I've been considering how much it would cost to mod the 2.0t and/or the 3.8. Therefore, I have approximated the cost to mod your car, and the approximate powerlevel you would achieve.
2.0t, from stock, cost of base model new, $22K, puts down about 175whp stock
Cost to mod 2.0t, and to what power level:
tuner $700 (reflash $500)
intake $220
downpipe/testpipe $200
exhaust $850 Buschur Cat back
----$1970, 234whp (a gencoupe owner has reported that a 3" turbo back exhaust, cold side piping, intake, Waste Gate Actuator, Block off plate and Forge BOV... had taken him from 185whp to 231whp, no tuning, the 234whp number at this level may need to be adjusted to 250whp, although add about $450)
intercooler kit $1k (or just a intercooler if the stock pipes can be used someway)
custom tune $300
----$3270, 250whp
upgrade compressor wheel and bored turbo $700??? Could be more
upgraded injectors $400 (will need 750cc for mid 400whp, so might as well go there)
TiAL BOV w/flange from Buschur $275
custom tune $300
----$4945, 300whp
OR get a turbo kit with everthing preselected: Lovefab Turbo Kit $7200 ($6700 introductory price) gets you 382whp; another coming from 7ism also said to be about $7K
Fuel return line kit $300 (not needed according to lovefab at 382whp)
rod swap $2100 (Buschur Racing has pistons and rods for ~$1400, maybe $700 install, you can also ask Beyond Redline which has a fully built long block:rods, pistons,cams,head work, head studs, could be just as a precaution since the rods are known to be risky, while the others are unknown)
GT3076 $1500
upgraded wastegate $200
Turbo adapter $100?
Walbro 255lph fuel pump $100
custom tune $300
Twin Disc Clutch $800 with install
---- ~$10345 at (Beyond Redline currently at 400whp, could hit 450whp w/more tuning, as predicted they hit 466whp on 8/24)
3.8, from stock, cost of base model new, $25k, puts down about 250whp stock
Cost to mod 3.8, and to what power level:
intake 220
exhaust $850 Buschur Cat back
headers $1k
tuner $700 (reflash $500)
------------$2770, 300whp (a gencoupe owner has reported that ARK headers and Injen CAI has given a 33whp gain alone, the 300whp number at this level may need to be adjusted to 310-320 whp)
cams $1500? hopefully less, current offering at that price
custom tune $300
-------$4570, 330whp
Turbo Kit?
------$??? $450whp
3.8 is much simpler/reliable to make 300whp, it's not considered the "tuner" which means warranty won't be such a problem since you know that the dealer will be more critical with the 2.0t... Yet, the 2.0t may be cheaper to get to 450whp, but not 300whp.
Which to get, which to get?
This isn't a debate thread. This is a thread to try to hammer out what the pricing is to get to what power level on what motor.
If you see anything that may need adjustment, please let me know, and I will consider modifying.
These are meant to be average figures, not low end (I made the intercooler in my back yard), and not high end (I paid someone to give me the best intercooler EVER to handle 2000hp).
Edit: Looks like if you want to be in the 300whp range, then you either pay $6700 on top of the 2.0t price, or you pay $2770 on top of the 3.8 price. Or roughly, $28.7K for 382whp (going base 2.0t $22k plus 6700) or 27.77K for 300whp (going base 3.8 $25K plus $2770). So, essentially, if you mod out (NA stays NA, turbo stays turbo), then you get 82whp for about $1000 more going 2.0t... You could also add cams to the 3.8 and narrow the gap, to only 50whp difference, but then you also paid $500 more for less power than had you gone 2.0t.
Disclaimer:
Dyno's are all different. Some are high-reading, and some are low-reading. It could also be a hot day, or a cold day. High altitude, or low altitude. It could high humidity, or low humidity. It could be a load bearing dyno, and could have an operator that loads the dyno/car differently. It could be a hub dyno, and not a chassis dyno. The temperature sensor could be giving a higher reading than actual, or a lower reading than actual. I think you get what I'm saying. Dyno's are all different.
Edmunds typically reads high numbers on the dyno they used. On the stock 3.8 they dyno'ed 279, and on the stock 2.0t they dyno'ed 197. Those are high readings. If you don't believe me, good luck.
