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#1 Old 02-21-2012, 09:21 AM
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engine oil 10w40 recommended from hyundai

I was at the dealership today to change my engine oil and when I told the service guy I brought my own oil he told me hyundai recently changed recommended oil to 10w40 synthetic

I told him ill use the one I brought today (5w30) and start using 10w40 next time

anyone have more info on this?
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#2 Old 02-21-2012, 09:31 AM
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All I know is I just tried 0w-40 for the first time and I think the car likes it much more than 5w-20 and probably 5w-30 as well. I hear less valvetrain noise and it seems to run smoother. Havent heard anything about the change in recommendation though. I think its strange they would change the recommendation when 5w-20 is printed on your freaking engine anyway...

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#3 Old 02-21-2012, 10:22 AM
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So what will be the best oil for cars with modifications and tunes

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#4 Old 02-21-2012, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by edman24 View Post
all i know is i just tried 0w-40 for the first time and i think the car likes it much more than 5w-20 and probably 5w-30 as well. I hear less valvetrain noise and it seems to run smoother. Havent heard anything about the change in recommendation though. I think its strange they would change the recommendation when 5w-20 is printed on your freaking engine anyway...
0w40 ftw
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#5 Old 02-21-2012, 10:37 AM
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Recommended oil for your vehicle is;
5w-20,30 or 40.
regular, semi-syn or full syn.

Not 10w-40. Check your owners manual, that's all you need to know. Using the wrong grade can actually cost you your engine warranty believe it or not.

Also, your service advisor should know better than to be suggesting anything outside of recommended guidelines set by Hyundai.
Refer to TSB 09-EM-003.

Also your service intervals are as follows; (2.0 TCI)
Normal usage; Replace initial 3,000 miles or 6 months, and every 4,800 miles or 6 months thereafter
Severe usage; Replace every 3,000 miles or 3 months (if you drive like a jack ass or on a track)

(3.8)
Normal usage; Replace every 7,500 miles or 12 months
Severe usage; Replace every 3,750 miles or 6 months

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#6 Old 02-21-2012, 10:38 AM
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I going to Mobile One 0w40 next time. Cheap at WalMart, $6.50 a quart same as all the other Mobil One products. Too bad you can't get it in the 5 quart jug.

I would not use a 10wX oil unless I lived in the south and never saw below freezing temps.

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#7 Old 02-21-2012, 10:38 AM
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I would like to see a Hyundai TSB on that oil recommendation. 10w-x is too thick in my view for a modern engine during start up. Typically, you want the first number to be as low as you obtain. The second number is more debatable and the comment "less valve train noise" is a very positive one. The 20 weight is recommended for mileage. I was running 5w-30 this summer and 5w-20 over the winter now. I run synthetic blend because I change the oil and filter every 3k per the 2.0T TSB regarding severe service intervals. Synthetic is a bit pricey for that. If there is a change I would expect this would be made official and I would like to see it.

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#8 Old 02-21-2012, 10:43 AM
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Even in the South, 0W40 is the best option for just about any car. I live in South Florida, been using M1 0W40 for all of my vehicles for many years, including track cars in the past. It will protect your engine best when hot and when cold, in just about any application or situation.

You will never have your warranty voided for using a different grade of oil, you can have your warrant voided for using regular instead of synthetic oil in a forced induction car.

It's safe to not change your synthetic oil for 7500 miles in a turbocharged car, or over 10k miles in a naturally aspirated car.

Most synthetic oils will only just be getting into their optimal protection range at 4-5k miles, after that point they protect better than fresh new oil for a few thousand miles. You might actually be hurting your engine by changing the oil so frequently ( well hurting is a strong word, protecting less is the correct term )
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#9 Old 02-21-2012, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TsukubaRed_PA View Post
I would like to see a Hyundai TSB on that oil recommendation. 10w-x is too thick in my view for a modern engine during start up. Typically, you want the first number to be as low as you obtain. The second number is more debatable and the comment "less valve train noise" is a very positive one. The 20 weight is recommended for mileage. I was running 5w-30 this summer and 5w-20 over the winter now. I run synthetic blend because I change the oil and filter every 3k per the 2.0T TSB regarding severe service intervals. Synthetic is a bit pricey for that. If there is a change I would expect this would be made official and I would like to see it.
There is a change, TSB 09-EM-003. See above.

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#10 Old 02-21-2012, 12:01 PM
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Most synthetic oils will only just be getting into their optimal protection range at 4-5k miles, after that point they protect better than fresh new oil for a few thousand miles. You might actually be hurting your engine by changing the oil so frequently ( well hurting is a strong word, protecting less is the correct term )

Where in the helle did this ever come from?

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#11 Old 02-21-2012, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rickt View Post
Most synthetic oils will only just be getting into their optimal protection range at 4-5k miles, after that point they protect better than fresh new oil for a few thousand miles. You might actually be hurting your engine by changing the oil so frequently ( well hurting is a strong word, protecting less is the correct term )

Where in the helle did this ever come from?
When you stop believing in media hype and oil company/dealership sales tactics and start to do some actual research on the matter, the truth is easy to find.

