Hyundai Genesis Forum banner

TurboXS Garret GTX2867R Ball Bearing Top Mount Turbo Kit Build Thread *picture heavy*

111K views 537 replies 41 participants last post by  Grail1505 
#1 · (Edited)
So it's time to start a new project!!
I BOUGHT A TURBO XS GEN-GT TURBO KIT!! TOP MOUNT BABY!!! WOOOOOO!!!


Seriously this is how I feel right now:


My kit came with the Garrett GTX2867R with Tial V-band turbine housing .64 AR and an AGP 46mm external wastegate. I am excited as f!ck!

I really loved the performance of my TD05-20G ( http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t-discussion-2008-2012/116331-kinugawa-td05-20g-bolt-turbo-pictures.html ), and I was really ready to do the full t3 conversion to that build, but I ran across this irresistible deal on a very lightly used ( under 1000 miles ) TurboXS GTX2867R kit, and basically I felt morally obligated to buy it. This particular kit was originally purchased for a show car owned by Jesse, the owner of Lumiere Auto Design. He decided almost immediately after installing it ( before even getting tuned, literally within a few hundred mikes of installing ) to go with a different setup. He sold it to Hugo, the owner of Kia Hyundai Auto Repair/ Kia Hyundai Auto Racing/ KHARtunerz. Hugo installed the kit for literally 1 day then came across another deal on a TurboXS GTX3076R kit, and bought that kit instead, then I came along and bought this GTX2867R a couple of weeks later at a price that is , let’s say, well under half retail price. A few days ago, Hugo put down 466whp, 440wtq on e85 with his TXS GTX3076 R kit and a Haltech and the 2013 bottom end.

Here are some shots of Hugo’s car, with the GTX 3076. Mine should look similar in the end only with a slightly smaller turbo:











AGP wastegate installed on Hugo’s car:


Hugo's final dyno sheet:



I think th GTX3076 is the same turbo SteveJohns79 uses with his 2012 style bottom end, and puts down something like 460whp/360wtq. Here is Steve's dyno sheet:




I am NOT GOING FOR HUGE NUMBERS LIKE THAT . Get that idea out of your heads now guys LOL. My goal is 360-370whp with a nice fat powerband, and no more than 330wtq, again with a nice broad and usable torque curve. I’m building my car more for track racing, and not drag racing, so the response really matters. I have always been pleased with the response of my billet wheel 20g, and I expect greater power and faster response than the billet wheel 20g. I also want to experience what it’s like to get away from the restrictive OEM exhaust manifold, which is still too restrictive even when ported by Grimmspeed. Later on once I’ve built my bottom end, maybe in 2015, I can really max out this GTX2867R turbo and maybe hit 400whp/400wtq or higher.

Well, let my top mount project officially begin! May the odds forever be in my favor!

There’s the majority of my kit, laying on the floor like a used whore. That manifold though!



Here’s what TurboXS has to say about this kit on their site:
The GT Turbo Kit allows you to install a Garret GT or GTX 28/30/35 to your Genesis Coupe. Depending on the turbocharger you select, horspower levels range from a quickspooling ~375whp to a top-end drag monster capable of ~600+ whp. This kit give you everything you need to install one of these incredible turbochargers onto your Gencoupe including:
• 304 Stainless Steel Turbo Manifold for Garrett GT/GTX 28/30/35 turbos with TiAL V-band exhaust housing
• 304 Stainless Steel V-band Downpipe
• 304 Stainless Steel Wastegate Dump Tube
• Massive 4" Polished Aluminum Intake with Filter
• Polished 2.5" Aluminum Intercooler Pipe (designed to mate to TurboXS FMIC only; other FMICs will need custom pipe work made for the hot side)
• All Coolant Lines and Fittings
• All Oil Lines and Fittings
• Heat Shield for Fuse Box and Coolant/Oil Return Lines
• All Hardware, Gaskets, T-bolt clamps, V-band Clamps etc.
• ECU Reflash (you will need to send us your ECU)

NOTE: You MUST purchase other items to make a COMPLETE turbo kit. These items can be added using the drop down menus above or can be purchased separately. These items include:
• Turbocharger: Garrett GT/GTX 28/30/35 with Tial V-band exhaust housing ONLY
• ~375whp GTX2867R with .64 A/R Tial Exhaust Housing
• Wastegate: AGP Turbo 46mm Wastegate; any other Wastegate will NOT work
• Injectors: Deatschworks 750 cc/min; our reflash will NOT work with any other injectors
• Front Mount Intercooler: TurboXS FMIC (GEN-FMIC); GEN-GT kits come with one pipe hot side replacement pipe. If you have a different FMIC, you will need custom pipework made for the hot side.

