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Old 04-21-2012, 12:43 PM   #1
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Default 2013 2.0T base model- how to break in properly?

Getting it factory ordered, not sure how long it would take.
This is my first manual car and I was wondering the break in steps for the car. Am I going to f* **** up if I keep stalling ?

Thanks!
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Old 04-21-2012, 06:31 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMXZaku View Post
Getting it factory ordered, not sure how long it would take.
This is my first manual car and I was wondering the break in steps for the car. Am I going to f* **** up if I keep stalling ?

Thanks!
I waited 6 weeks, but im on the east coast, if that helps any....

no high revs (800 below red line is fine) [just not a lot], but dont be a woman, beat on it from a start and alter your rpms constantly. Easier with a manual, keep your rpms between 2k and 4k as much as possible. Since your new with a stick, just wait until you hit at least 3k before going up a gear.

Good luck, the wait was like slow death for me..
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Old 04-22-2012, 07:29 AM   #3
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read the owner's manual.
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Old 04-22-2012, 10:35 AM   #4
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Try not to exceed 5K rpm
Change the oil between the first 1K to 1.5K miles
Don't floor it, but give it a fair amount of gas, you don't want to baby it to much
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Old 04-22-2012, 11:42 AM   #5
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Ive been ripping on mine since 300miles. At that point clutch and turbo are broken in. Engine is usually run for a bit before it leaves the factory. So mostly all of the metal shavings your worried about in the engine will be gone. Take a look during your first oil change..or ask the mechanic if your not doing it your self.
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Old 04-22-2012, 05:36 PM   #6
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Old 04-22-2012, 05:45 PM   #7
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Hyundai does not require any special break in procedures, and is ready to run out of the box.



That said here is how I break in my motors (by far the best way to break in any motor.):


1.) Beat the snot out of it on the dyno for 3-5 min.

2.) Change oil (dino oil)

3.) Beat the snot out of it on the dyno for 5-10 min.

4.) Change oil (dino oil)

5.) Beat the snot out of it on the dyno for 10 min.

5.) Change oil, transmission fluid, and rear diff oil to synthetic oils


The rings & bearings should be fully bedded, and the motor is all broken in. Enjoy.
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Old 04-22-2012, 08:18 PM   #8
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cool I will follow the break-in process, just hope I don't rev over 4k since this is my first manual car!
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Old 04-22-2012, 09:24 PM   #9
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Quote:
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cool I will follow the break-in process, just hope I don't rev over 4k since this is my first manual car!
'


Don't worry about it, as it says right in your manual, no special break period is required.
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Old 04-25-2012, 05:28 PM   #10
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Quote:
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cool I will follow the break-in process, just hope I don't rev over 4k since this is my first manual car!
Even if you do its not a biiig deal. I just passed 1000km's on mine 2 days ago i kept it between 2-4k most of the time. In first gear its not hard to go over 4k. I also didnt maintain a constant speed. Kept slowing and speeding up lol by 5-10km/hr
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Old 04-28-2012, 04:38 PM   #11
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as soon as you drive it off the dealer search for an empty stretch of road and do this


break in complete
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Old 04-28-2012, 09:39 PM   #12
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I did that today, the car bogged down. when I tried to stay on the brake.
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Old 04-28-2012, 09:44 PM   #13
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you sure your oil pressure was above 160?
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Old 04-28-2012, 09:51 PM   #14
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100% I warmed it up and was driving for about 25 min or so.. went to an empty industrial park and did it in the wet...raining here in philly. Clutch drops from 5500rpm, quickly engage the break and it spun for a few seconds and then winded down...kind of bogged down. stability and traction both off.
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Old 04-28-2012, 09:54 PM   #15
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is this limp mode then, cause i get this sometimes when i press on it. lol
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Old 04-28-2012, 10:00 PM   #16
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There would have to be a reason for limp mode to turn on..and usually its accompanied by a CEL
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Old 04-28-2012, 10:58 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fpej20t View Post
100% I warmed it up and was driving for about 25 min or so.. went to an empty industrial park and did it in the wet...raining here in philly. Clutch drops from 5500rpm, quickly engage the break and it spun for a few seconds and then winded down...kind of bogged down. stability and traction both off.
yea, you can't brake boost on this car either
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Old 04-29-2012, 12:42 PM   #18
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ive always been a fan of hard break ins
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Old 04-29-2012, 07:36 PM   #19
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yea, you can't brake boost on this car either
Then how was that video possible?
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Old 04-30-2012, 07:03 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fpej20t View Post
100% I warmed it up and was driving for about 25 min or so.. went to an empty industrial park and did it in the wet...raining here in philly. Clutch drops from 5500rpm, quickly engage the break and it spun for a few seconds and then winded down...kind of bogged down. stability and traction both off.
Did you completely turn off stability control? You have to hold the traction control button down for @ 10 seconds.

The display will say "traction and stability control disabled", and that point you can do burn outs, brake boost, etc. (not to mention dyno runs).

Cheers
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