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DIY: Rear deck removal/Sub installation

109K views 144 replies 59 participants last post by  Projectx7  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
edit*
Re-uploaded my DIY in PDF form so photos are now preserved.

http://projectlancer.net/gencoupe/Rear Deck Removal.pdf

DIY: Rear deck removal/Sub Installation​

Disclaimer:
As with any DIY you assume full responsibility for what you do to your car and I am in no way liable for any damage that happens. In other wards do this DYI at your own risk!

Car: 2010 Genesis coupe R-Spec Edition
For all of my DIY the car model and trim will be a 2010 Genesis coupe R-Spec Edition most trims will be the same for most aspects but there is the possibility that things can be different on your trim vehicle that may require altering the DIY steps ect.

Tools:
Philips screwdriver
Socket wrench
10MM socket
Socket Extension
Flashlight
Drill*
Drill bits*
Bolts*
*needed if installing a custom sub.

Rear Deck Removal:
1) First slide up both front seats to give you some working room in the back. Once you do that pull down your back seats so you can see the rear panel. You will use your Philips screw driver to remove all of the bolts holding this panel on.
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2) Open your trunk and remove the floor matt to expose the cars body. You will see all the way in the back of your trunk near the seats there is a foam protector screwed onto the floor this needs to be removed. Remove the screws using your Philips screw driver. Once you remove the foam protector you will see two bolts that hold the rear panel [where the red arrow are pointing to]. You will need your 10 MM socket to remove these two bolts.
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3) Now the rear panel is fully unbolted and ready to come out. You’ll notice its split into two different pieces a left and right one. This is the method I used so I can shortcut removing the rest of the interior panels. The rear panel interlocks with the side panel. It is shaped like an L. Take the left panel at the farthest end from the side panel and pull it towards you and around clockwise so that the panel slips free from the side panel. You will need to use some force but don’t go Rambo on it and break the panel either just take caution while doing this. Do this for the right side as well.
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4) Okay now the hard part is done the rest is very simple. You will now have to remove the rear pillars. To do this get a flat head screw driver to remove the cap then use your 10MM socket with an extension to remove the bolt holding it in place. When you go to pull this off just be careful as there are a lot of wires you do NOT want to mess with.
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5) Now pull up slightly on the rear deck carpet panel so you can see under it. Use your flashlight and locate where the brake light plug is and unplug it it should be directly in the center all the way back. Now just pull up on the rear deck there are around 4 pressure clips that hold it on. Now the rear panel has been removed and can easily be pushed out of the way just give the seat belts a lot of extra slack and push the rear deck into the trunk. If you look at the bottom of my first picture you’ll see the rear deck just pushed aside. I also added some pictures of the rear without the interior.
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Sub Installation:

1) Now that the rear deck has been removed you can install your 8” sub. That is the largest size you will be able to fit in there without modifying the rear deck. First you’ll either see a black dummy plate if your car doesn’t have a sub or a sub if you do. This plate is held on by 4 10MM bolts.
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2) Now that the plate is removed test fit your sub in the hole to make sure it fits. From here on I can’t give you anymore guidance as subs and way to mount them will vary so you’ll need to use some ingenuity to mount her up. Remember to lay it out well where your drilling the hole and test fit until your certain it’s how you want it.
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#2 ·
Added to the DIY sticky, thanks!
 
#4 ·
Dang this may be exactly what I'm looking for! I don't want huge bass, but a little more than the stock speakers!
 
#9 ·
Well, i changed the setup because i didn't bolt it down very well the first time and have been too lazy to since. But once i get 4 bolts with locking washers it will be perfect without rattling. Also i put foam in between the metal and the subwoofer mount to kill rattling. The wiring and what not I'll prob be making another DIY which will show how to get wires into the cabin and installing an amp/double din unit.
 
#10 ·
Did the new sub make much diff? Any idea what the power output on the amp is for the sub? Also isnt it an issue using the entire trunk as a box? Typically a small 8" would have like .75 cubes or maybe even .5 cubes, but now its the entire trunk. I dunno much about car audio but doesnt seem the best. Just wondering...