Stop Changing Your Oil - Edmunds.com

http://www.skepticblog.org/2009/02/22/oilchange-rant/

http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm#Migraines

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#12 Old 02-21-2012, 12:44 PM
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Also your service intervals are as follows; (2.0 TCI)
Normal usage; Replace initial 3,000 miles or 6 months, and every 4,800 miles or 6 months thereafter
Severe usage; Replace every 3,000 miles or 3 months (if you drive like a jack ass or on a track)

(3.8)
Normal usage; Replace every 7,500 miles or 12 months
Severe usage; Replace every 3,750 miles or 6 months
Only the turbo has a short oil change interval.. the 3.8 goes the distance! My parents smartcar gets it's oil changed every 10,000miles that's just over 16,000km's.. thats a very long time for my parents.. but it'll get changed on the 1-year mark which is their secondary condition.
Fact though... turbos litterally cook oil.. ours are not so bad because they're water cooled too but its still usually at the higher end of most oils temperature ratings.

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#13 Old 02-21-2012, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by rickt View Post
Most synthetic oils will only just be getting into their optimal protection range at 4-5k miles, after that point they protect better than fresh new oil for a few thousand miles. You might actually be hurting your engine by changing the oil so frequently ( well hurting is a strong word, protecting less is the correct term )

Where in the helle did this ever come from?
^^I'd like to see that actually..

I always used 5w-30 full synthetic since the car had 1200miles. 5-20W is piss thin, it's also the oil recommended for most new N/A cars....Which is dumb IMHO.

The 5w-30 is a bit better hold up better in the long run, but I was still able to completely break down a fresh oil change with about 15 minutes of lapping. Again this was 5w-30 full synthetic oil (Pennzoil Platinum). The car overheated and all that.

Switching to Redline full synthetic 5w-40 from now on, and next step if this doesn't help is GULF 10-40W competition oil, but that's 100$ for 5L.

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But from the very biased opinion of a pissed off owner, SPEC can lick my balls...
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#14 Old 02-21-2012, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Snoopy0812 View Post
Only the turbo has a short oil change interval.. the 3.8 goes the distance! My parents smartcar gets it's oil changed every 10,000miles that's just over 16,000km's.. thats a very long time for my parents.. but it'll get changed on the 1-year mark which is their secondary condition.
Fact though... turbos litterally cook oil.. ours are not so bad because they're water cooled too but its still usually at the higher end of most oils temperature ratings.
^^This. Plain and simple. The OEM snail gets so freaking hot, it's not even funny, I did a blast drive last Year with My stage 2 setup, 10-12 minutes WOT kinda thing, when we got home, the snail was glowing red very brightly, and kept on glowing for the better part of the next 20 minutes, and you can hear stuff getting cooked in there....

The problem is this. If you go past the oil's recommended heat range for an extended period of time, the oil will break down rapidly, thus the need for quicker changes.

Edit: I'm doing my spring fluid change in a couple weeks, i'll have the oil analyzed and we'll see how it fared against BR's Stage 3 Turbo after 3500 miles.

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But from the very biased opinion of a pissed off owner, SPEC can lick my balls...
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#15 Old 02-21-2012, 01:12 PM
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Hey from a pure physics and thermodynamics standpoint, the turbo isn't going to get any hotter after 5 minutes of hard runs vs 30 minutes, it's not going to cook your oil any differently. For example, if you hold a flame against a piece of metal for 5 minutes vs 30 minutes, the final temperature will be the same ( equal to or less than the source of the heat ). Lots of other cars use turbos too, and it's also safe to run synthetic on them for 6k miles+

Use good synthetic, nothing Pennzoil makes is remotely acceptable for track racing, just about everything Mobil 1 makes is just fine.

How thick or thin an oil is when it's cold has approximately 0.0 to do with how well it protects your engine, don't ever believe that myth. Black oil does not mean your oil has gone bad. Synthetic detergent oil is designed to trap soot and suspend it within oil, the oil does not lose it's effectiveness until there is no more space to suspend the soot, and everything left over begins to form sludge.Your oil should look dark brown or black after a couple thousand miles, that means it is working-It does not mean the oil needs to be changed.

To quote a friend from the miata forums-

"M1 0w40 is the crown jewel of the XOM automotive oils. It meets more specs than any other oil made by any company. It is the only oil to meet both MB223.5 and Porsche at the same time. For long usage (10-30k) and high performance, there is no other oil in the XOM line that will do as well."

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#16 Old 02-21-2012, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by DarKYiNe View Post
I was at the dealership today to change my engine oil and when I told the service guy I brought my own oil he told me hyundai recently changed recommended oil to 10w40 synthetic

I told him ill use the one I brought today (5w30) and start using 10w40 next time

anyone have more info on this?
I haven't heard anything about synthetic or 10w40 being recommended by Hyundai. I do however recommend synthetic oil if you like to space your oil changes further apart or drive hard. I would not recommend 10w40, but 5w30 seems best suited for most climates & driving conditions.

