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post #21 of 2932 Old 08-23-2014, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GenCoupeGeek View Post
Downshifting or engine braking not only saves gas but also saves wear and tear on your brake pads. If you have an AFR gauge you'll notice that when you let up off the gas pedal and the throttle closes, your AFR increases to +20. If any gas were introduced into the cylinder with the throttle plate closed your AFR would drop dramatically because there would be relatively little air being mixed with the fuel. At idle your AFR is probably sitting around 16.

Aside from that, you may notice that in many states/countries it is illegal to coast your car in neutral while driving. Driving with your car out of gear can be a dangerous practice if you have to accelerate quickly. In low traction situations choosing the wrong gear for the speed you are traveling can cause the wheels to break traction and lose control of the vehicle.

http://www.greencarcongress.com/2014...19-ronkko.html

I had a debate about about engine braking on my vauxhall forum. There point was that if you downshift and use the motor to brake it will cost more down the road to replace a clutch more then brake pads. Apperantly if your always downshifting your wearin your clutch as much as your brakes?

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post #22 of 2932 Old 08-23-2014, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by GenCoupeGeek View Post
If you are on coilovers OEM endlink will be too long. You either need HSD endlinks or adjustable endlinks to make it right.

These hsd models I got are meant to work with oem endlinks

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post #23 of 2932 Old 08-23-2014, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GenesisGen2 View Post
I had a debate about about engine braking on my vauxhall forum. There point was that if you downshift and use the motor to brake it will cost more down the road to replace a clutch more then brake pads. Apperantly if your always downshifting your wearin your clutch as much as your brakes?
If you rev match, the wear is negligible. Once the clutch is fully engaged there's no wear.

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post #24 of 2932 Old 08-23-2014, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
Why so serious, Bro?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GenesisGen2 View Post
These hsd models I got are meant to work with oem endlinks
Try using the adjustable endlink to take the stress off the link when the car is static.

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post #25 of 2932 Old 08-23-2014, 10:52 PM
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Long time lurker, first time poster.

Question: I was at a dealership last night and found a base 2013 GenCoupe AT with 16k miles on it for 18,200. There was a small dent, probably the size of a golf ball on the passenger side door and when I asked about it, they told me they could sell me the car as is for 17600, so my question....is this worth it or should I be asking for a bigger discount on this coupe?

Btw this dealership owns its own test track and taking that coupe on that track was a blast.
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post #26 of 2932 Old 08-23-2014, 11:41 PM Thread Starter
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That would all depend on the trim level. Was it a 2.0 or a 3.8? Base, R-Spec, Premium, GT, or Track?

Generally speaking, $17,6 would be a pretty good deal on a '13 regardless of trim level for a car that was in like new or good condition. The real question is, do you feel like it's a good deal? The one thing I'd be concerned about is if it was a high trim level at that price. Most days when you run into a deal that seems too good to be true... it is. I would definitely ask a LOT of questions before committing.

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post #27 of 2932 Old 08-23-2014, 11:50 PM
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I'm sorry, guess I was in a hurry, but the trim was just the 2.0t base. I thought the price seemed good but I just wasn't sure if there would have been any kind of wiggle room from the price this dealer gave me because of the small dent to the door. Either way thanks for getting back to me so quickly.
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post #28 of 2932 Old 08-24-2014, 12:09 AM
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Best vacuum line to seafoam the 2.0t to all cylinders?

I'm at 31k on my 13 2.0t rspec, and i'm interested in seafoaming the motor. I've done it many times in the past on other cars, but this car has so many lines it feels like. Which vacuum line would be the best to seafoam that would go to all 4 cylinders?

I don't want to put seafoam in the wrong line and only clean out 1 or 2 cylinders, so if someone can post up a pic, and use paint or something to indicate which line would be the best to seafoam, i'd greatly appreciate it!

Thanks!
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post #29 of 2932 Old 08-24-2014, 01:01 AM
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Suspension tourque specs needed asap!

I'm installing my sport line springs tomorow and need all the torque specs for the bolts required in this installation. Thanks gencoupe community for any help y'all can give me
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post #30 of 2932 Old 08-24-2014, 05:45 AM Thread Starter
Why so serious, Bro?
 
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I'm installing my sport line springs tomorow and need all the torque specs for the bolts required in this installation. Thanks gencoupe community for any help y'all can give me
Here's the part where I do some enabling. Follow this link to download the shop manual for your car: Snoopy's Bookshelf

While you are there, say "Thank you" to Snoopy for providing such an awesome resource out of the kindness of his heart.
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Last edited by GenCoupeGeek; 08-24-2014 at 06:07 AM.
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post #31 of 2932 Old 08-24-2014, 05:50 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamk126 View Post
I'm at 31k on my 13 2.0t rspec, and i'm interested in seafoaming the motor. I've done it many times in the past on other cars, but this car has so many lines it feels like. Which vacuum line would be the best to seafoam that would go to all 4 cylinders?

I don't want to put seafoam in the wrong line and only clean out 1 or 2 cylinders, so if someone can post up a pic, and use paint or something to indicate which line would be the best to seafoam, i'd greatly appreciate it!

Thanks!
Try finding your answer here: Sea Foam ... just checking
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2013 Becketts Black 2.0T R Spec
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"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits.”

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post #32 of 2932 Old 08-24-2014, 10:12 AM
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This thread delivers.
Great idea GCG. +1M internetz to you :thumbup:

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post #33 of 2932 Old 08-24-2014, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prepster View Post
I'm sorry, guess I was in a hurry, but the trim was just the 2.0t base. I thought the price seemed good but I just wasn't sure if there would have been any kind of wiggle room from the price this dealer gave me because of the small dent to the door. Either way thanks for getting back to me so quickly.
I would try for 16-17 plus them fixing the dent

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post #34 of 2932 Old 08-24-2014, 11:35 AM
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Great idea for a thread, you should sticky a thread with a link to it in the general discussion section and all of the tech sections!

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post #35 of 2932 Old 08-24-2014, 07:24 PM
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Looking to buy a 2011 3.8 GT white with 47k miles. The front bumper is broken and need to be fully replaced ( 500$ from hyundai) and spoiler needs to be repainted due to paint peeling. Owner asking 18000. What you guys think?
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post #36 of 2932 Old 08-24-2014, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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Prices vary depending on what part of the country (or what country) you are in, demand, condition of the car, time of the month, and I'm pretty sure that the alignment of Venus and Mars plays into it. Go to KBB.com and run the car's specs and it will give you fair market value for that car for your area.
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Last edited by GenCoupeGeek; 08-24-2014 at 07:53 PM.
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post #37 of 2932 Old 08-24-2014, 09:48 PM
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I checked that link out, and researched others as well. They're very informative, but do not illustrate which vacuum line is the best for the purpose of seafoam
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post #38 of 2932 Old 08-24-2014, 10:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GenCoupeGeek View Post
Prices vary depending on what part of the country (or what country) you are in, demand, condition of the car, time of the month, and I'm pretty sure that the alignment of Venus and Mars plays into it. Go to KBB.com and run the car's specs and it will give you fair market value for that car for your area.
Its only when mercury is in retrograde.

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post #39 of 2932 Old 08-25-2014, 07:16 AM Thread Starter
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post #40 of 2932 Old 08-25-2014, 06:07 PM
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Alright, I have a question. What are the options for headlight housings for cars that came with HIDs? does a regular halogen housing work if I want a different look? The only specific HID housings I can find are 1000+ dollars, and i really don't want to go through with cracking my HIDs open just to paint/install daytime LEDs. Thanks for the help.
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