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post #61 of 3117 Old 09-10-2014, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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There are several members who have swapped in both directions. No serious electrical issues. Refer to this thread for details: DIRTYLOUD's 13 front end conversion & ongoing pic thread

Body kits for both the '13 and the '10-'12s are swappable; however, refer to the thread above for specific parts that have to be changed out in order to make the swap work.

One of our vendors makes a swap kit for 10-12 upconversions. It isn't really necessary, but makes the process easier. Search the forum for "front end conversions" and you find which vendor offers the kit.

There is such a thing as a stupid question... but not in this thread. This thread exists to provide you the most simple and direct answer to your questions that you might have without worrying about being dragged under the bus.

2013 Becketts Black 2.0T R Spec
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post #62 of 3117 Old 09-10-2014, 02:30 PM
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Looking at the turbokits.com turbo kit for the 13 gen coupe 3.8 when it is released. They claim 394rwhp/375rwtq at 7psi. My goal is to be close to 450rwhp. Do you think the addition of meth to the btr tune for 7psi, would be safe to run 2-3 more psi. Since they said their tunes automatically adjust to their desired afr. I know people use meth as a higher octane, and to utilize it for power they advance the timing. I just wanna run about 10psi on their setup to make the goal of 430-450rwhp. Think meth will help prolong the life of the motor? And is it Safe to do it this way?
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post #63 of 3117 Old 09-10-2014, 02:30 PM
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Would be best to PM "dirtyloud" and ask him for a breakdown

2010 Acqua Minerale Blue
2.0T 6MT
Ultimate Racing SRI
Ultimate Racing Down Pipe / Test Pipe
CPe Catback
TurboXS RFL-cold side
AP Clutch Line
Uniq Rigid Collars
Eibach Sportline
Eibach F/R Sway Bars
OEM Strut Bar
BBM Spoiler
JCS Pod
ProSport EVO Boost & Wideband
'13 clutch
Megan tranny mount
Varrstoen ES2 (white)
255/35/19x9.5 +22
275/35/19x10.5 +22


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post #64 of 3117 Old 09-10-2014, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lostsociety_sam View Post
Thanks for the help and the welcome. Also in terms of cost what would I be looking at?
Here's what you need according to D!rtyloud:

2013 Radiator Core Support - Part# 641012M500
2013 Hood
2013 Radiator Upper Grille Cover - Part# 863612M300
2013 Front bumper Cover
2013 Headlights

The rest you can purchase if you want which include
~ fog bezels
~ upper & lower bumper grill
~ hood vents

I think I read it's in the neighborhood of $1800, but you may want to ask in D!rty's thread, he can probably PM you the price.

2013 3.8 Track Pearl White
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post #65 of 3117 Old 09-10-2014, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fr3nchy524 View Post
Looking at the turbokits.com turbo kit for the 13 gen coupe 3.8 when it is released. They claim 394rwhp/375rwtq at 7psi. My goal is to be close to 450rwhp. Do you think the addition of meth to the btr tune for 7psi, would be safe to run 2-3 more psi. Since they said their tunes automatically adjust to their desired afr. I know people use meth as a higher octane, and to utilize it for power they advance the timing. I just wanna run about 10psi on their setup to make the goal of 430-450rwhp. Think meth will help prolong the life of the motor? And is it Safe to do it this way?
You should refer to Terrance's thread about that topic, he got greedy with the boost and had to eventually rebuild the motor: Almost 30k boosting a 3.8

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post #66 of 3117 Old 09-10-2014, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fr3nchy524 View Post
Looking at the turbokits.com turbo kit for the 13 gen coupe 3.8 when it is released. They claim 394rwhp/375rwtq at 7psi. My goal is to be close to 450rwhp. Do you think the addition of meth to the btr tune for 7psi, would be safe to run 2-3 more psi. Since they said their tunes automatically adjust to their desired afr. I know people use meth as a higher octane, and to utilize it for power they advance the timing. I just wanna run about 10psi on their setup to make the goal of 430-450rwhp. Think meth will help prolong the life of the motor? And is it Safe to do it this way?
Engine go boom!

