Why you NEED a catch-can - Page 5 - Hyundai Genesis Forum
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post #81 of 626 Old 12-06-2011, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Snoopy0812 View Post
You answered your own question really. Some feel it's better to run two but on the 2.0T it's not really needed because the crank case vent doesn't really blow a lot of stuff out of it..
I believe you are incorrect. I have both AGP cans and they both get full after <2000 miles. If I don't empty the passenger side one, it spews oil all over the electrical box. There is considerably less on the passenger side compared to the driver side can, but it's still there and was prevented from going into the fmic and piping.

I've been to a few shows where there are quite a few 2.0T and the ones that put the breather filter directly on the valve cover have oil dripping down the side of the motor and onto the turbo heat shield.

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post #82 of 626 Old 12-06-2011, 03:29 PM
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great thread Snoop. I'm in for all the goodies! xD

'11 2.0T R-Spec KW
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post #83 of 626 Old 12-06-2011, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delta9 View Post
I believe you are incorrect. I have both AGP cans and they both get full after <2000 miles. If I don't empty the passenger side one, it spews oil all over the electrical box. There is considerably less on the passenger side compared to the driver side can, but it's still there and was prevented from going into the fmic and piping.

I've been to a few shows where there are quite a few 2.0T and the ones that put the breather filter directly on the valve cover have oil dripping down the side of the motor and onto the turbo heat shield.
Then something is wrong with your car. It shouldn't be filling up the crank case vent that quickly.
I ran clear lines for months to figure out which side needed the most love and I get maybe a tablespoon of straight oil out of my crank case vent after 500kms. Out of the PCV valve I get condensation, oil and fuel and about 4oz every 500kms, majority of it condensation because of my climate.

I ran a breather direct to the crank case vent for a small while and it also "bleed" too, that's just because the vapors are too heavy to pass through the filter and when they condensate they weep.

Other GC's I've worked with have had similar results.

Fact is, the setup was designed for the crank case to have vacuum on it all the time, hence it's connected pre-turbo, letting it breathe is against it's OE design. For all we know it's needed to have vacuum on it to help make the oil injectors work correctly and you won't find out otherwise until you cook something and start seeing bearing material in your oil samples.
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post #84 of 626 Old 12-07-2011, 12:25 PM
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I just emptied my catch cans for the first time today. They're ebay cans with a breather filter setup on the passanger side. They've been on for about 3500 mi and this is what came out looks like about half a cup,

There was more than that but being my usual impatient self some of it spilled on to the fuse box. The oil that came out of it smelled like gasoline. Definitely worth the money though.

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post #85 of 626 Old 12-07-2011, 02:44 PM
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im at 4000kms since i last emptied mine and i can already see its over half full ... will post a pic when i do a oil change

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Yes, keep it classy ...... Just speed if you need to sh*t or piss!
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post #86 of 626 Old 12-10-2011, 07:15 PM
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Installed my wpn-r 24oz catch can today with your video as reference. You've been a great help.

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post #87 of 626 Old 12-11-2011, 10:49 AM
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~4000km

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Originally Posted by RKBK2.0 View Post
Yes, keep it classy ...... Just speed if you need to sh*t or piss!
2010 Genesis Coupe 2.0T-LOOK FAST
2003 Suzuki GSX-R 600-GO FAST
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post #88 of 626 Old 12-14-2011, 11:19 PM
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Great thread. Thanks for the DIY video too.

More owner photos of their engine bays with ccans installed would be cool
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post #89 of 626 Old 12-15-2011, 07:28 AM
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post #90 of 626 Old 12-15-2011, 08:30 AM Thread Starter
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@Subversion
That stain on your cam chain cover is due to a faulty gasket. Make sure your bolts are tight too.

I had the same stain and that's what the problem was.
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post #91 of 626 Old 12-15-2011, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoopy0812 View Post
@Subversion
That stain on your cam chain cover is due to a faulty gasket. Make sure your bolts are tight too.

I had the same stain and that's what the problem was.
Yeah I noticed it at about 9k miles (18k now) and I wiped it dry, drove it for a bit, then checked it again. Its been dry ever since, but the stain remains. Im hesitant to take it in on warranty because its been modified... but I've only done bolt-ons. I just figured they'd tell me to take a hike.
And given my level of experience, im not sure I should be cracking it open myself...



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post #92 of 626 Old 12-15-2011, 09:00 AM
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^^ Plastidip it!!

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post #93 of 626 Old 12-15-2011, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by azgencoup View Post
damn thats nasty in the first pic it looks like its mixed with water!!! noob question N/A motors dont need this right?
Yes, they do.

