Disclaimer: As always, I hold no responsibility for damage to your vehicle or injury to your person while attempting this modification.
I give this a 2 out of 5 difficulty with the only hard part being having enough balls to splice into your OEM wiring harness. The ability to properly solder & heat shrink wiring is highly recommended.
Tools needed: Solder iron, roll of solder, electrical tape, knife, heat shrink, wire strippers, 10mm socket & ratchet driver (cordless impact), phillips screw driver along with a cordless if available, 10mm & 12mm wrenches.
Additional parts needed: 1000ohm capacitor, 3 electrical connectors with an eye (loop) on the end & a switch that activates when depressed (R-Spec models only).
We will start by prepping our parts beginning with the N2MB little blue box. When mounting it look for a location that will be easily accessable for when you want to engage the device, yet is not in the way that it might be accidentally activated.
I chose my drivers side kick panel for the mounting location of my WOT box & removed it by prying off the hood release handle, then pulling the weatherstrip back, followed by popping off the driver's door entrance guard. I was then able to pop out cleanly.
As you can see, I installed it near the top of the kick panel so that it wouldn't be in danger of being hit by accident too easily. Here is a pick of it installed with the kick panel back in place.
Next we want to prepare the pin switch we aquired. We will start by extending the positive wire that came too short from the manufacturer of the switch & install a ground wire using one of the electrical connectors with the loop on the end that we will secure using our crimping wire stripper pliers.
Strip the both wires coming from the switch. Now do the same with two wires you gathered up from your junk wiring box. If you don't have a junk wiring box, go purchase a spool of red & a spool of black 16 gauge wire so that you will have it for this mod & also for future use.
Now you will need to slide a piece of heat shrink properly fitted over one of the wires to be connected on the positive & ground. You can then splice the wires together by pushing the ends into each other so that the copper wires interlace with one another on each piece of wire. You will then need to install the 1000ohm resister inline in the ground wire using solder & heat shrink. The green wire from the WOT box will attach to the ground wire from the switch on the section of wire between the resister and switch itself. For the switch, your going to have power going to one side, then the ground (with the 1000 ohm resistor) on the other. The green wire will go between where you put the resistor and the switch itself. The black wire from the WOT box can be grounded with the ground wire coming from the switch using a self tapping screw into the metal beneath the kick panel. Be sure to lightly scuff the area that the screw will going into for better grounding characteristics.
Now heat up your solder iron. Once the solder iron is warm, hold it against the interlaced wires getting them hot & apply the solder after uncoiling it from its spool. Once you have a nice even covering of solder & it has cooled, slide the heat shrink over the soldered area & all visible copper wiring. Now you will need a small torch or can use a lighter to heat up the heat shrink to where it adheres to the wiring all the way around with no air pockets. Your final product should look like this.
Now we can install the switch. If you look underneath the driver's side of the dash, you will see a plastic bracket there that is for a cruise control switch & if you have anything besides the R-Spec, you already have cruise, thus will not have to purchase the switch.
Now the red power wire from the switch is going to tap into the wiring harness behind the driver's kick panel into the red hot wire I have stripped in the pic above. Since we are not cutting the OEM red wire & just tapping into it, we need to use strippers better suited to the task, then wrap with electrical tape securely.
Time for our to tap into the accelerator pedal wiring. First remove the accelerator pedal assembly by popping out the plug covering the bolt with a small flat head screw driver or mechanics pick. Then use your ratchet & 10mm socket to remove the bolt. The pedal should come free now, but you will have to unplug the connector going into the bottom of the accelerator pedal sensor.
Now you can tap into the pink wire using the blue wire from the WOT box by the same method you did for the red wire in the kick panel wrapping it with your electrical tape when done.
Now we are going to head under the hood. So you will need to route the yellow wire & the red/black wire through the grommet on the drivers floor board where the hood release cable protrudes.
We will start with the yellow wire that goes to the red wire on the fuel rail prior to any of the injectors. Once again we are going to use the splice method with electrical tape for this tap. Now you can go back & install the wire loom around the yellow wire all the way back to the firewall where the wires came into the engine compartment.
Now we will move over to the passenger's side fuse block junction box to tap into the coil wire. Here you will first need to unplug & remove the connectors.
Then take the two 10mm nuts off holding the junction block in place. Flip the fuse block over & remove the bottom cover carefully using a prying device such as a flat head screw driver.
With the cover off, locate the green wire I've indicated in the pic with the 2 mechanics picks. It is thicker than most of the rest of the wires & you will be able to move it back & forth seeing the other side move as you pull/push.
Pull a majority of the wire to one side & cut it in half. Once severed, strip both ends of the green wire you just cut.. Now you will take your red/black wire combo (like speaker wire) & splice the red wire into the green OEM wire on the buss (fuse) side of the fuse block using the soldering method followed by heat shrink. Do the same thing with the black wire using the other green wire from the junction block. Don't forget to slide a piece of hink shrink over the end of the red & the black WOT box wires. The final product should look like this.
Now put the cover back on the bottom of the fuse block, flip it back over & mount back in place on the shock tower using the two nuts you removed earlier. Now you can go back & install the wire loom around the black/red wire all the way back to the firewall where the wires came into the engine compartment.
Note: I have not tested this on my car as it is still down waiting on parts, so I will update soon when she is back up & running posting a video of this in action.