The 3.8 wasn't built for forced induction. 6-8 psi is about all it's going to handle. If you add a multiplyer like meth or nitrous on top of the turbo and tune you are just asking for problems. The 3.8's cylinder walls are not thick enough to handle high boost or high compression and need to be sleeved before the engine can handle any more than what TurboKits is offering. If you want more than about 400 whp (give or take) you are looking at an engine build to get there.

2013 Becketts Black 2.0T R Spec
BTRcc Custom Tuned
310 whp/375 wtq @ 27 PSI Water/meth injected


"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits.”

~Albert Einstein
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post #67 of 3117 Old 09-10-2014, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inertiamonster View Post
You should refer to Terrance's thread about that topic, he got greedy with the boost and had to eventually rebuild the motor: Almost 30k boosting a 3.8
I read that thread. Wondering if the addition of meth helped him from blowing his motor sooner then running without it. I even pm him directly, just waiting for a response.
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post #68 of 3117 Old 09-14-2014, 08:25 PM
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Will the 2013 2.0t catch cans (I know a lot of people reccomended running two) fit on a 2014 2.0t? Don't know if anyone's tried yet I don't think anything changed from 2013 to 2014 that would affect catch cans?, can you confirm

2014 Red 2.0T Premium Genesis

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Black Gloss Wing Badges
Headlight, Foglight, Tail Light Dark Tint
Whiskers Wrapped
Headlight/Foglight Hids
MagnaFlow Catback Exhaust
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post #69 of 3117 Old 09-15-2014, 05:09 AM Thread Starter
Why so serious, Bro?
 
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Catch cans are generic and will "fit" any car. The Saikou Michi cans that were designed specifically for our cars will also fit where they were designed to be installed with no issues.

2013 Becketts Black 2.0T R Spec
BTRcc Custom Tuned
310 whp/375 wtq @ 27 PSI Water/meth injected


"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits.”

~Albert Einstein
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post #70 of 3117 Old 09-17-2014, 12:37 PM
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Spoiler Delete

Is it possible to delete this spoiler???
Attached Images
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post #71 of 3117 Old 09-17-2014, 12:48 PM
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Not without filling some holes and repainting the trunk lid, you'll also no longer have the third brake light which is required on all cars produced since the 1980s.

2013 3.8 Track Pearl White
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post #72 of 3117 Old 09-17-2014, 01:56 PM
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you could do what inertia said, but then youd have to by the rear deck from a grand touring where the third light is built in, more work than its worth

2013 Gran Premio 3.8 Track M/T
Stoptech SS Brake Lines, Agency Power Clutch Line, R2C SRI, Agency Power Catback, ARK DP/TP, PBM Coilovers, BTR Tune, EBC Redstuff, UR L/W Pulleys, Ported Throttle Body, Competition Clutch, Gram Lights
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post #73 of 3117 Old 09-20-2014, 07:31 AM
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So I just ordered ISC coilovers and I need some info (already saw the tutorial for install) on how to actually adjust the damper/height... I am running the OEM 19" R-Spec wheels, with 20/25 Garageline spacers, I want it low but not so low I am dragging ass... Thinking 3inches drop. Also I want a stiff not bouncy ride.. Are there any suggestions to help me out with this process? Thanks in advance, I am a noob, and also is the Forge BOV the best one to get for the price? Any other suggestions on BOV's I would appreciate it too.

