Transmission Fluid and Rear Differential Fluid Change - Hyundai Genesis Forum
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post #1 of 25 Old 12-29-2013 Thread Starter
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Transmission Fluid and Rear Differential Fluid Change

Hey Everyone,

I just changed both my manual trans oil and differential oil over to Redline MT-85 and Redline 75W-90, respectively. I tried to find directions as to how to do the changes, but couldn't find anything that showed exactly what you needed to do step by step. So... here you go:

Transmission Fluid Change:

1. Jack up car and place on 4 jack stands, so the vehicle is level. Obviously, the higher you can jack the car, the easier it is to work. I could only go up to about 11" and that was enough to get leverage on the drain and filler plugs.

2. Use a 15/16" socket/ wrench to loosen the drain plug located on the bottom of the differential and ensure drain pan is underneath.



3. Unscrew the drain plug completely and allow the fluid to drain completely. At this point you can also loosen and remove the fill plug (located on driver's side of differential)



4. Once drained, clean off the magnet, replace the crush washer on the drain plug and reinstall the plug into the bottom of the differential. Then take a fluid/ oil pump and place the "exit" tube from the pump and place in the filler hole.

5. Pump fluid into the differential until it begins to flow out of the filler hole. It takes about 1.4 quarts.

6. Reinstall filler plug


Transmission Fluid Change (car already on jack stands)

1. Loosen drain plug with 15/16" socket and ensure drain pan is underneath. You will need to use a socket, as the plug has a guard around it.



2. Drain all oil and loosen filler plug with 17mm socket or wrench

3. Reinstall plug with new crush washer (after cleaning off the magnet)

4. Fill with oil until it drains out of the filler hole (about 2.3 quarts)



Thats it- that simple.
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post #2 of 25 Old 12-29-2013
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Thanks bro! Looking to this next few days

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What mileage are you at astrick

2012 Red premium 2.0t M/t
K&N Typhoon intake
TWN Big R type 600 gram shifter knob
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Originally Posted by Jimmy C View Post
What mileage are you at astrick
I'm at 62K. I've been meaning to change over as my transmission was a little notchy, but hadn't had a chance for the past couple of months. I figured I might as well change over the differential oil at the same time, since I was already ordering from redline and the car would be up on jacks.
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post #5 of 25 Old 12-30-2013
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All good ,nice write up I was getting bored and wanting to do this .I'm at only 20kms,just to get rid of break in crud.

2012 Red premium 2.0t M/t
K&N Typhoon intake
TWN Big R type 600 gram shifter knob
Quaife LSD
SFR stage 1 canned
Synapse BOV
Uniq performance rigid collar kit
Solo Performance HI-flow cat down pipe + cat back
Saikou Michi catch cans
Uniq Performance Strut Bar
BBM Spoiler
ATQ Short shifter + bushings
13+Flywheel , Veleo HD cutch and throw out bearing , APR FW bolts , SS braided hose
Stop tech SS brake lines
Uniq Performance FMIC
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post #6 of 25 Old 12-30-2013
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did you notice a difference? The dealer was unwilling to change it out for me saying it has a lifetime use. I am not sure if I need it yet..
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post #7 of 25 Old 12-30-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmy C View Post
All good ,nice write up I was getting bored and wanting to do this .I'm at only 20kms,just to get rid of break in crud.
you wanna change the transmission fluid ASAP, hyundai fluid, even though it isn't bad, isn't good.

Diaqueen so far is the only oil thats been used multiple times to have good results and no bad results

I am not a list of mods but what i know and share:
https://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t/94778-fuel-system-what-you-need-know.html
https://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t/86146-wastegate-101-a.html
https://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t/91199-compressor-maps-how-read-them.html

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post #8 of 25 Old 01-02-2014 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by solarius View Post
did you notice a difference? The dealer was unwilling to change it out for me saying it has a lifetime use. I am not sure if I need it yet..
Yea, I still have a few issues shifting in and out of 1st/ 2nd when it is below freezing temps, but once it warms up even a little, it feels much better than it did before the change.
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post #9 of 25 Old 01-02-2014
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I have not had any problems with gear box shifting ,even today at -25 C with what ever Hyundai has in it .

2012 Red premium 2.0t M/t
K&N Typhoon intake
TWN Big R type 600 gram shifter knob
Quaife LSD
SFR stage 1 canned
Synapse BOV
Uniq performance rigid collar kit
Solo Performance HI-flow cat down pipe + cat back
Saikou Michi catch cans
Uniq Performance Strut Bar
BBM Spoiler
ATQ Short shifter + bushings
13+Flywheel , Veleo HD cutch and throw out bearing , APR FW bolts , SS braided hose
Stop tech SS brake lines
Uniq Performance FMIC
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post #10 of 25 Old 01-02-2014 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jimmy C View Post
I have not had any problems with gear box shifting ,even today at -25 C with what ever Hyundai has in it .
I have a 2010 3.8, so it may be different in the 2012 2.0's...glad you don't have the same issues regardless
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post #11 of 25 Old 01-02-2014
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Originally Posted by Jimmy C View Post
I have not had any problems with gear box shifting ,even today at -25 C with what ever Hyundai has in it .
the problem with the trans isn't directly related to the trans fluid, the ger box itself, it's the assembly prosses. Because of cheap assembly by un trained works, you have inconsistency in the transmission. Some come out 100% perfect, others come out like crap.

