1. Chock the front wheels and set your parking brake and put it in first gear. Obviously you are lifting the rear so the parking brake isn’t crucial, but it will help with removing the axle caste nut. Preferably roll the windows down too, so you can reach the e-brake and gear shifter without crawling inside a car on jack stands.
2. Jack up the car. I used the back cross member to place the jack, then place jack stands like you see in the picture. If you have a better location, that is fine, just MAKE SURE IT IS A STRUCTURAL MEMBER AND IT IS SAFE TO BE UNDER YOUR CAR! I can’t stress that enough, you will be under your car pulling and some items require 80+lb-ft and you DO NOT want your car rocking or falling off the jacks, DEATH COULD RESULT FROM IMPROPER PLACEMENT OF JACK STANDS!!! I had mine on this location for a bit longer than a week, so I know they are more than fine.
2a. Remove your exhaust. I have a different than OEM exhaust so there is no need to have me go into detail on how to remove and it is pretty simple anyway. Unbolt the 2 bolts flange after the secondary catalytic converter, pull the rubber hangars off the car, you might need some lube and take off the exhaust. You might want to get a new gasket for re-installation. I am not even sure if the jack stand location will work for removing the OEM exhaust, so you might need to put your car on drive-on ramps or something to get to your exhaust.
2b. Remove 6 bolts (10mm) on your heat shielding so your drive shaft center post can be seen/worked on. I just tightened them snug. And while you are under there, I removed both e-brake cable bolts show below (.5”/12mm) just to give me more slack, it might not be necessary for all.
2c. While you are under there, grab a 7/8” socket and a drain/drip pan and take the drain plug out and drain the oil.
3. Remove the wheel lug nuts. Tightening torque 65.1~79.6 lb-ft.
4. Remove two brake caliper mounting bolts (17mm) and tie the caliper up by anything so that it has no hanging stress on the hose. Tightening torque 36.1~43.3 lb-ft.
You can see slight tension on the brak cable ( I should have had it a bit higher, but the whole weight of the brake caliper is no resting on the hose.
5. *Remove this split/cotter pin by bending the ends up so you can pull it out of the hole. Then loosen the axle castle nut. Tightening torque 144.7~188.1 lb-ft *This can be an optional step depending on how many tools, and the room you have under your car though I had to. Take care to notice the washer direction and possibly mark it if you have a hard time telling which is flat and which is convex. The convex side needs to face outward so the flat side rest against the rotor side.
5a. *HMA tells you to go to their brake section and remove the rotors and e-brake though I couldn’t get off my rusted rotors so I am not going to include that.
6. Loosen the lower trailing arm mount nut and bolt seen here (17mm). Tightening torque 72.3~86.8 lb-ft
7. Loosen the lower assist arm nut and bolt shown here (19mm). Tightening torque 72.3~86.8 lb-ft After removing this bolt, I couldn’t get the ball joint out, so I put the bolt back on and took the other end bolt off. It is a cam’d bolt so take a picture or note down the tic marks so you can place it back. The cam’d bolt is 7/8 on the bolt head side and the nut is 15/16”. Tightening torque 101 ~ 116 lb-ft
8. Remove the lower arm mount bolt (19mm). Tightening torque 101.2~115.7 lb-ft
9. HMA tells you to remove the wheel speed sensor, but I thought it was easier to just disconnect the connector, so I just did that. Less torque specs and sockets to deal with. The blue line is the cable, you need to pull the two rubber holders out and the plastic clip, and then the actual connector.
10. *The next step is to remove to bolts holding the e-brake cable. If you haven’t removed the rotor, chances are you won’t be able to do this. HMA isn’t clear at all, but I would imagine you release the e-brake cable somewhere behind the rotor. This just means you won’t be able to completely pull your hub off, but I just put a bucket or a box or ramp or something that can hold the hub (attached by your e-brake cable) but off to the side so you can later remove the axles.
11. Remove the upper arm and link mount bolt and nuts (19mm for the upper arm, 17mm for the upper link). Tightening torque 72.3~86.8 lb-ft. These are the last thing (minus your e-brake cable attached to your car so have a support underneath ready to support the wheel, I used a rhino ramp to hold mine.
12. Use a pry-bar and stick it in between the hub and the axle and pry the axle out. My driver’s side came out easy, the passenger side… not so much. Do not use a sledgehammer to knock out the axle, you will mushroom it and not be able to get the bolt back on unless you get it machined. I think there is a tool that bolts to your hub/wheel bolts and you screw to push the axle out and you might be able to get on from the auto stores loaner program. You pretty much need two people for this step.
13. Use a pry-bar again to pry the axle out of the differential. Be careful not to go to deep and jack up your seals, unless you bought new seals for this, but I didn’t. Move the axles out of the way, Possibly cover the ends with a plastic bag or something just to prevent dust from accumulating on the oil seals.
