Beven

What is the price you get the Royal Purple from and where do you get it?

As far as filters looks like the dealer is the best option. Did some searching and it looks like fram might make one for our car, but not sure if it will actually work because the part numbers got confusing.

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2010 Acqua Minerale Blue 3.8L GT MT
Mods:
Injen CAI & Superlux Tails

Previous cars:
2007 Mazda6 S 3.0L V6 AT
1995 Chevy Corsica 2.2L I4 AT

 

chris@vtengineering

No fram!

Seraph0503

filters from dealer only cost $4. and once you change a filter you won't want to pay more than that.

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3.8 6M Track
****************
RRM Lightweight pulley
RRM NSPP
INJEN CAI

AKGC

Color of oil doesn't mean anything unless its darkness BLACK, or has a milky look to it.

black oil means oil needs to be changed,
Milky look means you have moisture or coolant is getting into the oil somehow.

If anything staining metal is a better indicator of better oil.... if its relatively new.
Oil is suppose to penetrate into metals for better adhesion for lubrication.








STAY AWAY FROM FRAM FLITER.

The inner filter cone sides are held in place with rubber/silicone, unlike the metal ones show. under too much pressure, it compresses the filter element.

This is from I guy I know that had a RB26

Red Raspberry

Just because the oil is black does not mean it needs changed.

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2010 Red 2.0L track

Mchart

I got it for like 7 bucks a quart at my local O'Reilly's.

I can't reccomend Mobil-1 anymore. A few years back they started putting in lower-rated stock in their products - Unless you buy the european formula. (Like many other companies) Royal purple, AMSOIL, Redline, etc.. Are all using the higher quality stock. I simply don't purchase AMSOIL and Redline because of the fact that they are quite expensive, and you can't pickup either at auto stores like O'Reilly's.

AKGC

In general yes, but most don't really notice it until it develops into sludge (thick and chunky). Which you notice because of the big black lumps.

And that black stuff is carbon. There is a point when the friction modifiers can inhibit the coarseness of billions of tiny carbon particles from acting like sand, where lubrication is needed most.

Some may say, "Hey, what about the filter?".
Thats a good point. The filter will only filter so much stuff before it gets clogged, then the bypass valve opens, letting unfiltered oil circulate through the system. Engineers put this in place, because having dirty oil running through the system is better than no oil.

Wasn't the case for most cars designed 80s. filter gets clogged, engine go boom

Red Raspberry

You will find a direct correlation to WOT use and the blackness of your oil. If a diesel motor can go for 20k miles on oil that is completely black then the tiny carbon particles are not a problem for a car that gets it's oil changed at 3-5k intervals.

Have you ever had an oil analysis done? On most of my cars the oil is black by 1000 miles. Yet when tested at 5k I have never had one say the oil was dirty enough to change when using synthetic.

And oil filters have had bypass filter for as long as I can remember and that goes back to the 70s. Since the 80s oil has gone through tremendous improvements. Even since the GC has come out there is another upgrade in the oil with a G4 rating now.

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2010 Red 2.0L track

chemwarrior

I use Mobil 1 synthetic because that's what I used in my Evo, which was recommended by Mitsubishi and had zero issues. As far as filter I use OEM.

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2010 Bathurst Black Pearl V6 A/T Track

Current modifications:
Injen CAI
M&S foglight surrounds
20% tint
Headlights and taillights smoke tinted
Painted black rear emblem
Hard-wired radar detector
OEM front all-weather mats
OEM all-weather trunk mat
Magnaflow catback exhaust
BC Racing coilovers
Luxon grille

carenthusiast

Doesn't Amsoil say that you can have oil changes in 25,000 mile intervals or something like that? I wouldn't feel comfortable going that many miles without an oil change.

WildBill

Not sure on that, but I will say that I could go 10K to 15K if I wanted. But I have a long trip along with some spirited driving coming up in 2 weeks at the Dragon's Tail (early b-day and spring break gift to me) where I think I will be changing the oil out before and after since I plan to push her harder than usual. Better safe than sorry and oil in the long run is cheap. Especially being a sponsor. I just have to give enough notice to get it shipped in time.

