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True cold air intake

15K views 70 replies 14 participants last post by  lvdukerider 
#1 ·
has anyone actually taken out the reservoir to make a custom intake would be interested in seeing some pics of some thinking of doing it and cutting out the piece under the fog light
 
#2 ·
Yep,I've done it (to include opening up the right side fog light fake screen and making it functional ) and so have others.Do a search and will find pics .
 
#4 ·
My pic's were taken down by 3rd party host .It is a mod that is well worth it, I'm in Texas so with the crazy heat here it is paramount to do anything to bring thermals in check .Yes it works, I data logged and am glad I made a true CAI system. titan2782 and andbudzi still have pic's up .
 
#5 ·
Here is exactly what you want to do, just take away the turbo> The piping for your intake runs the same route to your TB.

Video was for IC explanation and intake routing.. In this vid the air filter element is not installed yet but you can see where it goes clearly. As long as you shield your intake piping with gold wrap etc you will have ambient intake temps at minimum.

Enjoy:
https://youtu.be/e-ULsnlqJf0
 
#6 · (Edited)
This is what my fog replacements look like. They are carbon fiber, made by Enthuspec and can be purchased from Genracer. Im am a boosted 3.8 but as mentioned, just need to fabricate custom aluminum tubing and be good with welding aluminum.

I added the screening to passenger side as that is where my trans cooler is located.

EDIT - it is not letting me post the pictures due to image size.
 
#15 · (Edited)
My car has foglights - 8" diameter intake filter fits snug, fully fills up space between foglight and fender liner. Filter is large because it fits over velocity stack.

Fresh air come from front grill opening, so filter does not get soaked with water (if I were to open up fog light area).


 
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#16 ·
Air path to intake.
OEM grill does not have opening this far to the side as afternarket ... if my memory serves me right.


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#17 ·
I cut the fake mesh out of the fog light assy and with the fog light assy bezel screws I screwed some gutter screening in place (from Home Depot) to make the CAI truly function at speeds.My CAI is similar to andbudzi but I'm using 4 inch O.D. aluminum piping from Spectre .also used 1... 40 degree rubber elbow ,1... 40 degree aluminum elbow and made a pivot bracket mounted to the fender well for support .Also I am using a 4 to 6 inch bell velocity stack to which my over sized K&N filter is attached to.My Data log showed on a hot 101 degree day moving at 45 mph air intake temps of 88 degrees .CAI with water being sprayed during spirited runs (2,500 through 6,650 rpm's) from my AEM water/ methanol system drops inlet manifold temps such that after a hard run I can open the hood and touch the upper intake manifold which is cool to the touch .I have 2 tanks for my water/meth system ,1 gallon for w/m during nitrous runs and 3 gallons for distilled water during NA runs .
 
#20 ·
Even though my GC is not my daily driver ,I keep a small screw driver in the glove box so I can disconnect the inlet tube from the throttle body if I do by chance get caught in the rain .But yeah, you must be aware of road and pending weather conditions .
 
#22 ·
I would love to do this mod for my 2.0!

Does anyone have a solution for a windshield reservoir? even if it is really small one?

I do use my windshield fluid on a regular basis, so I dont want to sacrifice that functionality.
 
#23 ·
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#27 ·
The oem set up is a true cold air system...
 
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#28 ·
Wrong Flylow.It is an attemp of an OEM CAI system.

Wrong,the air filter plastic case has a 3 inch by 3 inch opening located in proximity of the inner fender well that constantly suck engine bay heat into the intake tract.If you seal it off ,install a K&N or =2 in a performance filter then cut open the slits in front of the snorkel to let it get more cooler air ,then and only then will it be a true functioning cold air system .:nerd:
 
#30 ·
There's no such thing as "cold air intake" in Texas. That setup with the filter down low in that well will suck 130 degree air off of the pavement when dry, and water when wet ;) Now, you can throw a block of dry ice down in there every 30 miles or so to cool things down :)
 
#32 ·
Wrong GC Rider, I DATA log real time ,with my CAI at 45 MPH HWY 3 & 90 plus degrees that day (3:00 pm) my air inlet temp was 88 degrees .Not sure what road surface temps where (I'm sure it was 120 plus degs ) . IF YOU ARE NEAR ME I CAN PROVE YOU WRONG AND WE CAN PLACE $$$ ON IT,let me know and I am more than happy to prove you wrong.>:D This is 1 of the main problems with side bar keyboard mechanics passing out the wrong info,it puts a stop on progression of this platform .>:D
 
#31 ·
Engine air is 130 + 20 or more

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#34 ·
With a OBD scanner you can DATA log and get a precise reading from the IAT sensor ,though it might be 120-130 road temps, you will have a lower temp reading once you are moving 30 to 40 plus MPH .When sitting still at a light it will began to rise fast .:nerd:But will of course go back down below ambient once you are moving at speed again .
 
#33 ·
Heat soak is the only problem when not moving with a good designed CAI system .
 
#49 · (Edited)
" And I'm talking about air temps, not flow restrictions."


Yes................and what we are saying is these air directly related. Just like I have huge hood vents and he has a CF hood with buku vents. So opening up air "flow" and giving it a way out.

This is illustrated quite well in the case of my transaxle cooler. It has a pulling fan, it is exposed to an open fog light vent so it also gets direct high pressure air. But most importantly the air has somewher to go, taking the heat with it.

Ultimately it all works to drop your "air temps" and keep them at at least ambient. Potato, po-TA-toe ! LOL.

Even before I had mine I had always heard that Gens of any mark were hotass running cars with poor engine ventilation.
 
#51 ·
Since you responded in a civil manner.