I’ve already got the TXS FMIC, and Bosch 750CC injectors, and TXS RFL Bov from my existing turbo build, so that stuff carries over with the new kit. However the HOT SIDE intercooler pipe had to be replaced with one specific to this kit, since the pipe is totally different than the OEM style FMIC pipe. The rest of the FMIC kit is identical to what I already have.

Power Goal: 350-400whp on 91 octane. I really think I can hit 360-370 fairly easily.

Let’s get into some parts.

First up, the turbo itself!
The smallest, quickest spooling turbo we offer for the GEN-GT kit is ideal for Street and AutoCross but will still produces an easy ~400 whp on 93 octane pump gas on our dyno.
Features include:
• Fully-Machined 10-Blade Billet Wheel.
• Dual Ball bearing oil & water cooled CHRA.
• Ported compressor shroud to increase surge resistance.
Sold with Tial .64 A/R turbine housing.
Just LOOK AT IT!!











Tial V-band turbine housing




Do some of you “ new to turbos” guys understans what makes a V-band setup cool? There are no gaskets, and no bolts/studs/nuts for any part of the turbo/downpipe/manifold. It makes installing and removing the turbo really really easy as everything is held together by “ V-band clamps” that look like giant heavy duty hose clamps for exhaust systems. It’s a really trick setup that allows maximum ease of installation and servicing, and makes swapping turbos an absolute breeze. Something you can do in an hour instead of a day. This TXS setup uses Vband for the turbo to manifold, turbo to downpipe, and for the external wastegate. Outside of any possible lower clearance issues due to the manifold , this should be a much easier kit to install than an OEM style TD05-20G kit.

Speaking of the TD05-20G, here are a couple of pics of the GarrettGTX2867R vs the Kinugawa TD05-20G compressor housing. The Garrett isn’t much bigger at all. However the outside dimensions don’t tell the whole story. I need to track down the flow ratings ( CFM ) for these turbos.







Something else I noticed was that the dual ball bearing CHRA in the GTX2867R turbo is a LOT smaller than the journal bearing CHRA of the TD05-20G



Here are a few shots of the AGP 46mm external wastegate that came with my kit:




Next up is the TXS tubular steel manifold. This thing is built like a tank, really nicely done piece. I can’t wait to try it out.


Now I’ve got some reservations about running a tubular manifold in my daily driver, so we will see how this works out in the coming years. It is going to get ceramic coated before being installed. This time I am going to use Swaintech instead of Grimmspeed for all of my ceramic work. Grimmspeed doesn’t offer the color WHITE, and I’m told that Swaintech is flat out better anyway. Hopefully it doesn’t cost any more than Grimmspeed does lol.

More manifold porn
















Next up is the 02 housing. Due to the top mount being higher up in the engine bay, this kit requires a new 02 housing, but at least still ends at the OEM downpipe location so your existing downpipe of any brand should work with it. I have the TXS Racepipe downpipe already so no fitment worries for me.

The new TXS Gen-GT 02 housing includes a port for recirculating the wastegate dump tube ( which is also V-band on one side )




Wastegate and downpipe porn







There are a few other parts in the kit but these are the highlights.

I’m not sure when I will begin installing, within the next 30 days probably. I have to send the downpipe, 02 housing, turbine housing, and manifold off to get white ceramic coated by Swaintech. I’m sure that will take a couple of weeks at least. Once that stuff is back, I’ll jump right into the build, then I’ll have to coordinate with BTR about getting in on their next SoCal tuning event.

The Swaintech coating should look something like this when it’s all done:




Well, that’s it for now guys, I’ll be doing some big updates to this thread very soon!

 
See less See more
41
  • Like
Reactions: BrandonM
#449 ·
Haha.... The first night I pumped E85 into my tank and went out for a datalogging/tuning run I actually got arrested. Be careful!
 
  • Like
Reactions: kepone
#458 ·
This made me LOL! Are you serious?
 
#451 ·
? Where do you even get this stuff. Why would I remove the tips I just specifically bought these injectors for LOL. How could you even make that claim without seeing what's behind the double fogger tip, or knowing the internal design of the injector? Or even knowing it's current spray pattern? I'm definitely definitely not removing the tips. The injectors work fine, but they aren't any better or worse so far than any other injector in this class.
 
