DIY - Gravity Clutch Bleeding - Genesis Forum: GenCoupe Hyundai Genesis Forums
 
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#1 Old 06-10-2011, 10:29 PM
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DIY - Gravity Clutch Bleeding

Here is a very easy DIY for gravity clutch bleeding for those of you who have never done it before. It was my first time as well.

I have noticed times when driving, even with the usual slight pause in neutral between gears, there would still be instances where I could feel the gears slightly or almost grind. Even with the same shifting technique it would occur very randomly. I suspect that there is air in the clutch lines which is being compressed.

So anyways, the tools you will need are:

1) No. 10 wrench
2) Adjustable spanner
3) DOT 3 OEM Brake Fluid (May or may not need) available at your dealer for approx $5-$6 for this little thing
4) Something to drain into. I used my oil drain pan (shown later).



First, you will need to raise your car. My base 2.0T was able to clear the Rhino Ramps without scratching the front bumper. You may have to jack up and use jackstands. Remember to use a wheel chock.



Next, open up the resevoir circled in red. Place the cap somewhere safe.



The bleeding nipple is on the driver side of the transmission so get your oil pan or whatever you are using under that side of the car.



This is what you will be looking at once you are under the car. Notice how the square bleeder body is currently angled upwards. It is moveable.



Move it to angle downwards aiming it into whatever you are draining into. Towards the oil drain pan in my case.



Unplug the cap.



You will also want to move the cap to fold up against the tranny because it can get in the way when you drain.



Use the spanner to hold the bleeder body steady while at the same time using the No.10 wrench to loosen the bleeder screw. I have the show this step in 2 images as I did not have an extra person to hold the camera.





You will want to only loosen it to the point just before the fluid is about to drip out. It should now be loose enough so that you can put the tools down and use your hands to open and tighten the bleeder screw.



You can now finger loosen the screw and let it drain until you see a steady stream of fluid. Quickly finger tighten it to stop at this point.

You are basically done. Just use the spanner and the No.10 wrench to tighten back up the bleeder screw. Recap the nipple and adjust the bleeder box back to the original position (aim the unit back upwards).

Recap the resevoir and check the level. In my case I only drained a little as the fluid was sitting at the Max line originally and is now just below it. As such I will not be toping it off but depending on how much you drained you may have to top off the resevoir.



AND... You are done!

Just one last thing. Remember to remove the wheel chock as I always forget and try to drive over it.



**Note: Brake fluid is extremely corrosive to your car's paint. Becareful not to get any on your coupes when removing the resevoir cap as there may be some drops on the top of the cap that may fall onto your paint and do not touch the car before washing your hands/arms clean after getting out from under the car.

Patrolling The Mojave Almost Makes You Wish For A Nuclear Winter

2010 KW Base GC
- HKS SSQV BOV
- PowerAXEL Reflash
- OEM Strut Tower Brace
- Ebay catch cans

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Originally Posted by flylow View Post
they keep asking.... "but who makes this car???" and i keep saying... its just a genesis made by genesis lol!

Last edited by tarpan; 06-10-2011 at 10:37 PM.
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#2 Old 06-11-2011, 08:27 PM
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Good stuff bro, thanks for the DIY. Is your shifting smoother now? Mine is slightly crunchy at times so I may give this a try.
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#3 Old 06-11-2011, 09:00 PM
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Well the shifting is still notchy but I didn't encounter any grinding today. It was still very difficult to shift into 2nd before the car was fully warmed up but that is probably a tranny fluid viscosity issue. So for the first 5 minutes I usually have to go from 1st to 3rd. After that however I was able to shift somewhat normally and not have to do that whole pause in neutral thing. So overall I would say shifting has improved and it is definitely worth the time to do.

