Here is a very easy DIY for gravity clutch bleeding for those of you who have never done it before. It was my first time as well.
I have noticed times when driving, even with the usual slight pause in neutral between gears, there would still be instances where I could feel the gears slightly or almost grind. Even with the same shifting technique it would occur very randomly. I suspect that there is air in the clutch lines which is being compressed.
So anyways, the tools you will need are:
1) No. 10 wrench
2) Adjustable spanner
3) DOT 3 OEM Brake Fluid (May or may not need) available at your dealer for approx $5-$6 for this little thing
4) Something to drain into. I used my oil drain pan (shown later).
First, you will need to raise your car. My base 2.0T was able to clear the Rhino Ramps without scratching the front bumper. You may have to jack up and use jackstands. Remember to use a wheel chock.
Next, open up the resevoir circled in red. Place the cap somewhere safe.
The bleeding nipple is on the driver side of the transmission so get your oil pan or whatever you are using under that side of the car.
This is what you will be looking at once you are under the car. Notice how the square bleeder body is currently angled upwards. It is moveable.
Move it to angle downwards aiming it into whatever you are draining into. Towards the oil drain pan in my case.
Unplug the cap.
You will also want to move the cap to fold up against the tranny because it can get in the way when you drain.
Use the spanner to hold the bleeder body steady while at the same time
using the No.10 wrench to loosen the bleeder screw. I have the show this step in 2 images as I did not have an extra person to hold the camera.
You will want to only loosen it to the point just before the fluid is about to drip out. It should now be loose enough so that you can put the tools down and use your hands to open and tighten the bleeder screw.
You can now finger loosen the screw and let it drain until you see a steady stream of fluid. Quickly finger tighten it to stop at this point.
You are basically done. Just use the spanner and the No.10 wrench to tighten back up the bleeder screw. Recap the nipple and adjust the bleeder box back to the original position (aim the unit back upwards).
Recap the resevoir and check the level. In my case I only drained a little as the fluid was sitting at the Max line originally and is now just below it. As such I will not be toping it off but depending on how much you drained you may have to top off the resevoir.
AND... You are done!
Just one last thing. Remember to remove the wheel chock as I always forget and try to drive over it.
**Note: Brake fluid is extremely corrosive to your car's paint. Becareful not to get any on your coupes when removing the resevoir cap as there may be some drops on the top of the cap that may fall onto your paint and do not touch the car before washing your hands/arms clean after getting out from under the car.