Ok so finally got them installed. Overall took about 5 hours with 2 people but to be fair I had recently hurt my back and was slow to get around under the car, plus I didn't really know how the mounts were supposed to be removed so we spent a decent amount of time figuring out what needed to be removed. Also I want to note that the way I did this may not be the best or most effective way but it worked for me, again do at your own risk.
First I would start by removing the intake, I had an R2C intake and for me it got in the way when I started jacking up the motor.
Once you have the intake off we can remove the top nuts on the motor mounts, for this I had bought some tools to help me reach them, without these tools you may need to remove the heat shields on the headers to reach these nuts. Below I have shown what I used to remove them. Instead of the ratchet I had to use a breaker bar to break them loose. But in all the whole setup consisted of a 1/2 breaker bar, 14" extension, 1/2" to 3/8" adapter, 3/8" universal joint, and a 17mm torque wrench adapter. The torque wrench adapter is something I've never heard of but it greatly aided me in reaching the nuts under the headers.
Once those are off you need to get under the car and loosen the bottom nuts on the mounts. Do do this I had to loosen the power steering rack. What I found that worked good is since the drivers side has longer bolts than the passenger side, fully take out one of the drivers side bolts and swap it out with one of the passenger side bolts. This way you can lower the rack down farther without it hanging by the hoses. I had mine hanging on the last couple threads on the two long bolts from the drivers side, this was enough clearance for me to get my electric impact in using a 19mm socket on a universal joint and then a 6" extension.
Once you get those off you need to jack up the engine. Be very careful jacking up the engine, I jacked mine up by the bell housing with a piece of wood between the jack and the bell housing. You can only jack the engine up so far before the top of the transmission hits the tunnel. Once you have the engine jacked up as far as it will go you can start removing the motor mounts. I started with the passenger side since it is much easier to remove. If you can't seem to get enough clearance to remove the mount studs from the holes you may need to lower the subframe slightly, I had no real problems on this side with that. Once you get it free in the engine bay it needs to go out the bottom near the exhaust. Go back under the car and remove the bracket that spans between the headers and the engine block. Once you do that you can pull the mount out through that hole and put in the new one. (shown below where you can see the blue shirt of my helper under the car)
Now for the passenger side mount...this one is a bit more difficult. Just to remove the studs for the mounting spots on the engine I had to lower subframe slightly to have enough clearance. To do this locate the four subframe bolts and slowly unscrew them so that the whole subframe lowers down without binding. Be very careful to not undo the bolts completely or the whole subframe may fall. Once you get the mount loose in the engine bay it has to come down by the exhaust similar to the passenger side. To make it fit however you have to disconnect the steering column shaft from the steering rack. Push back the rubber cover and undo the one bolt clamping the shafts together. I then had to use a small pry bar to lift up on the upper portion to pull the splined shafts apart. Be careful not to spin the shafts or turn the wheels/steering wheel once the shafts are separated, I did and I need to go fix it because my steering wheel is no longer straight. After that you need to disconnect the sway bar mounting bolts by undoing the 4 bolts on the bottom and swinging it out of the way. Note: you may need to further lower the subframe to get the mount out.
Once you get that out put the new one back in the same way. Reverse installation making sure not to bolt up the power steering before tightening the lower mount bolts and also make sure when tightening the subframe bolts that the motor mount studs line up with the holes and that the small pins on the mounts are in the holes in the subframe.
Overall the mounts make the car feel much more solid. Different noises and play I previously felt in the drivetrain that I had blamed the DMF for are gone. Downshifts feel much better and the engine overall feels much more responsive. 2nd gear is still a little harder to get into than the rest of the gears but shifting as a whole feels more planted. Overall there doesn't seem to be much added noise, maybe a hint more vibration felt in the seat and the steering wheel but it's not a bad vibration, it feels well dampened. I also have a transmission mount, engine leash, all the shifter linkage bushings from ATQ and a cnt v3 cat back and test pipes so the noise my be more noticeable on a stock/quieter vehicle. Overall I would recommend these, and while I cant say definitively, I would almost recommend filling them with 80a poly if you want even that much more performance since these 60a filled hardly changed the NVH at all.