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post #181 of 3020 Old 11-09-2014, 10:52 AM
JGM
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SFR stage 1 tune, Forge bov and 1 step colder plugs
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post #182 of 3020 Old 11-09-2014, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
Why so serious, Bro?
 
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Why are you running 1 step colder plugs?

2013 Becketts Black 2.0T R Spec
BTRcc Custom Tuned
310 whp/375 wtq @ 27 PSI Water/meth injected


"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits.”

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post #183 of 3020 Old 11-09-2014, 10:53 AM
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And intake
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post #184 of 3020 Old 11-09-2014, 10:54 AM
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Jay suggested it when I got the tune
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post #185 of 3020 Old 11-09-2014, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
Why so serious, Bro?
 
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Not that it matters, but you wasted your money there. Do this... zero out your knock counter... idle the car and tell me how many knocks it registers.

2013 Becketts Black 2.0T R Spec
BTRcc Custom Tuned
310 whp/375 wtq @ 27 PSI Water/meth injected


"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits.”

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post #186 of 3020 Old 11-09-2014, 10:58 AM
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I'll try it after work and post back
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post #187 of 3020 Old 11-09-2014, 11:01 AM
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this may be a stupid question but i have a 2013 2.0 premium AT and my driver rear inner cv boot is blown i was told i would probablyy have to replace the entire axle. Is this true? or could i just replace the cv joint and boot? Also is the axle the same for the 2012 as with the 2013 hyundai hasn't released the patent for the 13 axles so there there is 0 availability besides going to a dealer that i have found. any help with this would be great so far nothing is grinding or making a issue but i only assume its a matter of time before something gets in the bearing and causes more damage and since this is my daily driver, that would suck.

2013 2.0T Auto
Current Shenanigans:
TSUDO full turbo Back
Depo O2 housing w/2nd cat delete
JDM Lowering Springs
Injen sri
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post #188 of 3020 Old 11-09-2014, 01:44 PM
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Is the 10-12 3.8L bottom end the same as the 13-15 3.8L bottom end? The only difference being direct injected? Is the direct injection in the head or block?

Wondering if I could use the 10-12 block to build for my 13 turbo set up?
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post #189 of 3020 Old 11-09-2014, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fr3nchy524 View Post
Is the 10-12 3.8L bottom end the same as the 13-15 3.8L bottom end? The only difference being direct injected? Is the direct injection in the head or block?

Wondering if I could use the 10-12 block to build for my 13 turbo set up?
Cylinder walls are thinner on the 10-12, pistons are different, I'm sure there are other minor differences as well, they are not the same. Direct injection is in the heads.

2013 3.8 Track Pearl White

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post #190 of 3020 Old 11-09-2014, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GenCoupeGeek View Post
Not that it matters, but you wasted your money there. Do this... zero out your knock counter... idle the car and tell me how many knocks it registers.
Tried it and still get the same reading
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post #191 of 3020 Old 11-09-2014, 04:56 PM
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i have a question. I have the ptuning turbo kit. And with the kit it came with the intercooler well...the intercooler wont let me put my fog light bezels in. or the foglight itself cause its pushing on the front bumper so my question is will the turboxs intercooler be better?
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post #192 of 3020 Old 11-09-2014, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
Why so serious, Bro?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JGM View Post
Tried it and still get the same reading
You should not be getting any knocks at idle.

2013 Becketts Black 2.0T R Spec
BTRcc Custom Tuned
310 whp/375 wtq @ 27 PSI Water/meth injected


"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits.”

~Albert Einstein
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post #193 of 3020 Old 11-09-2014, 06:17 PM
...4, 3, 2, 1
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12_R-Spec View Post
i have a question. I have the ptuning turbo kit. And with the kit it came with the intercooler well...the intercooler wont let me put my fog light bezels in. or the foglight itself cause its pushing on the front bumper so my question is will the turboxs intercooler be better?
I haven't heard of any firment issues with the txs kit.
There's a thread on here somewhere from txs with tons of pics.

...edit; here you go!
TurboXS Genesis 2.0T Front Mount Intercooler Kit Now Shipping!

2010 Acqua Minerale Blue
2.0T 6MT
Ultimate Racing SRI
Ultimate Racing Down Pipe / Test Pipe
CPe Catback
TurboXS RFL-cold side
AP Clutch Line
Uniq Rigid Collars
Eibach Sportline
Eibach F/R Sway Bars
OEM Strut Bar
BBM Spoiler
JCS Pod
ProSport EVO Boost & Wideband
'13 clutch
Megan tranny mount
Varrstoen ES2 (white)
255/35/19x9.5 +22
275/35/19x10.5 +22


-Built by 10Fintec
-Tuned by BTR
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post #194 of 3020 Old 11-10-2014, 11:39 AM
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Hey Geek, I have a question for you.

Now before I get into this, I know that the best solution right now would be to just go to a mechanic and have them look at it, but I'm trying to consider my options before I shell out cash for a dealership to try and replace all my filters. Also, this situation is embarrassing but I must swallow my pride and get this fixed lol.

So about 6 months ago I was driving in the middle of a tornado producing storm, just trying to get home before sh*t got real (which I failed at miserably). First turn out of the parking lot I misjudges a small lake for a puddle and I'm pretty sure (99%) I submerged my CAI. My car shut itself off and wouldn't start for like 5 minutes. I probably made the situation worse by continuously trying to start it. I was panicking because a 'nado had just touched down about two miles from me. Anyway, it turned over but something sounded like it was rotating too slow, then picked up and ran. I drove it a couple dozen yards to park it and let it sit overnight and called a friend.