2013 Genesis Coupe 2.0T R-Spec
Gran Premio Grey
Modfied R2C CAI
Depo Test/DP (with CAT delete)
ISR Street TBE
ISC Coilovers
20" STR 607 Titanium
DD 8K HID's
DD Switchbacks
Seibon CF Hood
M&S Carat Hyper G front bumper
Beta Midnight Flip Dipped from Fuel SLut Garage
Synapse BOV
SECo Plug-n-play(Snoopy) Blow-Off Valve Solenoid
ATP Garrett GT3076R Turbo
ATP o2 Housing
MXP Exhaust Manifold
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post #74 of 3117 Old 09-20-2014, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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First, any time you lower you car, your ride will be more harsh. Sub-frame collars and underbody bracing can lessen the effect. You may have to make several adjustments before you are satisfied with your ride height. Keep in mind that the car will settle a bit after you install your coilovers.

With regard to the best BOV, Synapse is by far the best you can get. It's a bit more expensive than other BOVs, but once installed it just works. Forge is okay for most applications.

2013 Becketts Black 2.0T R Spec
BTRcc Custom Tuned
310 whp/375 wtq @ 27 PSI Water/meth injected


"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits.”

~Albert Einstein
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post #75 of 3117 Old 09-20-2014, 10:12 AM
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Whenever I install coilovers on my car or anyone at my shop. I always drop te coilovers 1.5 inches from what they come in the box. I then drop the car on it's wheels and drive for a kilometre and let the shocks adjust (won't fully work in). After that you can adjust to your preference but always remember after 100 kilometre (75miles?) there's a possibility of the suspension settle up to an inch! I always plan for a .5 inch drop over that time span. Also would recommend turboxs for an affordable blow off if you can afford synapse.

Now my question:


I tried putting in my rigid collars yesterday but in the rear the subframe has shifted so the collars don't go in. I tried raisin the rear of the ground an loosening the 4 subframe bolts to allow some play but I can't seem to get it in the right place for the collar to slide in? I have a very tight suspension set up could this be the reason why? Any advice?

2014 Red 2.0T Premium Genesis

Modifications:

Black Gloss Wing Badges
Headlight, Foglight, Tail Light Dark Tint
Whiskers Wrapped
Headlight/Foglight Hids
MagnaFlow Catback Exhaust
HSD Coilovers (Newest Edition for 2013+)
TurboXs Blow Off Valve
K&N Cold Air Intake
Oem Rims Plastidipped
Led Interiors
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post #76 of 3117 Old 09-20-2014, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V AGenCoupe13 View Post
So I just ordered ISC coilovers and I need some info (already saw the tutorial for install) on how to actually adjust the damper/height... I am running the OEM 19" R-Spec wheels, with 20/25 Garageline spacers, I want it low but not so low I am dragging ass... Thinking 3inches drop. Also I want a stiff not bouncy ride.. Are there any suggestions to help me out with this process? Thanks in advance, I am a noob, and also is the Forge BOV the best one to get for the price? Any other suggestions on BOV's I would appreciate it too.

That my response to you ^

2014 Red 2.0T Premium Genesis

Modifications:

Black Gloss Wing Badges
Headlight, Foglight, Tail Light Dark Tint
Whiskers Wrapped
Headlight/Foglight Hids
MagnaFlow Catback Exhaust
HSD Coilovers (Newest Edition for 2013+)
TurboXs Blow Off Valve
K&N Cold Air Intake
Oem Rims Plastidipped
Led Interiors
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post #77 of 3117 Old 09-20-2014, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by GenesisGen2 View Post
I tried putting in my rigid collars yesterday but in the rear the subframe has shifted so the collars don't go in. I tried raisin the rear of the ground an loosening the 4 subframe bolts to allow some play but I can't seem to get it in the right place for the collar to slide in? I have a very tight suspension set up could this be the reason why? Any advice?
I had the same issue, using a socket roughly the size of the collar use a hammer to tap the collar until it barely sticks in the bushing, it'll seem like it won't happen but it will since the collar has radius'ed edges, just don't pound on it. Then put the subframe nut on the bolt and start tightening it by hand, do not use an impact gun, the collar will push the frame into alignment as it goes in, then you can back the nut off, put the dust plate on there and tighten it all the way up.

