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Old 10-16-2011, 04:38 AM   #41
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Default 3000 lbs is a reachable goal w/o having to casrate the car

^^^ I meant castrate...LoL



Quote:
Originally Posted by Odelagt View Post
Blitz: here's a list of the in progress parts and their expected reductions

Lightweight battery. 20lbs. Ordered
Washer tank reduction. 10lbs. Shopping
Hood. 25lbs. In production
Tunk. 15lbs. Ditto
Lightweight pulleys. 10lbs. Installed
Lightweight wheels/tires. 75lbs. Planned
Rearseat delete. 38lbs. Done but reinstalled. Shopping for permanent solution
Spare & tools. 30lbs. Done but reinstalled. Obviously.
Custom exhaust. 17lbs. Installed, but can and will be made lighter.
PA headers. 20lbs. On layaway with Arvin. It's complicated.
4 corner 2-piece rotors. 25lbs. In production
Clutch/flywheel. 20lbs. Shopping
Drive shaft 1-piece. 10lbs. Shopping
Front seats. 40lbs ? The seats I want are Misano AL from cobra they are 21lbs each
carbon intake manifold. 10lbs. In planning. These things are complex.

Well above 300 lbs and the interior and creature comforts are mostly unscathed. With RMR's carbon doors and a carbon roof this would easily go over 500. Go super crazy and an LS3 conversion should net you both a 120hp increase AND a 200lb weight savings.
My version:
Lightweight battery 20lbs< for mine 23lbs Ordered as well
Washer tank reduction 10lbs Already have
Hood 25lbs In route
Trunk 15lbs Eventually
Lightweight pulleys not going to run
Lightweight wheels/tires 75lbs< Woah I only saved 32lbs Installed
Rearseat delete 38lbs Done
Spare & tools 30lbs< I came up w/38lbs Done on race days
Exhaust 17lbs< I saved 23lbs w/my set up Installed
PA headers N/A
4 corner 2-piece rotors don't plan on doing
Clutch/flywheel 20lbs Installed
Drive shaft 1-piece 10lbs<this should save alot more IMO Eventually
Front seats 40lbs
carbon intake manifold don't plan on doing


Some other things that eliminate weight worth noting:
removing all the front splash shields under the car - Done
trimming the front fender liners - Done
removing floor mats, owners manual & misc - Done on race days
changing suspension over to coilovers should shed a few lbs In route

eliminating airbag system once racecar only - save major lbs





Quote:
Originally Posted by newmedia View Post
GC is front heavy and tail happy , best place to lose the weight is in front for better over all performance.

I read guys removing front crash bar , AC heating systems , heat shields and so on. I liked the idea of going with light weight battery in the trunk in the future for best performances.

Not much you can do in the front / engine bay area for weight reductions without either safety or very useful features for modern DD car.
+1....car is definately front heavy & should focus more on front weight reduction whenever possible.

Quote:
Originally Posted by blake@stillen View Post


600 lbs from A/C, heating, sound system and stability control?? There is no way that's possible. I estimate on the heavy side that you take about 30lbs from the AC compressor, condensor and maybe 5lbs from the AC motor. 30lbs from the speakers, panels (front and rear) and maybe +5 additional pounds to be nice. This is 65lbs! I'm not sure how much the stability control weighs, but I bet it's not 535lbs!
+1....which is why I'm not going to bother removing any of that.

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Originally Posted by Odelagt View Post
Why aren't we having this conversation in the official weight reduction thread? That having been said, I just found a little tidbit of interest. A carbon driveshaft replacing a two-piece factory unit on a ford mustang GT500 saves more than 25lbs. It's 40+ stock and the replacement is 15lbs. I guess some of my estimates are too low there, hey Suns?
+1...I noted above that I agree that you will save more on aftermarket driveshaft than just 10lbs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cris90 View Post
just a side note. I was looking into PnP IM and apparently MAP's PnP is far more aggresive thn grimmspeed. There site shows a graph indicating equal flow in all 4 for thee 2.0t, idk if they have the same for the v6. Thatas the reason for the almsost 3x the price of grimmspeed.
Yes, MAPs P&P for the IM actually involved cutting the IM apart in order to reach everywhere needed to complete the job properly. Nate told me this is the reason that they had my parts for so very long....well in addition to the fact it was the 1st they had done on the GC & needed to bench flow test eveything as well as document it. He said that it is the most extensive P&P they do & called it a Stage4 or 5 I believe.



A side note that I think some may be forgetting is that alot of the aftermarket parts we install actually add weight & therefore we must work that much harder to negate those parts additional weight.

