Probably beating a dead horse... - Hyundai Genesis Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 03-29-2017 Thread Starter
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Probably beating a dead horse...

As a lurker I know this is a very largely discussed topic already, but I am at a loss and could use some creative ideas on how to pursue an issue I have. I have (and have had for a while) a snapped stud on my O2 housing that is causing me a lot of grief. I know these things are troublesome for just about everyone that has attempted to remove them for whatever reason. Well long story short, I have just recently purchased my 3rd set of studs with lock nuts from Beyond Redline, because leaving the snapped stud alone and trying to leave it with 4 always ends up leaving me with an exhaust leak after a month or so of driving. I really need to extract this last stud so that I can replace the gasket, and put all 5 new studs in that I have. Problem is that the snapped stud that is in there has no exposed threads that I can work with, and no amount of PB Blaster will free it so that I can get it out with vice grips. Trust me I've tried. If I had a drill bit that was small enough to drill the stud out, I am not confident I'd have the space to drill it out anyways, and I'd really rather not mess up the threads. The only thought I've been able to muster would be to carefully weld a nut to the tip of the stud and hope that putting a wrench to it breaks the stud loose rather than breaking the welds. I however do not have a welder, and would have to wait to borrow it from a friend.

I can't post the pictures that I have because my post count is too low. Just trying to get some insight before I get back to work on it since its flooding outside, and I'm kind of trapped right now.
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post #2 of 9 Old 03-29-2017
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If you dont have the tools take it to a machine shop

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post #3 of 9 Old 03-29-2017
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Good luck. Currently dealing with the same issue on my BK1. Waiting for my buddy to have a free day so that he can weld a nut to the snapped stud.

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post #4 of 9 Old 03-29-2017
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As a long time automotive machinist, your best bet is the machine shop. However if you attempt this yourself, DO NOT use a broken bolt extractor, the chances of using one with success is practically nil. Exhaust bolts deal with too much heat and are always seized. I always drill these out and helicoil them. Do not start out with too small a drill bit as a broken bit or extractor will be almost impossible to remove. The charge for a broken bolt was $20 if it had not been touched. $100+ for ezout or broken bit extracton.

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post #5 of 9 Old 03-29-2017
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if there is enough a tail end of the stud to grab on to, remove the piece, clamp it into a bench vice, and use a torch to heat the corner to a cherry red (point is to heat the metal round the stud to make it expand, not to heat the stud itself).

then use a pair of channel locks or vice grips to spin it through. Key is small movements, and work it back and forth. Remember, it being stuck and too much torque is what got you the position in the first place.
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post #6 of 9 Old 03-30-2017
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@AKGC ,
That is good advice, I misread the OPs opening post and thought there was no stud left and it was snapped off even...
Let me add a tip on top of your excellent advice...
I like to use a non-chromed pair of channel locks and grab the stud after heating for at least 20 seconds before I start to twist, this acts as a heat sink to transfer some of the heat that is inevitably going into the bolt thus additional contraction of said bolt.

Good luck,

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post #7 of 9 Old 03-31-2017
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I'm having the same issue and it sucks, one stud snapped and is causing an exhaust leak. Where can I purchase another metal gasket from, or is the dealer the only option?

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post #8 of 9 Old 04-02-2017
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If you can drill use a left handed drill bit about 1/3rd the diameter of the stud. With the drill in reverse it will snag the broken stud and back right out once it's an 1nch or so in. If you are lucky.

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post #9 of 9 Old 04-02-2017
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The problem is once it's seized it is for good, the best way is to drill it out and tap it again if you're lucky you can do it with the same size if not you have to drill it bigger and helycoill it to the correct size, I did it 3 times and I was lucky to be able to tap it the correct size the first time.

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My Dad told me I should turn the other cheek... but keep my fist ready...
2011 base Auto. BK2 engine, Elite Evo 9 kit with TD06SL2R-20G 7+7 billet compressor wheel and anti surge cover, BTR stage 3 tune, 550cc injectors, fuel return line, AEM Methanol injection,CXR intercooler, full exhaust with ARK, LSD...ported heads and intake manifold...bla.bla.bla
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