Tomei M7960 Bolt on Turbo *pictures* - Page 4 - Hyundai Genesis Forum
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post #61 of 712 Old 03-26-2014, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by D!RTYLOUD View Post
Yup SAME thing happened with me. I was waiting about 2-3 weeks without any contact from BTR. I was then updated via email that my item had shipped. It only took about 5 days total IF that to go from Korea to my door. I too sent emails, and called but no answer. I know they were out tunning in different states when my transactions were going on.
Same thing happened to me when I got my ECU from BTR. Granted it was just a race tune, not the tomei tune. But I waited for 2 weeks with no info at all. The tracking info updated the day before I received the package. I got the tune and it was lacking 1:1 throttle to build boost with launch control. BTR fixed the problem very quickly though so I was happy. I have just concluded im going to go haltech before I get a bigger turbo.
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post #62 of 712 Old 03-26-2014, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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Same thing happened to me when I got my ECU from BTR. Granted it was just a race tune, not the tomei tune. But I waited for 2 weeks with no info at all. The tracking info updated the day before I received the package. I got the tune and it was lacking 1:1 throttle to build boost with launch control. BTR fixed the problem very quickly though so I was happy. I have just concluded im going to go haltech before I get a bigger turbo.
Uh oh! I hope I don't run into my 1:1 missing. I honestly could care less about the launch control. Is the 1:1 a huge noticeable difference or did you figure it out by not having the launch control? I opted for both options, but I mainly care about the 1:1. When you say BTR fixed the issue fast, did you have to send the ECU back out to them? That would cause me downtime since the stock ECU isnt tuned for larger injectors...I can't have downtime lol shes my daily.

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post #63 of 712 Old 03-26-2014, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by D!RTYLOUD View Post
Uh oh! I hope I don't run into my 1:1 missing. I honestly could care less about the launch control. Is the 1:1 a huge noticeable difference or did you figure it out by not having the launch control? I opted for both options, but I mainly care about the 1:1. When you say BTR fixed the issue fast, did you have to send the ECU back out to them? That would cause me downtime since the stock ECU isnt tuned for larger injectors...I can't have downtime lol shes my daily.
Yes I noticed from launch control. WITH 1:1 throttle, you should build ~4-8PSI on race tune, but when I would engage launch control it would not build boost at all. I took a video and sent it to BTR and they said that it needs 1:1 to build boost with launch control. I did have to send the ECU back, but I sent the ECU and got it back in about a week. I can run on stock ECU so that might be a problem if something does in fact go wrong with yours.
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post #64 of 712 Old 03-26-2014, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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Oh ok so in order to build boost with the launch control you need 1:1. So I test it by trying out my launch control and watching boost gauge lol.

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post #65 of 712 Old 03-26-2014, 02:41 PM
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Oh ok so in order to build boost with the launch control you need 1:1. So I test it by trying out my launch control and watching boost gauge lol.
I cant say that im 100% sure that is how you would test if a car has 1:1 throttle, but my understanding from BTRcc was that my car was not building boost in launch control because it did not have 1:1 throttle.

This is without 1:1. notice how the boost falls back down once it hits the limiter. It sounds like your average launch control.



I don't have a video from inside, but this is outside after I got the ECU back with 1:1 throttle. It sounds more like all the other launch controls on the Genesis.


These videos were both with only intake and downpipe back exhaust with stock primary cat.
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post #66 of 712 Old 03-27-2014, 07:52 AM
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Is your o2 housing custom? I was under the impression that any o2 housing would work?!

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post #67 of 712 Old 03-27-2014, 08:02 AM Thread Starter
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Is your o2 housing custom? I was under the impression that any o2 housing would work?!
My o2 housing is NOT custom. It's the CNT o2 exhaust housing. Should work perfectly. I have not tried fitment onto the DP however as the turbo is still out of the car.

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post #68 of 712 Old 03-27-2014, 01:15 PM
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ECU arrived today

Depending on my mood, I may get around to pulling my cold side IC piping this weekend to get a BOV flange welded on and then drop the turbo in the following week. We'll see.

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post #69 of 712 Old 03-27-2014, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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ECU arrived today

Depending on my mood, I may get around to pulling my coil side IC piping this weekend to get a BOV flange welded on and then drop the turbo in the following week. We'll see.
Awesome dude! I'm thinking I may do it this weekend if I have the time. If not, probably next weekend.

Post pics !

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post #70 of 712 Old 03-27-2014, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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Grimmspeed phenolic spacer arrived today!




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- Like top mount turbos? Click the link below
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post #71 of 712 Old 03-27-2014, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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So I got off early from work and decided to go down to the local hardware store and pick up the other 2 studs, nuts, and bolts I needed. There is a place near me called McFadden Dale Industrial Hardware that has just about any nut, bolt, screw, stud, fitting you can think of and an insanely cheap price.

Today I picked up:
- (2) M10x1.25 x 40mm double sided threaded studs for the exhaust manifold. These are the studs that screw into the manifold but also have threading on the opposite side in which the nut holds the turbo into place.
- (2) M10x1.25 hex nuts
- (3) M8x1.25 x 40mm bolts for the GS Phenolic IM spacer.

