How to Jack Car up - Hyundai Genesis Forum
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post #1 of 20 Old 05-26-2015 Thread Starter
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How to Jack Car up

Hi Guys,

I need a DIY on two seperate topics on jacking the GenCoupe up.

1) where to jack on car? I have been using the pinch welding along the outside bottom of car, but has bent more and more with every jack.

2) How to jack the rear of the car only. I am trying to install a new rear sway bar, but since the front wheels are free to move, how do I jack the back up? I have 1 set of wheel chocks, but what if the car moves the other direction?
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post #2 of 20 Old 05-26-2015
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Here are the jack points:



As for jacking up the rear for a sway bar install, I would highly recommend you drive the front onto ramps and then jack up the back, it'll give you more working room and it's safer.

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post #3 of 20 Old 05-26-2015
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If I need to use a jackstand I usually jack up the car with a 1 foot piece of 2x4 on the frame rails. I have not bent anything doing that. It would be a good idea to also use a piece of wood on the front and rear jack points as well.
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post #4 of 20 Old 05-31-2015
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I took an 18" inch 2x4 and cut a Grove length wise that would allow the board to fit around the pinch weld.
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post #5 of 20 Old 06-01-2015
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If you jack up on the front subframe be sure to use a 6" or longer wood block or you will end up denting the metal.

If I just want to jack up one side I also use a wood block on the rails under the car just to the rear of the side mirror. You can then get both wheels off the ground.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Raspberry View Post
If you jack up on the front subframe be sure to use a 6" or longer wood block or you will end up denting the metal.

If I just want to jack up one side I also use a wood block on the rails under the car just to the rear of the side mirror. You can then get both wheels off the ground.
If I wanted to jack the rear first, or the rear only, would I jack from the center rear jack point safely? Wouldn't the front wheels roll? Even if I chocked the front wheels from the front, wouldnt they roll backwards?

The E-Brake only locks the back wheels.
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Originally Posted by solbert View Post
If I wanted to jack the rear first, or the rear only, would I jack from the center rear jack point safely? Wouldn't the front wheels roll? Even if I chocked the front wheels from the front, wouldnt they roll backwards?

The E-Brake only locks the back wheels.
Hopefully you are on a level surface. When jacking with a floor jack you want to make sure that either the car is moving (usually when jacking from the rear) or the jack is moving (usually from jacking from the front if the car is in gear or the ebrakes on). Otherwise the jack will pull off the surface you are jacking up on and can cause quite a bit of damage.

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Last edited by Red Raspberry; 06-05-2015 at 07:18 AM.
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Originally Posted by Red Raspberry View Post
When jacking with a floor jack you want to make sure that either the car is moving (usually when jacking from the rear) or the jack is moving (usually from jacking from the front if the car is in gear or the ebrakes on). .
Your saying that the car SHOULD MOVE, when I'm jacking the back up? Doesn't that mean that the car will move forward and tip the jack over? I have nothing to lock the front wheels, except 2 wheel chocks that can only block ONE direction. What if the car rolls the opposite way than the direction the wheel chocks are blocking?
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On a level surface it is ok for the car to move. Either car or the jack has to move as the jack pad goes through an arc when it rises.

When jacking the rear up the car will move towards the jack.

Do not place the jack at an angle it should be in a straight line with the car.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by inertiamonster View Post
Here are the jack points:



As for jacking up the rear for a sway bar install, I would highly recommend you drive the front onto ramps and then jack up the back, it'll give you more working room and it's safer.
I have a 2010 GenCoupe 3.8 Track and my underbelly is different from yours. I see the front crossbar you're using to jack but the rear is different on mine, especially as regards the dual exhaust system.



I have a long frame floor jack I use on the central lift points of my other 4 vehicles, then slide jackstands under the pinch weld side lift points for support. But AFAIK, the GenCoupe does not have any central jack points. And it sits so low, it's hard to crawl under and find a safe central point to use and line the floor jack up by myself.

I tried some old steel ramps I had from years ago, but the front air dam prevents using them. It hits well before the tires approach the ramp.

I've thought about buying a couple of 10 ft 2x12s or 2x10s and cutting them into 4 ft, 3 ft, 2 ft, and 1 ft section. Then stacking and securing them together for a make-shift ramp that would give me about 6 inches lift in the front, hopefully enough for an oil change.

Anyone tried that?
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post #11 of 20 Old 09-15-2017
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I realize its not a cost effective solution for everybody but I purchaced Quick Jacks specifically for my GenCoupe. But it really works well on my other vehicles ss well.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedlever View Post
I have a 2010 GenCoupe 3.8 Track and my underbelly is different from yours. I see the front crossbar you're using to jack but the rear is different on mine, especially as regards the dual exhaust system.
No it's not, that's an old picture of a BK1 3.8 with an aftermarket exhaust, nothing on the chassis changed from 2008-2016 as far as the subframes and jack points are concerned.