#452 ·
From what I could see in the pictures you took it looks similar to to the 750's you had, but I could be wrong as it's hard to see in there with your extremely large aperture, get it huh huh? Anyway I did my research:

Method and structure for optimizing atomization quality of a low pressure fuel injector
Fuel injector with impinging jet atomizer
Gas-assisted Atomizing Devices And Methods Of Making Gas-assisted Atomizing Devices, Page 1
Fuel Injector Nozzle Assembly With Induced Turbulence, Page 1
Injection Valve With Single Disc Turbulence Generation, Page 1
Fuel Injector With Turbulence Generator For Fuel Orifice, Page 1
Method and structure for optimizing atomization quality of a low pressure fuel injector
Apparatus and method for controlling the cone angle of an atomized spray from a low pressure fuel injector
Method of making fuel injectors for internal combustion engines
Method for calibrating a fuel injection valve, and fuel injection valve

If you read those and compare the physical dimensions to those of your new injectors it doesn't seem at all like they do anything but inhibit the atomization of the fuel. In the end they flow what they flow but I wouldn't place any confidence in those tips improving the quality of fuel injection.
 
#455 ·
Again, while I do appreciate your opinion and research, you started with a flawed piece of information- that the injector tips are similar in design. They are not.

As you can see in this picture..


The tip of the new injector is nothing like the old one. You can see behind the double fogger tip, and it shows that the tip on the new injector is flush with the body, not sticking out 5mm like the 750's. These injectors have a different tip than anything else you can currently buy on the market. So if you began your research figuring a similar tip behind the double fogger tip, then your research began with a faulty piece of information, and thus the end conclusion is also most likely incorrect.

While I do value your input and opinion, you haven't seen the injectors, you haven't ridden in my car, and you are basing your entire opinion on a picture. Hardly scientific, which is sad given the amount of research you just did. You know I dislike getting caught up in pointless debate, so please let that be the end of it.

Here is some information that USRT/ Genesis II sent me, and I hope it helps you find the info you want. These results are fror 3 BAR fuel pressure.



























Thanks!
-Z-
 
#453 ·
About the oil... I found that the condition of the oil deteriorated in a way that made me very uncomfortable after just a few hundred miles on a fresh change. I had always used Mobile 1 5w-30 or 10w-30. After a lot of research I recommend you try Mobile 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40. It has properties that neutralize the bad effects E85 has on motor oil. It sounded funny to me at first to run a "Turbo Diesel Truck" oil in a high performance spark-ignition engine, but don't take my word for it. Research for yourself. I have found it to work very well.

I have been running E85 in my turbocharged Integra for coming up on 9 years/100K miles now. Up to 30psi with a 3076. No mechanical failures, no hiccups. E85, it's good stuff. ;)
 
#456 ·
If you'd like to have a debate about injector design, I suggest you contact an actual expert ( not you or I ). Please feel free to call Scott Williams, the designer of the Genesis II fuel injector for US Rally Team, and he will be happy to talk your head off about injector design and tuning actual race cars.

Scott Williams/ USRT
856-456-3335

Try him in the morning, he is much easier to reach.
 
#457 ·
If you have datalogs when you had your 750's and from the double foggers post them and I will show you with you own data (provided Narmin varied your injector angle). Clearly you didn't read any of the patents I just posted that USRT is trying to mimic but failed fantastically.

#hackish Sorry to drag you into this but do you have any feedback? I kind of wish genjuice was still here to comment as well.
 
#460 ·
No, I didn't read any of your links, I might at some point in the future when I care about how to build injectors.

Please contact Scott Williams at USRT to discuss your concerns. Sorry but the injectors actually work pretty well. What i just want to make clear is that you're just some random guy on the internet to me, and I won't be modifying my injectors just because you think so. If you'd like to try that experiment, buy a set of $630 injectors yourself and dissect them until your heart is content. It ain't happening on my dime. Sorry man but we've pretty much got the injectors 99% figured out, we've even made the idle bog down thing from my last video, about 90% better. The engine runs very well. Other than not initially getting the info I wanted from USRT, which would have made initial setup easier, they work pretty well. I'll have a full review of them up once my Alphaspeed, and then future dyno tune is completed. Sorry but once again, i believe REAL PRACTICAL DATA, not opinions and online theories about injector design. If they suck in the end, you'll know it when I post my review. Until then, discussing anything about modifying the injectors is pointless, because it's not going to happen. I'm not trying to be rude to you, but it's always you derailing my thread. You have to understand, I have no knowledge whatsoever of what your qualifications are for tuning cars, or what cars you've tuned, or really anything. Maybe if you told me what cars you have actually tuned, and showed me videos of your cars running 11's with full reliability, and showed me videos of you actually tuning a Haltech... then i'll start to consider your advice. Until then, i'll trust my tuner! #ALPHASPEED
 
