2013 Genesis Coupe - 2.0T: BOV Issue - Hyundai Genesis Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 11-18-2018 Thread Starter
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2013 Genesis Coupe - 2.0T: BOV Issue

Hello all,

It's been a while since I've last posted, and after many recent nights of researching and searching the forums I am breaking down in order to ask some questions about a big issue I'm having with my current setup. (Listed below)

2013 GC 2.0T Base
SFR 1.5 93+ Canned Tune
K&N Typhoon Intake System
ISR 02/DP/TP/3" straight pipe/Stock Muffler (changing to CBE soon)
Treadstone IC Hardpiping (Stock Intercooler)
Synapse V3 Synchronic BOV (Stock Boost Control Solenoid)
Dual Catch Cans
NGK 2309

Ever since the cold snap(s) that have have hit my area (Houston TX) lately, I have been experiencing issue with my BOV. The issue manifests itself as the BOV not actuating or not expelling excess boost off-throttle, or actuating late off-throttle. The same issue happened last year around this time, and my friend and I messed with my Synapse BOV until it was basically unusable. By that I mean that I lubricated it with an oil that made the o-rings swell, and not knowing about rubber o-rings and their vulnerability to petroleum based lubricants, made everything worse. I ended up buying another Synapse V3 BOV and upon installing it the problem was gone. Fast forward a year later and here we are now. The same issue has presented itself on another brand new Synapse V3 BOV,.

I noticed it when I was driving on the highway the other day, in which I would periodically accelerated and what not, and I noticed that the car felt like it had no power. I payed attention to the gauges on Torque Pro and noticed that the car was venting all boost above 10 PSI. I ran a fault code analysis and saw that the P2261 (Turbo/Supercharger Bypass Solenoid Malfunction) code was stored, so when I got to school I check all my vacuum lines running to the stock Boost Control Solenoid, and I didn't see anything out of the ordinary. So I cleared the code and went about my business. Later that day, I tested the car and it made full boost, running great. I then needed to drive home on the highway, and noticed that the car would make and hold max boost, but upon letting off the throttle, I noticed a horrible fluttering coming from the passenger side. I listened carefully and noticed that even on low load, light throttle, when would let off that the BOV was not actuating and the turbo was fluttering. Horrified, I babied it home and took off the BOV. I disassembled it, cleaned all the components with paper towels, and lubricated it with high quality spray silicone (as per Synapse Help Desk FAQ). When I installed the BOV back on the car, and test drove it, I was pleased that it ran great. No problems with the BOV consistent and instant actuation of the BOV every time I let off throttle.

Finally, a day later, when driving on the highway I noticed the same issue - no BOV actuation, except this time I was able to hold boost above 10 PSI so I know the ECU was not tripping into limp mode like last time. I ran another fault code analysis and noticed that there was no trouble code stored. Perplexed, I babied the car home again, and check all the vacuum lines running to the stock Boost Control Solenoid, Intake Manifold, and BOV. Nothing seemed awry, and the BOV was well lubricated and moving smoothly. At this point the only thing I can imagine is that the Boost Control Solenoid is stuck closed, and not allowing vacuum from the Intake Manifold vacuum storage tank to be routed to the BOV and open it. Thinking this may be an issue, I checked voltage at the Boost Control Solenoid with key-on, and saw 12-13.8V (charging/alternator voltage). Next I pulled this solenoid off and tested for continuity, which passed, and then measured the resistance, and saw that the reading was 30 Ohm, which is within factory spec (28-31 Ohm).

Now I am lost, I don't understand what could be causing the BOV to stay closed off throttle unless the Boost Control Solenoid was stuck. Can anyone help me figure this out?
Thanks
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2013 2.0T - 8AT
Base, Platinum Metallic
Current mods:
Throttle Body Bypass - K&N Typhoon Intake System - ISR 02/DP/TP/3" Straight pipe to stock muffler (No res)- Treadstone IC hardpiping (stock IC) - Synapse Synchronic V3 BOV (Running with stock solenoid) - SFR 93+ Stage 1.5 Canned Tune - NGK 2309 Colder Plugs, Gap: 0.030" - Dual Oil Catch Cans (IM Side & TB Side) - Rotella T6 5W-40 Synthetic Oil (OEM Oil Filters) - OEM DRL Foglights (see my thread for more info)

Last edited by MG93; 11-19-2018 at 01:36 PM.
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post #2 of 11 Old 11-19-2018
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I think the V3 maybe defective from production , mine worked nice for about 5 months . With a hand held vac pump needed to push the poppet in 1/4in or so for it to seal . Synapse is supposed to send me an end cap under warranty (I think they are going to charge me for shipping ,said they were going to find cheapest ) . This has been 3 weeks since first contacting them , not the best service . Now running the V2 that has served me flawlessly since when my car was new.
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2012 Red premium 2.0t M/t
K&N Typhoon intake
TWN Big R type 600 gram shifter knob
Quaife LSD
SFR stage 1 canned
Synapse BOV
Uniq performance rigid collar kit
Solo Performance HI-flow cat down pipe + cat back
Saikou Michi catch cans
Uniq Performance Strut Bar
BBM Spoiler
ATQ Short shifter + bushings
13+Flywheel , Veleo HD cutch and throw out bearing , APR FW bolts , SS braided hose
Stop tech SS brake lines
Uniq Performance FMIC
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post #3 of 11 Old 11-19-2018
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You can ground the other side of the solenoid connector (opposite 12v+) and actuate the solenoid when the key is on.

