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#21 | ||
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Senior Member
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![]() ![]() Huge word of advice make sure you use lock-washers for the three sides of the manifold-to-turbo bolts..and the corner that is just a tubo stud with nut you just gotta tighten up really good and secure it with locktite.....the first time i put the prototype manifold on i used cheap nuts and bolts and it cam loose on me and i had a big exhaust leak so i took it apart last saturday and reassembled it.....defiantly worth doing the job right the first time!
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BUILT ENGINE MODS: Every bolt on available from the ground up. Stage 5 coming soon.... Already in: Haltech, DW300 fuel pump, Aeromotive FPR/ Return fuel system, Stage 4 clutch, BR Exhaust Manifold, Holset HX35, Precision 39mm WG, Grimmspeed EBCM, Tomei Poncam/valve springs, Cosworth 1.1mm HG, Elite Intake Manifold, Mishimoto rad hoses, CF snorkel. On the way: Megan racing trans mount, CPE Mounts |
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#23 | ||
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Banned
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: San Juan Puerto Rico
Posts: 803
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I just started a tread with this topic, so I'll ask the question here: once you install your beautiful exhaust manifold, which even if it doesn't give 0.001hp gain I still like it, are there any issues with heat? I see the oem manifold has a fairly adequate heat shield and I assume you lose it with this manifold. I already asked this question since after changing the O2 housing I lost 2 of the bolts that hold up the turbo heat shield. The turbo heat shield now seems to have a little metal to metal rattle of its own on lower rpm's, at least I cannot hear it above that.
I have no clue as to how much heat an unshielded turbo puts out. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#24 | ||
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Senior Member
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Yes, your going to want to make sure and wrap your rank case oil vent lines that are sitting up on the manifold.....i could have prevented my engine catching on fire but i put it off for far to long and then my lines got too hot when i was racing and they burst open....so do yourself a huge favor and wrap those lines with fiberglass or something like it.
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BUILT ENGINE MODS: Every bolt on available from the ground up. Stage 5 coming soon.... Already in: Haltech, DW300 fuel pump, Aeromotive FPR/ Return fuel system, Stage 4 clutch, BR Exhaust Manifold, Holset HX35, Precision 39mm WG, Grimmspeed EBCM, Tomei Poncam/valve springs, Cosworth 1.1mm HG, Elite Intake Manifold, Mishimoto rad hoses, CF snorkel. On the way: Megan racing trans mount, CPE Mounts |
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#25 | ||
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Banned
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: San Juan Puerto Rico
Posts: 803
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![]() ![]() Now that we see how I started, do you wrap the oil vent lines or do you wrap the exhaust tubes? What I understand is you wrap the exhaust tubes for 2 reasons: 1. your engine components don"t catch on fire. 2. Hot gases flow faster and therefore you make more power. Are you suggesting to wrap the oil lines instead ??? ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#27 | |||
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: The "O" in OC
Posts: 382
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Quote:
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk Last edited by ZakRabbit; 01-28-2012 at 08:02 AM. |
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#29 | |||
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Jedi Master
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Bergen County NJ
Posts: 5,540
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adapters are normally become the weak point, there are a few companys that make cast adapters, giving you more strength. As for tubular manifold, cracking is the reason why you don't buy cheap, also to consider you can cryo treatment for metal work, it removes weak points in the metal to give it a uniform strength. then theres thermal coating, something like Zircotic would keep masize amount of heat in.
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I am not a list of mods but what i know and share: http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t/94778-fuel-system-what-you-need-know.html http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t/86146-wastegate-101-a.html http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t/91199-compressor-maps-how-read-them.html Fav. JT Quote Quote:
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