#461 ·
So you're saying patents aren't based on practical data? Enjoy your craptastic single pintle injectors with "fogger nozzles". I will continue to point out all the issues I see with all the weird **** you put in your car so others can use their brain and actually think about it. Enjoy :)
 
#462 ·
Thanks for your opinion, as usual i'll be over here building my car while you're off theorizing about what it's like to go fast.
 
#465 ·
...while simultaneously asking me to have blind faith in you.

Double standard much?

I'll trust my actual tuner, and the company that has 20+ years of rally racing experience that works directly with Bosch to manufacture injectors. I've given you direct contact info to the gentleman that designed these injectors, please contact him with your concerns, since I don't share them.
 
#467 ·
Remember I love you both

If I had a choice, I'd make you both hug each other, but every day I see that dream of mine fade away :(
 
#469 ·
Meh, i dont hate the guy, I just want to keep my build thread on topic. I'm sure we could be friends in real life. Nyangineer can save all of this data and debate for later on when I post a separate review thread for these injectors. At that point it is open forum for debate. After i've been on the dyno, and then actually driven the car for several months I can properly review them. Only at that point will I debate/discuss them with anyone. It's laughable that anyone would ever say I have blind faith in anything. I'm just not that guy. Unlike most people, when I pay for something I do not feel the need to defend it. Quite the opposite, I expect it to f*cking perform since I spent my hard earned money on it.I put up with a lot of BS for my paycheck, and I get really mad when my money is wasted. If it's good I will say it's good, if it's bad I will say it's bad. If it really sucks, then expect a super entertaining thread about it. ( ISC i'm looking at you ). So far I think they've done quite well considering nobody has ever used them on a KDM car before ( I'm literally the first ever, not sure if that's a good thing lol ) and we got them figured out in a weekend while having no information on them at all. The car drives REALLY well other than the occasional idle droop, which we ( you Norman lol )have already mostly tuned out. The car idles more smoothly than my Bosch 750's. You've seen the videos. That droop will be gone by the next time I post a map. So far they have had no problems with the E85. The car feels f*cking great. I don't really have anything else to say about it, the review will be as thorough as all of my other threads and these matters can be discussed at that point. I don't do theory, I do practical. It's that simple. What I wanted to do, is try injectors recommended by a good friend that owns a VW shop and races MK2 GTI's, made by a company with a good racing history and factory backing. I didn't set out to buy something outside the norm, but these things cost exactly the same as DW1200's and only a few bucks more than FIC1100's. Why not try them? I have a Haltech now, if they suck I can just change them at will. Some VW/Audi/BMW guy will buy them off me in 5 seconds flat. No big deal. What I don't need is someone throwing a hundred google links at me and talking about patents and blah blah, when he hasn't even held my injectors in his hands or seen them himself, or has no information or pictures other than what i've given him. That just seems bizarre to me. Not sure what to make of it.

Anyway please nyangineer, you are entitled to have an opinion about whatever you want, and back it up with whatever facts you feel are correct. It doesn't mean I have to do anything that you're asking. I don't know you at all, literally you're an internet character to me. I don't even know what your actual name is. Why would I modify my injectors at your request? When I say i'm definitely not going to do any of that, then please accept it, and move on. There is no point discussing it further. I don't hate or dislike you in any way and i'm sure in person we would get along famously. Your opinion on the injectors has been noted, moving along now..
 
#472 ·
Yeah I actually got a nasty speeding ticket on new years day, while out haltech tuning with Norman. So i feel you guys pain!
 
#473 ·
Oh.. one more thing! I was out tuning with Alphaspeed last night, he has me up over 20psi now!!! The car feels BAD A$$$!!! I'm going to try and get someone from KHARtunerz to ride with me today and shoot a video..
 
#474 ·
Update: My tune is almost complete! We re-did the whole tune basically, starting with the dead times that USRT provided us. Just so you guys have an idea of the type of fuel flow requirements needed fo E85- With these Genesis II injectors, at 19psi on 91 octane my duty cycle was like 27%. On E85 at 22-23psi my duty cycle is around 98% !!!!!! Basically even with 1200's running at 55psi, you'll still max them out long before 25psi.

