Originally Posted by CyborgRyu

I was just wondering, are the new 2013's 2.0t still the same class as last gen?

Originally Posted by ABQautoxer

No, that's an attempt to gain spring rate and would be illegal. Also I believe there was a ruling on bumpstop modification that the answer is you can't change them at all.


Awesome, this is my next project though I'm trying to be lazy and see if RMR wants to sell them.


It's actually not that uncommon. I had it so badly in my 99 Miata that I eventually did the swap to a manual rack which was an option that year. My C5Z06 had it but bleeding/better fluid fixed it. Last night I swapped out .5 qt of fluid with Redline power steering fluid and I had replaced .3-4qts on Saturday night. The fluid is looking much less murky already. I'll probably wait another day or two of commuting and then do the swap again. I'll be able to test it on Saturday when I teach another autox school and plan to use my car for ride-alongs. I think it will be better, just never entirely go away.

Originally Posted by donour

Settings, as in which holes/stiffness? I would start at the stiffest then back off if you think you've gone too far.

On the front:

Incidentally, I couldn't get the OE endlinks to match up to the 'inner', 'most stiff' mounting holes. They are too long.

Another thing to note is that the holes are not layed out in a line perpendicular to the ground/motion plane. The change in stiffness comes from changing the length of the lever arm. At the ~45 degree angle that it mounts, the difference in lever arm is really just distance/sqrt(2).

donour

Originally Posted by Suns_PSD

I had no problems w/ fitment and have swapped the stiffness 2x already at both ends. You need to get the car up but keep the wheel loaded. So use ramps if possible.

As for settings, full stiff was just terrible in my car in the rear but great in the front.

If I was running less grippy tires I can only assume I'd run full soft all around.

Originally Posted by donour

I don't think it has been classified yet. While you can certainly run it in modified, it's probably not legal for any stock class.

donour

Originally Posted by AutocroSSer

While I'm at it, a generic Hoosiers question.

This is my first set of "sticker" A6 Hoosiers. And I've been on street tires for years and years now

How much should we run them at the Test-n-Tune (0 runs, 1-2 runs, more...doubtful I would think) to get the mold release compound off of them?

Obviously want to remove that, but NOT start biting into the "fastest" runs on the tires

Originally Posted by DragNRacing

You really just want to scuff them enough to get the shininess off. I would probably do one run on the Test-n-Tune at moderate speeds. That should scuff them without getting into the good stuff.

Originally Posted by ABQautoxer

Spent the weekend at the TX Pro. IMO its not looking good for the GC in D Stock, the 2011+ WRX with 295s all around was very impressive. Lincoln should be very interesting in September.

Originally Posted by ABQautoxer

Yes that 295s on a 17x8. No way a street tire that wide would work or maybe even mount. I would say 265 is the max but more likely a 255 Star Spec would fit right if you agree with Andy Hollis' thoughts on street tire fitment vs race tires.