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post #1 of 48 Old 04-18-2019 Thread Starter
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No power?

My apologies if this has been answered, I have searched some forums and google a bunch and not sure where I should start.

So the other day I was coming home from work being tired and 11:30 at night I wasn't in any mood to "handle" my car like I would on any other day. Everything seemed fine heard the turbo spool when I started the car and when I was on the freeway trying to get up to speed my car was extremely sluggish, wouldn't go past about 5k RPM and wasn't able to hear the turbo. I stopped, got gas thinking I had low fuel as my gas gauge isn't working properly right now, start rolling out, heard no turbo spool and had no power still. I got home that night started looking at my motor, everything seemed fine, no smoke, no weird noise or smell. Finally got all the piping and stuff off the turbo and made sure the turbo itself still spun by hand and made sure the blades were not damaged. I checked all inter-cooler piping and I did have what I think is a vacuum line was cracked so I had replaced to no difference. Also, there is no CEL or anything on the dash. So, as of now I have three theories.

1. The turbo pressure sensor is bad

2. The waste gate is stuck open

3. The turbo is just bad.

Last edited by Jasperxxl; 04-18-2019 at 12:56 PM.
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post #2 of 48 Old 04-18-2019
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Very odd. Most likely your AF sensor is bad (unlikely) or IC hoses came off somewhere. Vacuum leak or stuck wastegate. If the turbo spins it will keep spinning as long as the turbine is still attached
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Originally Posted by JOutterbridge View Post
Very odd. Most likely your AF sensor is bad (unlikely) or IC hoses came off somewhere. Vacuum leak or stuck wastegate. If the turbo spins it will keep spinning as long as the turbine is still attached
I checked all hoses from turbo, checked IC and re-seated them as well. Do you happen to know how to check the WG to see if its open? I am going to pull the WG off the turbo tonight and take a look at it
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post #4 of 48 Old 04-18-2019
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If one of the boost sensors was bad, the ecu would throw a correlation code. Not always, but likely to.

If there was low boost, if the boost sensor see a ratio between the 2, it wouldn't throw a code.

things I would check are:

Boost solenoid being bad

stuck bov

stuck wga
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Bad O2 would throw a code too. How much boost do you build? Do you have an automatic?

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Bad O2 would throw a code too. How much boost do you build? Do you have an automatic?
Normally it would build about 10-14 lbs depending on the gear. Its a manual.
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Originally Posted by Jasperxxl View Post
Normally it would build about 10-14 lbs depending on the gear. Its a manual.
So there is no boost at all now?

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So there is no boost at all now?
Yea theres no boost at all right now
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post #9 of 48 Old 04-19-2019 Thread Starter
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Im gonna bump this with some new information.

I pulled everything off and I know the turbo spins, I ran the car for a few and saw the turbo spinning while the car was running. I checked all vacuum lines and they were a pain to get off when i tried so i would assume they didn't just magically pop off (Did not check for leaks or cracks in lines specifically.) I checked IC piping and made sure everything was tight and no leaks. I did take my stock BOV off and inspected it, it looks fine. Still no CEL, I unplugged the Turbo pressure sensor and no CEL was pushed but when I ran my code scanner it did pull a code for a low circuit on that sensor. I plugged it back in, cleared codes and the code was gone.

TL;DR

Turbo spins under idle just not building boost, IC piping looks fine, vacuum lines look fine, BOV looks fine.

Without buying new ones, How can I assure my BOV isnt stuck open and that my BOV and WG solenoid are working proper?
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post #10 of 48 Old 04-20-2019
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Try boost leak test, and check both solenoids it they work.
Maybe check if your WG arm is moving ok, and if you don't hear odd sounds from WG.

You can test Solenoids using 12v battery and some pressure source (i.e. hand held air pump).
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You can just use direct intake vacuum on the BOV and cap the port that was used on the solenoid. ECU will never know. Do not use the original vacuum source as that comes from a tank inside the intake manifold and has vacuum when the intake does not.

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post #12 of 48 Old 4 Weeks Ago
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On the BK1 there are 2 solenoids.

One main controls the wga, the other controls the bov.

the bov only opens when there is vacuum, the wga opens when there is too much boost.

The solenoids, limits and controls the amount of vacuum/boost the 2 sees.
Sometimes the bov solenoid stays closed in a vacuum state, meaning the solenoid closes off the line to the bov, making it hold vacuum in the line.

