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Old 03-14-2010, 03:11 AM   #21
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SixMT hit the nail on the head here! lol... OP, you can run 4 wheels of the same size no problem. The reason why you should not run 4 of the same size tires is this:
There are sensors in you car that track the speed and movement of all of your wheels. From the factory it is set up staggered, meaning the front 2 tires are smaller diameter than the rear tires and thus are moving faster than the rear tires. If you put a square tire setup on, the computer senses that the tires are not moving properly and will kick in the traction/stability control. You don't have to really get on it either to make it kick in. Even just in 5th and 6th gear if you try to accelerate fast it cuts your power. You can always just push the fun button(tcs off) everytime you get in and start the car, but it's up to you.
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Old 03-14-2010, 03:32 AM   #22
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I thought you couldn't put matching size wheels because the traction control would start to step in if you go over 50~60 mph with the TCS on
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Old 03-14-2010, 05:20 AM   #23
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"Neither of you knows what your talking about. Please stop"

If we are so misinformed, would you care to enlighten us kind sir?

Btw: I'm talking about wheel/tire width, not sidewall height.

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Old 03-14-2010, 05:40 AM   #24
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You will probably have to get the info from a Hyundai tech or someone who is actually racing the car if you want to the right answer and not an opinion. It would seem that Hyundai designed a staggered fit for a reason, surely not just cosmetic. Take the Vette for example, you would not throw same size wheels on it because it was designed to handle best with a staggered setup. If cost is an issue perhaps should have bought a more economical car to mod.
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Old 03-14-2010, 06:11 AM   #25
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I run 19X8.5 rims all around with staggered tires (225/40/19 front, 245/40/19 rear) on my 3.8 Track. The main difference in my wheel setup from stock is that the front rim is 1/2" wider than the OEM rim. Because the tires are the same size as OEM, I have no problems with handling or TPMS.
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Old 03-14-2010, 06:11 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VicGenCoupe View Post
SixMT hit the nail on the head here! lol... OP, you can run 4 wheels of the same size no problem. The reason why you should not run 4 of the same size tires is this:
There are sensors in you car that track the speed and movement of all of your wheels. From the factory it is set up staggered, meaning the front 2 tires are smaller diameter than the rear tires and thus are moving faster than the rear tires. If you put a square tire setup on, the computer senses that the tires are not moving properly and will kick in the traction/stability control. You don't have to really get on it either to make it kick in. Even just in 5th and 6th gear if you try to accelerate fast it cuts your power. You can always just push the fun button(tcs off) everytime you get in and start the car, but it's up to you.
That is what i wanted to do, 4 wheels of the same size but keep the stock tires ..so staggered tires.

I was just wondering if it was ok, maybe i will just powdercoat the dam wheels.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 03-14-2010, 06:48 AM   #27
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that's not necessarily true I ran 245/40/18's all around for a week or so and never had traction control issues.

Quote:
SixMT hit the nail on the head here! lol... OP, you can run 4 wheels of the same size no problem. The reason why you should not run 4 of the same size tires is this:<br>
There are sensors in you car that track the speed and movement of all of your wheels. From the factory it is set up staggered, meaning the front 2 tires are smaller diameter than the rear tires and thus are moving faster than the rear tires. If you put a square tire setup on, the computer senses that the tires are not moving properly and will kick in the traction/stability control. You don't have to really get on it either to make it kick in. Even just in 5th and 6th gear if you try to accelerate fast it cuts your power. You can always just push the fun button(tcs off) everytime you get in and start the car, but it's up to you.
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Old 03-14-2010, 09:45 AM   #28
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^ I've been running a square setup for winter for the last 4 months. The tcs didn't start acting up for about 3 weeks to a month in. I guess all cars are different.
akgc, you are half rite. The only thing wrong is it's not from a square rim setup, it's from a square tire setup. You are dead on about the speed it kicks in at, I just went out to test it.
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Old 03-14-2010, 11:14 AM   #29
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I believe there is much discussion about this without a whole lot of facts....
I've already posted on this issue here:
Official Genesis Coupe Wheel Fitment Thread

I want to clarify that there are very different meanings being thrown about on this and many of the GC forums

Definitions of "stagger" I've seen/heard are:

Staggered Wheel WIDTH <-- as with stock setup
Staggered Wheel DIAMETER <-- rare, but similar to a Corvette setup
Staggered Wheel OFFSET
Staggered TIRE SIZE

Now, the STOCK setup utilizes both Staggered WHEEL WIDTH and TIRE SIZE
why...

