Using search I've read through some threads about after market radiators, mainly 3.8 models popped up in my search.
I've read about certain brands not fitting well in both engines, the mishimuto I recall having very bad fitment with the 2009-2012 models..in one thread, some guy had to saw away at the ends to get it to fit!
Well, I damaged my radiator and I need a new one. Trying to take advantage of this mishap and make this an upgrade instead of just replacing a broken piece. A lot of sites list that their radiators fit for 09-12 models. Don't see too many 2013 + ones.
I'm leaning towards going with Koyo, a bit pricey, but the only one I haven't heard any bad stories about BUT I haven't heard any good stories (or any at all lol) about their radiators in the 2013 2.0T.
Anywho, as the title reads, anyone whose done this, looking for feedback and some advice on a good radiator that FITS WITHOUT having to be hacked up with a saw
I installed a Koyo 3.8 rad in my 13 2.0 a few month ago with no big problem. The only thing you have to do is kind of custom make the lower radiator hose as it doesn't line up due to a 90 degree bend molded in the end cap of our 13+ radiators. I went to my local auto parts store and found a hose the same size as mine with a 90 degree bend and cut the bend off and matted it with my stock hose. Also the only problem i ran into was that my top radiator mounts ended up being about a half inch lower then they were suppose to so i just zip tied it for now temporarily until i make a fix but haven't yet touched it since i put my car in winter storage. Let me know if you have any other questions i can try to answer the best of my abilities.
After inspecting my car last night it looks like I don't need a new radiator, its the shroud fan that needs to be replaced.
Car starts to heat up while in stop n go traffic or waiting in grid for tracking. At cruise, hard or dd, coolant temp n engine Temps are fine.
The radiator is a little squished on the bottom, maybe a tiny leak, but I can patch that up. The shroud fan is cracked open n smashed in barely hanging on tho.
When u installed your radiator, I'm sure u got a good look at the fan and shroud. For installing the new shroud, I'm assuming bumper + radiator will need to come off the car in order to get room for a clean install? Or do you see any shortcuts/ways around that?
Thanks. Also - why the 3.8 koyo radiator for the 2.0 engine? U have a bigger turbo now or something?
The Fan Shroud I took out with the car on the ground all through the engine bay and wold be easy to just take out and replace with no removal on the rad or bumper.
Im running the v6 radiator because it is what fits our cars as the old 2.0 radiator has about a 4-5 inch section out of the bottom witch was where the old BK1's intercooler was. Now that we have a front mount on the BK2 there is no need for a rad with the section cut out of the bottom so the v6 radiator is the way to go.
A little revival here of an older thread, but on a current problem. I have a BK1 2011 2.0t Automatic. I am running a tsudo full turbo back exhaust, Mishimoto Race FMIC and piping, intercooler block-off plate, 525cc injectors, K&N CAI (Which looses functionality with the Mishimoto piping) and a tuned ECU from Tim at the GENCOUPE store (Formally Redline).
Problems have ensued......
Once the remapped ECU is in, two issues occur. No full throttle pulls or even passing gear without detonation. Being that I travel a many back roads, passing Sunday drivers is a common practice. If I try, unless easing into the throttle super slow, the engine gets to banging and the black cloud of death comes out the exhaust. I like the responsiveness and pull of the tune, but it is not worth loosing an engine. I'm trying to work with Tim to resolve the issue but he has been MIA for much of the last year.
This brings us to the radiator question. It gets hotter than Hades here in South Texas. Triple digits! With the stock ECD I never get hot. With the GENCOUPE tune, anything over 90 and I have to watch the temperature if I want to run the A/C. And with 100+, no a/c as the car starts getting hot in traffic. With the tune the fan runs all the time. But, it never kicks to the high-speed. I'm thinking this may be the issue. I have texted Tim but have not heard back.
Since the stock intercooler is gone, can the BK1 3.8 radiator be dropped in place of the 2.0 without modifications? Questions I have are the radiator and transmission hoses, a/c condenser,the fan shroud and the Mishimoto piping. If I stay with a stock configuration, CSF makes an Aluminum 2-Core for use with an automatic. Anyone installed one?
My apologies for wondering around on this one. I am just trying to get to the point where I can enjoy my car without hurting it in the process.
I just wanted to add that I did the same with my 2013 BK2. I had to use a strip of aluminum to move the mounting point for the top driver-side portion of the radiator, as well as two bent door hinges as stabilizing shims lower down.
RedRaspberry's DIY write-up on the process was super useful!
The V6 OE radiator is what they went to in the BK2 for the 2L. But it is only (the BK1 one) 3/4" thick. The BK1 OE 2L radiator is something like an inch thicker near 2"
You do have other options man. I understand being patient but after a year you can go to another tuner. Heck, you can even get remotely tuned for a few hundred bucks. That's well worth the better driveability and saving 3k on having to replace a motor if something really goes wrong. I realize you may not have the same steep inclines or mountains but sometimes letting off the gas is not an option. You need your car to be ready and respond in those moments. It's admirable you have been that patient but I'd rather have a motor not overheat on me when I need it most:/
The BK2 has a different t-stat housing that has a clip on hose IIRC. This may be defeated I don't know. If you are getting a longer radiator to fill the space the OE IC was then you will need a different hose that the OE.
I use a Dayco 71695 C and trim about an inch off.
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