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Old 09-24-2011, 12:14 PM   #1
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Default Spacers Thread!

I did a quick and dirty search, and didn't see this topic. Anywhoo, I'm currently deployed with a few months left. One of the first things I plan on buying when I get back are spacers, among other things (BC coilovers, Ark exhaust maybe). I wanna see your spacers! Uhh...no homo?

Post 'em up. Brand & size(s). If you're riding low, what's your drop and camber? And IF for some reason you've aftermarket wheels, post size and offset!

Lets do this!

Good info here people!

Quote:
Originally Posted by xcQuence View Post
I've been through quite a few set of spacers and I can say that Motorsports Tech is probably the best bang for your buck, quality as well.

Superdrift Spacers are fine, but I felt their build quality wasn't up to par with Ichiba. Their spacer nuts stripped very easily, and are sized 21mm if I am not mistaken. This makes it very hard for you to find an adapter that is thin enough to screw the actual nut on.

Ichiba on the other hand uses 19mm nuts which are by far, easier to install. The only upside to getting Superdrift Spacers is that you'd only need one adapter for the install (21mm for wheel + spacer nuts). That being said, it's not worth it. 2 sets of my Superdrift Spacers warped before I discarded of them. Ichiba spacers have held up well without warping but have given me vibration issues from day 1.

And no, Superdrift Spacers and Ichiba Spacers are not wheel centric, they are hub-centric but they are not wheel centric. Wheel centric spacers (adapters) do not require the use of the aluminum "rings" that come with the Superdrift and Ichiba spacers. Remove those and you have (1Car60Mexicans) what you'd classify as a hub-centric only spacer.

My suggestion is to get the Motorsports Tech Adapters which are truly wheel & hub centric, with no need for a centric ring to make sure your spacers don't move about.

Ichiba is nice, but I'd recommend Motorsports Tech over all spacers on the market right now in a heartbeat just because it's one piece instead of 2 > Ichiba & Superdrift.

Plus its made in the USA, not that that's something I look for when shopping but I've seen a lot of people pull the trigger just because of that fact.



Two piece, spacer and centric ring. (Ichiba)



One piece (Motorsports Tech Adapter).

One less thing to worry about when dealing with vibrations.
I've been through more sets of spacers than I want to remember... so I'll
try to shed some light on it for the people who aren't familiar with spacers.

There are two types of "spacers" that people need to pay attention to,
everything else does not matter. Most spacers are purchase for our cars
to make OEM 18's & 19's "flush" with the fender.

Hub Centric Spacers
Example: Ichiba V2


As you can tell from the image above, these spacers are actually two-pieces.
The spacer itself with the built in extended studs are not bored to 67.1.
Instead, the two centric rings you see on the left are 67.1 and are placed
in the middle of the actual spacer. As far as vibration/balancing issues, this
is a big "uh oh" for me. If you're already increasing the number of parts from
1 to 2 (wheel to spacer + wheel), you should try to minimize the number of
parts sitting in between your wheel. This may not bother others but it's so
easily avoidable, I don't see why you wouldn't. Spacer + centric ring + wheel
just does not sound very efficient to me.

Hub & Wheel Centric Spacers
Example: Motorsports Tech, H&R, Eibach, SYUN Project



Unlike the Ichiba V2's, you can see in the picture that the "centric ring" is
built into the spacer. This means one less separate piece in between your
wheels. Just make sure that the spacers that have built in "centric rings" are
bored to 67.1 (stock wheel C/B size). Motorsport Tech spacers are built in
house (Made in the USA) so they are a great option. They also offer custom
"adapters" which we'll talk about below... but your spacers can be customized
down to the millimeter if you order from them.

That being said, 20mm (front) and 25mm (rear) is flush on our cars while
maintaining factory alignment specs. This is great if you are OCD about your
toe and camber settings like I am. Get yourself a lifetime Firestone Alignment
plan for around $175 and you can treat yourself to factory alignment specs
every single day!

Hub & Wheel Centric Adapters*
Example: Motorsports Tech

If you are purchasing a set of wheels that are NOT bored to 67.1, but would
like to mount them on your car anyways, you will first have to make sure (for
the most part) that the offsets are somewhat high (depending on the wheel
width). This is because adapters, can only be built from Motorsport Tech
from sizes 15mm and up. These include built in extended studs as shown
above as well as the built in "centric rings," also shown above. Take into
consideration the added 15mm then go wheel hunting. It's also great if you
want to run a very aggressive setup on our cars (10"+ up front or 11"+ in the
rear).

