the neighborhood of 8-9psi unregulated. A few turns on the adjustment arm should increase the boost by a few psi but more importantly should help the WG flapper hold longer under exhaust load. It's especially not pointless if you plan on upgrading the turbo later on (which IMO a good number of people will).

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PureDrive

Son of a bitch.......I think I need to get this car in the near future.......Easily modified 2.0 turbo RWD coupe FTMFW........

1990tsi

did it tonight, takes about 5 minutes to do. also found a small flathead screwdriver worked better than pliers to remove the c-clip, but either way it's simple and effective!

did 2 full turns

whatnot

I did 2 fulls turns, and it got my boost to 18psi. There is a bit of a parallax effect and I am trying to stay in my lane so as not to stare at the gauge, but it was very close to 18 and the ECU never cut off the boost. That kind of makes me think, it was 17.5? But it was just short of 15 from the dealership, and well past 16 after 2 turns on WG. That was all 1st through 3rd gear.

4-6th gear, the gauge never went past 14, and fell much quicker, I am assuming the ECU did this?

mmrp81

I'm tempting to do this tommorow, assuming a few more people report with positive results.

srblacks13

I did 2 full turns the other day. Seems a little more responsive but I do not have a gauge yet some I dont know what boost is. Im gunna get a gauge soon I just dont know where to mount the damn thing

CrookedH

So I'm guessing with the 1.5 turn recommendation for the swivel joint that it's ok to rotate the actuator arm itself?

Sorry for the noob question, don't want to break anything.

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RocketSled

No, do not try to twist the actuator rod, this may (will) tear the diaphragm inside the actuator depending on construction. I'd even support it from turning while loosening or tightening the jam nut against the clevis (swivel bracket) as a precaution.

It takes a small flathead and about 5 seconds to pop the clip off. Break the 10mm jam nut loose before removing the clip.

This whole process takes about 3 minutes start to finish on a cool engine.

2.0t

i did this on friday along witht the silencer delete. and i can definatly feel the tires spin more easily then before. thatnks for the great DIY!

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CrookedH

How is it possible to get the 1.5 turns of the swivel joint without rotating the actuator arm? If you only do a half turn of the swivel joint the hole will end up vertical instead of horizontal... I'm not doubting, just inquiring... Am I missing something?

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GenTarkin

I was thinking that too lol

GrimmSpeed

a half of a turn will not make the swivel joint vertical, did you mean 1/4 of a turn? you can either do a full turn or a half turn(ie 360 or 180 degrees), you cant do quarter turns.

Justin

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CrookedH

Ahhhh. I was thinking a turn was 180 not 360. I'll give it a shot tomorrow now that I won't break anything.

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doots

did any one notice more noise coming form the exhaust is it possible im hearing the dump after preforming this?


did 2 turns. almost sounds like a backfire but much softer