The car feels amazing now! Really night and day difference than before. I made a video, but that's still on the tune with the old injector dead times, not the new correct ones. I'll have to do another video with the new times:)

A few hours after this video was made, Norman remoted in and re-did the tune for the updated dead times. Car pulls even harder now:)

This video was of course filmed on a closed test course down in Mexico.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKIbH0mNSiM


So here's the thing- I could get even more boost out of this setup by adding a fuel return line. So that may be the next logical step here:) More updates coming soon! I would love to get dynoed right now. The car feels SO STRONG
 
#475 ·
Tisk tisk tisk Kepone....



Why you no use turn signal!!! hahahah

Car sounds wonderful though looks like it pulls VERY strong from the look of your body language! hahaha.

Congrats man. I really want to go E85, but I just don't think I can justify it yet. especially since the Evo doesn't have the luxury of flex fuel tuning... fukers lol.
 
#476 ·
You don't need flex fuel for an evo, your ecu is fully unlocked and can store multiple maps. Just have an e85 map and a 91/93 map. You can have 9 easily selectable maps on your ecu. My friend Jay does it on his Evo X. You will never need a standalone or a flex fuel sensor.
 
#481 ·
Indeed it does. With a 1:1 FPR at the fuel rail.

I wonder why so many newer vehicles are switching to returnless. Will have to read up on it more... Excited to see your continuing progress. :D
 
#482 ·
I'm pretty sure I'm going to do a return line very soon. I want that 30psi life! Is there a DIY on the forum on how do do one already?
 
#483 ·
I can't remember if I've seen a write-up already on it, but I did have a thought you should consider if you decide to do a return line setup:

Use the stock feed line AS the return, and run a new line from the pump to the rail (like a -8 probably) as the new feed. Throw a nice E85 friendly filter on the new line as have yourself some 30psi of fun. :D

Oh, do some research on E85 effects on fuel filters too. There was some scary stuff I came across though I never had issues for myself. Some fuel filters are better than others when used with E85.
 
#486 ·
Correct!

Oh I found this DIY by Ninja 3.8 for doing a fuel return line

http://www.gencoupe.com/engine-drivetrain/95531-diy-fuel-return-line.html

Ninja 3.8 said:
Alright guys, with all the talk of our fuel system lately and my recent install of a return line, I figure its about time for a decent DIY.

I did not take any pictures during my install due to my hands being covered in fuel the majority of the time, but i do have a few post install pictures and permission fromm joseph (cdnsigop) to use his photos. I will also be using a few photos from the vendor AMS.

So thank you to Joseph (Cdnsigop) for the use of his pictures, and to AMS for the pictures in their thread that can be found here

Genesis Forum: GenCoupe Hyundai Genesis Forums - Your Hyundai Genesis Coupe Community

There are a few things you will need before you get started.

Parts:
1 Turbosmart 800 FPR
1 Fuel pressure gauge
1 Factory regulator delete
1 tube of ARP thread sealant
1 fuel rail fitting
1 18 inch length of 3/16 vacuum hose
1 3/16 - 3/16 - 3/16 plastic T vacuum fitting
1 25 ft. roll of 5/16 Id fuel injection hose
1 foot of 5/16 Id submersible fuel hose
4 1/8 npt to 5/16 in. barb fittings
1 90 degree female to female 1/8 npt fitting.
1 female to female -6AN fitting
1 -6AN to 5/16in barb fitting
1 box 10ct. fuel injection clamps
15 to 20 Heavy duty zip ties

Tools:
Phillips head screw driver
Flat head screw driver
10mm socket and ratchet
Small Pocket knife
Utility knife
needle nose pliers





Lets get started shall we...

1. Remove the rear seat and you will find two hatches held down by 6 phillips head screws. The hatch on the drivers side is the one we are interested in. Remove the 8 screws and lift up on the hatch. and unplug the connector on top of the fuel canister.



2. Now crank the car for a few seconds. the car will not start because you have unplugged the fuel pump. The purpose of this is to release any pressure that may be in the fuel lines.

3. Now go back to the rear seat and disconnect the two quick disconnect fuel lines on top of the canister.

4. The canister will now be held in by 8 phillips head bolts. remove these 8 bolts and the fuel sending unit will lift right out of the fuel tank. Make sure you have some rags or paper towels handy here because there will be some fuel that spills out. Once out, this is what you will see.



