I've placed this in the general engine section as we don't have a general transmission section, if a moderator feels the need to move it, by all means.
A brief history;
As many are aware and some may not, the Genesis Coupe uses an in-house developed and built M6VR-series manual transmission. Hyundai denotes the transmissions with a 1 or a 2 based on internal gearing. The transmission is a 6-speed, single reverse gearing with conical syncros, actuated shifting and a internal hydraulic cylindrical clutch with a hardened brass throw out bearing. All remains true regardless of the engine it's bolted to.
Hyundai initially released the transmission with composite materials that were later replaced with metalic versions due to poor weather conditioning, fluid reactions and premature wear. Hyundai also made an adjustment to the engagement point of the shift lever to control an issue with gear engagement. In later development the bearings were revised and a generic spec fluid was advised.
Purpose of this thread;
To document, gain support and hopefully release a rebuild kit for the M6VR transmission to have a quality and reliable transmission to support nearly any HP or TQ modders could throw at it. As well as to develop a stronger and quality DMF.
I currently have the following:
-2x spare M6VR1 transmissions w/ slave cylinders and TOB's
-1x spare '10 2.0T OE clutch
-1x spare '10 2.0T OE pressure plate
-1x spare '10 2.0T OE DMF flywheel
-1x spare '13 2.0T OE DMF flyhweel
Due to the parts I have, I am limited to 2.0T's. Anything developed for the 2.0T will be using the pre-'13 240mm clutch size rather than the 260mm. Anyone willing to part with any 3.8 parts to further the cause I would appreciate it, I have limited funding for this just as a heads up so I won't be buying parts unless I have to. Any 3.8 owners that would be willing to participate with testing or parts, I will do my best to arrange for test parts to be free.
Who I'll be working with;
Currently I've teamed up with Jack's Transmissions in Colorado Springs, CO. for the transmissions.
No current partner for the flywheel development. Please follow along for future updates to this.
How long till we see a result?
- There is currently no schedualed timeline.
What can we expect?
- Hopefully we'll be able to come up with either completely new internals that will eliminate the current issues with the transmission or confirm the need for a change in assembly practices. As well as hopefully being able to have someone supply a quality and solid DMF replacement for the weak and poorly constructed OE unit, enabling high HP/TQ street builds with none of the drawbacks of going to a SMF.
Price? We know it's not going to be free but ball park us.
- Prices will be determined by the final manufacturer of the products, sorry.
How does this differ from the last time you (Snoopy) went after the M/T?
- This time I (Snoopy) will be going at it from a completely unhindered and much more hands on approach as I won't be working directly with Hyundai and being mandated to follow their guidelines. This enables me to outsource work and use aftermarket components.
How much is all this R&D going to cost?
- No clue. Everything will most likely be funded by me so anything that has a heavy cost will eventually be done, but will add to the dev. time.
Parts that will help this; if you have one, simply PM me with your expectations, need the engine and model year of the part as well.
-M/T mount (few of them, working on a new design or a DIY mod)
-3.8 flywheel (any year)
-3.8 pressure plate (any year)
-3.8 clutch disc (any year, preferably not destroyed but doesn't need to be in "like new" condition)
-2.0T flywheel (2013)
-2.0T pressure plate (2013)
-2.0T clutch disc (2013)
-3.8/2.0T(2013 only) transmission gear set (I realise this will be the hardest to aquire)
Some people have felt that in order to speed things along they would help fund the projects. This is not of my doing but of the communitys, I will not be asking anyone for any donations, however
if you'd like to contribute that is up to you.
What will the donations go to?
- Currently any donated funds will be going to transporting the transmission to Jack's Transmissions in Colorado. Any remaining funds will be used either if needed by Jack's or
to return the transmission upon completion.
What happens to the money if nothing comes of this?
- That will be put to vote by the community. Since this is my project and my endeavor, if the current plan ends up a bust I have no problem refunding the
resources, it just might take me some time. Some might feel that the money is a risked investment and if nothing happens then so be it. However, I won't be deciding this, the people who donated will be.
What if there is money left over at the end of this?
- I'll return it in reverse order as those who most recently would be the ones who had needlessly donated.
How do I donate?
- Simply paypal money to email@example.com
. This is the safest method as it offers donators to open a dispute if they feel something is hinky. It also allows me to keep track of donations the
Can I track the donations?
- Absolutely. This project is different as it's complete transparency with the community. IRL names and email addresses are removed to protect peoples privacy however their
user tags are open knowledge and are what I will be using for identifiers on the list. The list can be found Here
IMPORTANT NOTE!! V6's use a different bell housing, meaning if you have a V6, you have to use a V6 transmission. This is because the starter is located in a different spot on the engines.
Absolute best for our type of synchros is apparently Mitsubishi DiaQueen 75W85 GL-4 (Mitsu PN 3717610) but it's really really expensive.. like over $100 for the amount you'd need to fill it once never mind a flush. If you got it in for the very first fill, the cost won't be so bad but yeah.. it's costly. This info comes from multiple sources, even some of the BMW and Subbie guys swear by it.
Second option: Less cost prohibitive is unequivocally Redline MT-85. Pure MT-85, zero shockproof of any kind. I can't say it's hands above Hyundai's new blend but it's got a great rep and is highly recommended by MT transmission builders everywhere.
Third option: Would be Shell Spirax S6 GXME 75w-80. It's designed to be the last oil you'll ever put in your transmission. It's rated for stupid amounts of torque, is designed to reduce operating temperatures (further protecting your components), all weather usage and more. It's the Rotella T6 of transmission oils, overkill. Only reason I rate this below the Red Line is because it's actually harder to get in the quantity most would need it in. It's about the same cost as the Red Line as well. Another reason I rate third is because it doesn't come in the OE grade 75w-85 and while that might not bother some it will a few. It runs thinner at temperature than Red Line does, this benefits the GC because our transmission has very narrow oil passages between our cones and this makes for improper lubrication when the oil can't get in there in the first place.
Fourth option: Hyundai's current blend, which also happens to be made by Shell (at least in northern countries like Canada and Russia). It's basically Pennzoil Synthetic 75w-90 now but Hyundai hasn't adjusted their tech papers to match.
Ones to avoid would be Royal Purple, GM/ACDelco SynchroMesh, Lucas, Honda, and Nissan fluids.
Now these recommendations are based purely on longevity and maximum protection, not performance.