Because no one wants to approve my build thread, imma post here.
Last thing I worked on was the head I think a year ago.
ate away at the head in the lobe travel areas to allow my tomei 11mm lift cams to fit.
I made a jig out of some pipe, a dremel, and some nylon spacers.
I still have to grind off the little lip that's left, because there isn't enough clearance for the jig to rotate that far.
Been thinking about bolting the head to some particle board, and using a milling bit in my drill press and going at it slow as I can. (shouldn't use a drill press this way. "do as I say, not as I do" situation)
Keep in mind this is one of my spare engine, so if something happens when it's running, I'm not too worried.
Pic from last time I worked on it.
So recently, been working on the bottom end.
A while ago, I checked the clearances for the mains, to factory spec. I didn't have my APR main studs at the time.
So, clearanced to 0.0012 inches on all the mains at 23ft/lbs and 120* turn, after that it sat for a while. (yes, checked with bore gauge and micrometer. then used plastigage)
factory tolerance is 0.0008 - 0.0015 inches (no one makes plastigage that will measure below 0.001, that I can find)
ARP main studs need to be torqued to 70ft/lbs, thats about 2 to 3 times the force of the factory main bolts.
I do all that with plastigage, and measures to 0.001.
I take it apart and clean it up, oil it, and put it back together. Crank won't turn. These are original bearings; block, crank, and bearings all match (FYI kids, minimum spec for plastigage, means it won't spread further than that)
So I calculated what those bearings are and order looser bearings. Rinse and repeat, same thing, 0.001 plastigage clearance, and still won't turn freely.
Since I couldn't find aftermarket bearings at the time for the new clearances I need, I sanded the back side
of the bearings with some 600 grit. My dad taught me this trick a while ago.
I used a sharpy to paint the back side of the bearings and sanded them forward and back, not
along the circumference. until the sharpy ink is removed.
Rinse and repeat, until it was the clearance that I was happy with (wanted it a little looser, but I was done with working on it). Measured with a bore gauge again to check if my finagiling made it out-of-round. All came back good.
FYI, get the name brand plastigage. The Clevite brand is a PITA to get off. both do the same job.
Cleaned, oiled, torqued, and this is what I ended up with this