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#17 Old 02-21-2012, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by kepone View Post
Hey from a pure physics and thermodynamics standpoint, the turbo isn't going to get any hotter after 5 minutes of hard runs vs 30 minutes, it's not going to cook your oil any differently. For example, if you hold a flame against a piece of metal for 5 minutes vs 30 minutes, the final temperature will be the same ( equal to or less than the source of the heat ). Lots of other cars use turbos too, and it's also safe to run synthetic on them for 6k miles+

Use good synthetic, nothing Pennzoil makes is remotely acceptable for track racing, just about everything Mobil 1 makes is just fine.

How thick or thin an oil is when it's cold has approximately 0.0 to do with how well it protects your engine, don't ever believe that myth. Black oil does not mean your oil has gone bad. Synthetic detergent oil is designed to trap soot and suspend it within oil, the oil does not lose it's effectiveness until there is no more space to suspend the soot, and everything left over begins to form sludge.Your oil should look dark brown or black after a couple thousand miles, that means it is working-It does not mean the oil needs to be changed.
Ok, first off your example about the metal not getting hotter after 5 or 30 minutes makes no sense, you are talking about absolute parameters, like if the cast iron the Exhaust side is made of will get hot enough to be glowing red after only 5 seconds of hard driving?!

Take a gas torch, hold it for 5 minutes on the turbo then check temps, then leave it on there for 3 hours, I can garan-fuc'king-ty you it will be hotter after 3 hours.

Also, just to let you know, I use the car for semi-light track use, nothing the 24 hours of Lemans. I won't be putting 100$ oil in there so I can change it after a track session anyways right?

And lastly, please brush up on your oil brands/type, because your Mobil 1 fanboy-ism might take a beating if you check all the latest independent testings.

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But from the very biased opinion of a pissed off owner, SPEC can lick my balls...
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#18 Old 02-21-2012, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Mcmonopoly View Post
Ok, first off your example about the metal not getting hotter after 5 or 30 minutes makes no sense, you are talking about absolute parameters, like if the cast iron the Exhaust side is made of will get hot enough to be glowing red after only 5 seconds of hard driving?!

Take a gas torch, hold it for 5 minutes on the turbo then check temps, then leave it on there for 3 hours, I can garan-fuc'king-ty you it will be hotter after 3 hours.

Also, just to let you know, I use the car for semi-light track use, nothing the 24 hours of Lemans. I won't be putting 100$ oil in there so I can change it after a track session anyways right?

And lastly, please brush up on your oil brands/type, because your Mobil 1 fanboy-ism might take a beating if you check all the latest independent testings.
OK lol, i don't even know where to start with your post-

First off- No matter what you do, the engine components will always be equal to or less hot than whatever the source of the heat is. In this instance, the source of the heat is the combustion chambers. It does not matter how long you run the engine for, it is physcally impossible for anything else to be hotter than the source. This is a simple law of thermodynamics. The only thing that will be hotter is the other components whatever you are measuring is connected to, heat is energy and it will spread to everything it touches, but nothing will ever become hotter than the source. The oil is good enough to withstand coating your piston walls during combustion, why would you think it would not stand up to your turbo which runs at a lower temp than the inside f the combustion chamber? The exhaust gasses do pick up a bit of heat due to being compressed within the turbo, but it's still not as hot as the combustion chamber

Secondly,I have tracked multiple cars on M1 oW40, heavy and light track use, it works flawlessly all the time in all vehicles, and it is made to a higher standard than all other M1 oils. I also run it in my gencoupe.


Third, I do not care what brand of oil you run, or who you are or where you work or what your personal track experience is. Mobil 1 0W40 is near the very best synthetic motor oil ever made. Independent studies verify this over and over. It's leagues better than Redline, amsoil, royal purple. It does meet and exceed more oil standards than any other oil from any other company.

Just read through this thread, stop assuming and start applying some fact.
What oil do you use? - MX-5 Miata Forum


That's all. Believe whatever you want. I'm going to stick to, and continue to recommend, what I know works best. I really don't have the time to get into a pissing match with anyone about this. Read the links I posted, and draw your own conclusions. All I can do is inform, can't force you to understand

Thanks
Z

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#19 Old 02-21-2012, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by TsukubaRed_PA View Post
I would like to see a Hyundai TSB on that oil recommendation. 10w-x is too thick in my view for a modern engine during start up. Typically, you want the first number to be as low as you obtain. The second number is more debatable and the comment "less valve train noise" is a very positive one. The 20 weight is recommended for mileage. I was running 5w-30 this summer and 5w-20 over the winter now. I run synthetic blend because I change the oil and filter every 3k per the 2.0T TSB regarding severe service intervals. Synthetic is a bit pricey for that. If there is a change I would expect this would be made official and I would like to see it.
So why are you using different hot weight with the same winter weight. it's not changing viscosity until 100*C so... doesn't make sense. that's pointless.
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#20 Old 02-21-2012, 02:15 PM
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It is continuously changing viscosity. The 100C benchmark is what the viscosity is at that temp.

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