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post #2921 of 2993 Old 01-04-2017, 08:18 AM
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post #2922 of 2993 Old 01-04-2017, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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That's a question that you'll get 100 different answers for, but I would probably recommend a 0W-40 or a 0W30 full synthetic oil. I've been running LiquiMoly of late and have had really good results with it. The key here is the "W" number, which stands for "winter". Zero is about as low as it goes... which means that it will most likely continue to flow even when temps drop below zero (C). The second number is the weight of the oil when it's hot... so whatever you use during the summer you should use during the winter (ex. if you use 5W30 in the summer... then use 0W30 in the winter). Make sure whatever oil you use meets the minimum certification requirements as specified in your users manual.

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post #2923 of 2993 Old 01-05-2017, 08:52 AM
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Is it possible to wire my HID fog light kit to my stock fog light switch that's on my steering stalk?
Mine is like that but I also use the OEM wiring which has a relay. I did take the multifunction switch connector off (the side for the fog light switch) and cut the looped wire, then grounded it. This lets them be on anytime the key is in run yet switched on and off by the OE switch.

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post #2924 of 2993 Old 01-06-2017, 10:59 PM
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Is it possible to identify key start vs a push start when buying a used ECU? Or are they all the same part # and the ignition is what matters? Not quite sure how the immobilizer system works. Tried looking around, I thought I saw a post before in one of the tuning threads, but didn't find jack.

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post #2925 of 2993 Old 01-07-2017, 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by titan2782 View Post
Is it possible to identify key start vs a push start when buying a used ECU? Or are they all the same part # and the ignition is what matters? Not quite sure how the immobilizer system works. Tried looking around, I thought I saw a post before in one of the tuning threads, but didn't find jack.
You can search here for the ECU then dig through the various flavors of them. This is for the 2010

2010 Hyundai Genesis Coupe ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT (ECU) (2.0L-THETA FR)

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post #2926 of 2993 Old 01-07-2017, 11:21 AM
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You can search here for the ECU then dig through the various flavors of them. This is for the 2010

2010 Hyundai Genesis Coupe ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT (ECU) (2.0L-THETA FR)
looks like they are all the same part #, but are listed as ECU or ECU (immobilizer). Is the immobilizer a separate module or built into the ECU?

Car: 2014 3.8 R-Spec 326HP/290TQ (89* temps, 91 octane)
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NST pulleys, K&N Drop in, coolant bypass, Phenolic Spacer, IAT relocate & shave,
better ground mod, modified stock airbox
Grip: Engine leash, Megan trans mount, 235/35/19 (F) 255/35/19 (R) Hankook V12, EBC Yellow pads

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post #2927 of 2993 Old 01-07-2017, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by titan2782 View Post
looks like they are all the same part #, but are listed as ECU or ECU (immobilizer). Is the immobilizer a separate module or built into the ECU?
The drawings show a number that you have to use to find the actual part numbers. The 2010 has 4 ECUs

39110 is from the drawing but that leads to the long part numbers.

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File Type: jpg ECU part nymbers 2010.jpg (47.5 KB, 77 views)

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post #2928 of 2993 Old 01-07-2017, 12:44 PM
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right, saw that after i posted. I saw "stock #" when viewing on my phone and thought it was the internal inventory # for that site, but on my desktop it shows differently and doing a search for the part # seems to be what is needed. Thanks.
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Perf: SFR Custom Tune, 80mm TB, PnP manifolds, Ark GRiP v2 CBE + test pipes,
NST pulleys, K&N Drop in, coolant bypass, Phenolic Spacer, IAT relocate & shave,
better ground mod, modified stock airbox
Grip: Engine leash, Megan trans mount, 235/35/19 (F) 255/35/19 (R) Hankook V12, EBC Yellow pads

Car: 2005 SRT-4 ACR
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post #2929 of 2993 Old 01-17-2017, 07:56 PM
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Are there any such thing as a deeper recessed fog light dust cap?

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post #2930 of 2993 Old 01-17-2017, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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Short Answer: No.