5. Now I suggest you bring the fuel sending unit inside or to a garage bench or the like to delete the factory regulator.

6. Now we need to remove the top part of the fuel sending unit. to do that you must unclip the electrical connectors circled in red and well as unclip the orange hose circled in red. Once disconnected, lift up on the top half while unclipping each leg from the lower unit and the two halves will separate.



7. Next we need to get rid of the remaining orange plastic hose on the lower unit. I found it easiest to cut this off. you will not be reusing this hose.

8. Now you must separate the outer and inner parts of the lower unit. the inner unit is held in by 4 small tabs. I used a small pocket knife to help pop the inner assembly out.

9. Next we need to replace the factory FPR with our delete piece. In the picture the regulator has already been replaced but otherwise it looks the same. Unclip the circular plastic end circled in red from the sending unit and pull down firmly; the piece in question will slide right off.



10. Now transfer the O-rings from the stock FPR to the new delete piece as shown in the picture.





11. The correct orientation of the new delete piece is shown. Insert the delete piece and slide the plastic piece we removed back into place. clip the circular end back into is place and make sure the regulator delete is snug on both ends.
This is what it should look like once installed.



12. The next step is to cap the factory return port. Make sure that you cap the correct one. Study the picture below well and determine which of the two ports to cap. I made my own cap out of a 3 inch piece of the submersible fuel hose and a spare bolt I had lying around. Cut your piece of hose and secure it over the nipple with a clamp. now find an appropriately sized bolt and insert it into the open end of the hose. Sure the bolt in place with another clamp. make sure that these clamps are tight because you do not want this popping off later.



13. Lets turn our attention now to the upper portion of the sending unit. It is now time to install our new return line. Find yourself a drill bit sized the same diameter as your 1/8 npt barb fittings or use a stepped drill bit like I did. Drill a hole in the location shown in the picture.



14. Insert one of your barb fittings threaded end first up from the bottom of the upper sending unit piece. thread on your 90 degree fitting and make sure that it is tight. You may need to use a washer to help make the seal. Make sure you use your thread sealant here.



15. You can now thread another barb into the open end of the 90 degree fitting. again, use your thread sealant.

16. The last thing you must do to the fuel sending unit is to connect the new barb to the existing port on the lower unit using your submersible fuel hose. It may take a few tries to get the hose the correct length. Push the hose over each barb and secure with a clamp. As always, make sure these clamps are tight!

17. Reconnect the orange hose from the top unit to the lower as well as the two electrical connectors. You can now reconnect the upper and lower halves of the unit. The Fuel sending unit is now ready to go back into the tank! It should look like this.



18. Once back in the tank, reinstall the 8 small bolts and tighten them down. The top of your fuel sending unit should now look like this.



19. Locate your FPR and go ahead and install the two 5/16 hose barbs and your Gauge. I used an electric gauge mounted in my A-pillar pod so I simply screwed in the sender. If you choose to you a traditional mechanical gauge mounted directly to the FPR that is fine as well. You can see an example of this sort of gauge in this picture. (note an AEM FPR is used in the picture below, I used and recommend the turbosmart 800)






20. Now it’s time to mount the new FPR in the engine bay. My Regulator did not come with a bracket so I had to make my own. I chose to make mine out of a strip of aluminum that I purchased at Lowes. I used a dremel to cut it and a concrete curb and a rubber mallet to bend the piece to the proper shape. once shaped I used a metal drill bit to drill holes to mount the FPR to the bracket and the bracket to the intake manifold. you can see the bracket and where it is mounted in this picture.



21. With the FPR mounted it is time to run your new return line. Start by feeding the line out and down from the hatch under the rear seat. Once you get the line out, go underneath the car and pull about 10 feet through. (it is better to pull more than not enough at this point.) Now crawl up to the from of the car and guide the hose up by the factory fuel line and brake lines. (It helps to have a buddy help with this process.) At this point you should connect the hose to the barb on the bottom of your regulator. If not using the turbosmart FPR, just be sure that the hose is connected to the return port on the regulator. Secure the hose with a clamp.



22. Now go back underneath the car and proceed to use heavy duty zip ties to secure your new line to your existing brake lines. These lines run down from the engine bay and run along the drivers side frame rail and then back up to the fuel tank. I used one zip tie every 8 - 12 inches to make sure that is stayed secure. Make every effort during this process to try and be sure that the new rubber line is not the lowest point on the vehicle. In the event that you every bottom out the frame, you don’t want the fuel line taking the brunt of the abrasions and impact.

