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Old 01-19-2012, 02:50 PM   #21
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I just jack the car up and see what needs to be done ...not much room which I hate. Got a price on install , $150.00 ...I will try to install it in Feb. or just have it done by pro.
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Old 01-27-2012, 05:34 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by rspec116 View Post
Excellent write-up. Good photos.

It looks like your turbo was removed, which had to help. The mounts can be changed even with the factory turbo in place.

I would like to add two suggestions. Since the engine has to be lifted quite high to remove the factory mounts, it's a good idea to disconnect the air intake hose first. Also, there is a brace with four nuts under the transmission. Backing those nuts almost all of the way off will let the transmission move up just a bit.
Yes, mounts can be changed with turbo in place. Air intake hose definately worth the time of removal as well as the rear transmission support bolts. Neither would take long & would make the job much easier.

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that was a really good write up, i enjoyed the bit of confusion between you two. cant wait for that DIY section to come along.
Thanks, yeah I was pretty confused there.

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I just jack the car up and see what needs to be done ...not much room which I hate. Got a price on install , $150.00 ...I will try to install it in Feb. or just have it done by pro.
$150 not too bad if you don't want to mess with it or unable to.



I'm probably fixing to reinstall the OEM mounts temporarily until I get my motor built & thus balanced. The vibration & noise is driving my nuts as a daily driver.


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Last edited by Tufast; 01-27-2012 at 05:52 AM.
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Old 01-27-2012, 05:51 AM   #23
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I made the appointment with shop , this will be installed over the weekend. I did the transmission mount fix few days ago and let the mount get dry for 3 days. I bought a street version and hope it will eliminate the steeling rod contact issue after installing the System upgrade headers. If not I will lower the car about an inch + will start working on CEL issue cause by aftermarket headers as well...
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Old 02-08-2012, 03:41 PM   #24
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just got this installed today, took almost 4 hrs, the engine does not move.

Car has more vibrations around front window area, some rattle here and their around the front again. my system upgrade headers are not vibrating and touching the steeling rod after this mod.

I only have one more mod left as bolt on which I am waiting for delivery, nameless high flow cat.

The car feels like 60s V8 engine performance car and it sould sound like one with high flow cat and headers.

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Old 02-09-2012, 12:01 PM   #25
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Glad to hear you got'em in & that it eliminated the headers hitting, but be prepared to have to tighten stuff down intermittently as these with this motor will cause things to loosen & rattle including interior trim, exterior body trim.
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Old 02-09-2012, 04:00 PM   #26
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Quote:
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Car has more vibrations around front window area
Quick fix untill you get around to a better real fix, push you rubber door seal so that it is pinched on the headboard. This rubber buffer eliminates that rattling.
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Old 02-09-2012, 05:26 PM   #27
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the mile or two , when the engine is cold , the vibration is like a school bus. LOL , after that its very nice to drive. This mod is not for most GC owners who hates rattles inside the car. The system upgrade headers and single exit exhaust sounds louder from start of engine , the steeling wheel feel is much more tighter , and I could pretty much the feel the more mechanical drive train spin while the car is moving. The cp-e 3.8 engine mounts moved the engine forward about 1/4 inch and lowered it about 1/8 inch so far.

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Old 02-10-2012, 12:05 PM   #28
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+1....not for the feint at heart that don't like rattles.

BTW...it should make shifting feel slightly better for M/T or at least it seemed so for me.
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