Thanks
 
#11 ·
I am really considering installing a sub in my base now. How hard would it be to make an MDF ring to raise the sub to be on top of the back deck?
 
#14 ·
If you have a jigsaw and a steady hand, not hard at all, just be patient, take your time, measure twice, cut once.
 
#18 · (Edited)
My MDF ring broke (pulled apart in the middle) after only a few days of being installed. But the required thickness is 3/4 inch.
I'm replacing the MDF ring with a HDPE one, it should handle the vibration a better.

Hope Projectx7 doesn't mind me throwing this pic up to show you what it looks like raised above the rear deck.

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Sub is a Elemental Designs e3.8, the cone has an almost carbon fiber look/feel to it.
 
#22 ·
I bought a Punch 8" at first, and tried to make a box underneath it.. failed misserably. I really do wish you the best of luck and I want pictures!!

Just FYI, there is quite a bit of flex when you start throwing some heavy notes at that trunk deck.. so before you toss it all together run something loud and heavy through the speaker to make sure the MDF doesn't peel appart.

Mine is coming out as soon as my car comes back, using HDPE ring instead and putting some hushmat on the top side too to help keep the tinning down.
 
#83 ·
old picture i know... i bought dynamat today and was wondering would i pad remove the rear deack and put the dynamat then reinstall deck, or do what snoopy did and dynamat underneath?
 
#30 ·
snoopy how is the bass response? is it tight? notice many new rattles besides whats caused by the loud bass?



I just got a couple alpine amps (they were free, don't bash) and want to do a basic install but Im an audiophile so I want tight bass that I can hear and comprehend rather than some garbage that comes from the trunk (junk in the trunk).
 
#31 ·
suprisingly enough... it sounds better under the grill than what I had before and it eliminated a LOT of rattles that I had with the old setup. The only rattles I have now are from the back seat release handle in the trunk (working on a fix) and from my overhead console but that could be because it's broken (winter cracked it).

With my old setup the whole deck would vibrate like crazy and the c-pillars would slap against the window, because the deck was between the baffle and the sub it didn't sit cleanly and would make this weird clicking noise.

As for response, my sub no longer bottoms out (it's Free-to-air so it can be mounted like this) and I can now crank my gain to max (all 350w's my amp makes while still having a 50w headroom) and no distortion what-so-ever. It's also more of an ambience bass rather than a locational, which I prefer because I use my uNavi for movies and like to have that nice home theater kind of sound.

It's heaps better now than the old setup.. wish I did this to begin with...

But if you're not buying an 8" sub, don't mount in the stock location, go custom or buy a Zenclosure, it's the easiest and cheapest way to put a sub in the car. You can get either a 200w-rms or a 400w-rms version of my sub.. and it's a good little thumper in the 200w... and I don't even have it fully powered.
 
#73 ·
suprisingly enough... it sounds better under the grill than what I had before and it eliminated a LOT of rattles that I had with the old setup. The only rattles I have now are from the back seat release handle in the trunk (working on a fix) and from my overhead console but that could be because it's broken (winter cracked it).

With my old setup the whole deck would vibrate like crazy and the c-pillars would slap against the window, because the deck was between the baffle and the sub it didn't sit cleanly and would make this weird clicking noise.

As for response, my sub no longer bottoms out (it's Free-to-air so it can be mounted like this) and I can now crank my gain to max (all 350w's my amp makes while still having a 50w headroom) and no distortion what-so-ever.


Just thought I'd peep in and save you, your sub and amp, and your wallet.
Just because you turned your gain to max does not mean your getting more out of your amp.
The gain is not a power switch or bass control. It's a level adjustment between the voltage coming from the radio and the amp.
What's happening right now is your amp is working harder on nothing and also running supper hot.






Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 
#32 ·
looks nice, I'm debating on doing this myself, I've actually had better luck with smaller subs sounding nicer at times than the bigger ones( 10-12''.). I like were you hid the amp too, would have never thought about putting one there.