Anyways... hope this was helpful. Hijinx if you want to update the original
post and replace the old quote of me that'd be great. I think this is easier
to digest. I remember when I bought my first set of spacers, I had no idea
what to expect haha.

-Harry

Last edited by JewishThunder; 12-06-2012 at 08:34 PM.
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Old 09-24-2011, 12:19 PM   #2
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where u deployed to? im in iraq go home by the end of the year
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Old 09-24-2011, 12:33 PM   #3
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I'm in Kuwait. I'm Air Force, but because of my job I'm deployed at an Army base.
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Old 09-24-2011, 12:35 PM   #4
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aaa nice i been to three bases in kuwait recently just decided to drive down there lol
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Old 09-24-2011, 08:41 PM   #5
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Can I get some love?
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:00 PM   #6
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I have 20mm spacers front and 25 rear I believe they're ichiba received them from jay at gctuner and dropped on megan coils

My front wheels are turned on this one

And sorry for crappy phone pics. And this last one is the rear
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Old 09-25-2011, 05:38 AM   #7
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Once it's lowered, if you purchase aftermarket rims with the right offset, etc you won't even need spacers. That's the route I'm taking next summer. In the meantime, stay safe in Kuwait!
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Old 09-25-2011, 11:21 AM   #8
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Anyone running 20mm all around or 17mm in the front with 20mm in the rear with the stock 19s? Not trying to hijack the thread, just curious as well before making my purchase.
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Old 09-25-2011, 11:29 AM   #9
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check out elementrider87's ride he has 17mm f and 20 r **** looks sick and its pretty much slammed on BC coils i believe
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Old 09-25-2011, 12:23 PM   #10
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I've got 20mm's all the way around. Lowered on Pro-Kit Springs

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Old 09-25-2011, 12:46 PM   #11
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Nice, Tilley. It looks good on springs!
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Old 09-25-2011, 01:34 PM   #12
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thanks! one more for ya...

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Old 09-25-2011, 03:12 PM   #13
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Talked to xcQuence, he'll be through later on to post up specs, but for now...Enjoy!





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Quote:
Originally Posted by (MMX) View Post
Plus, Johnny Tran didnt have anything to do with QMs car.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GenesisRspec2.0 View Post
Other question why would you remove a transmission just to replace a slave cylinder???
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Old 09-25-2011, 03:47 PM   #14
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20mm all around
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 09-25-2011, 03:52 PM   #15
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Eibach Sportlines 20mm F & 25mm R (along with the pictures that Hijinx) posted.



How I sit right now.

19x9.5 +22
19x10.5 +22

-3 camber in the rear, 0 camber in the front.

Will add 5-10mm spacer to the rear this month with no change in camber so I will use this thread to show yall the difference. Blumagic is running +12 offset which is what I will be at also, just not as low.



Front shot from tonight.
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Old 09-25-2011, 05:28 PM   #16
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Love it xcQuence, thanks!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by (MMX) View Post
Plus, Johnny Tran didnt have anything to do with QMs car.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GenesisRspec2.0 View Post
Other question why would you remove a transmission just to replace a slave cylinder???
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Old 09-28-2011, 10:18 AM   #17
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Hey Harry, are you getting extended studs for 10mm spacers? i just thought of this this morning looking at +22 RPF1's



Here is 20mm front 30mm rear.

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Old 09-28-2011, 10:22 AM   #18
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Yeah I'll be getting extended studs + wheel/hub centric so I don't need the hub-centric rings for the Varrstoens. Would be one less thing to have to remove when I'm unmounting the wheels.

Question, did you roll the fenders for the fronts? Same story as rears I assume if you did? Plastic lining pushed back? I removed almost all of my rear plastic liner because honestly we don't need it, I'm wondering if I could do the same for the fronts.
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Old 09-28-2011, 10:34 AM   #19
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yeah... used some soft wood and rolled em. liners are still in though... didn't do anything but use those metal tabs to push them back as far as possible.

let me know how the stud install goes. i'm curious.
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Old 09-28-2011, 11:04 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xcQuence View Post
Yeah I'll be getting extended studs + wheel/hub centric so I don't need the hub-centric rings for the Varrstoens. Would be one less thing to have to remove when I'm unmounting the wheels.

Question, did you roll the fenders for the fronts? Same story as rears I assume if you did? Plastic lining pushed back? I removed almost all of my rear plastic liner because honestly we don't need it, I'm wondering if I could do the same for the fronts.
If you go through Motorsports Technology or Adaptec Speedware I think they are now called you can get adapters, which are basically spacers with the studs bored into them. That way you dont need to extend your studs. They make them wheel/hub centric as well and are made in USA in Nevada.

Hands down best spacer/adapters you can buy with your money.
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