Bill

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Lauren

Regardless of the oil used... I wouldn't go more than 8k between oil changes.... for peace of mind and saving your ass...

If you switch oil, say to Amsoil (which say 25,000mi intervals), you blow your turbo or engine, go back to Hyundai and whine, they wont honor the warranty as you didn't follow Hyundai Service Scheduling... which is every 6k or 6 months (or whatever the manual says)



Prime example, a guy here blew his turbo and needs a new engine on top of that with his 2009 STi. He did 15,000KM intervals because "he was using synthetic"

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2010 Genesis 2.0T MT Nordschleife Grey

KrAk3n-H3adzZ

Yep. My next neighbor is an Amsoil rep. I just have a hard time believing that a product that good doesn't have more market share. Or is it that good? Bad company plan?

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380GT
THANKS to Synnyster, Poop De Ville and Soaped!

Coming soon: DeLorean Ninja Doors with Mushroom Sideskirts

AKGC

Oil turn black at 1000 miles, isn't always true. The carbon is from start up, because of blow by, because the engine components aren't at operating temp. At temp the clearances are tighter. That is why an engine that is run 3k mile, driven in city, will have more carbon build up, than the same engine driven for 3k miles mostly highway.

And diesel engines has much beefier components and deal with double or more compression ratios than a gasoline engine, plus for induction, so those engines have less blow by, because of how the piston rings work.

Higher compression = better ring seal.

Beven

One of my friends had his car quite modified and only needed to change his oil every 30k, but he had a custom filter setup which he had 2 oil filters 1 for coarse particles and 1 for fine particles I believe he normally ran royal purple... I dont think he ever made it to 30k due to rebuilds/upgrades that would require him to pull the engine and drain fluids.

__________________
2010 Acqua Minerale Blue 3.8L GT MT
Mods:
Injen CAI & Superlux Tails

Previous cars:
2007 Mazda6 S 3.0L V6 AT
1995 Chevy Corsica 2.2L I4 AT

CincyTom

My first change will be next week at 1900 miles. I just wanna see what kind of stuff I see from break in. I'm leaning toward DuraBlend or a 50-50 mix. I ran 50-50 in my Ford Contour (24V DOHC) from the git go. At 120K miles it still runs great. I rarely went past 3,000/3 mo. between changes. That Ford Duratec engine is awesome. I'm hoping for same reliability in my 3.8 V6.

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3.8 GT - Tsukuba Red
Injen CAI
Type D Grill
Sequence fog lt. surround (recvd)
'Coupe' wheel caps & rear emblem
OEM emblems removed
Painted headlight housing flat black
ARK catback (ordered)
Black Rims (researching now)
Sound system (off, I love to hear the engine)

tgpfarm

I never understood the reason for syn blends. Whats the point? Seems like your shooting yourself in the foot.

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3.8 Yellow Track 6MT
I am talking out of my a$$ 99% of the time.

CincyTom

A mechanic suggested the blend when I first got the Contour in '95. I don't know enough about the properties to argue the pro's & con's. The car has been across the country a few times at sustained high speed with summer temps and through a lot of in town driving through Ohio winters. I've never had an engine problem. If I had the equipment and time I would love to take a peak inside the pan and see what it looks like.

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3.8 GT - Tsukuba Red
Injen CAI
Type D Grill
Sequence fog lt. surround (recvd)
'Coupe' wheel caps & rear emblem
OEM emblems removed
Painted headlight housing flat black
ARK catback (ordered)
Black Rims (researching now)
Sound system (off, I love to hear the engine)

Hudnut

I went 30k on one oil change in my scion tc with amsoil. The only requirement was a filter change every 10k. A sample of the oil was sent in for analysis at 15k and 30k. It passed both tests. After the 30k interval I didn't notice any gain in performance or quietness with fresh oil.
Here's a link to the analysis.
SKMBT_60007100809550.pdf

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3.8 GT red. manual.

AKGC

The issue is that older vehicles had regular, and over time develop sludge. Not all the sludge drains into the oil pan, and just hangs out elsewhere in the engine.

What happens when mixing synthetic in, is that it loosens up the sludge and breaks it apart in chunks. These chucks travel elsewhere in the engine, which clogs the smaller passageways, causing oil starvation in certain parts of the engine.