2014 2.0T ISR 3" Catless O2 Housing Info - Hyundai Genesis Forum
 
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2014 2.0T ISR 3" Catless O2 Housing Info

Was going to do a DIY but there's more than enough out there, just wanted to share some info for this install that may be helpful to others.

I did this install in my small ass garage with basic hand tools, a jack, and jack stands. I would say it's somewhere around a 6/10 difficulty with some basic mechanic knowledge.

I would recommend disconnecting this (honestly not sure what it is and too lazy to look it up) and moving it to the side. Gives you much more room to work.

Image won't show up. Here's the link: https://imgur.com/YkXh3EX

First of all, the horror stories of the turbo studs. I did not have any issues with studs breaking. The only issue I had was one stud stayed in the stock O2 housing instead of staying in the turbo. Just replaced it with a 10x1.25 bolt.

What to do to avoid having a turbo-stud-horror-story:
-PB Blast the absolute **** out of the bolts days before the install. I started three days before. Remove the heat shield and DRENCH those ****ers in PB Blaster. Do it when your engine is hot and cold. When it's hot, you'll see lots of smoke from it burning, DON'T breathe this in. For reference, I used almost a full bottle of PB blaster on these 6 bolts in 3 days.

-Be GENTLE when you first try and turn the nut. Chances are they haven't moved since they were put on, so they'll be on there good. I used a regular hand ratchet/socket (14mm I believe). You'll want to hold the actual socket itself to make sure it doesn't slide off the nut and strip it.

-Be logical. I only say this because two of the bolts are a huge PITA to remove. The two on the rightmost side when looking at it from the front of the car. One is on the bottom side and one is sorta of inline with the engine. Just be smart, and patient.

These two bolts on the stock O2 housing took me probably an hour to remove. The higher one can be removed standing over the engine bay, but you need to remove the heat shield on the manifold or else you can't see it. The one on the bottom I eventually got from underneath the car with a regular wrench, and if you have a stubby wrench I would highly recommend using that. It's not very accessible at all, but you have a little bit of wiggle room to get at it with one hand. This was extremely frustrating to get off, but it's possible so patience is key.

You'll also need an O2 sensor socket to remove the O2 sensors from the stock housing. I picked one up for $15 at Canadian Tire, all auto parts stores will have them.

Once the stock O2 housing is off, I HIGHLY recommend removing your downpipe (if it's aftermarket), and attaching your O2 housing to it first, then putting it all back as one piece. I left my downpipe and it was a PITA to get everything attached again at the end.

Also, use the OEM gaskets from the O2 housing. 9/10 times the ones that come with your aftermarket O2 housing are complete trash and you'll blow them within a week.

With this ISR O2 housing, my setup is: ISR 3" catless O2 housing > Uniq 3" Catless downpipe > 3" ISR GT single exit.

Stock tune. Loud (but not obnoxious unless you get on it). And yes, it shoots flames now when I shift hard. Friends love it.

Good luck!
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