Patrolling The Mojave Almost Makes You Wish For A Nuclear Winter

2010 KW Base GC
- HKS SSQV BOV
- PowerAXEL Reflash
- OEM Strut Tower Brace
- Ebay catch cans

Quote:
Originally Posted by flylow View Post
they keep asking.... "but who makes this car???" and i keep saying... its just a genesis made by genesis lol!
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#4 Old 06-14-2011, 07:13 PM
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I still get the dreaded 5th gear grind. Swapping my fluid one more time and if that doesnt work taking it to the dealer for a tranny replacement. Uggg I hate using the dealer.
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#5 Old 06-14-2011, 08:42 PM
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ive tried doing it that way before they replace my transmission and it didn't do much .. i had to do it again with someone holding the pedal because it sucked some air before it actually started bleeding the fluid .. after that shifting was way better
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#6 Old 06-14-2011, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidp View Post
ive tried doing it that way before they replace my transmission and it didn't do much .. i had to do it again with someone holding the pedal because it sucked some air before it actually started bleeding the fluid .. after that shifting was way better
I wouldn't doubt it for a second. I will probably do that this or next weekend. For those of you wanting to do the real full bleed, just follow the DIY up top and integrate the pumping instructions here. You will also need a clear tube (can get from home depot/lowe's etc.) to fit over the bleeding nipple to observe the air bubbles.


Patrolling The Mojave Almost Makes You Wish For A Nuclear Winter

2010 KW Base GC
- HKS SSQV BOV
- PowerAXEL Reflash
- OEM Strut Tower Brace
- Ebay catch cans

Quote:
Originally Posted by flylow View Post
they keep asking.... "but who makes this car???" and i keep saying... its just a genesis made by genesis lol!
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#7 Old 04-09-2012, 10:55 PM
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Can the car be level while doing this, or does the front have to be elevated?
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#8 Old 04-10-2012, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by rogkum View Post
Can the car be level while doing this, or does the front have to be elevated?

It doesn't really matter, the system works with pressure so the car can be level or lifted.
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#9 Old 04-16-2012, 04:02 PM
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great job!
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#10 Old 12-03-2012, 08:26 AM
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Money!

Thanks will be using this DIY this weekend when I replace my clutch! (CC Stage-2 kit)

2012 Genesis Coupe 2.0T M/T - Tsukuba Red
- BTRcc bolt-on ECU & flash with 1-to-1
- Dynojet: 250 whp / 304 ft-lb tq
- Competition Clutch stage-2 kit with SMF
- PRW FMIC & Piping kit
- CP-E HFC DP & CP-E cat-back exhaust
- CP-E differential mounts
- ATQ short-shifter, bearings, and knob
- Megan Racing transmission mount
- K&N Typhoon SRI; Forge BOV
- PLX DM-100 Gauge & AFR Module
- Saikou Michi Catch-Cans; Redline MT-90 & 75W90
- NAV/GPS; backup-camera; OBD-II BT gauges
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#11 Old 12-05-2012, 01:05 PM
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you use DOT 3 brake fluid for the clutch?!
hmm learn somethign new every day

I am not a list of mods but what i know and share:
http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t/94778-fuel-system-what-you-need-know.html
http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t/86146-wastegate-101-a.html
http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t/91199-compressor-maps-how-read-them.html

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#12 Old 12-05-2012, 01:12 PM
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Brake and clutch are the same reservoir.

2010 Red 2.0L track

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(R=D)<TPTB
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#13 Old 12-05-2012, 01:25 PM
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Any DOT3; right? Any preference?

2012 Genesis Coupe 2.0T M/T - Tsukuba Red
- BTRcc bolt-on ECU & flash with 1-to-1
- Dynojet: 250 whp / 304 ft-lb tq
- Competition Clutch stage-2 kit with SMF
- PRW FMIC & Piping kit
- CP-E HFC DP & CP-E cat-back exhaust
- CP-E differential mounts
- ATQ short-shifter, bearings, and knob
- Megan Racing transmission mount
- K&N Typhoon SRI; Forge BOV
- PLX DM-100 Gauge & AFR Module
- Saikou Michi Catch-Cans; Redline MT-90 & 75W90
- NAV/GPS; backup-camera; OBD-II BT gauges
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#14 Old 12-05-2012, 01:27 PM
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I use Valvoline as it is a good fluid and readily available. Not very expensive either.

2010 Red 2.0L track

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#15 Old 04-17-2013, 10:32 PM
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The resevoir bottle says you can use dot3 or 4 brake fluid.

First production 3.8 turbokit in the US.
517whp/470wtq
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#16 Old 10-01-2013, 06:12 AM
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did this yesturady, used Valvoline DOT 4. Will change hole system over to Motul DOT 4 in a few weeks when i do my brakes

I am not a list of mods but what i know and share:
http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t/94778-fuel-system-what-you-need-know.html
http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t/86146-wastegate-101-a.html
http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t/91199-compressor-maps-how-read-them.html

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Quote:
I know you like making threads about these things that have been covered a ton, but this time, no.
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