Vibration at 65+ - Hyundai Genesis Forum
 
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Vibration at 65+

I know this has been reported many times before but it seems every case is different. I purchased the car used 2013 3.8 track AT with 93K. I have a vibration felt above 65 that stays constant above that speed. So far I have had my tires road forced balanced LF 6, LR 12,RF 6, RR 4 very slight bend. I had an alignment done and replaced the rear prop shaft coupler that only showed slight wear, the front looks new so I did not replace it.

What are the next steps I should take? I was planning to throw a used drive shaft with 30k in and change the rear diff fluid. What I don't want to do is throw parts at it and would rather have it diagnosed correctly if possible. I thought there are sensors that can be placed all over the car to isolate the cause of the vibration. What would a dealer charge for diagnosing or should I bring it to a private mechanic? I'm 2hrs north of NYC if there are any Genesis specialist around.
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Originally Posted by mow4cash View Post
I know this has been reported many times before but it seems every case is different. I purchased the car used 2013 3.8 track AT with 93K. I have a vibration felt above 65 that stays constant above that speed. So far I have had my tires road forced balanced LF 6, LR 12,RF 6, RR 4 very slight bend. I had an alignment done and replaced the rear prop shaft coupler that only showed slight wear, the front looks new so I did not replace it.

What are the next steps I should take? I was planning to throw a used drive shaft with 30k in and change the rear diff fluid. What I don't want to do is throw parts at it and would rather have it diagnosed correctly if possible. I thought there are sensors that can be placed all over the car to isolate the cause of the vibration. What would a dealer charge for diagnosing or should I bring it to a private mechanic? I'm 2hrs north of NYC if there are any Genesis specialist around.
get under the car and have the guibos checked. It's the rubber couplers used for the drive shaft instead of u-joints.

if they aren't cracked or overly gummy, then have the wheel hubs checked. It's difficult to check the hubs on this car, since they are sealed units, but because they are sealed units, they are really easy to change and don't have to deal with axle grease. With over 90k miles, I would change the hubs anyways, along witch checking rotors and pads.

The difficult part is just getting the brakes off the spindle (mainly the rear caliper brackets). The hubs are just held on why 4 bolts each.
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I replaced the rear coupler it was just starting to have minor cracks, front one looks good. Had the head mechanic of the dealership look at it. They can't find anything wrong and say the drive line feels fine. The only thing they did find was a slight bend in a wheel or two. I've had multiple other people say you won't feel a slight bend that small especially with good road force balance numbers. really disappointed but it looks like I will have no other option but to buy a set of wheels to see if it fixes the issue. Would moving wheel locations change the vibration as a test?I did buy a use driveshaft with 30k on it for $165 and was thinking of having it installed first to see if that fixes it.
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I replaced the rear coupler it was just starting to have minor cracks, front one looks good. Had the head mechanic of the dealership look at it. They can't find anything wrong and say the drive line feels fine. The only thing they did find was a slight bend in a wheel or two. I've had multiple other people say you won't feel a slight bend that small especially with good road force balance numbers. really disappointed but it looks like I will have no other option but to buy a set of wheels to see if it fixes the issue. Would moving wheel locations change the vibration as a test?I did buy a use driveshaft with 30k on it for $165 and was thinking of having it installed first to see if that fixes it.
If the mechanic said that it's then probably is. The only other thing to check in the drive shaft is the the center bearing, which would be hard to miss to check if the guibos were replaced.

I wouldn't go out and buy new wheels just yet. Ask to see they have any junk wheels to throw on, and drive it to see if there is any change.

If it's not the wheels then it could be the wheels bearings as I said before. Fronts only took me about 15 minutes to change, once the rotors were off. Rears are probably going to take a few minutes more, since the lower caliper bracket bolt is in a stupid location. The normal wiggle method of checking wheel bearings on this car, doesn't work.
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I asked them about wheels they could try and they don't have anything. The driveshaft carrier bearing is smooth. Wheel bearings are $600 for all 4. I don't any wheel bearing symptoms turning. I found some remanufactured oem wheels for around $250 a piece shipped. I'm going to have them tell me tomorrow what wheels are out of spec.
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I asked them about wheels they could try and they don't have anything. The driveshaft carrier bearing is smooth. Wheel bearings are $600 for all 4. I don't any wheel bearing symptoms turning. I found some remanufactured oem wheels for around $250 a piece shipped. I'm going to have them tell me tomorrow what wheels are out of spec.
I forgot to add if the wheels for testing are all the same, the car will drive, but you will need to turn off traction control, because the gen is programmed to used a staggered wheel setup otherwise traction control will want to step in anywhere over 50 mph.
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Don't know if it's your issue but I had a high speed rear end vibration from when the car was new. During the six years I had it, it had different rims,several different tires, several different brands of brake pads all around, two sets of front brake rotors and always stayed exactly the same. I figured it was the driveshaft issue but it finally went away completely after I changed the rear brake rotors. 2010 2.0T
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I forgot to add if the wheels for testing are all the same, the car will drive, but you will need to turn off traction control, because the gen is programmed to used a staggered wheel setup otherwise traction control will want to step in anywhere over 50 mph.
The wheels are marked f and r.

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Don't know if it's your issue but I had a high speed rear end vibration from when the car was new. During the six years I had it, it had different rims,several different tires, several different brands of brake pads all around, two sets of front brake rotors and always stayed exactly the same. I figured it was the driveshaft issue but it finally went away completely after I changed the rear brake rotors. 2010 2.0T
Interesting, any idea why that would have caused it. Sticking e brake? I'll have to look into it. I kinda feel like the brakes stick a little for the first mile of driving after sitting overnight.
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Had a wheel shop straighten 3 of the wheels that were slightly out and do a regular balance. The regular balancer was showing them up to 2oz out of balance after the RF balance was done. It did not fix my vibration but the front end feels a little tighter. Not sure what the dealer will say when I tell them the vibration is still there after I had the wheels done. I'm having a used driveshaft swapped tomorrow to see if that changes anything.
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if the vibration is in the rear, you'll feel it more in the seat, chassis.

If it's in the front, you'll feel it more through the steering wheel.
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Great news!!! I bought a used driveshaft with 30k on it. Installed it and the vibration is gone. I'm so happy it's fixed. All the shops thought I was crazy. For the record this vibration is felt in the seat, through the chassis and more towards the rear. It starts around 65mph and is a little less noticeable at that speed if you are on the throttle. It would get slightly worse letting off the gas. The vibration is constant above 65mph. There were no signs that the drive shaft was damaged.

Should I ask to get my $160 diagnostic charge back from the dealer since they said the driveshaft was fine?
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Originally Posted by mow4cash View Post
Great news!!! I bought a used driveshaft with 30k on it. Installed it and the vibration is gone. I'm so happy it's fixed. All the shops thought I was crazy. For the record this vibration is felt in the seat, through the chassis and more towards the rear. It starts around 65mph and is a little less noticeable at that speed if you are on the throttle. It would get slightly worse letting off the gas. The vibration is constant above 65mph. There were no signs that the drive shaft was damaged.

Should I ask to get my $160 diagnostic charge back from the dealer since they said the driveshaft was fine?
I would try, but doubt you will get it.
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