It hasn't run the same since. A CEL came on and it idols pretty rough, it will just dip down to under 500 rpms, then kick back up. It does this constantly. Also, when I hold her at about 2250 RPMs it starts to sputter. I have had two instances where the CEL started blinking and car went haywire, I shut-er-down waited about five minutes and she started right back up.

So, now my question: I think I have it down to two possible problems, either my mass airflow sensor is soaked and needs cleaning/replacement, I really hope this is the case. The other scenario I am seeing I could run into is that I could have bent a rod ((. I live in an apt right now so working on my car, even something as minimal as cleaning my mass airflow sensor is a pain in the ass, especially without a hood prop. I know I could do a compression test to see if a rod is bent but hyundai is quoting my $300+ for a compression test.

Would my car still run for 6 months with a bent rod? Is that a normal price for a compression test? Is there other symptoms I could look for? Should I just clean my mass airflow sensor instead of asking you dumb questions?

Thanks in advance for any input. I know I'm an idiot, but you can't fix stupid.

2010 Bathurst Black 6MT 3.8


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post #195 of 3020 Old 11-10-2014, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by nick3913 View Post
Random question! Do you think you could fit 4, 19" rims w/tires between your trunk and backseat? Haha

Might drive three hours to buy some work wheels and I'd hate to find out I could only fit three in my car :\
When I bought my car I fit 4 20" wheels with tires in it without using the trunk at all. Had to throw one up in the passenger seat. Im sure you could do it.

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post #196 of 3020 Old 11-10-2014, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
Why so serious, Bro?
 
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@WhoaBlackGenny ...

Stuff happens sometimes. If you ever get into a situation again where you may have sucked water into your engine and you need to get up and go quickly... the best thing to do is pull your plugs and crank the engine until water stops coming out. This move could save your rods assuming the car quit before any real damage was done.

With regard to how long a car can run on a bent rod.... ummm... theoretically forever... or it could quit on you the very next time you start your car. If it runs, I would definitely not be doing any hard pulls or putting the rod under any kind of stress if you can help it.

You can get another quote for a compression test... or build your own tester and do it yourself. If you don't have a lot of money, just head on down to Harbor Freight and pick up their compression tester for about $28. You and another person could do a compression test in your parking lot in a relatively short period of time. You can find some pretty detailed instructions on how to do one here: Compression Testing

If you have a low pressure reading on one or more cylinders... you have a problem. Maybe it's a bent rod... maybe it's a broken ringland. There's only so much you can fault isolate in a parking lot... but at least you'll know if in fact it's a hardware issue with the piston/rings/rod.

Have you gotten the CEL scanned to find out what it's related to?

2013 Becketts Black 2.0T R Spec
BTRcc Custom Tuned
310 whp/375 wtq @ 27 PSI Water/meth injected


"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits.”

~Albert Einstein
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post #197 of 3020 Old 11-10-2014, 12:36 PM
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I had the codes pulled but "they are related the the A/M intake." -Dealership Shop Manager. If you want I can post them up. Do you think there is even a chance of it just being my mass airflow sensor? It just seems like with the rough idol and the sputtering at 2250 RPM that the car can't figure out how much fuel to add. Just a guess, I know a lot about cars in general, but I'm not necessarily mechanically inclined.

Thanks again for your help!

2010 Bathurst Black 6MT 3.8


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post #198 of 3020 Old 11-10-2014, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
Why so serious, Bro?
 
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It might be.... but I doubt it. A dirty MAF will affect your entire power range and your gas mileage noticeably.

A faulty mass airflow sensor will cause problems similar to low compression or low vacuum, and will also show symptoms similar to when your vehicle has low fuel pressure from a faulty fuel pump. Here are some of the most common symptoms of a faulty mass airflow sensor:

The engine is very hard to start or turn over
The engine stalls shortly after starting
The engine hesitates or drags while under load or idle
Hesitation and jerking during acceleration
The engine hiccups
Excessively rich or lean idling

You can try to clean it... I'm guessing that is not your problem, though.

2013 Becketts Black 2.0T R Spec
BTRcc Custom Tuned
310 whp/375 wtq @ 27 PSI Water/meth injected


"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits.”

~Albert Einstein
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post #199 of 3020 Old 11-10-2014, 12:45 PM
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See that's one thing I forgot to mention! My gas milage is wayyyyyy worse. I cant get better than 18 mpg on the highway, when I usually get 25+.

2010 Bathurst Black 6MT 3.8


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post #200 of 3020 Old 11-10-2014, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
Why so serious, Bro?
 
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There's also the possibility that you have multiple issues going on at the same time causing multiple symptoms that don't add up to just one problem.

The only way I know for sure to check for a bent connecting rod is to remove it from the engine and inspect it.

Here's the other issue that you may face... that is that the bent rod has stressed the cam and you end up having to buy another set of cams too.

Hydrolock can get expensive quick. Depending on how much water you sucked into your engine, even just trying to start it would be enough to bend the crap out of your rods if they weren't bent already. I feel your pain, but I'm afraid that the fix here might run out your pocketbook for a while.

2013 Becketts Black 2.0T R Spec
BTRcc Custom Tuned
310 whp/375 wtq @ 27 PSI Water/meth injected


"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits.”

~Albert Einstein
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