I just went with what is typical, not low (ex. mustang dyno), and not high (ex. dynapack, or the dynojet that Edmund uses)
2.0t, from stock, cost of base model new, $22K, puts down about 175whp stock
Cost to mod 2.0t, and to what power level:
tuner $700 (reflash $500)
intake $220
downpipe/testpipe $200
exhaust $850 Buschur Cat back
----$1970, 234whp (a gencoupe owner has reported that a 3" turbo back exhaust, cold side piping, intake, Waste Gate Actuator, Block off plate and Forge BOV... had taken him from 185whp to 231whp, no tuning, the 234whp number at this level may need to be adjusted to 250whp, although add about $450)
intercooler kit $1k (or just a intercooler if the stock pipes can be used someway)
custom tune $300
----$3270, 250whp
upgrade compressor wheel and bored turbo $700??? Could be more
upgraded injectors $400 (will need 750cc for mid 400whp, so might as well go there)
TiAL BOV w/flange from Buschur $275
custom tune $300
----$4945, 300whp
OR get a turbo kit with everthing preselected: Lovefab Turbo Kit $7200 ($6700 introductory price) gets you 382whp; another coming from 7ism also said to be about $7K
Fuel return line kit $300 (not needed according to lovefab at 382whp)
rod swap $2100 (Buschur Racing has pistons and rods for ~$1400, maybe $700 install, you can also ask Beyond Redline which has a fully built long block:rods, pistons,cams,head work, head studs, could be just as a precaution since the rods are known to be risky, while the others are unknown)
GT3076 $1500
upgraded wastegate $200
Turbo adapter $100?
Walbro 255lph fuel pump $100
custom tune $300
Twin Disc Clutch $800 with install
---- ~$10345 at (Beyond Redline currently at 400whp, could hit 450whp w/more tuning, as predicted they hit 466whp on 8/24)
3.8, from stock, cost of base model new, $25k, puts down about 250whp stock
Cost to mod 3.8, and to what power level:
intake 220
exhaust $850 Buschur Cat back
headers $1k
tuner $700 (reflash $500)
------------$2770, 300whp (a gencoupe owner has reported that ARK headers and Injen CAI has given a 33whp gain alone, the 300whp number at this level may need to be adjusted to 310-320 whp)
cams $1500? hopefully less, current offering at that price
custom tune $300
-------$4570, 330whp
Turbo Kit?
------$??? $450whp
3.8 is much simpler/reliable to make 300whp, it's not considered the "tuner" which means warranty won't be such a problem since you know that the dealer will be more critical with the 2.0t... Yet, the 2.0t may be cheaper to get to 450whp, but not 300whp.
Which to get, which to get?
This isn't a debate thread. This is a thread to try to hammer out what the pricing is to get to what power level on what motor.
If you see anything that may need adjustment, please let me know, and I will consider modifying.
These are meant to be average figures, not low end (I made the intercooler in my back yard), and not high end (I paid someone to give me the best intercooler EVER to handle 2000hp).
Edit: Looks like if you want to be in the 300whp range, then you either pay $6700 on top of the 2.0t price, or you pay $2770 on top of the 3.8 price. Or roughly, $28.7K for 382whp (going base 2.0t $22k plus 6700) or 27.77K for 300whp (going base 3.8 $25K plus $2770). So, essentially, if you mod out (NA stays NA, turbo stays turbo), then you get 82whp for about $1000 more going 2.0t... You could also add cams to the 3.8 and narrow the gap, to only 50whp difference, but then you also paid $500 more for less power than had you gone 2.0t.
Disclaimer:
Dyno's are all different. Some are high-reading, and some are low-reading. It could also be a hot day, or a cold day. High altitude, or low altitude. It could high humidity, or low humidity. It could be a load bearing dyno, and could have an operator that loads the dyno/car differently. It could be a hub dyno, and not a chassis dyno. The temperature sensor could be giving a higher reading than actual, or a lower reading than actual. I think you get what I'm saying. Dyno's are all different.
Edmunds typically reads high numbers on the dyno they used. On the stock 3.8 they dyno'ed 279, and on the stock 2.0t they dyno'ed 197. Those are high readings. If you don't believe me, good luck.
I just went with what is typical, not low (ex. mustang dyno), and not high (ex. dynapack, or the dynojet that Edmund uses)