DEPO Racing O2 Housing Install and Review - Page 4 - Hyundai Genesis Forum
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post #61 of 177 Old 08-27-2011, 07:01 PM
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What number is the DTC you get. That will tell you what's wrong.

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post #62 of 177 Old 08-28-2011, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Kolk1 View Post
I wish there was a 100% way to see if the O2 CEL is coming on due to too much, or not enough gas reading, but that may differ from car to car. Ill try this 20lb tune for a couple days, and see what happens, if its still on by thursday, ill try adding the spark plug adapters so it gets less gas, to see if that helps it go off. Drilling a hole so it gets more gas would be a last resort, because unless I can stick a welder up there, there is no way to make that hole smaller again after its drilled out.
I drilled the hole out and havent had a code in about 150 miles. The first code I got (P1040) came up after about 100 miles, so I'm assuming the drill out fixed it. But I'll keep updating here.

But CEL really should be the least of your problem though. Read my posting from above about fitment issues. Then read my next post below. I'll have it up in the next minute.
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post #63 of 177 Old 08-28-2011, 06:00 PM
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I will say though, this is the cheapest pipe I've seen, so I guess you get what you pay for. Cheap enough to take the risk and buy a new one if it dont work out.

I'm just surprised people are more concerned about throwing CELs and not the fitment.

Do you know if there are any leaks with this pipe? Any residue buildup around the flanges or bung holes, or rattling sounds?
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Another review

I ended up trying out this testpipe after the positive reviews here. Let me start off by saying this testpipe does not fit perfectly. I requires re-drilling of the turbo side flange, and a custom fabrication to the mounting hardware that connects below. This is not a simple bolt on so buyers beware, you will need to work, to make this work. I had the tools and resources to make this fit, but others might find it disappointing and frustrating.

Otherwise, the pipe seems to function properly with no leaks. Will have to monitor this long term for the quality assessment.

Update

I removed the testpipe yesterday to work on the turbo housing. It was also a good chance for me to check for leaks. Well, I was optimistic at first thinking the pipe fit ok. But on the rear section (part connecting to the downpipe) I found a leak




You will find that the pipe is a little short. The downpipe has to be stretched a bit to make the connection (stretched by the flex joint there). As you can see in the pics, there is a leak near the bottom of that flange.

I own a 2012 and reused the stock metal gaskets (nearly new). After finding the leak, I've replaced the gaskets with another aftermarket one. But I'm doubtful the gaskets were the problem as there have been so many other fitment issues. I've cleaned up the pipes and we'll see what happens.
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post #64 of 177 Old 08-28-2011, 07:06 PM
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I had a custom mid section made. I have a 3inch pipe connecting to the down pipe, and it stays 3inchs until the area where the stock pipe was pinched. In that area it slowly tapers down to 2.5, at that point it goes into the stock resonator where the rest of my exhaust is still OEM, expect for the tips. I have 0 exhaust leaks after around 1000 miles or more.

Butting a 3inch pipe right up to a 2.5, is a horrible idea. Talk about some rough exhaust flow.

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post #65 of 177 Old 08-28-2011, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kolk1 View Post
I had a custom mid section made. I have a 3inch pipe connecting to the down pipe, and it stays 3inchs until the area where the stock pipe was pinched. In that area it slowly tapers down to 2.5, at that point it goes into the stock resonator where the rest of my exhaust is still OEM, expect for the tips. I have 0 exhaust leaks after around 1000 miles or more.

Butting a 3inch pipe right up to a 2.5, is a horrible idea. Talk about some rough exhaust flow.
it isnt Ideal going 3" to 2.5" but they seal good and it greatly outflows the stock O2 even though it changes sizes. Mufflers really make exhaust flow rough,lol. On a budget the O2 cat delete is a great move.

2.0t 3" O2 Housing $110.00
2.0t 3" Downpipe/ testpipe Combo $159.99
2.0t 3" Downpipe/HFC $269.95
3.8 Testpipes 129.95
2013 O2 Housing $159.95
All Gauges 10% off
www.deporacing.us

http://www.gencoupe.com/vendor-classifieds-engine/
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post #66 of 177 Old 08-28-2011, 08:43 PM
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True. It also helps getting rid of the 2nd heater under the hood. lol

My hope is that by the time the exhaust gas gets back to the rear axle, it has cooled down enough that 2.5 isnt that much of a restriction. Im not trying to get every tiny bit of Hp I can out of this car. I dont want it to be loud. The catless down pipe I bought off of you, and no secondary cat, sounds perfect to me.

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post #67 of 177 Old 08-28-2011, 10:13 PM
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Dumping 40 lbs going to a single exhaust makes it all worth it.

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post #68 of 177 Old 08-31-2011, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solidfish View Post
I drilled the hole out and havent had a code in about 150 miles. The first code I got (P1040) came up after about 100 miles, so I'm assuming the drill out fixed it. But I'll keep updating here.

But CEL really should be the least of your problem though. Read my posting from above about fitment issues. Then read my next post below. I'll have it up in the next minute.
Has your light came back on? Mine did today on my way home from work, I need to have it scanned to see what code im throwing. What size drill bit did you use?

Daily: 2011 SHO Taurus, AWD Twin Turbo, livernois Stage 4 kit.

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post #69 of 177 Old 08-31-2011, 08:36 PM
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Has your light came back on? Mine did today on my way home from work, I need to have it scanned to see what code im throwing. What size drill bit did you use?
Nope, I got about 200+ miles on it and havent had the light since I've drilled out the hole. I'm not sure what size bit I used, but I opened it up to about the size of the bung hole. Will post on here if light comes on.
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post #70 of 177 Old 09-01-2011, 11:01 AM
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so who had fitment problems and who didn't? was it a bad batch or a recurring problem?