23. Go back into your car and pull in any excess line. Measure yourself about 4 inches beyond your barb and cut your hose to length. Secure your new return line onto the barb and clamp it tight. The top of the fuel sender should look like this.



24. The last connection left to make is from your fuel rail to your FPR. The first thing you need to do is look at the front of your fuel rail and pull the metal pin holding the plug in. Just grab it with a pair of pliers and pull upwards.



25. Now you can take your pliers and grab hold of the plug in the end of the rail, pull firmly and it will pop right out. You will want some paper towel or a few rags here because the residual fuel in the rail will spill out.



26. With the plug out it is time to fit together the 3 fittings we will use. Use your thread sealant and thread the -6AN barb into one side of the female coupler and the fuel rail fitting into the other. It is very important to make sure these fittings are very tight if you use a swivel type coupler as I did. If the fittings are not tight, fuel will leak out of the middle of the coupler.



27. Now you will need to transfer the O-rings from the factory plug to your new fuel rail fitting. once on, insert the fitting into the rail and replace the metal retainer clip. You may need to bend the metal line circled in red to make clearance for the new line. Don’t be shy here, you won’t hurt it or break it, just gently bend it downwards and you will be fine.



28. You can now measure and cut a length of the remaining fuel hose to go from the fuel rail to the FPR. Slide one end over the barb coming from the fuel rail and secure it with a clamp. Do the same for the other end, slide it over the barb on the FPR and secure with a clamp.



If you are using a traditional mechanical gauge, proceed to step 33. If not here is how to install your new electric fuel pressure gauge.

29. You now need to wire up your new gauge. I find it easiest to cut the plug that goes to the sender off of the harness and then run the wires through the hood release grommet. Once through you can reconnect the wires with weatherproof butt connectors and plug the harness into the sender. (I like to use a little electrical tape as well to make sure the connections are weather tight.)

30. Now return to the cabin and connect your black ground wire to the factory grounding location located on the driver side directly to the left of the clutch pedal. It will be a black bolt, 8 or 10mm, I can’t remember which. You will need a small ring terminal for this.

31. The next step is to find a key on power source. I have a wire run from the engine bay fuse box for this but you can also use an add-a-fuse just as well. I chose to connect the dash lighting wire to the same key on power source because I have no desire to turn off the backlighting.

32. All thats left is to simply plug in your gauge and secure it in the mounting location of your choice.

33. With your gauge installed it is time to test for leaks. Reconnect the plug on top of the fuel sender and proceed to turn the key to the on position but do not crank the motor. Now go and check each connection for leaks. If all is well, go ahead and start the motor. Note that it will take a few cranks to prime the pump and all the lines but it will start eventually.

34. With the motor running, quickly check all 4 of your connections and check for leaks. If you find any leaks, quickly shut off the engine and tend to the problem. Once you think you have it fixed, start the engine again and repeat the process.

35. With any leaks fixed you can shut off the motor and install the boost line to the regulator. Install your plastic T in between the check valve and a new length of tubing. Now you can run the last length of tubing from the FPR nipple to the third barb on the T.

36. You can now set your base fuel pressure. On the turbosmart 800, this is done by simply loosening the nut on top of the Regulator and rotating turning the adjustment screw with an allen wrench. Rotate the screw until you get a base pressure reading of 55psi. If you have the mechanical gauge fixed to the regulator this will be simple, but if your gauge is in the cabin like mine you will either have to run back and forth between the PR and the gauge until you get the correct pressure or have a buddy help you out. Once set, retighten the nut at the base of the adjustment screw.

37. All thats left to do is to replace the hatch and secure it with the 6 screws and replace the back seat.

Edit** After 2 weeks of running the return line I can say it is fantastic! AFR's have never been more consistent. Here is a log showing just how flat they are! Bear in mind that it is running pretty rich in this log due to the BR tune and 550 injectors so I will need to pull a little fuel to dial it in just right but you get the idea!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sling3r
#488 ·
I agree actually. I think I will do the 2013 sender when the time comes.
 
#491 ·
Small update: Not much progress to report, I've been trying to schedule a time to go get my dyno pulls done, maybe that might be in the next week or two. Should finally be able to show you guys how much power the Alphaspeed Remote/Internet tune makes, and I might also have the tuner ( most likely Dardan@Synapse ) do an actual final dyno tune.