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post #13 of 20 Old 09-15-2017
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Originally Posted by speedlever View Post
I've thought about buying a couple of 10 ft 2x12s or 2x10s and cutting them into 4 ft, 3 ft, 2 ft, and 1 ft section. Then stacking and securing them together for a make-shift ramp that would give me about 6 inches lift in the front, hopefully enough for an oil change.
If you're not lowered you can use a 2x4 and a low profile jack to lift the entire side of the car using the frame rails, that's what I used to do. Now that I'm lowered I drive the car onto four pieces of 8x2 that I cut a angled edge into, that get's the car high enough to reach the front and rear subframes and I lift the entire front and then the rear. There's several ways to get the car up onto four jack stands.

I could get the car onto ramps at stock height but there's no chance now, I have to use a jack and stands for everything.

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Last edited by inertiamonster; 09-15-2017 at 03:15 PM.
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post #14 of 20 Old 09-16-2017
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The picture you posted actually hints at where you should put the jack. The frame has ghost marks towards the front. Thats the place to jack up the front.

The rear is quite easy, either side of the rear suspension. Heavy steel joints, the entire rear goes up equally from either side.

The jack stands are the only thing I use at the steel tab points. I use a slotted hockey puck to keep from bending them.

Here we go again !
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post #15 of 20 Old 09-17-2017
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Originally Posted by lvdukerider View Post
I realize its not a cost effective solution for everybody but I purchaced Quick Jacks specifically for my GenCoupe. But it really works well on my other vehicles ss well.
Ah, interesting. I assume you have the 5000 lb version? Do you have any issues getting it properly aligned so it doesn't damage anything when you lift?

But yeah, that's a bit expensive.

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Originally Posted by inertiamonster View Post
No it's not, that's an old picture of a BK1 3.8 with an aftermarket exhaust, nothing on the chassis changed from 2008-2016 as far as the subframes and jack points are concerned.
I see. I didn't realize that was an AM exhaust system. Thought it was a later model GenCoupe. The first step is to remove the splash guard so you can get to that front lift point.

Quote:
Originally Posted by inertiamonster View Post
If you're not lowered you can use a 2x4 and a low profile jack to lift the entire side of the car using the frame rails, that's what I used to do. Now that I'm lowered I drive the car onto four pieces of 8x2 that I cut a angled edge into, that get's the car high enough to reach the front and rear subframes and I lift the entire front and then the rear. There's several ways to get the car up onto four jack stands.

I could get the car onto ramps at stock height but there's no chance now, I have to use a jack and stands for everything.
Stock height. But my old ramps are simply too steep for the GenCoupe.

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Originally Posted by Gaijinn View Post
The picture you posted actually hints at where you should put the jack. The frame has ghost marks towards the front. Thats the place to jack up the front.

The rear is quite easy, either side of the rear suspension. Heavy steel joints, the entire rear goes up equally from either side.

The jack stands are the only thing I use at the steel tab points. I use a slotted hockey puck to keep from bending them.
Not sure what ghost marks are.

Right now I have a local shop that I use. They let me bring my own oil and filter and I pay them $15 to do the oil and filter change. That's actually hard to beat. But I'd still prefer to do it myself.

So it's safe to use either of the red circled lift points in the rear?
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I just jack up the rear on the bottom of the diff.

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Originally Posted by speedlever View Post
The first step is to remove the splash guard so you can get to that front lift point.
You don't have to, just put the jack directly behind the front middle cover bolt. I can't get the cover off first, no way to reach all of the bolts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by speedlever View Post
So it's safe to use either of the red circled lift points in the rear?
No, the yellow area:



You really don't want to lift it off-center, especially if the front of the car is already up on stands. Or you can jack it up from the diff as Red pointed out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Raspberry View Post
I just jack up the rear on the bottom of the diff.
This is another option, only issue is if you're lowered and/or don't have a low profile jack you can't always get the jack that far under the car.

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Last edited by inertiamonster; 09-17-2017 at 11:05 AM.
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post #18 of 20 Old 09-17-2017
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Actually, that area circled in yellow may not be bad to find. Just run the floor jack in until the saddle hits the rear diff and that should let the saddle lift from that yellow area without lifting from the rear diff, which I would prefer to avoid.

Yeah, I was concerned about getting to all the splash guard bolts while on the ground.
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That's exactly how I do it, press the jack against the back of the diff and lift on that spot.

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post #20 of 20 Old 09-17-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedlever View Post
Ah, interesting. I assume you have the 5000 lb version? Do you have any issues getting it properly aligned so it doesn't damage anything when you lift?

But yeah, that's a bit expensive.



I see. I didn't realize that was an AM exhaust system. Thought it was a later model GenCoupe. The first step is to remove the splash guard so you can get to that front lift point.



Stock height. But my old ramps are simply too steep for the GenCoupe.



Not sure what ghost marks are.

Right now I have a local shop that I use. They let me bring my own oil and filter and I pay them $15 to do the oil and filter change. That's actually hard to beat. But I'd still prefer to do it myself.

So it's safe to use either of the red circled lift points in the rear?
I just put each Quick Jack 5000 along the pinch weld using the flat rubber blocks provided, My pinch welds still look new and undamaged. That said you could proably just buy the rubber blocks and 4 floor jacks and acomplish the same thing, cheaper but without any dammage, it just wouldent lift the car as high. Quick Jacks lifts approximatly 2 feet.
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