Posting since it hasn't been revisited in awhile.
I'm sure no one loves the manual transmission. I've posted off and on, mostly in the SOVA thread, about not being able to downshift an not being able to make a full power 1-2 shift without going slooOOW.
Changing my motor oil I decide to try something else having access to just about any transmission fluid on hand.
I settled on syncromesh after some reading, especially on the Tiburon forums.
This stuff here:
So with that massive lead-in I pulled out the shop pulled a full power 1-2 shift and it actually went in. by the time I made my garage i actually made a 3-1 downshift.
Yeah I know, Well I'm excited.
Don't know the long term but the Syncromesh does make a difference.
I changed to Amsoil GL4 about 20k hoping for an improvement. It made none.
I rebuild transmissions, I actually checked to see if any parts had been superseded that I could swap in. Fluid isn't a magic bullet but I don't hate shifting as much.
Update: After driving for awhile the transmission feels "notchier".
Upshifts are better, downshifts are still hit or miss but better.
Most manuals take GL4. Older ones could take GL5. The properties are very different, GL4 is quite "slippery".
Syncromesh is light as motor oil where GL4 and 5 are thick as snot.
I use royal purple gear oil in my tranny,it is rated both GL4 and GL5
I didn't have any problems with my tranny,but when I reached 26,000 miles I decided to change it any way.
I changed the differential oil at the same time and now after 39,000 miles it's still going strong,no problems.
you can run it for a long time without worrying,as royal purple was designed for offroad extreme driving,like the Baja race's etc.
so no problems if you run it for a year or more before you change it again.
@Franklin Do you know what that synchromesh is rated at? I wouldn't put something in my transmission that didn't specifically state whether it was GL-4 and GL-5. Our transmissions are not compatible with GL-5 according to Hyundai. I'd also be concerned about the VI if it doesn't explicitly state it on the bottle... not to mention that VI is different at the same weight between GL4 and GL5
@Dirtyloud - GL4 is an API standard and it is pretty specific a GL4 oil has no pour depressants and no anti shock additives and less EP additives and DIFFERENT friction modifiers than GL5.
The other difference between GL4 and GL5 is that GL4 is non-ferrous metal safe (brass, bronze, etc.) since we have brass synchros, our trans is specced for GL4. Apparently most synthetic GL5s now have shock deactivators that keep the shock inhibiting (think Redline Shockproof) additives from corroding yellow metals...so much so that the GL4 spec is becoming obsolete... You can find good info on it at - Bob is the Oil Guy
@ flacoupe That's not possible. They're completely different. You may have a GL5 oil that says it's non ferrous metal safe, but that doesn't make it a GL4. They have completely different profiles. GL5 is differential oil. End of story. It has different friction modifiers from GL4, and more of them. It's also got typically twice the EP additives that GL4 has, and it's much more viscous at the same weight than a GL4 oil. The trans is specced for GL4, you should put GL4 in it. GL5 only in the differential.
The only issue is: the transmission shifts like crap with GL4.
It's not what's called for but it makes a needed improvement.
The question is whether the Syncromesh will protect from long term wear.
Gl4 reduces metal to metal contact. In a transmission that already has issues is not helping.
Covering up the symptoms isn't the same as fixing the problem. I understand wanting smoother shifts, but when a specific heat dissipation rating, viscosity index, and modifier % is specified from the manufacturer...it usually is done so for a reason. No arguments here that the trans shifts like ****. I'm actually putting redline MT-85 in my trans this afternoon and probably flushing the redline 75-90 I put in the diff 3 weeks ago in case there was any **** left in there. I have to pull the subframe, so I might as well if I have enough left over.
I'll let you know what I think about the MT85. This is my first trans fluid change since the trans got replaced at 27k. New trans...still shifts like ****. IMO the shifting issues are DMF related and not so much the trans. Maybe the trans isn't great, but the DMF just exacerbates the problem and is a bigger piece of ****.
What does dimethylformamide have to do with shifting? :-O
If there was a fix for the transmission I'm sure there's a bunch of us that would do it.
There's no new internal parts and the '13 is the same parts as well. I checked the part numbers.
IMO, that leaves us patching what Hyundai gave us.
The fix is the flywheel/clutch assembly. If you're on a 3.8 you can change the flywheel to a single mass no problem. The 2.0T should be internally balanced before switching to a SMF.
well bked the royal purple states right on the bottle it is rated GL-4 and GL-5
i gueass because they make such a superior product they can rate it as such
i used the 75w/90, and i used it in both my tranny and diff.
next time you go to the auto parts store pick up a bottle and read the label,you might learn something.
Oh okay flacoupe. While I'm reading your royal purple label, why don't you read one of these or 43,000 other sites that list time again the American Petroleum Institue Gear Oil Specification Standards that explicitly state that GL-5 has a higher amount of additive chemistry than GL-4. I'm sure Royal Purple is more up on API standards than the API.
I only say this to save you a trip to the dealership and 3 weeks of arguing to get a new trans. Royal Purple will destroy your transmission.
Do REAL research on there product (not whats on the bottle) there gear oil is 100% intened, completely and only for mechanical commponant drag reduction. THe oil only serves as a lubricate it has NO shook resistant additives. Royal Purple make there gear oil for the mechanical commponents to not have lo resistance, not to protect the components.
I have been using royal purple almost a year and a half,no problems whatsoever.
in fact I get 2 to 3 miles per gallon more gas mileage too.
I am not changing because you think the sky is falling!!!
I use it in my motor too and it is fine.
well royal purple is great for the engine, I use it as well, but the engine is a completely far better design then the trans.
I've called royal purple, they openly state there product is not for longevity, it's clearly 100%, no reservations, performance. The reason you see better MPG is just that, it has less drag=less friction=less drivetrain power lose=better MPG because ethe engine needs to try less to generate the same amount on moving torque
I don't think the point of API ratings has anything to do with "quality" any more than saying butter is saturated fat and oil is unsaturated. It's just chemical make up.
If you want to judge quality you have to do oil samples and see what wear particulates are in your used oil...measure oxidation, dirt, all that crap. the API specs are purely regarding intended use and minimum qualifications to meet that lubrication standard. Different types of gears and machines require different types of lubrication. Try to put a straight weight unmodified GL-1 in a modern differential you're gonna have a bad time. I doubt there's anything wrong with putting Wal-Mart brand Gl-5 oil in your differential. Hell...Mobil makes a $22 oil filter for the 3.8...The purolators I've been buying for $7 seem to work just fine. I'm not commenting on the quality of Royal Purple. I'm saying with how different the chemical make-up of GL-4 and GL-5 are, I wouldn't trust a "magic bullet" that claims to be serviceable for both with not just a lack of detrimental effects, but an increase in performance and logevity (says so right on the site...)
Don't mean to thread Jack but is it possible to just take the shift boot and shifter off and put the trans oil in that way. Seems easier then from underneath?
I don't think so. The shifter is connected to a long shaft underneath that connects to the tranny about a foot down. You'll literally just pour on the ground if you did that.
Or just put your car on 4 jacks and then it's still level...cuz I can't fit under my car at all when it's on the ground...can't eve get my shoulder under lol.
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