If you have several with the issue start with the one that's closest to aligned and work from there, as you get more of them installed the frame should get closer to centered.

2013 3.8 Track Pearl White
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post #78 of 3117 Old 09-20-2014, 11:34 AM
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Not sure I follow

2014 Red 2.0T Premium Genesis

Modifications:

Black Gloss Wing Badges
Headlight, Foglight, Tail Light Dark Tint
Whiskers Wrapped
Headlight/Foglight Hids
MagnaFlow Catback Exhaust
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post #79 of 3117 Old 09-20-2014, 11:55 AM
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Put the collar on the subframe bolt and hold it flush against the bushing, slide a deep socket long enough to clear the bolt over the bolt and onto the back of the collar and now hold the socket so the socket is flush to the collar and the collar is flush to the bushing. The idea is to be able to apply even force to the collar which is why you need the socket, otherwise because of the bolt you'd only be able to tap one side of the collar which could damage the collar or put it in crooked.

Now use a hammer to tap the socket until the collar just barely works its way into the bushing, basically until you can take the socket away and the collar won't fall off. At the point you can put the nut onto the subframe bolt to use the nut to finish the job, slowly tighten by hand until the collar is pushed all the way into the bushing, just hand tight at this point.

Repeat as needed until all four are installed to hand tight, then you can go back one by one, back the nuts off so you can install the dust covers and then tighten the nut to torque spec.

Edit: Also, to be clear for anyone else reading this, the first step of installing collars front or rear is loosening all four nuts that hold the subframe on, and the very last step is tightening all four to torque spec (120-130ftlbs). This means during the whole install, until all four collars are in place and the dust covers/brackets are back on you should leave all four nuts loose so the frame can move, and by loose I mean just hand snug, not backed off half way or anything. And never completely remove more than one nut at a time unless you want to risk taking a subframe to the face!

2013 3.8 Track Pearl White

Last edited by inertiamonster; 09-20-2014 at 12:20 PM.
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post #80 of 3117 Old 09-21-2014, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inertiamonster View Post
Put the collar on the subframe bolt and hold it flush against the bushing, slide a deep socket long enough to clear the bolt over the bolt and onto the back of the collar and now hold the socket so the socket is flush to the collar and the collar is flush to the bushing. The idea is to be able to apply even force to the collar which is why you need the socket, otherwise because of the bolt you'd only be able to tap one side of the collar which could damage the collar or put it in crooked.

Now use a hammer to tap the socket until the collar just barely works its way into the bushing, basically until you can take the socket away and the collar won't fall off. At the point you can put the nut onto the subframe bolt to use the nut to finish the job, slowly tighten by hand until the collar is pushed all the way into the bushing, just hand tight at this point.

Repeat as needed until all four are installed to hand tight, then you can go back one by one, back the nuts off so you can install the dust covers and then tighten the nut to torque spec.

Edit: Also, to be clear for anyone else reading this, the first step of installing collars front or rear is loosening all four nuts that hold the subframe on, and the very last step is tightening all four to torque spec (120-130ftlbs). This means during the whole install, until all four collars are in place and the dust covers/brackets are back on you should leave all four nuts loose so the frame can move, and by loose I mean just hand snug, not backed off half way or anything. And never completely remove more than one nut at a time unless you want to risk taking a subframe to the face!

Got them on thanks that method worked but I snapped a 14mm :/ should I be concerned and not driving?


My stupid torque wrench broke while torquing it and it over torqued

2014 Red 2.0T Premium Genesis

Modifications:

Black Gloss Wing Badges
Headlight, Foglight, Tail Light Dark Tint
Whiskers Wrapped
Headlight/Foglight Hids
MagnaFlow Catback Exhaust
HSD Coilovers (Newest Edition for 2013+)
TurboXs Blow Off Valve
K&N Cold Air Intake
Oem Rims Plastidipped
Led Interiors
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