I am not a list of mods but what i know and share:
https://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t/94778-fuel-system-what-you-need-know.html
https://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t/86146-wastegate-101-a.html
https://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t/91199-compressor-maps-how-read-them.html

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I know you like making threads about these things that have been covered a ton, but this time, no.
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post #12 of 25 Old 02-08-2015
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This DIY helped me alot thanks!!
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post #13 of 25 Old 05-17-2015
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So the fill plug on mine is IMPOSSIBLE to get off....I mean its like the incredible hulk put it on. Any ideas on how to get it off?
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post #14 of 25 Old 05-18-2015
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Use a wrench, put the closed end on the bolt, hold it in place about the middle and use a rubber hammer on the open end. Just take a few whacks and you should be able to hammer it loose.
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post #15 of 25 Old 05-18-2015
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lol I tried that along with cranking on it with a large ratchet, heating it with a torch and several other things....eventually I rounded the bolt head from cranking on it so much. I eventually bought a bolt extractor socket attachments and removed my exhaust pipe so i could get my impact in line with it. The impact used with the extractors got it out......crazy that the bolts to separate my transmission came off easier that that. In fact out of all the bolts I have removed from my car that was the toughest one to remove.
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post #16 of 25 Old 05-29-2015
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Couple questions I'm mechanically inclined on dirtbikes not so much cars would this be easy for me to do I've only done an oil change previously lol also what's the torque on the bolts 7lbs? A local shop said they'd do it for $120 should I just save my money and DIY?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bemedicine View Post
Couple questions I'm mechanically inclined on dirtbikes not so much cars would this be easy for me to do I've only done an oil change previously lol also what's the torque on the bolts 7lbs? A local shop said they'd do it for $120 should I just save my money and DIY?
I was pretty unsure of doing this by myself but I went ahead and did it 2 weeks ago and it was no problem at all! Knowing what I know now, I would never ever recommend anyone to pay $120 to have someone do this for you(Unless you are really, really, really bad with your hands). Just make sure your car is secure on the jackstands before starting to work underneath it.

If you've had the pleasure of jacking your car-up atleast once already this should be no problem as long as you know where to locate the front jack point(it is hidden by a plastic shield and I had to remove to locate it the first time).

Before doing this I recommend you get all the proper gaskets from your local hyundai parts shop in case you plan on flushing(the gaskets can be reused but if you want a proper seal get it in case).

In short, this was a pretty easy job. Just make sure you have the following:
  • Sockets listed above.
  • Torque wrench if you want exact tightening measure
  • Jack
  • Jackstands
  • Fluid Pump(local auto store will have this)
  • Oil drain pan
  • New Gaskets from your local dealer
  • Your new tranny + diff fluid (Be sure to get double the quantity if you plan on doing a flush)
  • (anything else I may have forgot?)

Hope this helps. Good Luck!
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I just went through this process yesterday on my 2013. I am at 42,000 miles, and I went with redline synthetic fluids for mine,
MT85 for the trans, and 75W90 gear oil for the differential. I ordered 3 quarts of trans fluid, and 2 quarts of gear oil. This was an adequate amount of fluid to complete both changes in full. I immediately noticed better / smoother shifting in the transmission.

NOTE: While you have it up on stands, this is a good time to check the bolts for tightness on the rear diff mount, chassis bolts, check condition of exhaust, inspect the boots on the rear axle shafts. check driveshaft for problems, check lower ball joints on the front etc....


While I had it up on stands, I also changed the engine oil and filter. Also installed a new cabin air filter as well.

Last weekend I did the brake fluid flush and fill, and new brake pads on the front.

Next up on the list will be engine coolant..........
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post #19 of 25 Old 06-07-2015
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Garage

FWIW you can change the trans fluid by just jacking up the front. Taking the plugs out and then lower in the car. Once drained you can jack it up again, put in the drain plug then lower and fill from the top with a hose and a funnel. Then put in the fill plug from top.

For the diff you can do the same procedure. There is a rubber plug in the trunk with some wires going through it on the left side of the spare tire well. This can be popped out and a hose ran down it into the diff fill hole too .

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Bolt torques

I've had my 2014 2.0T for almost 2 years now, and of late the shifting has become a little more sticky in 2nd gear particularly, as well as more notchy upshifting into 2nd and 3rd gears. Hopefully I'll see improvement on this by swapping the fluids to the Redline oils.

Seems like the only piece of information still missing in this guide are the torque values to be used:

Manual Transmission (per the shop manual):
Drain Plug - 43.4 - 57.8 lb-ft
Filler Plug - 43.4 - 57.8 lb-ft

Differential:
Drain Plug - ??
Filler Plug - ??

I would assume that the torques for the differential drain and filler plugs would be the same so long as the bolt sizes are the same. I checked the shop manual for the 2.0T (2014) for even just changing the differential fluid, and this information seems to be completely missing.
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