First reason: Staggered TIRE SIZE, so that the ESC (Electronic Stability Control) (aka Traction control) can function correctly as programmed from the factory.

Second reason: Staggered WHEEL WIDTH, to accomodate the larger size tire in the rear while maintaining a cosmetically pleasing appearance.

Any thought pattern that the 1/2" width difference "STOCK" (18"s= 18x7.5 / 18x8, 19"s= 19x8 / 19.8.5) has any more impact on the car's performance than the WIDTH of the RUBBER contacting the ground (and WHERE in relation to the suspension geometry it makes contact to the ground) is a fallacy

The stock wheels on the stock suspension, with the stock geometry was placed intentionally. Likely the 'safest', most 'average consumer' based choice, to keep the car from oversteering, keeps the steering 'light' (making it as effortless as possible) and keeping costs low.


Most of you 'concerned' about the performance of the car and its handling, are looking at cosmetics and performance. For that you want more rubber contacting the ground, while getting the wheels to push further out to the corners of the car (flush vs tucked), etc...


changing the width of the tires (not the rims) will change handling
- the rate of 'grip' will change, and wider in front will contribute (usually) to less understeer
- doing so will give the tires a more "bulged" look, rather than the 'fitted' look that comes stock

changing the OFFSET of the wheels (not the width) will change handling
- further away from the suspension will increase the "lever" effect, making the suspension (if left un-altered) effectively 'softer'
- this is usually to go after that "flush" look that is popular these days

changing the width of the rims BUT not the tires will change handling
- This is due to the fact that it will change the sidewall and shape of the contact patch
- this will usually yield a slightly "stretched" look depending on how much wider a rim you run.


etc etc and so-forth...

NOTE: I want to make sure people understand this,... increasing the WIDTH of the TIRES in front, makes the steering heavier. simply going from 225's to 245's was very noticeable. I think 255's up front may be too much but again that's "my" opinion.



Now what most people are doing is:
Changing WHEEL WIDTH/OFFSET, AND TIRE WIDTH/DIAMETER

seriously, this discussion about keeping it "how it came from the factory" is MOOT at this point.

I am running 18x9.5's.. ALL AROUND
I am running 245/40's in front, 275/40s in the rear
I am running +20mm offset up front, and an 'effective' +17mm offset in the rear
- courtesy of an additional 3mm spacer in the rear




I cannot speak for anyone else but, it is my personal opinion... I REPEAT, PERSONAL opinion, that wheels are mostly cosmetic, tires are performance. the only aspects of the wheel that are RELATED to performance is 1) weight, and 2) allowing fitment of the tires you wish to run

In otherwords, you get the wheels you 'like', in the diameter/width/offset you WANT, and can run the TIRES that will give you the performance you desire.

The limitations are already known. such as clearance in front to the stock strut (if you go with coilovers, you will gain clearance (and adjust-ability if you have camber tops))

So in the end, if you're just beginning in this realm, sure, stick with the stock 'formula' but please don't assume it doesn't change handling characteristics

If you've been doing this for a while, please STOP telling people mis-information or incomplete information....
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Old 03-14-2010, 01:58 PM   #30
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Great info thank you.

So i have the base model and if i put 18X8 all around but keep the stock tires wider in the rear is not a major problem.

Thanks again
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Old 03-14-2010, 02:07 PM   #31
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Thank you!!!
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Old 03-14-2010, 04:03 PM   #32
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Nice write up, tazer808.
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Old 03-14-2010, 04:35 PM   #33
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/me point at tazer808

what he said
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Old 03-14-2010, 05:37 PM   #34
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Old 03-14-2010, 10:53 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xjdognbx View Post
"Neither of you knows what your talking about. Please stop"

If we are so misinformed, would you care to enlighten us kind sir?

Btw: I'm talking about wheel/tire width, not sidewall height.
I was referring to the debate back-and-forth about how tires affect handling. If all you had to do was go with a square setup to reduce understeer.... nevermind, I'm not even going to finish that statement.

