ninja3.8

Ok guys, here it is! the long overdue cruise control solution for us R-spec guys!


This DIY is very long and in depth. Probably not a fun read for someone not actually doing the install. I tried to be as thorough as possible to help out anyone who may attempt this.

Notes: This install is not easy and I would not recommend it if you are not comfortable soldering and making basic electrical connections. The kit I bought is not made specifically for our car so the interactions were only helpful to a certain degree. many of the connections in the instructions were not applicable to our vehicle. The diagrams and described color connections in the supplied instructions were almost useless. During the instal I spent quite a bit of time on the phone with technical support trying to determine what the voltages of the needed wires would be. I also had to strip back and test nearly every wire to confirm its voltage and that it indeed was the wire i needed to tap into. our car has different colored wires for almost everything than what is outlined in the instructions. Luckily for you guys I have already done the PITA work of testing all the wires so I will have the correct colors for you in this DIY! I'm definitely glad that there is indeed a solution for us and I am happy I can contribute this DIY to the community. If you have any questions feel free to PM me and I will answer them and add that information to the thread! Enjoy!

The kit I used was model 250-1859 found here:
Rostra Precision Controls | Custom Pedal Interface Aftermarket Cruise Control by Rostra

I ordered mine from the cruise control store found here:

http://www.thecruisecontrolstore.com...0015/250-1859G

Here are the materials you will need:
1.Rostra cruise control kit
2.Philips head screwdriver
3.wire strippers (must be able to strip a 20 ga wire)
4.socket wrench and socket set with extension
5.razor blade
6.soldering iron and solder
7.zip ties
8.Power drill
9.3/8 in drillbit
10.pliers
11.Voltmeter
12.electrical tape
13.A whole lot of patience

This is everything included in the kit.


alright, here we go!

1. The first thing you need to do is turn on the vehicle and turn the wheel to the left so that you expose one of the two screws be hid the steering wheel. Remove this screw and do the same thing for the right. Turn your wheel back to center.

This is what you should see once you have turned the wheel.


2.The next thing you need to do is disconnect the negative side of your battery.
It is held on with a 10mm nut. Simply loosen this and it will slide right off the top of the terminal. Make sure to secure it so the it cannot contact the terminal later. You can see the i just tucked it down in front of the battery.




***I recommend you slide your drivers seat all the way back to free up a bit more room for the remainder of the install.


Next you will need to remove the driver side kick panel. There are four screws. The first two are located towards the bottom of the kick panel on both the right and left sides or the steering column. these are easy to spot. The last two are a little trickier. they are located behind the outer trim on the right side of the dash/kickpanel. To access them you will first need to pop off the fuse panel cover. Now you will need to pop off the trim that the cover was inserted into. you will see what I mean when you get there. once that is removed you will see the remaining two screws. It will look like this.





4. When you pull off the kick panel, be careful not to pul on the OBDII port and wires too hard. you will see that the OBDII connector is held onto the kick panel itself by two more philips head screws. Go ahead and remove these screws and set the kick panel aside.

5. Now comes the fun part. Look under the dash and locate the wires coming up from behind the accelerator pedal. They are wrapped in tape and look like a single black wire. Separate the wires so that you can see them individually. There should be 5 of them. we are concerned only with the two yellow wires and the pink wire. strip away a small portion of the two yellow wires just long enough to solidly contact your volt meter probe but make sure that these two exposed spots are not touching.

6. Now reconnect the negative battery terminal. Go back inside the cabin and turn the ignition on but do not start the motor. With the ignition on, fully depress the accelerator pedal and test the voltage of both yellow wires. (there is a good factory ground located to the left of the pedals.) One of these wires will read 2 volts and the other around 4 I believe. We want the yellow wire that reads 2 volts with the ignition on and the accelerator pedal fully depressed.

7. Once you have found the yellow wiring reading 2 volts, wrap a piece of electrical tape around the exposed spot on the over wire and push it back with the bundle.

8. Again, disconnect the negative battery terminal.

9. Back under the dash, locate the yellow and pink wires we were just working with. Now you're going to need to cut these. Make sure to leave enough slack on both sides to be able to work with the wires. Try to cut halfway between where the wires come out form behind the carpet and where they merge into a larger bundle of wires.

10. Locate the harness with the red, white, yellow, and green wires that came with your kit. now remove the connectors at the end of the wires so that it is easier to work with. now you need to connect the end of the red wire to the yellow wire coming from the accelerator and the white wire to the pink wire from the accelerator.



11. Now you need to connect the Yellow wire from the supplied connector to the yellow wire running into the main wiring harness and the green wire to the pink wire.



12. Once you have your connections made, plug both of the connectors you just worked with into each other.

13. Reconnect the negative terminal, start the motor, and rev it up to confirm proper operation of the accelerator. If it works properly, shut off the motor and again disconnect the negative terminal. Disconnect the the connectors at the gas pedal as well.

14. Now, locate the supplied harness with the purple,black,red,blue,white/brown,yellow, and white wires. look under the dash and track the brake pedal back to where it bends. this is where the brake switch is located at. It is an off-white yellowish connector with a red and white wire as well as a few more wires including a pink, and a yellow. unplug this connector so that it is easier to get to. pull back the tape the wires are wrapped in and separate the larger gauge red and white wire from the rest. the two wires we want have their own pin in the connector and are next to each other.

strip back a small area on both the red and white wires. Solder the blue wire from the supplied harness to the red wire in the brake switch. connect the white with brown stripe wire from the supplied harness to the white wire of the brake switch.