I am not a list of mods but what i know and share:
http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t/94778-fuel-system-what-you-need-know.html
http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t/86146-wastegate-101-a.html
http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t/91199-compressor-maps-how-read-them.html

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post #71 of 177 Old 09-01-2011, 02:26 PM
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Thanks, Im going to see if I can just get in there without removing the down pipe, and just use my 90* angle bit, and drill out the hole a little bit. If I can get in there without pulling it off, Ill to it in steps, over time, to see what size I ended up having to use to get it to go off.

My holes needed to be bigger for the 3 turbo bolts, and then I had a custom 3 inch mid section made.

Daily: 2011 SHO Taurus, AWD Twin Turbo, livernois Stage 4 kit.

For Sale: 2010 R-Spec 2.0T, 6sp, tinted windows, viper keyless R/S, basic little stuff.

Cruiser/Bruiser Bike: 2007 ZX-14, 300whp, Built block, Garrett GT2871R turbo, you name it.

Touring/backroading Bike: 2013 ZX-14R, Full titanium Hindle exhaust, dyno tuned, drop pegs, bar risers, Puig DB screen,
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post #72 of 177 Old 09-01-2011, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Kolk1 View Post
Thanks, Im going to see if I can just get in there without removing the down pipe, and just use my 90* angle bit, and drill out the hole a little bit. If I can get in there without pulling it off, Ill to it in steps, over time, to see what size I ended up having to use to get it to go off.

My holes needed to be bigger for the 3 turbo bolts, and then I had a custom 3 inch mid section made.
Careful before drilling the hole while the pipe is on the car. The scrap metal from the drill will go into the rest of your exhaust. Not sure what damage it would do but it might get caught in the 2nd cat or muffler. Just something to think about.

I hate getting under the car too. But sometimes laziness can have consequences...
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post #73 of 177 Old 09-01-2011, 05:52 PM
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The only OEM exhaust part I have is the muffler, everything else has been removed, or swapped out, even the Tips. Metal shaving wouldnt hurt the stock muffler. Not sure how long that will still be on there anyway. I get bored. lol

I can easily drop the mid section so its not attached, I just dont want to take the down pipe off the turbo. Those bolts are already crap, I dont want to risk stripping those.

Daily: 2011 SHO Taurus, AWD Twin Turbo, livernois Stage 4 kit.

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post #74 of 177 Old 09-01-2011, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Kolk1 View Post
The only OEM exhaust part I have is the muffler, everything else has been removed, or swapped out, even the Tips. Metal shaving wouldnt hurt the stock muffler. Not sure how long that will still be on there anyway. I get bored. lol

I can easily drop the mid section so its not attached, I just dont want to take the down pipe off the turbo. Those bolts are already crap, I dont want to risk stripping those.
Ya those bolts are pos. I have another posting about them here:

http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t/73369-h...sing-bolt.html

I bought the beyond redline replacement bolts and got two of them swapped. That middle one is still on there. I couldnt get it off and plan to take it to a specialist when I have some time.
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post #75 of 177 Old 09-02-2011, 06:16 AM
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Yea, I ordered a set of new bolts. Didnt have to use them the last time, but next time I pull it off, I probably will anyway.

Daily: 2011 SHO Taurus, AWD Twin Turbo, livernois Stage 4 kit.

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post #76 of 177 Old 09-02-2011, 10:57 AM
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Ok, Ive been running the leaner 20lb tune I have for about a week, my CEL came back on a couple days later like I posted above, but today it turned itself back off, and I havent changed anything in the last week. When I did the 20lb tune, I disconnected the battery for 20 seconds to clear the dash light, but like I said, 2 days later it came back on, its been on for about 3-4 days, and today it went off. It was on during my drive to lunch, went back out after lunch, started the car and it was gone. Lets see how long this lasts. lol

Daily: 2011 SHO Taurus, AWD Twin Turbo, livernois Stage 4 kit.

For Sale: 2010 R-Spec 2.0T, 6sp, tinted windows, viper keyless R/S, basic little stuff.

Cruiser/Bruiser Bike: 2007 ZX-14, 300whp, Built block, Garrett GT2871R turbo, you name it.

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post #77 of 177 Old 09-02-2011, 11:06 AM
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There is only one sure way to get rid of the after cat O2 DTC, that is turning it off in the ECU with software.

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post #78 of 177 Old 09-02-2011, 11:14 AM
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I have a CMD, and dont plan on buying a reflash just for a rear O2 sensor.

Daily: 2011 SHO Taurus, AWD Twin Turbo, livernois Stage 4 kit.

For Sale: 2010 R-Spec 2.0T, 6sp, tinted windows, viper keyless R/S, basic little stuff.

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post #79 of 177 Old 09-02-2011, 11:16 AM
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I understand. But it is the only reliable way to eliminate the light, as you are finding out.

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post #80 of 177 Old 09-03-2011, 11:05 PM
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^Gotta hate all the emissions restrictions that you folks have. FYI Kolk1, it turned out that the Gulf spec GC has only one o2 sensor because of no emissions law here. Plus, the CEL does not get triggered after the first cat is removed.

Grey 2.0t Track- A/T

Mods:
*Sarona Grill
*ProSport boost gauge
*SuperLUX LED tail light
*Greddy Oil Catch Tank
*AEM Cold Air Intake
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*Evo X injectors
*Mishimoto Radiator hose kit
*Beyond Redline manifold spacer
*CX Racing FMIC kit
*TurboXS o2 housing
*TurboXS RFL BOV
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