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post #4 of 11 Old 11-19-2018 Thread Starter
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Hey all,

I am writing to give an update on what I have done since my last post. Red, I took your advice and ran jumper wires from the battery positive post to the solenoid positive and when I grounded the solenoid I heard it click. So as it is, the solenoid actuates very well and is audible. So I am still perplexed...

I checked over everything again, and I noticed that the green and white check valve on the intake manifold makes a sound like a kazoo when I blow through it in the air flow direction. (Probably normal, can't blow the opposite way). I noticed that when I take off the rightmost (looking from the front of the car) vacuum line on the Boost Control Solenoid and push in the piston on the BOV and then cap the line with my thumb, that the piston does not stay fully retracted. It gives a little (probably 1/2") and then maintains equilibrium position until I release my thumb. Is this normal?

After that, I took the BOV off again, disassembled it and checked for anomalies, then reassembled it without the preload spring. Upon installation and testing, I noticed that the BOV was actually discharging under very light boost (Low load, 1-5 PSI), but was remaining shut under moderate to heavier boost levels. I know that the Synapse Synchronic BOV is a push type, and that the more boost signal you give it, the harder it is to open it, so I wonder why all of he sudden it is not able to open under normal vacuum conditions. What is even more weird, is that this same issue happened year ago on another Synchronic V3 BOV aound the same time of year (colder months) and the problem went away when I got a new Synchronic V3 BOV.

So far I know the Boost Control Solenoid is functioning properly, that there are no boost leaks (holds full boost, just wont actuate BOV off-throttle), and there are no fault codes. What could this be? Can anyone offer any insight? I am probably going to have to run another setup. The Treadstone Hard IC Piping kit I have has a welded HKS flange so I guess I could run the SSQV v4, what do you guys think? I really liked the Synapse, I just don't understand why they have failed me twice already in the same time of year and life span. Also, I have NEVER been able to get any support from the when I put in a ticket or call.

2013 2.0T - 8AT
Base, Platinum Metallic
Current mods:
Throttle Body Bypass - K&N Typhoon Intake System - ISR 02/DP/TP/3" Straight pipe to stock muffler (No res)- Treadstone IC hardpiping (stock IC) - Synapse Synchronic V3 BOV (Running with stock solenoid) - SFR 93+ Stage 1.5 Canned Tune - NGK 2309 Colder Plugs, Gap: 0.030" - Dual Oil Catch Cans (IM Side & TB Side) - Rotella T6 5W-40 Synthetic Oil (OEM Oil Filters) - OEM DRL Foglights (see my thread for more info)

Last edited by MG93; 11-20-2018 at 05:36 AM.
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post #5 of 11 Old 11-19-2018
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The science behind denser air (colder ambient temperature) during the winter is that air pressure is NOT the same during a warm summer day (at sea level).

Pressure and temperature are directly proportional to each other (Gay-Lussac's Law), in order words.. as temperature drops, so will the pressure! Vice-versa.

Our Synapse BOV operates via a spring that is activated depending on the vacuum pressure it's sourced from. Some have tried to use the green/white or black/white check valve instead of solenoid.


BUT WAIT THIS IS SYNAPSE so we'll stick with solenoid it's meant for! (Assuming its functioning correctly).


So there are two variables, pressure and spring. The pressure was reduced (because it's cold) but the spring remained the same.. this will cause the spring to be too stiff to open up the valve!

The solution supposedly is to get a less stiff (read: softer) spring.

In theory this works because other companies like Tial offer multiple springs with different spring constants (force).


BUT WAIT THIS IS SYNAPSE so we'll stick with the same spring it's meant for! (Assuming its functioning correctly).


-------

So our problem isn't really the BOV.. its the lubricant you used.

Forget about grease from permatex, mobil 1, motomaster etc (those thicc red gunk), WD-40 (LOL), vaseline (bruh) petroleum, etc..

Here's what you do.. The grease that you should buy is... sewing machine lubricant.

Designed for metal on metal sliding contact, safe on the O-rings. Grease every oil change.


So how do I know this? Well I had the exact same issue as you.
Every friggin' winter.. Same codes, same issue, same BULLSHIT.