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post #2931 of 2993 Old 01-17-2017, 09:32 PM
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Do you know the part number to the dust cover for the fogs?
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post #2932 of 2993 Old 01-18-2017, 05:53 PM Thread Starter
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9216339000

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310 whp/375 wtq @ 27 PSI Water/meth injected


"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits.”

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post #2933 of 2993 Old 01-23-2017, 10:54 AM
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I've PnP'd two 2.0T manifolds now and I'm starting to wonder about this information



Based on what I've seen inside the manifold, 2 & 3 are straight through, and seem to be wider than 1 & 4 since 1 & 4 has some kind of ledge up inside the plenum area which looks like is causing a choke point. 2 & 4 are right in the path of the air flow.

Is there any other data to support that 2 & 3 are the low CFM ports? Or can someone school me on why 2 & 3 are low flowing?

Car: 2014 3.8 R-Spec 326HP/290TQ (89* temps, 91 octane)
Perf: SFR Custom Tune, 80mm TB, PnP manifolds, Ark GRiP v2 CBE + test pipes,
NST pulleys, K&N Drop in, coolant bypass, Phenolic Spacer, IAT relocate & shave,
better ground mod, modified stock airbox
Grip: Engine leash, Megan trans mount, 235/35/19 (F) 255/35/19 (R) Hankook V12, EBC Yellow pads

Car: 2005 SRT-4 ACR
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post #2934 of 2993 Old 01-23-2017, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by titan2782 View Post
I've PnP'd two 2.0T manifolds now and I'm starting to wonder about this information



Based on what I've seen inside the manifold, 2 & 3 are straight through, and seem to be wider than 1 & 4 since 1 & 4 has some kind of ledge up inside the plenum area which looks like is causing a choke point. 2 & 4 are right in the path of the air flow.

Is there any other data to support that 2 & 3 are the low CFM ports? Or can someone school me on why 2 & 3 are low flowing?
Did you flow it after porting?

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post #2935 of 2993 Old 01-23-2017, 11:42 AM
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Did you flow it after porting?
I don't have a way to flow them. The first one I ported all 4 runners because someone before me damaged them trying to do it themselves, but this last one the customer requested I do it like GS and only port runners 2 & 3 to improve the flow balance. I brought the runners out to 52mm ID.

But based on what i can see inside the manifold, it looks like runners 1 & 4 would be the problem, so I'm asking if there is any more info on why 1 & 4 flow better than 2 & 3.

Car: 2014 3.8 R-Spec 326HP/290TQ (89* temps, 91 octane)
Perf: SFR Custom Tune, 80mm TB, PnP manifolds, Ark GRiP v2 CBE + test pipes,
NST pulleys, K&N Drop in, coolant bypass, Phenolic Spacer, IAT relocate & shave,
better ground mod, modified stock airbox
Grip: Engine leash, Megan trans mount, 235/35/19 (F) 255/35/19 (R) Hankook V12, EBC Yellow pads

Car: 2005 SRT-4 ACR
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post #2936 of 2993 Old 01-23-2017, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by titan2782 View Post
I don't have a way to flow them. The first one I ported all 4 runners because someone before me damaged them trying to do it themselves, but this last one the customer requested I do it like GS and only port runners 2 & 3 to improve the flow balance. I brought the runners out to 52mm ID.

But based on what i can see inside the manifold, it looks like runners 1 & 4 would be the problem, so I'm asking if there is any more info on why 1 & 4 flow better than 2 & 3.
I could flow one runner at a time on the bench here but I can't produce enough vacuum to flow all 4 properly.
It may be that the divider is helping to decrease turbulence since the ends could be getting circular flow due to their perpendicular location in the source flow.
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post #2937 of 2993 Old 01-23-2017, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Ryengoth View Post
I could flow one runner at a time on the bench here but I can't produce enough vacuum to flow all 4 properly.
It may be that the divider is helping to decrease turbulence since the ends could be getting circular flow due to their perpendicular location in the source flow.
I don't have any 2.0 cores yet. Once I get one, I'll PM you.

