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post #141 of 2993 Old 11-03-2014, 06:06 AM Thread Starter
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Anthony,

I have done some long term storage on different cars that I've owned and I don't think that I've found a better step by step guide on all the things you should do than this: How to Store a Car: 15 Steps (with Pictures) - wikiHow.

Follow this guideline to ensure that your car stays safe during the winter and you won't have to worry about it until the spring

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post #142 of 2993 Old 11-03-2014, 06:10 AM Thread Starter
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Ryguy... yes... living in Canada does make a difference. All trim levels in Canada are identified as "GT" for 10-12 models. From that point, you'll have to decide on accessories rather than rely on trim packages to determine the value of a car. New models of the Genesis Coupe in Canada are broken down as: GT, R-Spec, and Premium which is more in line with what I said before where Premium = Track.

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post #143 of 2993 Old 11-03-2014, 06:24 AM

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Alright Geek.


I have 4 solid diff mounts. I want to run only 3 of them, removing the passenger side addition mount. Would/could this cause any complications?


Reason for removal.. still have a slight noise and my subframe is slightly ovaled. I believe the bolt is moving causing additional noise at low speeds.

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post #144 of 2993 Old 11-03-2014, 06:57 AM Thread Starter
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Steve,

My concern would be more about why the subframe got slightly ovaled where you put the fourth solid mount. You could certainly run three, but I would be concerned that the forces that caused the fourth mount to oval would be transferred to the remaining mounts and damage them as well.

I might look at reinforcing the subframe with a sandwich plate or two that will help spread the load over a larger area than just the mount hole rather than simply deleting the mount.

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post #145 of 2993 Old 11-03-2014, 07:02 AM

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The 4th one is slightly ovaled from when my previous CPE mount failed..


The new mount is a sandwich design, the mount cant lay 100% flat because of how the hole ovaled. I cut potentially cut out the damaged part, then tighten the **** out of the mount..

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post #146 of 2993 Old 11-03-2014, 07:30 AM Thread Starter
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Hmmm... have you considered finding a wrecked coupe in your area and buying the subframe to start over again rather than screwing with that ovaled hole? I would still sandwich plate that fourth hole, but it should lay flat. While I'm a big fan of trying to fix rather than replace, I find that there comes a point in time where there are diminishing returns on fixing something and that the better option is to simply replace it.

The problem with tightening the crap out of something is that while it may make a difference in the short term, in the long term the problem still exists, you just hide it for a bit.... but you don't actually solve the problem that created the issue in the first place.

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post #147 of 2993 Old 11-03-2014, 07:45 AM

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Originally Posted by GenCoupeGeek View Post
Hmmm... have you considered finding a wrecked coupe in your area and buying the subframe to start over again rather than screwing with that ovaled hole? I would still sandwich plate that fourth hole, but it should lay flat. While I'm a big fan of trying to fix rather than replace, I find that there comes a point in time where there are diminishing returns on fixing something and that the better option is to simply replace it.

The problem with tightening the crap out of something is that while it may make a difference in the short term, in the long term the problem still exists, you just hide it for a bit.... but you don't actually solve the problem that created the issue in the first place.

Well.. I'm totally down for buying a new one. However, I don't want to spend $300-500 if its not my noise.


I think i'll try removing that mount entirely and see how it drives..

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post #148 of 2993 Old 11-03-2014, 08:12 AM Thread Starter
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That will at least tell you whether your clunking is coming from that bushing. I wouldn't do any really hard launches though.

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post #149 of 2993 Old 11-03-2014, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GenCoupeGeek View Post
Anthony,

I have done some long term storage on different cars that I've owned and I don't think that I've found a better step by step guide on all the things you should do than this: How to Store a Car: 15 Steps (with Pictures) - wikiHow.

Follow this guideline to ensure that your car stays safe during the winter and you won't have to worry about it until the spring
Thank you very much sir! I'll read it when I get home.

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The one and only "WHITE FILIPINO" guy
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post #150 of 2993 Old 11-04-2014, 06:46 PM
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Hey Geek,

The turbo studs broke when trying to put the Isis O2 housing one is flush the other is sticking to where i can be able to twist it out but i still need to take the other stud out. I read and my best bet is to remove the turbo and manifold all together how ever i cant get to the final bolt by the AC compressor. Im stuck on how to remove the AC Compressor to get to the bolt. I searched but havent been able to find anything for the AC compressor removal.


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post #151 of 2993 Old 11-04-2014, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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Purchase a left handed hardened drill bit that is about 3/4 the size of the stud. Start a small pilot hole in the middle of the stud using a small drill bit and then start drilling using the left handed bit. It should work itself out before you have to drill down too far into the stud.

It's not your AC compressor that's in the way.. it's the power steering module. You can get in there with a shallow socket; however, it's easier just to pull the bracket so you can get a straight shot on the manifold. I would highly recommend removing the entire manifold to repair the stud.

DIY:Turbo removal

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Last edited by GenCoupeGeek; 11-04-2014 at 06:53 PM.
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post #152 of 2993 Old 11-04-2014, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GenCoupeGeek View Post
Purchase a left handed hardened drill bit that is about 3/4 the size of the stud. Start a small pilot hole in the middle of the stud using a small drill bit and then start drilling using the left handed bit. It should work itself out before you have to drill down too far into the stud.

It's not your AC compressor that's in the way.. it's the power steering module. You can get in there with a shallow socket; however, it's easier just to pull the bracket so you can get a straight shot on the manifold. I would highly recommend removing the entire manifold to repair the stud.

