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Stock alternator question

Anybody know the amp rating of the stock alternator?

I can't seem to find the info.

Trying to see of the 2.0t sonata, or genesis sedan alternator is a viable upgrade.
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Originally Posted by AKGC View Post
Anybody know the amp rating of the stock alternator?

I can't seem to find the info.

Trying to see of the 2.0t sonata, or genesis sedan alternator is a viable upgrade.

I'll ask my H guy. What year is your Gen


I will have an answer for you tomm. H e has to look up parts nymbers and schematics, blah blah.

Here we go again !

Last edited by Gaijinn; 4 Weeks Ago at 05:21 PM.
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i'll ask my h guy. What year is your gen


i will have an answer for you tomm. H e has to look up parts nymbers and schematics, blah blah.
2010
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OK here are the results:

So Raz has given you the spec for what you have. 2.0 110 amps.


I framed my question to My H dude if a 2013 and up 3.8 could substitute a 3.8 alternator from a Genesis sedan 3.8.


Ratings:

Gencoupe 3.8 130 amps.

Genesis sedan 3.8 150 amps

Both alternators have the same bolt pattern to the block.

****The difference is in the connector pins. The alternator itself has the female side cast in to the housing.
Gencoupes have an oblong/oval-ish connector with 3 pins. Wire side is male from harness

Genesis sedans have a squarish cast 4 pin female connector. Wire side is male 4 pin.


He also said it would/could cause major isssues with the CANBUS system. Car and sensors are programmed to see certain voltage/amp ranges.
That also doesnt take into account changing/mating the harness inputs.

He gets it, but said dont do it.

Since the Sonata turbo is an I4, it would probably be more suited, but you will still run into the same issues I believe.

Here we go again !

Last edited by Gaijinn; 3 Weeks Ago at 10:38 AM.
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Originally Posted by Gaijinn View Post
OK here are the results:

So Raz has given you the spec for what you have. 2.0 110 amps.


I framed my question to My H dude if a 2013 and up 3.8 could substitute a 3.8 alternator from a Genesis sedan 3.8.


Ratings:

Gencoupe 3.8 130 amps.

Genesis sedan 3.8 150 amps

Both alternators have the same bolt pattern to the block.

****The difference is in the connector pins. The alternator itself has the female side cast in to the housing.
Gencoupes have an oblong/oval-ish connector with 3 pins. Wire side is male from harness

Genesis sedans have a squarish cast 4 pin female connector. Wire side is male 4 pin.


He also said it would/could cause major isssues with the CANBUS system. Car and sensors are programmed to see certain voltage/amp ranges.
That also doesnt take into account changing/mating the harness inputs.

He gets it, but said dont do it.

Since the Sonata turbo is an I4, it would probably be more suited, but you will still run into the same issues I believe.
I noticed that when I was looking a reference photos on ebay.

Guess I'll just borrow some time and someone's lathe and broach some splines to make an slightly undersized pulley.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaijinn View Post

He also said it would/could cause major isssues with the CANBUS system. Car and sensors are programmed to see certain voltage/amp ranges.
That also doesnt take into account changing/mating the harness inputs.

He gets it, but said dont do it.

Since the Sonata turbo is an I4, it would probably be more suited, but you will still run into the same issues I believe.
I am not sure if you know this. A higher output alternator does not provide that higher out put to electronics unless demanded. If you have a sound system that uses 300A and your alternator is 400A then your system will be requesting 300A plus whatever other current the electronics need.

Remember AKGC, the grounding in these car's suck, adding a larger ground remediates lots of power issues that may arise. You can also see how much current your current system is trying to pull and go from there.

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I am not sure if you know this. A higher output alternator does not provide that higher out put to electronics unless demanded. If you have a sound system that uses 300A and your alternator is 400A then your system will be requesting 300A plus whatever other current the electronics need.

Remember AKGC, the grounding in these car's suck, adding a larger ground remediates lots of power issues that may arise. You can also see how much current your current system is trying to pull and go from there.
I know how the voltage regulator and the rectifier works.
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I know how the voltage regulator and the rectifier works.
The comment was reserved for Gaijin with the quote.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by GenCoupeBoricua View Post
I am not sure if you know this. A higher output alternator does not provide that higher out put to electronics unless demanded. If you have a sound system that uses 300A and your alternator is 400A then your system will be requesting 300A plus whatever other current the electronics need.

Remember AKGC, the grounding in these car's suck, adding a larger ground remediates lots of power issues that may arise. You can also see how much current your current system is trying to pull and go from there.

Youre right,.. I don't know this. My former dealer matser tech of 20 years who owns and runs his own business is the one who knows this.

What a goof......... He said don't do it. I trust him. He says the increased amps are oitside the cars parameters, I think he knows what he's talikn about.
Feel free to try it,....yuk yuk.

Here we go again !
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Youre right,.. I don't know this. My former dealer matser tech of 20 years who owns and runs his own business is the one who knows this.

What a goof......... He said don't do it. I trust him. He says the increased amps are oitside the cars parameters, I think he knows what he's talikn about.
Feel free to try it,....yuk yuk.
A "pulley kit" does the same thing (And I have voiced in the past to not use the crank pulley because of balancing purposes, but what I would be doing is just changing the alternator pulley)

An alternator produces AC current because it's more efficient. If it produced DC current, it would actually be called a generator (not joking).

The AC current passes through a rectifier which halves or flips the AC current to DC (basically cuts off the wave that passes below zero voltage, or flips the wave below zero to "reverse polarity" to have it the same polarity as above zero) then passes a voltage regulator to smooth out the voltage spikes and waveform.

I've already replaced my grounds with 8 gauge high strand count silicone insulated wire to the body, block, intake manifold and head, when I changed out my battery last fall.

and it's not like I'm making the pulley a cm smaller, just a few millimeters.
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A "pulley kit" does the same thing (And I have voiced in the past to not use the crank pulley because of balancing purposes, but what I would be doing is just changing the alternator pulley)

An alternator produces AC current because it's more efficient. If it produced DC current, it would actually be called a generator (not joking).

The AC current passes through a rectifier which halves or flips the AC current to DC (basically cuts off the wave that passes below zero voltage, or flips the wave below zero to "reverse polarity" to have it the same polarity as above zero) then passes a voltage regulator to smooth out the voltage spikes and waveform.

I've already replaced my grounds with 8 gauge high strand count silicone insulated wire to the body, block, intake manifold and head, when I changed out my battery last fall.

and it's not like I'm making the pulley a cm smaller, just a few millimeters.
Nice, let us know how well that works in your application. Curious, what extra draw do you have that needs more current?
I know some other platforms modify their pulley heavily to get better idle current supply.

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