PLEASE READ AT LEAST THE NUMBERED PARTS WITH THE BASIC INFO ABOUT PLASTI-DIP BEFORE POSTING!
Or I will call you an idiot and laugh at your stupidity. Just saying..
Alright, so after my last thread got out of control and needed to be updated with more info on Plasti-Dip in an easier to access manner, I decided to remake a PDip thread.
So here are a few things about Plasti-Dip:
1. It is removable without damaging your car or w/e surface you choose to put it on. (You can either peel it off or use something like Goo-Gone, Goo-Off, Nail polish remover, WD-40, or Gasoline.)
2. It is VERY durable despite what others might have told you, and will not tear, peel, or nic easily, and holds up very well against heat and freezing temperatures.
3. It comes in a variety of colors, including all the primary colors such as Red, Green, Blue, Yellow, White, and Black. They now offer a clear coat and metallic color as well as a couple new options. You can buy it as some autopart stores and places like Lowes and Homedepot but normally you will just find White or Black cans of spray and black canisters, or just order it here ->DYC Home - Plasti Dip For Your Car - Resources & More at DipYourCar.com NEW Glossifier
4. You can PDip pretty much anything, you can go as far as to PDip your whole car.
5. The texture is more matte then gloss and depending on how far away you hold the can or sprayer, determines how much of a gloss or matte finish it will have, but it will always be a matte finish unless you clear coat it. Holding the can closer will give you a less matte feel and holding it futher will give you more of a matte feel.
6. Unless you use a product like the ones in #1, you don't have to worry about taking your car to the carwash or using any type of tire shine or cleaner on the PDip, it won't just wash off.
7. You do not need to sand or prep any surface you plan to spray it on, other than maybe using some alcohol to clean the surface and make sure there is no oil, dirt, or bug guts on it.
8. To do a set of wheels you will need about 4 cans, normally 3 but it's always nice to have a little left over for touch ups and such.
9. Do not use a cleaning cloth with a bunch of fibers on them, like a towel, only because it will leave a bunch of those fibers stuck to the wheel and are a pain in the ass to get off.
10. If you plan to use PDip through a sprayer, you need to dilute it or buy the pre-diluted PDip from another source, like the website I linked above. PDip will not go through a spray gun, it's too thick.
Here are some examples of what you can do(Taken from original thread which you can find here -> http://www.gencoupe.com/diy-do-yours...ims-wip-6.html
How my car used to look, the stitches are PDip too.
Mikeyglowhands: White wheels
andrusk: Badges and Wheels
WildCat27: Wheels, Roof, In-versed Hood Bodylines, Gas Door, Mirrors, Tails, and Lip.
Now for the DIY part....
These pic's are from the original thread and are from different users that I am re-posting here for better organization! P.s. These are going to be condensed versions, if you don't know how to remove your wheel then I suggest looking that up before trying to take it off..
Wheels, off the Car:
You need a 1-2 Decks of playing cards or Index Cards for this DIY.
I decided to start with a quick shot around the back of the wheel while I was peeling off the other wheels. Doesn't need to be thick, and doesnt need to go all the way across the lip of the wheel, as you don't see much.
You will get some overspray onto the front of the wheel. You MUST wipe this off, or your first coat will be uneven as its being laid on top of a speckled surface.
One coat, just to blend the front/back:
Using index cards this time, playing cards work as well. Propping them up at a slight angle I found helps avoid too much running while also allowing me to hold the can at a better angle.
Coat #1: you want a pretty thin layer, about 50% transparency. Don't cover the entire thing right now, it will get covered, don't worry. Make sure to use smooth strokes, and treat it as any other spray paint, releasing the trigger on the ends of your passes, then pressing and moving back over the surface. Get inside all of the gaps in the spokes on EVERY coat, or you'll end up looking like my first attempt. Keep the can (assuming an aerosol) as right-side-up as possible to avoid uneven sprays.
KEEP THE CAN AT 5-7" AWAY RFOM THE SURFACE. ANY CLOSER AND IT WILL BE VERY RUNNY AND LOOK LIKE ASS, AND ANY FURTHER IT WILL GET VERY TEXTURED AND GRAINY. Ok, caps lock rage over.
Coats #2-5: Repeat the process. Don't go too thick on any coat, or you'll get some running. Allow 15-20 minutes between coats, leaving them IN THE SHADE. Avoid windy areas as dust will attract to the surface and you're screwed.
Allow ample drying time after the last coat. Once the last coat is dry enough to move the wheel, you can roll it out into the sun to let them "bake" a little longer, for about 20-30 minutes. This is also your chance to look over the wheels to see any imperfections that you can fix NOW vs. after you install the wheel and see it. So, when you're done, think if you're reallllly done.
Don't get too anxious to put the wheels on, you run the risk of scratching the surface with the lugs, your four-way, or anything else during the install process.
Baking in the sun after 5 solid coats:
Yes. remove the center cap. Either don't paint it at all, or paint it separately. Keeping it on the wheel will result in any running Plasti-Dip to be collected in the center of the wheel, which will lead to a very thick goo-like center cap coat.
Install: Just the reverse of taking the wheel off, just be really careful to not hit the wheel with anything during install. AND KEEP YOUR GRIMEY HANDS OFF THE WHEEL AT ALL TIMES!!! Finger prints will show up very easily for a while and will be hard to clean later on.
Afterward: DO NOT WASH, WIPE, OR THINK ABOUT WASHING AND WIPING THE WHEELS FOR AT LEAST 2 DAYS. Let them cure. If you wipe them before then, you will leave fibers from the cloth in the surface, and they will be there for eternity. Try to avoid driving the car the rest of the day / night, to let them cure without any road contaminants.
Once you can clean them, a simple detail spray and microfiber cloth will work just fine. When applying tire shine to the tires, try to avoid any drippage onto the wheels, and if it does drip, just wipe it up before it dries. You wont ruin the Plasti-Dip, but you will see the tire shine on the wheel and will have to clean the wheel.
If everything was done correctly, they should last for a very long time (like several months before you even have to think about redoing them).
CantFindMeHaha: Wheels On-Car
I'll leave this area for how I do the on-car wheel painting. I need to get better shots with light.
CantFindMeHaha: Mirriors, On-Car:
1. Clean the bugg crap off your Mirrors.
2. Cover the car with a blanket or sheet, something to keep the PDip from getting it.
3. Line the rim of the mirror with painters tape and block off the mirror so no paint can spray through(You can wipe it off if it does.) And yes I realize my taping wasn't the greatest, but the lines came out straight like they were supposed too! =P I got lazy... it's PDip so I don't care as much lol.
4. There are three different adjustment positions to work with, I started in this one.
I sprayed the inner are of the mirrors base first and then pushed the mirror towards the car and got the back half of the base nearest the car.
When you adjust the mirror it won't rub against anything to disturb the paint, but this are takes the longest to dry.
Then I just put the mirror in it normal position and sprayed normally making sure to get all the edges that showed any red.
I don't have pictures of the painting process.. sorry =/
Here is a before and after though =)
This pic is of the center piece of the bottom front lip that I had painted, sorry no DIY for it, but you just mask the body lines with painter's tape and cover the rest of the exposed part of the lip with a blanket of news paper.
Alright, so that's enough work on this for now, I'll keep updating this as more DIY's come a long.