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Old 06-23-2011, 05:13 AM   #1
 
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Default Brembo Swap/Retrofit FAQ

Gathered this information form several posts, and thought it would help some people looking to do the swap....

For the fronts, you'll need the rotors, calipers, and crush washers for the brake line. You can re-use the existing brake line and fittings.

For the rear, you'll need the rotors, calipers, crush washers, and splash/dust guard (if you want to replace it). The rear splash guard covers the edge of the rotor whereas the front guard only covers the side area of it. You can simply cut the rear guard off with some metal snips or you can remove the hub and replace it outright with the larger one from the track model.

Dust Sheild/Splash Guard/Backing Plate Part Numbers:
L 58250 2M700
R 58270 2M700


FAQ:

2.0 and 3.8 share all the same brake componets.

Everything is a direct fit. (Base brakes vs Brembo brakes)

All the internals (ABS, master cylinder, reservoir) are all the same, as well as mounting location and brake lines.

The bleeder nut on the Brembo calipers is 11mm.

People who have done a Brembo Swap:
qwaszx
2.0TGT
vox
Kleindl
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Last edited by qwaszx; 10-31-2011 at 07:29 AM.
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Old 06-23-2011, 06:49 PM   #2
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Old 06-23-2011, 07:07 PM   #3
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thanks
was thinking about doing this if i find a good deal... but waiting for the equus brake outcome
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Old 06-25-2011, 04:15 PM   #4
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Add me to the list if you like.
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Old 06-27-2011, 07:57 AM   #5
 
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mine are in the mail, will be installing shortly
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Old 06-27-2011, 08:18 AM   #6
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i have a question: where did you get the brembos and for how much? thanks
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Old 07-01-2011, 09:00 AM   #7
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For the rear dust shield, can you just cut the rim of the shield off and still have a functional cover?
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Old 07-01-2011, 11:14 AM   #8
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Quote:
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For the rear dust shield, can you just cut the rim of the shield off and still have a functional cover?
Not sure exactly, but one thing to keep in mind is that the brembo rear rotor is thicker than the base rotor due to its venting veins (the stock rotor is solid non-vented.) There may not be enough clearance with the brembo rotor and the stock dustshield.
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Old 07-01-2011, 11:26 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vox View Post
Not sure exactly, but one thing to keep in mind is that the brembo rear rotor is thicker than the base rotor due to its venting veins (the stock rotor is solid non-vented.) There may not be enough clearance with the brembo rotor and the stock dustshield.
Did you buy the rear dust shields or are you just running without?

Seems they are $160-300 just for those shields alone. :O
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Old 07-01-2011, 11:42 AM   #10
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Nice FAQ, will reference.
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Old 07-01-2011, 11:42 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sendou View Post
For the rear dust shield, can you just cut the rim of the shield off and still have a functional cover?
Yes, you can cut the lip off and still have a functional cover. You will also need to make a small cut so the covers will clear the caliper brackets. There is also still plenty of room between the Brembo rotors and base model dust shields.
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Old 07-01-2011, 12:11 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Msteve121 View Post
Yes, you can cut the lip off and still have a functional cover. You will also need to make a small cut so the covers will clear the caliper brackets. There is also still plenty of room between the Brembo rotors and base model dust shields.
Thanks for the heads up. Hope to make it through the weekend with all my fingers attached.
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Old 07-01-2011, 12:42 PM   #13
 
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how thin is the dust shield? Can you cut it with tin snips, or do you need a dremel?
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Old 07-01-2011, 01:53 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by qwaszx View Post
how thin is the dust shield? Can you cut it with tin snips, or do you need a dremel?
I used a grinder with a cutting disc. A dremel would work, may take a while just because of the size of the cutting disc. I don't think the snips would work very well.
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Old 07-02-2011, 08:41 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Msteve121 View Post
I used a grinder with a cutting disc. A dremel would work, may take a while just because of the size of the cutting disc. I don't think the snips would work very well.
Since I was using a dremel, instead of cutting the rim of the dust shield off I decided to cut slits into the shield every 5 inches and bend the plate back using some pliers.

Tons of metal shavings all over from using the dremel... did a onceover with a wire brush to clear everything out.



Also need to trim the bottom side of the shield for the mounting bracket.



Annnnd, the finished product. I went back and aligned the dust shield after taking this picture since I had pulled too much on certain sections. It's easier to gauge how much clearance you need when the rotor and caliper are mounted.



Gonna get some brush on black caliper paint from the store and go over the exposed metal from the bending/dremel and clean it up.

Test drive went smooth and perfect, no issues at all. Looking forward to doing the fronts tommorrow.
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Old 07-02-2011, 10:54 PM   #16
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Honestly, if you're going do this swap, spend the extra 150-200 and buy the rear baking plate.
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Old 07-02-2011, 11:08 PM   #17
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I would have left out the dust shields in the back altogether. If you intend for this to be a performance upgrade for the track there's no reason to keep the dust shield on. It just serves to trap heat.
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Old 07-03-2011, 12:51 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericxd View Post
Honestly, if you're going do this swap, spend the extra 150-200 and buy the rear baking plate.
The R-Spec/Track Rear Dust shields list for around $400.

I checked around at all the discount oem part vendors, including NCZ here on the boards and the lowest price I could find was $310 for both plates.

The way I see it, if you plan to go back to the base brakes to sell your car, then remove the shield and replace with the R-Spec/Track shields.

If you still want a functional dust shield without having to buy a second set, modify the OEM one in whatever way you want. (Cut the rim or bend the rim.) I daily drive my car and I'm of the thought that the factory put the dust shield here for a reason. My rear shield no longer covers the vented portion of the rotors, so I'm not too concerned with rear brake heat whatsoever, but I'll find out once I get more seat time at the track and toss in the Quaife LSD.
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Old 07-03-2011, 05:08 AM   #19
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You need tge sheild, its actually the backing plate the handbrake assembly is attached to. You cant remove it. I ordered the part from korea, was about 140 bucks delivered
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Old 07-03-2011, 12:33 PM   #20
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Quote:
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You need tge sheild, its actually the backing plate the handbrake assembly is attached to. You cant remove it. I ordered the part from korea, was about 140 bucks delivered
+1

Type any OEM parts on eBay, gather your list of sellers on eBay from Korea selling ANY OEM parts, PM all of them about the paking plates instead with the parts number... I guarantee it'll be cheaper shipped than anywhere else. Plus, EMS is quick as hell, I get my stuff in a couple of days.
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