Originally Posted by CrispedPenny
Proof? Ive seen evidence that it works best..
lol, scientist are able to 'prove' whatever they want now a days and do. It really is sad. I call this crap bread science.
Did you know: Bread is evil!
1) More than 98 percent of convicted criminals are bread eaters !
2) Exactly half of all children who grow up in bread - eating households score in the bottom 50% on standardized IQ tests !
3) In the 19th century, when virtually all bread was baked in the home, the average life expectancy was less than 55 years; infant mortality rates were unacceptably high; many women died in childbirth; and diseases such as typhoid, scarlet fever, smallpox and influenza ravaged entire nations !
4) Statistics show that more than 75 % of violent crimes are committed within 24 hours of eating bread !
5) Bread is made from a substance called "dough." Researchers have proven that as little as one pound of dough can choke a large animal like a horse. The average person eats more bread than that in one month !
6) Bread is known to be extremely addictive. Subjects deprived of bread and given only water, actually begged for bread after just two days !
7) Bread is a "gateway" food item, which usually leads to such items as butter, jam, peanut butter and even ... bacon !
8) Bread has been proven to kill. Scientists have now uncovered alarming evidence that 100% of the people who eat bread will eventually die !
9) Unattended newborn babies can choke on bread !
10) Bread is baked at temperatures as high as 425 degrees Fahrenheit ! Don't laugh...that kind of heat can kill a full grown adult in less than five minutes.
11) 96 % of cancer victims eventually admit that they've eaten bread !
12) Sadly, 9 out of 10 bread eaters are unable to distinguish between significant scientific fact and meaningless statistical babbling.
To me this test is like testing all airfilters. Some filter particles 5 mircons and some 20, my filter that I made in my basement filters 0 microns so do you want to buy my filter? I will charge you $500 since it is so advanced. I am not lying, my filter will not let any dirt particles get by, I have a test showing this..... The catch is, my 'filter' is made from rubber. So even though it is true dirt won't get by, air can't get by either. But all you see is my test showing how much dirt dint' get by making my product seem 'superior'.
In this test they say 8lbs of weight is equivillent of 75lbs of 90* force on your piston or cylinder wall. Your pistons go up and down, not much of the weight is the piston scraping against the wall with perpendicular force on it. So this test is already non sense for pistons/engine block. What about your cams, that would make more sense (and probably what the study should have been called to test on), they push directly on each other, but do you really think they have 75lbs of weight? So really what is the point of testing something our engines don't even do? Just to prove that a certain company is superior at doing something we don't need it to do? I am sure those companies that faired well had no economical infuence on the testing too right?
This just shows the test is BS, it isn't to say that royal purple is bad or good. I do think it is good....but can be very expensive if not used correctly.
Though it is true and rightly proven that true ( Group IV PAO) synthetics are so much better than convential oil. Many companies out there still trick their consumers into thinking they are selling them synthetic (and mobile 1 attempted to sue castrol over this and lost as synthetic is a marketing buzz word and has little to do with the actual compostion of the oil) oil when they are actaully selling them group III highly refined petrol oil because it is cheaper and label it synthetic. So beware of castrol oils.
I haven't seen any pulications showing that redline is PAO so I would recommend staying away from it. If it is PAO, generally it is easy to find info on this.
The only PAO that I am aware of is Amzoil synthetic, Mobile 1 synthetic, Royal Purple sythetic. I am not saying there isn't more, I am just not aware of them.
As to those that have said you "know people with bad expereinces wth royal purple...", there are so many factors in engine wear and gunk buildup ect. that is makes it very difficult to say that the oil itself is the reason for issues. How often did they change their oil? What kind of air filter did they use? How often did they clean it? What kind of oil filter did they use? How often did they change it? Those are some of the main factors.
Notice I didn't say anything about scars from putting 90* difference of force of what actually occurs in an engine anywhere? I actually used real life engine operational factors. Here is another fact that hs been proven... but actually applies to engines.
60% of all engine wear is caused by particles between 5 and 20 microns.
No matter how well you performed in this "scar test" throw some particles in the oil sump of this scar test and see how well the oils perform. That is at least relevant to engine wear.
Though I would say the large majority of people that buy royal purple won't get thier moneys worth out of it from lack of education. Royal purple should be good for at least 5,000 miles if not 10,000-12,000 miles before changing it allowing you to get your moneys worth out of it, as opposed to the pertol or "sythetic blends" or syntec BS oils out there requiring a 3,000 mile change still.
Royal purple doesn't want to warranty anything nor say anything above the 3,000 mile 'norm' ue to so many other factors. It is like saynig this tire will last 30,000 miles. Some it might last 10,000 miles, and some it might last 75,000 miles.
So agian, this is dependant on your oil fitler, if you have a low efficient filter, well, you are going to have issues with this, and if you have a low capacity oil fitler. Though your engine oil might be good, your fitler might be clogged and bypassing and now your fitler needs to be changed as your oil is still good. Good luck changing out your filter without you oil lol. Maybe you have a nice expensive Amzoil oil and filter, you are set to go 10,000 miles now right? Maybe not, how good is your air filter, is it dirty? How good are the rest of your cars seals, are they allready bad allowing more than normal contaminints in your oil? Maybe you will need to change it every 3,000 miles even if you use top of the line air filter, oil fitler, and oil.
I use mobile 1 filters and mobile 1 sythetic oil and change my oil every 5-7k miles. I think on a new car, with good seals, this is the most efficient and safe way to go. I also check (~1000 miles) to make sure my oil filter is hot after a long drive to make sure it is not clogged and bypassing the filter. I could probably go 10k, but I would rather be safe than sorry, but it would be a waste of money to do it eveyr 3k miles IMO. If I bought royal purple or amzoil, I would probably go 7-10k miles, and I have thought about switching to it at times.
But I don't ever think it is a good idea to go petrol oil and keep with the 3k miles 'norm' as petrol oil is so inferior to synthetic it is like going from a FI back to a carberator.
Back on topic.... I think the recommended 5.6 is way too much. I would recommend putting in 1l less than recommended, running your car (to get some oil through the new fitler) then checking your oil level and adding .25l untill you are good. Escecially if useing PAO synthetics, you could probaly run your car 'dry' for 30 secs and be fine, but if you run it 1l low at idle for 10 mins, I don't see any issue with this at all. It is always easier to add some then take some away.