You are thinking of the area behind the radiator (on the bk2 3.8 from the service manual it appears the transcooler is integrated with the radiator, and couldn't find reference to a secondary transcooler) as always a high pressure zone. High/low pressure zones are dynamic, they change at speed.
With pressure zones you always have to compare 1 area with another.
At speed the area near the firewall is almost always a high pressure zone and the area behind the radiator being a low pressure zone, because of the 3/4 of the engine is open from below (plastic 2 panel shroud on the bottom of the radiator/engine). And the radiator fans aren't always running (unless you wired them that ways). The radiator is a flow restriction.

But it's your car, do what you want with it.
I'm just saying from what I've learned from trying to make my 280z with KA24 swap from losing steering feel (front end lift) at over 60mph (BTW this happens with stock first gen Z cars too). stock open hood vents.
If you want to have a laugh, look up the drag coefficient of a first gen Z car. It's an aerodynamic nightmare lol

I don't recall the 3.8 regularly running hot, the bk1 2.0 do and I blame it on:
having a tiny radiator
engine being 9.4ish:1 compression and running 15~psi (how many of us are running stock psi now-a-days)
hyundai claiming that it will run fine on regular gas
 
#55 · (Edited)
To LPGenCoupe , in post #48 of 54 - page 3 you jumped on the fan boy train ride .Did you survive that train wreck ?
 
#57 ·
Didn't see much of a wreck, nor do I care. I liked the "done feeding the troll" cuz I didn't subscribe to this thread to hear 2 guys go back and forth about how great your car sucks (air) and how cool it is in the process. I was happy cuz I figured after that post, it would be done, but clearly you've gotta have the last word, and a few more after.

I'm a machinist/shade-tree mechanic, but my experience is mostly with "American Muscle" (if you can even call it that these days) and with building rides that are more show than go. Now that my baby's warranty is deceased, I was looking for ideas and knowledge to make it more fun to drive, but that's hard to do when people are arguing over how cool the air actually is.

Sincerely, Thank You for your service, but I don't think boasting your military background scores many points on a forum full of gear heads and wanna-be's...especially when you wanna chest up and talk down to other people, like someone liking the thought that you 2 would finally shut up about who's got legit proof about their claims, and leave this to ideas about making a better CAI.

Never-the-less, even though I haven't disagreed with you at all, I'm certain you're gonna have to respond to this too...taking this thread further from the point, and making sure it remains about you.

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#58 ·
La Port,not far from me .If you would care to speak in person that would be fine,let me know by PM .I argue the point because of a severe lack of understanding in the performance aspect of the 3.8 platform and would like for the 3.8 - 2nd gen Gen Coupe owners to understand and know what they can do with their platform to gain real performance with out going broke and wasting money on BS systems of any sort .Your stating of ''arguing'' might be so ,in the auto performance world there will always be such interaction / arguing .As long as the truth comes out, it is fine .You speaking on the my service by saying ''thank you'' and then turn around and type that I boasted. Where did I boast ? in ending,I will always have a response to anyone or thing that opens it's sewer in a disrespectful way such as you LPGenCoupe.NEXT!!!!!
 
#59 ·
Boast:
1. talk with excessive pride and self-satisfaction about one's achievements, possessions, or abilities.

Someone referring to you as a troll and you "casually" mentioning your service and diminishing the comments of others is by definition boastful.

Your sewer comment is cute, but I said nothing disrespectful to anyone.

And your whole NEXT!!! thing every time you think you've said something profound (as if to egg on others to argue), is not only annoying, it's the main thing making you appear boastful...J/S
 
#61 ·
I didn't want to swing the conversation that direction. I just wanted proof of what was being claimed. Otherwise, as I said before, everybody would be back to their own speculations.

I didn't get the text, but I blame that on tmobile and my current location.
 
#60 ·
LP, just what are you adding to this thread? We dont really need your moderating (if thats what you feel you are doing)...instead you are more instagating and stirring the pot.

Some of the issues here are what some feel as "safety" running a CAI and some feel it does no good. If one is installed correctly, it will obviously be beneficial than sucking in stagnant hot engine air.

With some of us having a turbo running at 800+ degrees, the air in the engine bay area is not what we want sucking into the motor. Are there risks of the CAI in wet states, yes however many with fully built cars understand this and many are not our dailys so we can drive safely as needed.

Furthermore, do I care if some believes in a CAI? No, not really. I know and I care, for my car and benefit. Some on here have seen my build and I know what I have and I have worked closely with my builders/fabricators and other builders, tuners, vendors and have done what I need to to best set up my car.
 
#62 ·
I'm just curious, where did you put your MAF sensor in your new CAI? I'm looking at making a custom carbon fiber cold air intake, and just don't know where to put the opening for the MAF sensor. I currently have an Injen SRI in my 3.8... can I put the new MAF sensor in the same spot as the Injen? Will it affect the reading at all?
 
#63 ·
Intake Hoses LLC in Spokane WA has a nice selection of carbon fiber tubing and elbows of many sizes for you to make a true cold air intake system such as mine . Tele #509-489-3684 . very good pricing too .
 
#64 ·
I put in Injen's CAI and removed the gigantic OEM window washing fluid reservoir, redirected it to closer to the passenger and used a small reservoir. Then if you open up the false grills around your lights you have great cold air inflow. Definitely get the HydroShield cover for filter. They are cheap and really work well to avoid any water intake. They also keep your filter much cleaner. I drive in the rain all the time with NO problems
 
#65 ·
Best air indeed for true CAI is from the front end grill. Still gets all the air and no water. Just remove part of the plastic air diverter or get MS grill with wider opening that goes past diverter.

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