So since I had some free time today I decided to get the turbo mated to the manifold along with the o2 housing. I'm pretty much all ready to install the turbo onto the car, just need to find some time.



















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post #72 of 712 Old 03-27-2014, 09:32 PM
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2012 2.0T Base Nordschleife Grey
-Brembo calipers -Brembo sport drilled rotors -Hawk HPS pads (front) -EBC Yellowstuff (rear) -ATE super blue
-cp-e intake -TurboXS steathback (heat wrapped) -TurboXS GT catback -TurboXS FMIC -ISC coils -Varrstoen es2 19X9.5/10.5 - Michelin Pilot Super Sports -OEM LSD -SFR Custom tune!!!
-Alpine type-s speakers all around -JBL 8" sub -Custom backup camera
http://goo.gl/tMQM7 Some pics


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post #73 of 712 Old 03-28-2014, 02:02 PM
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Looks good
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post #74 of 712 Old 03-28-2014, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redfoxhound View Post
I don't believe in that dumb quote about setting a bird free, because once you set it free that bitch be suckin all the dicks that bird can get.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TorqueAddict View Post
It can be frustrating, expecting that sudden boost and then it falls flat. Sort of like when you’re masturbating, at climax and the damn phone rings.
Quote:
Originally Posted by usedwolf View Post
If you replace the pipes, could you just get a Y spliter and also have a CAI installed below the airbox? Can the turbo/ engine handle that much air flow?
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post #75 of 712 Old 03-28-2014, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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ROFLMAO!!!
This is great. Thanks for making my day

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post #76 of 712 Old 03-29-2014, 10:23 AM
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Nice
The problem with the studs is if you don't use "crushed nuts" they will come loose, mine did in less than 500 miles, this time i used bolts and made sure they won't come loose ever...lol




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post #77 of 712 Old 03-29-2014, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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That's a good idea actually. Did you drill the holes in the heads yourself? And do you know if the bolts are the same size? This seems like a better alternative.

M10-1.25 x 80mm
M10-1.25 x 40mm

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post #78 of 712 Old 03-29-2014, 12:12 PM
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Not sure of the sizes, they might be a bit smaller than the studs but its easy to measure.
Drilling its pretty easy with a good Dewalt bit, or 2...they do break

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2011 Auto. BK2 engine, Elite Evo 9 kit with TD06HR-20G 9 blade turbine wheel and 7+7 billet compressor wheel, with BTR stage 3 tune, CXR intercooler, full exhaust with ARK...ported heads and intake manifold...bla.bla.bla
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post #79 of 712 Old 03-29-2014, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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A little update.

I took lightthemup's advice and went the bolt way instead of the stud nut type of thing.

I picked up from my local hardware store and picked up a few bolts, washers, lock washers, anti sieze, and steel galvanized wire.

- (2) M10-1.25 x 80mm bolts
- (2) M10-1.25 x 30mm bolts
- (4) M10 washers
- (4) M10 lock washers
- (1) 19 Gauge 50ft galvanized wire
- (1) pack of bolt anti sieze

*NOTE* 1 of the 80mm bolts was about 10mm too long so I had cut the bolt about 10mm so it was now 70mm which was perfect length. The other 80mm bolt is fine as it's able to thread all the way through the turbos exhaust housing so no need to cut both, just one.

I drilled holes in the heads of each bolt, slipped the lock washer on, slipped the regular washer on, out anti sieze on the threading and torqued the bolts down. I then cut about 6" of wire and slide them through the holes, and twist tied them tight. I did it twice for each set of bolts just in case one snapped. I also tied them on opposite side to super ensure the bolts won't move.








2010 Nord Gray 2.0T Track - M/T

- Like top mount turbos? Click the link below
http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t-discuss...-pictures.html
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post #80 of 712 Old 03-30-2014, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D!RTYLOUD View Post
A little update.

I took lightthemup's advice and went the bolt way instead of the stud nut type of thing.

I picked up from my local hardware store and picked up a few bolts, washers, lock washers, anti sieze, and steel galvanized wire.

- (2) M10-1.25 x 80mm bolts
- (2) M10-1.25 x 30mm bolts
- (4) M10 washers
- (4) M10 lock washers
- (1) 19 Gauge 50ft galvanized wire
- (1) pack of bolt anti sieze

*NOTE* 1 of the 80mm bolts was about 10mm too long so I had cut the bolt about 10mm so it was now 70mm which was perfect length. The other 80mm bolt is fine as it's able to thread all the way through the turbos exhaust housing so no need to cut both, just one.

I drilled holes in the heads of each bolt, slipped the lock washer on, slipped the regular washer on, out anti sieze on the threading and torqued the bolts down. I then cut about 6" of wire and slide them through the holes, and twist tied them tight. I did it twice for each set of bolts just in case one snapped. I also tied them on opposite side to super ensure the bolts won't move.







:bowd own:

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