For example:

OEM airbox assembly with tubing to turbo & filter = 5.8 lbs
CP-e replacement air box with tubing & filter = 8.8 lbs
So the CP-e unit is going to add 3.0 lbs

2.0t OEM radiator = 5.8 lbs
Mishimito 2.0t radiator = 10.8 lbs
So the Mishimito radiator will add 5 lbs

OEM motor mounts & hardware = 7.6 lbs
CP-e motor mounts & headware = 8.8 lbs

So the CP-e motor mts are 1.2 lbs more than OEMs

Front crash bar = 18.6 lbs
OEM intercooler = 6.4 lbs
OEM IC cold side pipe = 2.4 lbs
OEM IC hot side pipe = 3.2 lbs
for a total of 30.6 lbs


Buschur RACE FMIC = 23.8 lbs
Buschur FMIC piping & hardware = 9.0 lbs
for a total of 32.8 lbs

giving an additional 2.2 lbs as long as I don't run a crash bar

Food for thought......
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Old 10-16-2011, 04:50 AM   #42
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great post ^ i was thinking about that as well, all the parts we add. There also sway bars, sub frame, new strut tower, dif. mount, body parts (lips and diffusers) reaer strut tower. But there is weight reduction, all those parts from Cusco, tie rod's, and wat not lol but thn roll cage add's (depending on how many points) 20lb- a lot more. So really with a mild(not crazy) weight reduction and installation of all this aftermarket parts your still ~ 0 weight loss/gain
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I know you like making threads about these things that have been covered a ton, but this time, no.
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Old 10-16-2011, 11:50 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Odelagt View Post
The wheels I want are WedsSport Tc105n WedsSport - Weds Sport for Sport Wheels | TC105N. They don't fit terribly well, though so I think I'm in for some fender/hub "mods". Hence I don't have them yet. My optimum would be 8.5 fronts and 9.5 rears, but both 9.5/9.5 and 9.5/10.5 are in the running. Whatever fits best. You convinced me on the weights and your review of the Conti's to go that route. But I want a narrower side wall and I'd like a tad more stretch than you have(you have, like, none).
I like my DWs a lot. But living in a fair weather state as you and I both do, I might have to go w/ something like an AD08 or the new full race Contis (also w/ the same lightweight construction as the DW, but expensive) in the future. The reason is simply that I desire more traction under certain conditions. Where I'm going w/ this is that if you run the 8.5/ 9.5 combo and desire a tiny bit of stretch you are down to about a 235 front and a 255/ 265 rear. I couldn't go back to that much less traction personally. You might want to chose a stickier (likely heavier) tire if you run rims that narrow. JMO.

Therefore, maybe just going w/ the wider rims could work out better for you. I look forward to seeing your set up w/ the included weight comparisons.

I want to add one more good note about the DWs, they really are so good. They are lightweight, good in the wet, are absolutely dead quiet, wear like iron, and stick darn well.
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Old 10-16-2011, 06:26 PM   #44
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^Hmmmm, I did not want to hear that about the tire sizes. We'll see. I need to get this intake and my rotors done before I crush my way through wheels. I also need suspension before I do wheels. The dollar $ign$ are piling up.
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Old 10-16-2011, 06:43 PM   #45
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BTW, there are some used 18" Enkei's for sale in the wheel forum.
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Old 10-16-2011, 08:47 PM   #46
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Well having in consideration the test of TopGear...
In a drag strip having a 200whp and 230tq gencoupe will it be any benefical by stripping simple thing just like backseats and spare tire+tool or maybe it will also lose some grip? or just will be such a minimal amount of weight lost that grip will not lose so much to compensate the weight lost
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Old 10-16-2011, 09:11 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLeRoux92 View Post
just make sure you poop before heading to the track-best bang for your buck weight reduction, and usually the quickest. (IMO)
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Old 10-17-2011, 06:17 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subyhau View Post
Well having in consideration the test of TopGear...
In a drag strip having a 200whp and 230tq gencoupe will it be any benefical by stripping simple thing just like backseats and spare tire+tool or maybe it will also lose some grip? or just will be such a minimal amount of weight lost that grip will not lose so much to compensate the weight lost
Pompous Brits are pompous. By their argument cars should be heavier in the name of grip. The real issue is that the lighter your vehicle is, the less contact patch you need. Also, grip is eroded not by light weight, but by imbalance of weight distribution. We all know this from pickup truck experience.
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Old 10-23-2011, 04:05 PM   #49
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When did CNT start making a single exit exhaust? They dont to my knowledge
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