14. Mark all of the drive shaft bolts (I used a blue permanent marker, but I think a lighter color might work better) and I put 1 tick mark on one bolt, 2 ticks on the other and 3 ticks marks on the last one as well as the rubber damper, the drive shaft propeller bolt housing and anywhere you think necessary to make sure you place them back in the same place. I think you drive shaft is balanced and that is why this is needed. Also HMA says to use an 8 point hex socket, not a 12 point or anything that will increase the chances of you ‘scuffing/rounding’ the bolt head. The black headed bolts face the back, the silver ones face the front. So I had 2 pairs of 3 bolts with tick marks. Also marked the rubber damper in between the shafts (chances are it will fall off) with tape and marker as if you just use a marker the paint flakes off and your markings go with it.
14a. Since I have a dial indicator, I measure the drive shaft runout (0.3mm (0.012in.) so I could measure when I am done and make sure everything is back. Mine measured .005”.
15. Break loose all of the bolts (19mm). Tightening torque 65.0~79.5lb-ft. I had to use a thin close end wrench to hold the nut on these. Again it helps to have a friend reach through your window, and put your car into 1st so the drive shaft won’t move (as much it can still move) so you can break them loose, then, have them put it in neutral so you can rotate the shaft and repeat on all 6 bolts. One nice thing that makes sense if I think about it, but HMA failed to annotate is that the black headed bolts are REVERSE THREAD. Saving you from killing yourself to get bolts lose by going the wrong and finally giving up and saying, well it can’t hurt going the other way. You can loosen them the whole way, but you can’t take the black ones off yet, but take the silver ones off.
16. Loosen the drive shaft center bearing bracket (14mm or 17mm I forget). And let it just hang (it falls about 3-4”). Tightening torque 65~79.5 lb-ft.
17. Now back to the driveshaft coupler near the differential. You can push the drive shaft towards the front of the car and it has about 2-4” of ‘play’ so you can take the bolts off and take the driveshaft off the differential propeller. The driveshaft has to be turned so the black bolts can be pulled out at ~10:00 or 2:00. I rested the driveshaft on a box so it has less stress on it and bolted back the center bearing bracket again to reduce undue stress.
18. This is one of the more difficult parts so I couldn’t really take a picture of it. Break loose (19mm), but leave in the differential mounting/damper bushings. I had a friend with a jack place it under the differential case, right here. Then I undid the bolts fully with one hand while holding the differential case arm with the other to stabilize it. Then one all the bolts were out, SLOWLY and CAREFULLY lower the jack and use both arms to support the differential arms as he lowers it. Then inch your was out from under the car while your friend tries to support the differential as well as he pulls it out. Tightening torque 57.8~72.3 lb-ft
19. I luckily had a workbench that ended up working perfectly to hold the differential case and had existing holes at the proper distance so I could bolt the case to it. It made the next few steps much easier. Take all the differential cover bolts out. Tightening torque 28.9~39.1 lb-ft I used this cereal box to keep the bolts locations, it might not be that important to do, but I did it, and it prevented them from getting lost.
My bolt' holder'
19a. I used a chisel and a hammer and went around the edges until the cover came off.
19b. I used a razor blade to scrape off the majority of the gasket and a scotch pad to get the rest off. I would put a shirt of a rag into the differential case to try to catch the gasket shavings. Though when I was done cleaning all of that, I used brake cleaner to clean it out really well, then dumped it.
20. Before disassembling differential case assembly, paint match marks on one side of the bearing cap so you know how to put it back together. Take the bearing cap bolts off (I forgot the socket size but I think 17mm) and from this point on have a left side and a right side ‘pile’ for stuff. If you decided to buy new bearing caps and bearings and bearing races, this isn’t needed obviously, but it will increase the wear of your parts if you don’t do this as they all ready have a set wear pattern and are broken in this way. I couldn’t find torque specs on these, so I used 40 lb-ft. The shims you can take keep separate sides, but this really doesn’t matter as chances are you will be using different shims to fit the new differential in. My LSD came with side bearings and races and I placed them accordingly left and right.
20a. I measured my backlash since I had a dial indicator and also painted my ring gear to check the pattern. My backlash was .005” and (Standard :0.10~0.15mm) and my pattern looked too close to the tip. Though the pattern is extremely difficult to see, the gear marker paint didn’t work very well at all for me.
Some pitting I had on the face of the cover.
20b. I used two pry-bars to dig in one of the arms that covers the spider gears to pry out the open differential. Have a friend there to catch the most likely to fall off bearing and races.
21. Take off the ring gear bolts, this will probably require an impact wrench or a vise to hold the differential (not recommended) and a breaker bar. I have heard these can be very difficult to remove and some need to buy new ring gear bolts after removing them, I used a cheapo 250lb-ft impact and they came right off. I also took them off in an opposite clock (opposite sides working around), I don’t know if that is necessary, but that is what I did.
22. Take your rubber hammer and tap the edges of the ring as you rotate it until it falls off. Obviously, have something to catch the ring gear. I have heard this can be very difficult too, though mine fell right off the second the last bolt came off. I cleaned the blue loctite off the bolts the best I could and inside the ring gear. I also cleaned all of the gear marker paint off the ring gear and the pinion inside the differential case. I also cleaned the pinion from the gear marker.
This is my left side bearing cap
My right side bearing cap has a bit more wear. It was my drive side, so that could be due to having an open differential, or possibly Hyundai didn't tighten my bearing caps tight enough.
Half way point, if I was HMA, I would simply say, install reversal of removal…..