DIY:Turbo removal
.

Thanks man i appreciate the quick reply


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2011 Genesis Coupe 2.0T 6SP MT R-Spec

265WHP / 287 WTQ First BK1 E85 stock turbo

KHARTUNERZ!!!

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-AEM E85 Fuel Pump
-Injector Dynamics 1300cc
-Enkei RPF1's staggered set up
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Last edited by GenCoupe11'2.0T; 11-05-2014 at 03:09 AM.
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post #153 of 2993 Old 11-06-2014, 02:24 PM
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On the 2012 2.0l head, is it a good idea to port and polish? Some people say because the way the head is designed you would actually lose power. Is that true? Is there anything else you can do to improve the performance of the head other than the obvious cams, valves, springs etc..?

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post #154 of 2993 Old 11-06-2014, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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Not exactly. The way the OEM intake manifold is designed, the #1 and #4 cylinders get more air and run lean while the #2 and #3 cylinders get less and run rich. You may see a small gain from porting and polishing the manifold... but that's not the reason why you would want to do it. There are two companies that offer port and polish services and also understand the problem with the intake manifold, Grimmspeed and MAPerformance. Both companies will port and polish your manifold to balance the airflow so that you get a more even distribution of air to each cylinder, but they do it in two different ways.

Grimmspeed will port and polish the intake manifold as far as they can reach into the intake with their tools. MAPerformance actually cuts the manifold in half to port and polish the entire interior of the manifold and then welds it back together again. Obviously MAPerformance's method results in a far better balanced manifold that flows better; however, the cost is much higher as well.

For stock power levels on up to about 300 whp, the balance of the intake manifold is not really that critical. Beyond that you start running into problems because the tuner will have to tune for the lean cylinders meaning that the tune will run pig rich overall. You can get an even better flow if you port match the gasket and the head to the intake manifold. This can run into the thousands of dollars and should only be considered on a really big build.

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post #155 of 2993 Old 11-06-2014, 03:50 PM
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Not exactly. The way the OEM intake manifold is designed, the #1 and #4 cylinders get more air and run lean while the #2 and #3 cylinders get less and run rich. You may see a small gain from porting and polishing the manifold... but that's not the reason why you would want to do it. There are two companies that offer port and polish services and also understand the problem with the intake manifold, Grimmspeed and MAPerformance. Both companies will port and polish your manifold to balance the airflow so that you get a more even distribution of air to each cylinder, but they do it in two different ways.

Grimmspeed will port and polish the intake manifold as far as they can reach into the intake with their tools. MAPerformance actually cuts the manifold in half to port and polish the entire interior of the manifold and then welds it back together again. Obviously MAPerformance's method results in a far better balanced manifold that flows better; however, the cost is much higher as well.

For stock power levels on up to about 300 whp, the balance of the intake manifold is not really that critical. Beyond that you start running into problems because the tuner will have to tune for the lean cylinders meaning that the tune will run pig rich overall. You can get an even better flow if you port match the gasket and the head to the intake manifold. This can run into the thousands of dollars and should only be considered on a really big build.
That's some pretty good information although, I was talking more about the head rather than the intake manifold.

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post #156 of 2993 Old 11-06-2014, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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I actually got that... but porting and polishing the head without porting and polishing the intake manifold would be a zero sum gain. Think about this... if the air goes in dirty because of a poorly ported intake manifold... it doesn't clean up going through a PnP'd head.

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post #157 of 2993 Old 11-06-2014, 08:40 PM
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Ryguy... yes... living in Canada does make a difference. All trim levels in Canada are identified as "GT" for 10-12 models. From that point, you'll have to decide on accessories rather than rely on trim packages to determine the value of a car. New models of the Genesis Coupe in Canada are broken down as: GT, R-Spec, and Premium which is more in line with what I said before where Premium = Track.
This is incorrect.

for MY2010-2012, 3.8 was either a base or GT. The "base" isn't a bare bones model, in fact the only thing the GT model added was Brembo brakes, 19" wheel package and sport suspension and a strut tower brace. Other than that, the cars are mechanically the same.

Also, although some folks like to use the term "GT" for the USA "Grand Touring", Hyundai Canada never used the "Grand Touring", it is simply the GT.

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post #158 of 2993 Old 11-07-2014, 05:53 AM Thread Starter
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All good. Thanks for your input

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post #159 of 2993 Old 11-07-2014, 06:06 AM
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no prob, Canada made it confusing...must be the cold lol.

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post #160 of 2993 Old 11-07-2014, 07:06 AM
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Hate to have to post this, but I tried searching and couldn't really find anything.

Question: At what amount of TQ should I consider upgrading ("bullet-proofing") my transmission/torque converter? And is this even of any use with no ability to "tune" the TCU?
(2013 2.0 Auto)

From what I have read, it seems the 10-12's torque converters are "safe" to around 275tq.
(Which is right around where Mira2White and Grail1505 ended up)
Haven't seen much about the 13+.

Background: This is really my first car that I have modified at all, so I don't have any real HP/TQ goals. (would like to hit 400, but not sure if that is feasible/realistic with the auto)
I am mainly doing this as a learning experience. I will be taking the car to the drag strip and do some SCCA solo events for fun, but not a ton. (And probably both equally)
And since it is my DD, I'm not looking to go too crazy with it.
I do plan on upgrading the turbo once the DiabloSport tuning solution is released. (Will drive up to Beyond Redline to work with them)

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