I'm more inclined to think this is the case, since even if the wga solenoid was stuck, you should still see about 6 psi of boost.

Take the vacuum lines off of the wga and the bov (to relieve vacuum/pressure), put the wga line back on, and plug up the line for the bov with a screw or something, then drive around to see if anything changed.
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post #13 of 48 Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Red Raspberry View Post
You can just use direct intake vacuum on the BOV and cap the port that was used on the solenoid. ECU will never know. Do not use the original vacuum source as that comes from a tank inside the intake manifold and has vacuum when the intake does not.
Thanks for the reply!

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Originally Posted by AKGC View Post
On the BK1 there are 2 solenoids.

One main controls the wga, the other controls the bov.

the bov only opens when there is vacuum, the wga opens when there is too much boost.

The solenoids, limits and controls the amount of vacuum/boost the 2 sees.
Sometimes the bov solenoid stays closed in a vacuum state, meaning the solenoid closes off the line to the bov, making it hold vacuum in the line.

I'm more inclined to think this is the case, since even if the wga solenoid was stuck, you should still see about 6 psi of boost.

Take the vacuum lines off of the wga and the bov (to relieve vacuum/pressure), put the wga line back on, and plug up the line for the bov with a screw or something, then drive around to see if anything changed.
Thank you as well, When I get some time tonight i'll try this and see.
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post #14 of 48 Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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I pulled the hose off my recirc solenoid and it was pulling in air after I turned off the car? I put my finger over the hole and it had suction not much and not for very long maybe 4-5 seconds. I plugged the hose with a screw and made no difference. I did take all hoses off the solenoids, recirc and WG. Made sure all the hoses were good, blew into the hoses and came out the other ends.

I have the recirc and WG solenoid on their way and as well as a new recirc.
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I pulled the hose off my recirc solenoid and it was pulling in air after I turned off the car? I put my finger over the hole and it had suction not much and not for very long maybe 4-5 seconds. I plugged the hose with a screw and made no difference. I did take all hoses off the solenoids, recirc and WG. Made sure all the hoses were good, blew into the hoses and came out the other ends.

I have the recirc and WG solenoid on their way and as well as a new recirc.
With the OE vacuum line going to the solenoids there is an internal tank inside the intake that holds vacuum when the car is in boost. That is what the little green and white check valve does. It's the feed for the internal tank and it keep the vacuum inside with the check valve when there is none in the intake due to boost. This is, IMHO, why many think the OE BOV leaks. It's the ECU actually opening the BOV to reduce boost when you would not expect it to be doing so. Also why I have my boost solenoid bypassed.

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Originally Posted by Red Raspberry View Post
With the OE vacuum line going to the solenoids there is an internal tank inside the intake that holds vacuum when the car is in boost. That is what the little green and white check valve does. It's the feed for the internal tank and it keep the vacuum inside with the check valve when there is none in the intake due to boost. This is, IMHO, why many think the OE BOV leaks. It's the ECU actually opening the BOV to reduce boost when you would not expect it to be doing so. Also why I have my boost solenoid bypassed.
Wouldn't the system just send boost to the WGA via the solenoid to limit boost?
Only time, I would assume it would open the BOV via solenoid and vacuum tank, while on throttle, would be if it went into limp mode. Even then it would definitely throw a CEL.

I agree with for now, bypassing the BOV solenoid but keeping the WGA in place,

facing the engine bay, you will see the green/white check valve. Connect the bov to the forward fitting of that, and plug the check valve of that.
You'll need a longer vacuum line for that. Don't use vinyl hose, it will collapse because of heat and vacuum.
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I monitor my waste gate duty cycle of the solenoid. It is in the 40% range at idle and 85% range when under hard boost. I believe the BOV is also like this though more like an on and off situation rather than constant regulation.

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So theoretically speaking, I replaced the BOV/Recirc with a new one and replaced both WG and recirc solenoids and made sure every hose and vacuum line is good. What would be my next step? Still no CEL
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So theoretically speaking, I replaced the BOV/Recirc with a new one and replaced both WG and recirc solenoids and made sure every hose and vacuum line is good. What would be my next step? Still no CEL
I would pull codes. Sometimes, the CEL doesn't turn on, or it could be the CEL light not working.
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You can ohm out the solenoids or even power them with 12v to see if they work.

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