new battery, new (spare alternator). battery light still on. - Hyundai Genesis Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 10-05-2019 Thread Starter
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new battery, new (spare alternator). battery light still on.

hello again guys,

not sure if unlucky but i've replaced the battery and alternator (used from ebay), still the dash still gives me the battery sign. do you have any suspects on this? details as follows:

1. called my mechanic, replaced our suspected dead alternator
2. started the engine, batt light still on
3. something smell like its burning (could it be a fuse?)
4. mechanic check if the new alternator is dead. removed the battery while engine running. car died in doing so.

my mechanic guesses is could be another dead alternator, but kinda am skeptical at the moment. should i start checking the fuse or wirings? any leads on where to check? thanks guys
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post #2 of 9 Old 10-05-2019
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There are three fuses associated with the alternator. The 150A on the alternator output cable. A 10 A ECU 1 fuse and that is fed from a 50A fuse. All in the engine compartment.

The 50A fuse also powers the fuel pump so if it's running that's good.

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i assume that 150a you've mentioned is the one on that multi fuse on the fusebox (near throttle body)? ordered that one just now. since it's a see-through piece it doesnt look burned to me though it has some markings like rust or stain..

that ecu 1 fuse is on the battery side fuse box?

still not panicking here. but i might lose my mind if the wirings themselves is the issue if replacing blown fuse doesnt work.
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Yes the 150A is in the fuse box. You should have continuity from the pos battery post to the fuse box.

ECU 1 is on the turbo side but if the engine starts it is OK.

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will give it another shot once the fuse arrives in a few days -- this is the farthest i should go for a non-mechanic. haha but if all else fails i saw on this thread how you guys replaced burned cables near the fuse box. might use that 0 gauge wire.

should i give it a go too? seems like alternator issues or misdiagnosis due to toasted wires, is an issue for this car..

thanks big time.

Last edited by micoycoy; 10-05-2019 at 05:58 AM.
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If the ground is bad that will mess everything up. I recommend adding a heavy ground wire 4 ga or bigger. From the fender ground point to the engine block somewhere.

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will go have a look, hopefully this should stop with the fuse replacement
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updated: had my OLD alternator checked and my hunch was right it's really dead. rotor was damaged, coils too. just felt i wasted money buying a spare when before checking wires and fuse, now i kinda think this wasnt a misdiagnosis after all, ..

however, since i already put the USED alternator in my car and it's still isnt working it's either A. fuse or wires blown or B. other alternator also ded.

just wanna asked why would a failing alternator trigger a fuse to blow or wires to go bad? the old alternator isnt going to short itself, am i correct?
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alright scratch this thread. bought a brand new alternator and it worked perfect!

the used alternator was also dead (srsly though?) and had it refunded. i suggest people should avoid going cheap on this on, found a new one for 200. fixed my idle vibration issue too.

now i'm trying to check inside my 2 DEAD alternators and see if i could do refurb one and sell it to offset the cost of repairing this.
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