Car: 2014 3.8 R-Spec 326HP/290TQ (89* temps, 91 octane)
Perf: SFR Custom Tune, 80mm TB, PnP manifolds, Ark GRiP v2 CBE + test pipes,
NST pulleys, K&N Drop in, coolant bypass, Phenolic Spacer, IAT relocate & shave,
better ground mod, modified stock airbox
Grip: Engine leash, Megan trans mount, 235/35/19 (F) 255/35/19 (R) Hankook V12, EBC Yellow pads

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post #2938 of 2993 Old 01-24-2017, 06:54 AM Thread Starter
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Some anecdotal evidence for you...

If you are going to blow an engine due to lean conditions.... #4 is the most likely cylinder to go lean. I've done it myself and did a teardown. The result: #4 went lean enough to burn through the piston. 2 & 3 looked perfect. #1 had hot spots.

#4 makes sense to me due to the way the air comes into the plenum. The air comes in and slams to the back of the plenum feeding #4 with more air than the other cylinders. #1 doesn't make much sense, but it does run leaner than 2 & 3... but with that said, by how much is anyone's guess.

The best aftermarket intake design that I've seen changes the plenum shape to reduce how much air is fed to the #4 ... of course, this doesn't really address how much air is being fed to the #1 . Ideally, the air should come in as parallel to the runners as possible to ensure the cleanest flow; however, the design of the engine and the engine bay doesn't really allow for that, so we are pretty much stuck with what we have.
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post #2939 of 2993 Old 01-24-2017, 07:35 AM
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I was thinking the exact same thing, #4 looks like it would be bad but not 1 since it in direct line of sight of the incoming air.

Wish i had better tools and more knowledge of fluid dynamics to really test this stuff out

Car: 2014 3.8 R-Spec 326HP/290TQ (89* temps, 91 octane)
Perf: SFR Custom Tune, 80mm TB, PnP manifolds, Ark GRiP v2 CBE + test pipes,
NST pulleys, K&N Drop in, coolant bypass, Phenolic Spacer, IAT relocate & shave,
better ground mod, modified stock airbox
Grip: Engine leash, Megan trans mount, 235/35/19 (F) 255/35/19 (R) Hankook V12, EBC Yellow pads

Car: 2005 SRT-4 ACR
Status: Faster than your Genesis
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post #2940 of 2993 Old 01-24-2017, 08:28 AM Thread Starter
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The problem is bad enough to where even porting and polishing the intake will not fix it at high boost levels. When I burned through my #4 piston, it was using a Grimmspeed PnP'd intake. While the intake did some good, I believe my saving grace was my water/meth injection. Since the water/meth mixture is injected and mixed at the throttle body, it will follow the airflow in the plenum. If more air gets into the #4 , more water/meth gets into the #4 as well... essentially balancing the air fuel mixture and cooling the over pressurized cylinder allowing for a greater safety range. It was only when the water/meth line disconnected that I ran lean on the #4 and burned through it in short order (this happened quite fast). The problem I had was that my AFRs never went into an "unsafe" range... but that was because it was measuring the combined exhaust of all four cylinders as opposed to each cylinder.

Bottom line... short of a complete redesign of the intake, it is what it is. Typically for stock boost pressure, the imbalance isn't something that will typically grenade your engine; however, a slight imbalance at stock boost pressures are exponentially amplified at higher boost pressures. Thus, the problem is amplified. The easiest solution is to use water/meth to balance the air/fuel mixture to work with the imbalance rather than trying to correct it; however, the risk is that if you rely on water/meth injection to provide you with a safeguard, you always have to have it. Even a short duration of heavy boost without your spray can result in a catastrophic engine failure.

My mistake was running water/meth at high boost pressures (27 PSI) without an adequate failsafe to guard against a failure. After I finish my rebuild, I will be correcting that problem by installing a failsafe so that if I lose my water/meth injection, I will not be able to build boost. An indicator is not enough to adequately avoid a failure as it doesn't take very long at all to build up sufficient heat in a cylinder to prevent a failure.
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