Until..


Sewing Machine Lubricant!!!!

Gencoupe Mod and Maintenance YOUTUBE CHANNEL:

https://www.youtube.com/c/gatlinskarX/videos
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hdebnath,

Thank you for your reply! That was a hoot to read.

I am definitely going to try the sewing machine oil. Do you use a specific brand or just any sewing machine oil? I am looking at Triflow lubricant on amazon that sells for pretty cheap and has good reviews, but there are a lot of brands. Also, when you are lubricating, are you just finger painting each part with a light coat while disassembled, or are you just dabbing the nozzle through the mounting hole and touching the piston?

Thanks for your input and I hope to hear back from you.

EDIT:

Also, does anyone know where I can buy replacement o-rings for the Synapse Synchronic V3 BOV? There are 4 main o-rings (2 on the piston, 1 small one in the center of the main housing that the piston slides on, and one on the end of the plunger), and three on the outer housing. I have not measured them, but am wondering if anyone knows where to buy some replacement ones since Synapse does not offer a rebuild kit for the V3.

Nevermind about the o-rings, I found an assembly model on their help desk website and was able to open it in Solidworks e-Drawings. All of the o-rings specs are shown in the model, and I have made a diagram for future reference in case anyone needs to know their dimensions to order them from a hydraulic store.



2013 2.0T - 8AT
Base, Platinum Metallic
Current mods:
Throttle Body Bypass - K&N Typhoon Intake System - ISR 02/DP/TP/3" Straight pipe to stock muffler (No res)- Treadstone IC hardpiping (stock IC) - Synapse Synchronic V3 BOV (Running with stock solenoid) - SFR 93+ Stage 1.5 Canned Tune - NGK 2309 Colder Plugs, Gap: 0.030" - Dual Oil Catch Cans (IM Side & TB Side) - Rotella T6 5W-40 Synthetic Oil (OEM Oil Filters) - OEM DRL Foglights (see my thread for more info)

Last edited by MG93; 11-20-2018 at 02:08 PM.
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post #7 of 11 Old 11-20-2018
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I use a silicon grease for orings. Never have seen anything work better on rubber or plastic. But you just do each oring between your fingers and no excess, just a coating. Then install.

I have a Forge BOV and it needs yearly maintenance. They sell a kit for them too which comes with a small amount of grease, new orings and a new piston. I would think Synapse does too for their goods?

2010 Red 2.0L track

Quote:
If the Pharaohs had duct tape, the Sphinx would still have a nose...."
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Red,

Thanks for your input, I read somewhere that BOV's must be lubed conservatively, and that a light coat is desirable. I just wanted to be sure. I'm not sure if I should use grease because the small o-ring that the actuator piston rides on can really bog the movement down if the oil (or grease) is too thick.

hdebnath,

What sewing machine oil do you recommend?

2013 2.0T - 8AT
Base, Platinum Metallic
Current mods:
Throttle Body Bypass - K&N Typhoon Intake System - ISR 02/DP/TP/3" Straight pipe to stock muffler (No res)- Treadstone IC hardpiping (stock IC) - Synapse Synchronic V3 BOV (Running with stock solenoid) - SFR 93+ Stage 1.5 Canned Tune - NGK 2309 Colder Plugs, Gap: 0.030" - Dual Oil Catch Cans (IM Side & TB Side) - Rotella T6 5W-40 Synthetic Oil (OEM Oil Filters) - OEM DRL Foglights (see my thread for more info)
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post #9 of 11 Old 11-21-2018
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Originally Posted by MG93 View Post

hdebnath,

Thank you for your reply! That was a hoot to read.

I am definitely going to try the sewing machine oil. Do you use a specific brand or just any sewing machine oil? I am looking at Triflow lubricant on amazon that sells for pretty cheap and has good reviews, but there are a lot of brands. Also, when you are lubricating, are you just finger painting each part with a light coat while disassembled, or are you just dabbing the nozzle through the mounting hole and touching the piston?

Thanks for your input and I hope to hear back from you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MG93 View Post

hdebnath,

What sewing machine oil do you recommend?

You want to disassemble the entire box housing and lubricate everything inside and around the piston + o-ring. It's not a viscous liquid, has a thin property like coconut oil so it'll seep around the entire surface area!

I'll make a video about this in the next couple of weeks so whoever in the future comes across this problem will have a viable solution!