One thing I realized is that at these power levels, tires are a problem. I've already burned through the set of Bridgestone Potenza RE760 Sport tires I bought 10 months ago, and the OEM Bridgestones and Sumitomo HTRz2 and HTRz3 lasted less than a year each when I was making 20g power still. All of these tires with a treadwear rating of 350 and below, are just crap when it comes to longevity.This is the " Max Performance Summer Tire" category, they all seem to be 270-340 for the treadwear rating. All of them are great for 6 months, then wear out rapidly after that. Seriously my car is a 2012, and I am about to be on my 5th set of tires already. I don't do burnouts or drag race, this last set of tires saw one track day, only two laps. I even stepped up to a 265 in the rear, and those didn't even last a year. I do drive a lot, and I do drive fast, but this is just pathetic. So for daily driving I am stepping up to a tire with a treadwear rating closer to 500. I decided to try the Hankook S1 Noble 2 since on paper it has the specs I want. I'm ordering 275/35/18 rear, and 245/40/18 front this time. My wheels are currently 18x8.5 and 18x9.5, i'm ordering the 18x11 version of the same wheel, putting that in the back, and moving the 18x9.5 to the front, and removing my 5mm spacers. Hopefully wider tires and much higher treadwear rating will let me get at least 18-24 months out of a set.

In other news, I had the opportunity to do a little photo shoot of some really sick manifolds for the 2.0T. Over at KHARtunerz we got our hands on one of the first Sheepey Manifolds for the 2.0T, which we acquired for Austin AKA D!RTYLOUD. This thing is seriously beautiful.


We also got our hands on one of the new Moceri Fab Works manifolds ( Tim Moceri's company ), which is shockingly 95% as nice as the legendary Sheepey manifold! This one belongs to Nick Lario ( Team KT ) from KHARTunerz, and will be going on his monster Turbonetics GTK-550 build. This manifold can only be purchased through BTR for now.



The craftsmanship is nothing short of excellent on both of these. You just can't find a flaw in either one.


Manifold porn




Each of these manifolds is over $1000 MSRP, I think the Moceri is $1050 and the Sheepey might be a little bit more expensive but final pricing isn't confirmed yet.

I will be doing a separate thread for these today, with a bunch more photos and info.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sling3r and johal
#492 ·
Beautiful manifolds, both of them.

I know what you mean about tires. I put those same Bridgestone Potenza RE760s on my Z06 last year and they're already worn down. :mad:

A tire I really like that has been decent (considering) for traction and has great longevity is the BF Goodrich g-Force Sport COMP-2. I have been using these for several years on a 500+hp FWD car and am very satisfied with the compromise between longevity and traction.

What is the offset of your 18x9.5" rear wheel? I am planning to get a set of rims exactly same (18x8.5, 18x9.5) with 245/40 and 275/40. But wheel fitment is so foreign to me... Anything to look out for with that size combination at stock ride height?
 
#494 ·
I considered those BFG G-Force Sport Comp 2, but ended up going with the Hankook just due to the higher treadwear rating. I'm really shocked at how quickly this car eats up tires. If these Hankook's don't last, I will try those BFG's next.

My current rear wheel is a 18x9.5 ET15, and I use a 5mm spacer for a final ET of +10. With my 265 tire and the spacer, i'm still not quite flush with the fender. The new 18x11 is an ET25
 
  • Like
Reactions: darkvader0
#495 ·
ugh i have the BFGs on my evo now and hate them! the sidewalls are way to soft.. im jusy gonna over inflate them to wear them quicker lol
 
#496 ·
Oh wow you can go nuts with the offset with 8.5/9.5. I was planning on +35/+30 offsets front and rear. I do NOT want a "stretched" tire and am not interested in "stance" or "flush," but may have to rethink the offset thing. This is the first time I have looked into non OEM wheels so it's a learning experience for me.

Have never tried Hankooks. I'll be looking for your opinion of them. The g-Force Sports have treated me well, but I should mention what matters to me to qualify my opinion: Extreme acceleration :)D), "Spirited cornering" (but not ragged edge), and ride comfort/low noise along with treadwear longevity. Those are my tire selection criteria.

I have had my '14 R-Spec for a little less than a year now and 10,000mi. The OEM tires are shot!
 
#497 ·
I have had my '14 R-Spec for a little less than a year now and 10,000mi. The OEM tires are shot!
I feel like cars come with the shittiest tires! The manufacturer picks the ones that are expensive, but don't last worth a crap.
I can't wait to get rid of these Bridgestones...
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top