I took a stab last week at the DIY catch can. I first used a can of Monster (mop water) Energy drink. I cut the top at the start of the taper and I cut the top off where the tab is. The idea was to now take my "funnel" and insert back into the can with the taper facing the bottom. So I basically flipped it. The idea was that the funnel would hold the filtering material while the oil dripped to the bottom.

I took a second can and cut it in half. I then cut a seam length wise so that the two sides can overlap when the can is placed over the first can like a sleeve.

I drilled a hole on the top of the catch-can, which is the bottom of the second can. This hole is the exhaust of the gases. I drilled another hole on the bottom of the first can. This is the oil drain hole. I holes on the side of the now catch-can looking object. This one is the intake of the oil/gas mix. Then I drilled two more holes on the side of the can, in-line, near the top and near the bottom. This will be used as an oil level gauge.

I used two 3/8" barbed fittings for the intake and exhaust. I used two 1/8"-1/4" 90degree elbows NPT-compression fittings for the gauge, which is going to have a clear tube between the fittings so I can see the oil level. Finally, I used a 3/8" plug on the bottom as the drain plug.

I then took my monstrocity, and armed with my brazzing rods and map gas torch I was ready to braze all the joints together.

I would like to point out that this is my second attempt at brazing aluminum cans. The first was rather fail. And I was soon going to discover that my first failed attempt would not be my last.

I basically melted all the cans and made a big globb of solder. FAIL!!

Fortunately, I had an aluminium water bottle, which I cut the bottom out of so I could stuff all three little scrub pads of stainless steel scrubbing pads. Long story short, I burned a hole in it........

I still don't have a catch can.

I wrote this for the folks that are DIY'ers and want to try a "simple" project. Its was fun, although I messed it all up. It's a great little project to introduce yourself to the DIY world since the materials are super cheap. You don't have to braze the things together since JB Weld is a very acceptable method also. Then Krylon the thing flat-black or what ever.

It's also a very old DIY. Starting from the days of rat-rods, who would use beer cans, puffing smoke all over the place.

I invite you to youtube catch-cans and research the subject.

This is what I tried to do.

www.aaronreedbaker.com DIY oil catch can

Thanks for posting this Snoop.

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Last edited by jaov2k; 12-15-2011 at 11:22 AM.
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post #94 of 626 Old 12-17-2011, 04:22 AM
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Just ordered a Mishimoto CC off Amazon. $80 shipped, if you are a prime member,

Amazon Mishimoto oil catch can Amazon Mishimoto oil catch can
Amazon (Links)Amazon (Links)

Thanks once again to Snoopy (and all the others) for the great info. Install pending delivery...

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post #95 of 626 Old 12-20-2011, 12:20 AM Thread Starter
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Can a mod move the following diagrams under the How to Install header?


Last edited by Snoopy0812; 02-07-2012 at 11:46 PM.
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post #96 of 626 Old 12-20-2011, 07:19 AM
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Snoop, your a dedicated soldier!

New questions: (feel free to be brief...)
-- The best setup for the 2.0T is last diagram; "Dual Catch Can"?
-- I read this DIY and saw your video. You mentioend the PCV valve. Can we remove that, or what was that all about?
--Is the check-valve in the last diagram already "in place" or is that something I need to install?

Thanks for all you do brother!

2012 Genesis Coupe 2.0T M/T - Tsukuba Red
- BTRcc bolt-on ECU & flash with 1-to-1
- Dynojet: 250 whp / 304 ft-lb tq
- Competition Clutch stage-2 kit with SMF
- PRW FMIC & Piping kit
- CP-E HFC DP & CP-E cat-back exhaust
- CP-E differential mounts
- ATQ short-shifter, bearings, and knob
- Megan Racing transmission mount
- K&N Typhoon SRI; Forge BOV
- PLX DM-100 Gauge & AFR Module
- Saikou Michi Catch-Cans; Redline MT-90 & 75W90
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post #97 of 626 Old 12-20-2011, 07:52 AM
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That check valve could be the PCV valve if it was moved to the side of the can that goes to the IM.

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post #98 of 626 Old 12-20-2011, 10:54 AM
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I know that the stock hose between the crankcase vent and the intake has a check valve. Would we not need one in the dual can setup too?

2010 Silverstone 2.0T Premium
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post #99 of 626 Old 12-20-2011, 11:00 AM
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^^^ That's the PCV valve.

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post #100 of 626 Old 12-20-2011, 03:54 PM
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why cant you just use one?
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