The amazon lubricants work just as well as any other brand, tbh look for a good reviewed one! I borrowed mine from my neighbour and he didn't know where he got his from, just appeared (and worked) like magic haha
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https://www.youtube.com/c/gatlinskarX/videos

Last edited by hdebnath; 11-22-2018 at 06:48 AM.
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post #10 of 11 Old 11-30-2018 Thread Starter
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Hello all,

I am writing this to provide an update on my current situation regarding the Synapse v3 Synchronic BOV. I took hdebnath's advice and purchased some sewing machine lubricant from Amazon. I purchased two types, TriFlow Superior Lubricant (with PFTE) and Royal Purple Synfilm. I also ordered all new Buna-N 70A O-rings from theoringstore.com. Before the O-rings arrived, I had disassembled the BOV and took out all the O-rings, and then sprayed everything down with brake cleaner to remove old lubricant and residue. Afterwards I put all the O-rings back, then lubricated the BOV with the TriFlow lubricant. After putting the BOV back together and installing it on the car, I went for a drive. Immediately I noticed that the BOV was working and actuating even when letting off the throttle under very low boost scenarios (ideal). I was very happy, but by the end of my test drive the BOV response became more and more delayed, until the point that it stopped altogether, and the surging/fluttering resumed. When I got back home and popped the hood to take a look, I noticed that the plunger was retracted (BOV open). This is weird because I was still making boost when it was fluttering, so I assumed that the plunger is just sticky from the lubricant and was probably still opening and closing, just not fast enough.

So fast forward a few days, and the O-rings arrive. I really liked how theoringstore packaged everything in little individual bags and made it easy to store the rest with a nice descriptive label for the future. I took one of each O-ring and got ready to disassemble the BOV again. I also need to note that in the diagram above, and in the Synapse eDrawings file, there is a very small (2mm x 4mm) O-ring that fits inside the bore of the piston, that receives the tail of the plunger. Both Synapse V3 BOV's I have owned have never had this O-ring when disassembling the from the first time. So, I had ordered those O-rings after I saw that my BOV's were missing this O-ring. Anyways, I disassembled the BOV, scrapped the old O-rings, and cleaned all the pieced with brake cleaner as before. Then I sprayed the components off with compressed. Next, I installed all the new O-rings I got, and only put one or two drops of the Royal Purple Synfilm on them and rubbed them between my fingers to disperse the lubricant. To reiterate that statement, I basically applied on or two drops of the lubricant on the O-ring and massaged them in my hand to disperse the lubricant evenly, all before installing each one. The order that I did things was:

Lubricant used: Royal Purple 02514 Synfilm High Performance Synthetic Air Compressor and Industrial Lubricant - 2 oz. (Amazon)
1. Disassembled, cleaned, compressed air
2. Piston Housing- install O-rings (2) on the piston, then the bigger O-ring (1) that seals the Plunger Housing to the Piston Housing, and finally the small O-ring (1) inside the plunger receiver bore. Install piston into Piston Housing. (I could not get the 2mm x 15mm (1) O-ring I ordered to fit in the center-most groove, so I left the stock one.
3. Plunger - install O-ring (1) on the plunger, insert plunger into receiving bore (small O-ring installed previously present). Hold plunger face with hand while tightening set screw with lock washer on back of piston.
4. Plunger Housing (front piece) - install onto Piston Housing
5. Back Cover - install very thin large O-ring (1) on outer bore, install pre-tensioning spring, then install Back Cover onto the Piston Housing.
6. Install flange O-ring on BOV and install on car.
After all of this, I installed the BOV on the car, and when I went for a drive. Again, the BOV seemed to be working normally again. (Still cold weather in Houston) This time I noticed that the action seemed to persist and I gained confidence in the BOV. I actually drove the car to school 40 miles away on the highway and the BOV never missed a beat.

I’ll come full-circle and close this out by saying that if anyone experiences this issue with their Synapse V3 Synchronic BOV, and is lost, please follow the advice in this post, and the posts from others above.
Thanks hdebnath, Red, and Jimmy.
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2013 2.0T - 8AT
Base, Platinum Metallic
Current mods:
Throttle Body Bypass - K&N Typhoon Intake System - ISR 02/DP/TP/3" Straight pipe to stock muffler (No res)- Treadstone IC hardpiping (stock IC) - Synapse Synchronic V3 BOV (Running with stock solenoid) - SFR 93+ Stage 1.5 Canned Tune - NGK 2309 Colder Plugs, Gap: 0.030" - Dual Oil Catch Cans (IM Side & TB Side) - Rotella T6 5W-40 Synthetic Oil (OEM Oil Filters) - OEM DRL Foglights (see my thread for more info)
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post #11 of 11 Old 12-24-2018
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Originally Posted by MG93 View Post

Iíll come full-circle and close this out by saying that if anyone experiences this issue with their Synapse V3 Synchronic BOV, and is lost, please follow the advice in this post, and the posts from others above.
Thanks hdebnath, Red, and Jimmy.
For future reference if anyones needs a video guide, there are 3 things you can do:

Lubricate BOV
Change vacuum source to intake manifold
Replace RCV solenoid


Gencoupe Mod and Maintenance YOUTUBE CHANNEL:

https://www.youtube.com/c/gatlinskarX/videos
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