Now find the clutch switch. It is located directly behind the clutch. Splice in the white wire from the supplied harness to the white wire coming out of the clutch switch.



17. Now, connect the black wire to the factory ground point by removing the 8mm screw holding the ground wires in place. replace the screw and tighten.



18. Next find your OBDII port which is now hanging and read closely on the front the pin numberings. we want the blue wire coming from pin 3. It is the third slot from the right on the bottom row in the picture.



19. Go ahead and strip back a little of the insulation and connect the purple wire from the supplied harness to the blue wire in pin 3 of the OBDII.



20. Now the last connection we need to make with this harness is the 12 volt ignition source which is the fused red wire.The wire I used for this is located at the junction box on the left and is fairly easy to access.





21. You may need to reconnect the negative terminal and test this wire with ignition on and off to be sure it is 0v ign off and 12v ign on. no need to strip any insulation for that as you can simply touch your voltmeter probe to the metal pin just inside the connector. If it is indeed the correct voltages the proceed to unhook the battery.

22. Strip back a small amount of insulation again and connect your red wire from the supplied harness.

23. Now we need to mount control stalk onto the steering column cover. to do this you need to remove the lower half of the cover. You already removed two of the screws in step one. now there is one remaining. It is located on the bottom of the steering column cover roughly in the middle.

Before removing the column cover, mark the location you would like to mount the stalk on the column. I chose a spot about an inch or two below the turn signal stalk. you can see where i mounted mine here:



To remove it, you need to use a little force to separate the two halves. you can see that there is a seam running the length of the column all the way around.



I found it easiest to turn the wheel to one side and start at the top of the column just behind the wheel. I actually used a pocket knife to stick in between the halves and pry a little but this is not necessary. Be careful here not to break anything or damage any of the plastic as it is fairly soft.

26. Once you have it removed, get your power drill and drill a hole slightly larger than the metal threads of the stalk. I think it is somewhere around 3/8 but I am not sure as I just used a stepped drill bit and kept drilling till i got my desired diameter.

27. Now remove the nut, lock washer, and angled plastic piece from the control stalk. Go ahead and put your wire through the hole you drilled and thread the nut onto the other side. You want to put on the plastic piece then the lock washer then the nut. This is more clearly depicted in the included instructions.

28. Test fit the lower half of the steering column with your newly mounted stalk and rotate the stalk to your desired angle. Once you have it how you want it, grab your pliers and tighten the nut on the inside of the column cover.

29. At this point you can go ahead and snap the lower half of the column cover back into pace. Before you do that though, make sure to route the control stalk wires away from any obstructions or sharp metal. there is no need to replace the screws yet unless you want to.

30. now you need to insert the pins from the control stalk wire into the black and white connectors that were supplied with your kit. The proper placement is outlined in the included manual. I do not remember which colors go to which off the top of my head. However, do be careful that when you insert the pins that the connect or turned the correct way as the two connectors will only fit together one way.

31. Now connect the white connector from the control stalk wire to the white connector from the supplied harness and connect the black to black as well.

32. This wraps up all of the connections. Now you need to mount your control module. I chose to zip tie mine near the air vent at the bottom of the kick panel. you can see it here:



Now you need to plug in all of the connectors to the control module and zip tie the loose wires up and out of the way.



34. Replace the kick panel and all of the screws.

Take it for a drive and enjoy your new cruise control!

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turbo98

You are THE ****!

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giaolong

How long did it take u to done everything?


I dont think im up for this lol, tell me to rip a motor/turbo apart, swap diff or tranny, change out suspension from street to track i can do but that much of wires T_T

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JewishThunder

This. Awesome write up though.

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ninja3.8

Well, it took me about 6 hours. But bear in mind I had to test the voltage of 20 something wires with the ignition on and off and probably disconnected and reconnected the battery 10 separate times. Plus I spent about an hour or more on the phone with tech.

I'd say following this DIY you could do it in about 3 hours.

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Flipp

im so going to get this installed. lets get some vid posted of you running down the street with this working. good ish bro.

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ninja3.8

Will post up some video later this afternoon.

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Flipp

^sweeet.

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ninja3.8

Here you go, i know its short but It's the best I could manage in town.

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Flipp

^AWESOME. thanks for the vid bro. god ish.
thanks for making headway with this little project.

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ncsu11GC3.8R

very nicely done! Thanks for the write up!

Phillip

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Agent007

Not relevant to me, good work. Very nice write-up. Quick question tho, why did you not use the steering wheel that comes with the cruise control buttons? (Cheaper, obviously, any other reason tho?)

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Kimchee

great write-up, thanks for posting this...very helpful

LJ_Gencoupe

Awesome job man!

ninja3.8

well for one it was way way way cheaper to go this route. two, my previous vehicle had a dedicated stalk for cruise very similar to this so i actually almost prefer it this way. And finally, I have no idea if it is even possible. I don't have the time, money, or patience to make that work.

Plus, why use the steering wheel anyways. imho the stalk looks just fine and it is only visible when standing outside of the driver door.

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ninja3.8

Thanks for the kind words guys!

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babbitteb

Does the r spec not come with cruise control???

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fazerG8R

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! My R-Spec WILL be complete!

Brian22

Great job and write up.

I likely wont be doing it though. A dealer will easily spot that as aftermarket and know that the wiring was tapped into to make it work. That scares me a little.

ninja3.8

glad i could help!

And yes it is aftermarket but it's worth it.

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http://www.gencoupe.com/private-classifieds-interior/129126-fs-alpine-pdx4-100-zapco-dc650-drc-remote-control.html