The handling dynamics of any vehicle are complex, and depend on wheels, tires, suspension, aerodynamics, braking, and much more and in no particular order. Your attempts to equate a complex mechanical system's behavior to a single variable would be like telling a chef his dish would taste better or worse depending on how much salt he added.

No, I don't care to enlighten you, because I don't claim to be an expert. As an engineer with a passion for cars, I know better than to trivialize the science. Plus, at the time of your back-and-forth, you were leading the thread away from the original question, which is precisely what I have just done, so I'll stop
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Old 03-15-2010, 05:10 AM   #36
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Ha. Ok. I didn't mean to imply that just tires will cure you understeer. I know to that the handling of a car works as a system and that it takes more than just coilovers or tires to make a great handling car. Every component of a cars suspension adds to the performance. Much like when you add I/H/E, you might not notice one doing a whole lot but when you have all three working as a system it makes a difference. I was simply saying that if you come in here and make a comment denouncing me and another members intelligence, then you should back it up with an explaination to set us straight. Constructive criticism. Otherwise its just plain rude.
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Old 03-15-2010, 10:56 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xjdognbx View Post
Ha. Ok. I didn't mean to imply that just tires will cure you understeer. I know to that the handling of a car works as a system and that it takes more than just coilovers or tires to make a great handling car. Every component of a cars suspension adds to the performance. Much like when you add I/H/E, you might not notice one doing a whole lot but when you have all three working as a system it makes a difference. I was simply saying that if you come in here and make a comment denouncing me and another members intelligence, then you should back it up with an explaination to set us straight. Constructive criticism. Otherwise its just plain rude.

Alright I'm going to say one last thing and then you can be the internet argument winner. Congratulations.

People come on these forums because they're looking for real answers that may or may not influence a very large purchase. When you start tossing around statements that not only exist outside of fact, but are actually wrong, you are misleading someone who doesn't know any better. Yes, the ultimate decision is always in their hands, but you are making statements disguised as fact that are directly opposite of what Hyundai recommends.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xjdognbx View Post
Equal rubber = Neutral handling, Staggered = Understeer.

Im sure the reason Hyundai gave it a staggered setup was to make it understeer prone. Safer for inexperienced drivers. Keeps the wrecks and lawsuits away
Where in your statement did you not mean to imply that just tires cure your understeer? Am I reading this wrong? You used an equals symbol, which I learned in the 2nd grade means "this is exactly the same as that". "I'm sure" is another statement that I must have misinterpreted as you being 100% confident. Apologies.

You're wrong again: I don't have to give you constructive criticism. You didn't ask for an opinion and you didn't solicit counter-arguments. You stated. It's not rude for me to call you out, and I'm sorry you got your feelings hurt. I'm just trying to stop someone from buying a square setup based on fear of understeer. That's asinine.

I'm sorry, but members like you are the reason that I stopped coming here to learn about my car. Having to create a rolodex in my head of the members whose opinions I trust (dwpers, chris@vt, etc), and having to cross-reference everyone else's responses with internet searches, is not worth it. Great, now I sound like a troll.

To everyone else reading this: I apologize for wasting your time. I promise I'm done now.
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Old 03-16-2010, 05:25 AM   #38
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Congradulations! You won...
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Old 03-16-2010, 06:02 AM   #39
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nice write up
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Old 03-16-2010, 07:47 AM   #40
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Default I think this has been said before, but .....

Does anyone have actual figures on how much performance is gained by each lb. one is able to reduce a wheel's weight by?

Does it actually equate to gaining multiple HP to swap stock 18" wheels with aftermarket 18" wheels that are a couple lbs. lighter, each?


Quote:
Originally Posted by tazer808 View Post
I cannot speak for anyone else but, it is my personal opinion... I REPEAT, PERSONAL opinion, that wheels are mostly cosmetic, tires are performance. the only aspects of the wheel that are RELATED to performance is 1) weight, and 2) allowing fitment of the tires you wish to run

In otherwords, you get the wheels you 'like', in the diameter/width/offset you WANT, and can run the TIRES that will give you the performance you desire.

The limitations are already known. such as clearance in front to the stock strut (if you go with coilovers, you will gain clearance (and adjust-ability if you have camber tops))

So in the end, if you're just beginning in this realm, sure, stick with the stock 'formula' but please don't assume it doesn't change handling characteristics

If you've been doing this for a while, please STOP telling people mis-information or incomplete information....
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