Oil smells like gas - Genesis Forum: GenCoupe Hyundai Genesis Forums
 
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#1 Old 06-22-2011, 07:53 PM
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Oil smells like gas

i checked my dipstick today and noticed that the oil smells like gas. this is my first time smelling my engine oil. its the kind of smell you get when you're at a gas station. i checked everyone's car in my family and they all smell the same....like gas

is this normal? car runs just fine...
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#2 Old 06-22-2011, 08:17 PM
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for the most part its normal.

Its blowby from the cylinders.
Some of the gas gets past the piston rings and enters the crank case.

It's when you have excessive blowby that you have issues. If you are concerned about it, then just do a compression test.
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#3 Old 06-22-2011, 08:57 PM
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O-ring leaking. happens sometimes also
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#4 Old 06-22-2011, 09:28 PM
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if its been more than 5000km (3125)miles is normal to have a gas smell in the oil BUT if you got you last oil change last week and it smells like that, then you might have a problem.

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#5 Old 06-22-2011, 11:14 PM
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its been 3k since last oil change
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#6 Old 06-23-2011, 12:59 AM
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its normal, but if you are unsure get a compression test ad if it fails take it to the dealer because it should be covered by warranty

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#7 Old 06-23-2011, 01:36 AM
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Garage

Some oils are kerosene based others are paraffin based. They are made from Crude oil, which is where all types of gas ,oils, ect.. are made. It is good thing to check. Some people never check, they just drive until something happens.
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#8 Old 06-23-2011, 02:27 AM
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^ that is totally true but aren't our cars supposed to run with synthetic from factory?

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#9 Old 06-23-2011, 05:00 AM
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Garage

There is nothing in the manual indicating synthetic is required. Hence, I would bet you are getting regular dinosaur oil from the factory and dealer. If you read the manual they provide the minimum standards (SM, GF-3, etc) and the weights. The synthetic requirement is just a rumor not supported by anything Hyundai has published. They did publish a TSB for 3k miles oil changes on the 2.0T, however. They also have one highly recommending the Hyundai oil filter due to the potential for knocking. I got my first oil change at the dealer for free. After that I will run synthetic blend, 5-30w, and change every 3k. If you can afford it or your driving style demands it full synthetic is never a bad choice in my view.

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#10 Old 06-23-2011, 09:10 AM
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im using mobil 1 5w-20. anyways, i went to the dealer today and those service people smelled it and told me its fine. they also let me smell other coupes and they smelled the same. didnt do a compression test though....
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#11 Old 06-23-2011, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TsukubaRed_PA View Post
There is nothing in the manual indicating synthetic is required. Hence, I would bet you are getting regular dinosaur oil from the factory and dealer. If you read the manual they provide the minimum standards (SM, GF-3, etc) and the weights. The synthetic requirement is just a rumor not supported by anything Hyundai has published. They did publish a TSB for 3k miles oil changes on the 2.0T, however. They also have one highly recommending the Hyundai oil filter due to the potential for knocking. I got my first oil change at the dealer for free. After that I will run synthetic blend, 5-30w, and change every 3k. If you can afford it or your driving style demands it full synthetic is never a bad choice in my view.
http://www.hmaservice.com/files/407/...a2mo-eu8da.pdf

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#12 Old 06-23-2011, 09:46 AM
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not the whole regular vs synthetic again. blaaaarrggggg.
tired of explaining this already.

The whole deal with regular and synthetic is that the molecules for synthetic are more uniformed and smaller.
where the misconception of mixing the 2 is from people messing with older cars. With regular, since the molecules are more irregular, its more easy to build up sludge. sludge is from oil mixing with moisture and gas vapor. synthetic can build up sludge, but takes more moisture and gas to do so. When you add synthetic to an OLDER engine that's been using regular for a majority of its life and not well maintained, the the synthetic loosens the sludge that would be hanging around in odd spots. the the chunks of sludge start to float around and clogs crap up.

If you are switching oils on an older engine, you do it slowly, like 1 quart and the rest regular, for the first change and change the ratio for the changes there after until running full synthetic.

With all that explained:
1. these engines aren't old
2. engine comes from the factory with breakin oil, which is regular

And the owners manual link posted, says recommended not required.

Last edited by AKGC; 06-23-2011 at 10:13 AM.
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#13 Old 06-23-2011, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKGC View Post
not the whole regular vs synthetic again. blaaaarrggggg.
tired of explaining this already.

The whole deal with regular and synthetic is that the molecules for synthetic are more uniformed and smaller.
where the misconception of mixing the 2 is from people messing with older cars. With regular, since the molecules are more irregular, its more easy to build up sludge. sludge is from oil mixing with moisture and gas vapor. synthetic can build up sludge, but takes more moisture and gas to do so. When you add synthetic to an OLDER engine that's been using regular for a majority of its life and not well maintained, the the synthetic loosens the sludge that would be hanging around in odd spots. the the chunks of sludge start to float around and clogs crap up.

If you are switching oils on an older engine, you do it slowly, like 1 quart and the rest regular, for the first change and change the ratio for the changes there after until running full synthetic.

With all that explained:
1. these engines aren't old
2. engine comes from the factory with breakin oil, which is regular

And the owners manual link posted, says recommended not required.
Yup I just posted that for reference.
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#14 Old 12-26-2012, 06:48 AM
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Sorry to bring up an old thread, but if I didn't then people would bitch that I didn't use search.....

Anyways, I recently smelled my oil too, and it smells like gas. I read the above posts saying that it's normal, but I don't have a stock car, and was wondering if any of my mods would make a difference in this.

My car has a BR reflash, and they are known to run pretty rich. I have a cat-less o2 housing, and catless DP, and my exhaust kinda backfires when I'm not getting on it hard and let off the gas. Im planning on getting an AEM wideband, but with the holidays and all that I don't have the money right this second.

In short, my question is; Can the car run rich enough to dilute the oil with gas and cause serious issues down the road? Also, is there any way to test the oil that is in there and see if the viscosity is where it should be?

2010 KW GC Track 2.0

Current
Stock again.....
cp-e SRI
uNavi
Forge BOV
ISC Coilovers/garageline spacers
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#15 Old 12-26-2012, 07:51 AM
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Garage

You can have your oil tested. I don't think that is too pricey. My car is basically stock and I do not have oil that smells like gas. I am a pretty sedate driver too...not a lot of boost. I think if you go into boost a lot you go richer and get more blow-by IIRC. I have gone to full synthetic oil and have started to extend my change intervals to 4k because the oil stays pretty clean. Obviously if you drive hard or track that all changes.

2011 Base 2.0T, 5AT
OEM Trunk Lip Spoiler, OEM Fog Lights
Rear Wing Badge / Blackened Front Logo
Garage Line 22mm Rear Sway Bar
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Saikou Michi Catch Can - Intake
JEGS Oil Separator - Turbo
K&N Panel Filter
TB Coolant Bypass
Dynamat Hoodliner
Infinity Kappa 62.11 Rear Speakers
Warranty: New Tails


2013 Elantra GT, 6AT (hers)
Fully loaded - no mods yet

-- previous rides --
Salsa Red 2004 Vibe GT
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